Sealed: 18" TC Sounds LMS 5400 vs. Pro 5100 - Page 7 - AVS Forum
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post #181 of 405 Old 03-23-2011, 05:28 PM
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awww man, I know the feeling, that sucks!!!!

Blasting brown notes for 10 years and counting!

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post #182 of 405 Old 03-23-2011, 07:16 PM - Thread Starter
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Bummer dude!

That's the kind of crap that happens to me regularly.

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post #183 of 405 Old 03-23-2011, 07:18 PM
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Don't know what that's like at all. Surprised it happened with one of those drivers.
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post #184 of 405 Old 03-23-2011, 08:18 PM
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I'm sure even TC sounds will suffer from "china syndrome" once in a while.

Blasting brown notes for 10 years and counting!

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post #185 of 405 Old 03-23-2011, 08:28 PM
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I haven't mentioned it at all but my Funky waves top assembly was out of spec as well, I had to send mine back for replacement as well. Inside of the former was rubbing on the motor. Got the new top today and all is well.

I'm very happy once again. But it does happen. Man made products are not always perfect. Im just glad I didn't have send the whole 80lbs back. PE, thilo, kyle all took good care of me. Thanks again.
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post #186 of 405 Old 03-23-2011, 09:06 PM
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The only issue I saw on my 5400s were that the taps for the bolts weren't very good, and the bolts could have been longer. I discussed that with Kyle, so hopefully that issue doesn't hit anyone else. I had 3 bolts out of 64 strip out really easily. I ran to sears hardware and got longer replacements which threaded in no problem. All of the drivers lined up well and there was no noise or rubbing.

Different motors on the 5400s though, so who knows.
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post #187 of 405 Old 03-24-2011, 04:05 AM
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Hello all, I am new to this forum as far as being a member, but I have been an audio freak/enthusiast forever (car, home theater, pretty much wherever I can mount a speaker). I have been following this interesting thread and decided that I must sign up to add my input. First of all, I would like to say that I am glad to meet all of you (I actually have spoke with Kyle on the TC Sounds forum before). I happen to have a pair of Aura 1808 18"s that I recently put the TC Sounds 5100 baskets on. I started each driver off in around a 12 cubic feet sealed enclosure (I know, I know, a little large right) with a Mackie 2600 running each at 4 ohms mono. That's a true 2600 watts to each driver all day long (the two Mackie amps are on a dedicated 30 amp circuit and then the rest of my system is on another 30 amp circuit, so no lack of juice). I was actually extremely impressed and somewhat surprised with the sound quality and SPL in my relatively small dedicated theater room (1015 cubic feet) with just sealed enclosures. I then added two VMP 18" passive radiators to each enclosure and the results are stunning. To put it bluntly, all of my neighbors either hate me or are just jealous. These things are downright scary during movies and are still suweet on music. I think something to consider with the 5100s and their upper frequency extension and efficiency is the ultra-smooth integration with the highs. Just to give some background info, I was running all M&K higher-end speakers (MPS 2510s and MPS 2525s) off of a Cinepro 3K6 amp, but I recently sold them all and switched to all pro audio speakers and amps (JBL AC28/26s across the front and JBL 8340As across the sides and back) running off QSC GX5s. With both sets of highs, these subs have integrated perfectly and have been simply breathtaking at sound quality and quantity. The bottom line here is DO NOT be discouraged by the numbers and ratings too much. The 5100s may only be rated at 1000 watts, but I have been running them on 2600 real watts for a while now and they straight up kick you in the chest and rattle the whole damn house and foundation. I have neighbors two doors down complaining that they are too loud. Also, they NEVER have a problem with over excursion, even in these supposedly too big enclosures with supposedly too much power. The ONLY problems I have are pissed off neighbors, that **** in my room sometimes sounds like it's falling apart, and that the insane bass sometimes actually invokes the fight-or-flight feelings where you want to get up and run for your life.

Just my two cents. :-)
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post #188 of 405 Old 03-24-2011, 04:22 AM
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This is before adding passive radiators and changing out my front and surround speakers. I will add more later . . .
LL
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post #189 of 405 Old 03-24-2011, 04:29 AM
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Welcome to the madness,

Nice to see your just like the rest of the other bass nutz here including me.

I really wish someone around here had those subs to have a listen. But no one around here has them
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post #190 of 405 Old 03-24-2011, 05:09 AM - Thread Starter
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Welcome HIFIJIM70!

Nice to have you aboard.

Thanks for the testimony regarding the 5100 as well.

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post #191 of 405 Old 03-24-2011, 06:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by notnyt View Post

The only issue I saw on my 5400s were that the taps for the bolts weren't very good, and the bolts could have been longer. I discussed that with Kyle, so hopefully that issue doesn't hit anyone else. I had 3 bolts out of 64 strip out really easily. I ran to sears hardware and got longer replacements which threaded in no problem. All of the drivers lined up well and there was no noise or rubbing.

Different motors on the 5400s though, so who knows.

+1. I had the same experience with the 2 I just got. If buying 5400's I would go ahead and get standard black 3/4", 1/4x20's from a hardware store. The 5/8's chrome ones that ship with the drivers are a little short and the threads don't seem to be cut as deep. I didn't have any trouble with the 4 LMSR-12's though.
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post #192 of 405 Old 03-24-2011, 07:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricci View Post

+1. I had the same experience with the 2 I just got. If buying 5400's I would go ahead and get standard black 3/4", 1/4x20's from a hardware store. The 5/8's chrome ones that ship with the drivers are a little short and the threads don't seem to be cut as deep. I didn't have any trouble with the 4 LMSR-12's though.


The LMS-R 12's ship with separate motors and baskets ?

I assume the 15's do as well then.... huh didn't know that...
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post #193 of 405 Old 03-24-2011, 07:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Warpdrv View Post

The LMS-R 12's ship with separate motors and baskets ?

I assume the 15's do as well then.... huh didn't know that...

I think it is everything but the Epic's
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post #194 of 405 Old 03-24-2011, 03:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricci View Post
+1. I had the same experience with the 2 I just got. If buying 5400's I would go ahead and get standard black 3/4", 1/4x20's from a hardware store. The 5/8's chrome ones that ship with the drivers are a little short and the threads don't seem to be cut as deep. I didn't have any trouble with the 4 LMSR-12's though.
I actually used 7/8 for the extra bit of grab. They fit without going to deep still
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post #195 of 405 Old 03-25-2011, 01:50 PM
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Hi, I have been following this thread and i joined so i could share some info about the pro 5100 subwoofer. I ordered two 5100 subwoofers from parts express and received them yesterday and when i opened the boxes to inspect the drivers and motors i found one motor that had one of the neo magnets stuck to the pole piece. I had to ship one subwoofer back to P.E. for waranty but i still have one to play with for now. I hope Tc sounds doesent get hit too hard with the "china Syndrome" because i realy like their subwoofers. I planned to build the boxes this weekend but after reading through some of the recent posts i may have to look into the passive radiator design a little more before i make a decision.
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post #196 of 405 Old 03-25-2011, 02:53 PM - Thread Starter
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Bummer on the one bad driver!

I think if I were building something today, I would be very tempted to with a PR tuned as low as possible. I would much rather have the efficiency down low where you need it, or at least where I need it.

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post #197 of 405 Old 03-25-2011, 05:51 PM
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I'm actually running my passive radiators with full mass which tunes them extremely low (around 14 hz according to Kyle). I will most likely be taking some weight off to get them closer to 20 hz tuning, since tuning them too low just seems to be wasting resources. To be clear, these things are downright scary and really low but the VMP 18"s don't seem to be getting much action. Tuning them up a bit should get them moving a little more and maybe a bit more SPL way down low (as if I need that/I already have to have the gains down a couple of notches because these subs are quite overwhelming to say the least).
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post #198 of 405 Old 03-25-2011, 06:03 PM - Thread Starter
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I don't recall,

Did anyone model the 5100 vs. the 5400 in a VMP setup tuned to around 15Hz?

There has to be some efficiency advantage with the 5100 in a PR/ported alignment.

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post #199 of 405 Old 03-26-2011, 10:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fatawan View Post

The 5100 arrived. I put it together and hooked it up free to see if it worked, set the volume way down, and it made a farting sound at me. Feels like the voice coil rubbing when I push down on it. Bummer. I played it for Parts Express and they said to send it back.

We have room to improve on the QC. In many cases with this kind of issue it's a drop or bead of glue that dripped onto the coil that causes interference with the gap so a quick inspection of the coil can detect that problem. Let me know how the replacement fits!

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post #200 of 405 Old 03-27-2011, 06:47 AM
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We have room to improve on the QC. In many cases with this kind of issue it's a drop or bead of glue that dripped onto the coil that causes interference with the gap so a quick inspection of the coil can detect that problem. Let me know how the replacement fits!

I noticed that whoever was using the glue gun seemed to be having quite a good time!
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post #201 of 405 Old 03-27-2011, 07:12 AM
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I'm building a 4cu.ft. sealed box today and i'm hoping i will be able to try the sub late this evening. I will be powering it with a bridged EP4000. I can't wait to hear it. well i need to stop typing and start cutting some wood.
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post #202 of 405 Old 03-27-2011, 11:02 AM - Thread Starter
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I'm building a 4cu.ft. sealed box today and i'm hoping i will be able to try the sub late this evening. I will be powering it with a bridged EP4000. I can't wait to hear it. well i need to stop typing and start cutting some wood.
Looking forward to your impressions.

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post #203 of 405 Old 03-27-2011, 01:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KyleLee View Post

We have room to improve on the QC. In many cases with this kind of issue it's a drop or bead of glue that dripped onto the coil that causes interference with the gap so a quick inspection of the coil can detect that problem. Let me know how the replacement fits!

So couldn't you just stick the +- into a wall plug to try to loosen it up? I 've had that happen on a number of different drivers over the years and it it was infact glue, that pretty much sheers it off. So far no ill effects have been noticed on any driver.

Blasting brown notes for 10 years and counting!

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post #204 of 405 Old 03-28-2011, 11:52 AM - Thread Starter
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Or couldn't you push on the cone enough to break it loose?

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post #205 of 405 Old 03-28-2011, 06:21 PM
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Or couldn't you push on the cone enough to break it loose?

Well on mine anyways, that didn't work. I just wired up the drivers in series and stuck the positive and negative in the wall. Shook like hell but got rid of the excess glue in the VC. I done that a few times. Mark of Mach 5 gave me the idea when it happened to one of the subs he built me. It turned out not to be glue but a problem with the VC but I still use it to this day.
Kinda backyardigan but sometimes you gotta try something right? lol

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post #206 of 405 Old 03-28-2011, 06:26 PM
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On drivers like the TC Sounds, you can just take the basket off and get to the VC that way. The joy of good drivers.
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post #207 of 405 Old 03-28-2011, 06:36 PM - Thread Starter
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On drivers like the TC Sounds, you can just take the basket off and get to the VC that way. The joy of good drivers.

True, forgot about unscrewing the motor on those.

Ya, 60Hz, 120v would definitely shake some! If that didn't break 'er loose not much would!

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post #208 of 405 Old 03-28-2011, 08:52 PM
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Hey guys, I got my sub up and running today. It was quite a learning curve when i hooked up the Art cleanbox, BFD and the amp and turned it all on and had hum problems. To make a long story short i used a temporary fix, I used the cheater plugs because I wanted to see how the sub performed without the annoying hum and I wasn't having any luck with anything else i tried. The sub sounds good and has a nice punch in the midbass. It blends in with my main speakers better than any other sub i had before. I don't have REW yet but I have an Audiocontrol SA-3050A spectrum analyzer (From my car stereo days in the past) and tomorrow when I'm home alone I will tune the sub some more and let you guys now how it turns out. Now I can't wait to get the other sub back from Parts express and get it up and running also.
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post #209 of 405 Old 03-28-2011, 11:17 PM
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Why is the 5400 more expensive to ship then the 21" B&C driver?

I was just looking at shipping and saw the shipping was about 50 more to me than the 21"

Is the 5400 in two boxes?
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post #210 of 405 Old 03-28-2011, 11:19 PM
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