I'm not quite working on my THTLP yet, but I made some sawdust today -- I finished my workbench. I attached a pic below.
This post is fairly pointless, I guess, but maybe it will be useful to another new DIYer that is thinking about what tools to get or how to get started.
The workbench isn't specifically for working on speakers, but rather just a good workbench for my garage. The top is 72*37" and it is 36" tall. It turned out nice and heavy, which is just what I was going for. I followed these plans:http://www.lowes.com/cd_Build+a+Workbench_692759023_
For the top surface, I used 1/2" Arauco ply from Lowes -- the same stuff I will be using for my THTLP build. I had them rough cut it, since the eurekazone track system I ordered won't be here until Monday, and I can't fit 4x8' sheet in my car anyway. Even after my track cutting system arrives, I might have the store do some basic cuts on the ply that I get for my THTLP since it's free, easy, and it allows me to take the stuff home easier.
To install the plywood on the workbench, I used a countersink #8 drill bit. The THTLP plans recommend using one of those if you plan to use screws. It seemed like it would be perfect for installing my workbench top, so I picked one up for less than $5. It worked fine, though I wasn't very consistent on how deep I made the countersinks.
I used one of the scraps from the plywood as a guide, and used my new circular saw to trim the ply once installed on the workbench. There was about 3/4" extra hanging over on one side and I wasn't sure how much the router trim bit would safely cut. Maybe the router trim bit could have handled that, but it didn't hurt to get a little practice with my new circular saw.
I then used my new router (Bosch 1617EVSPK) to trim the surface plywood to exactly match the top of the workbench. I used a Freud 1/2"x1.5" trim bit that I ordered from Amazon. This was the first time that I ever used a router. I don't know why, but I always thought of routers as being scary tools for some reason. But it was really easy. I made sure to install the bit correctly and to go the right direction. Easy as pie. No burns or other weirdness. It just worked. I did, of course, have safety glasses on -- well worth the $10 I spent on new ones that look like sunglasses to replace the many old scratched up / uncomfortable ones I have around the garage. I also had on some $4 Harbor Freight ear muffs for hearing protection, which also worked great.
Next I decided to roundover the edge of the workbench surface. I used a Freud (34-120) 1/4" roundover bit. I turned the speed on the router down a couple of notches in keeping with the RPM recommendation on the package. Unlike with the flush trim bit I used in the last step, the depth needs to be set precisely this time. So I made the adjustment on the fixed router base that I was using. I just eye-balled it and then did a test cut on a piece of scrap wood. I thought that I would need to make an adjustment, but the test cut looked great, so I made no adjustment. Then I routed around the whole workbench top. Again it worked perfectly with no burns and no problems -- just smooth operation and the results were excellent. I attached a pic below. I still have a lot of respect for the tool, but I'm definitely not scared of my router anymore.
It seems that a good shop vac should be on the list of "must have" tools for DIY speaker builders -- I'm glad I already had one.
I also found some 4x4' sheets of Oak 3/4" plywood at Lowes today, so I got one of those and had them cut it in half. I'll be using one half as the top for my Eurekazone Smart Table. It felt much stiffer than the other plywoods -- should be good for the table. I also picked up some Douglas Fir 1x4s for the smart table. I wasn't sure what wood to get for the 1x4s, but these boards were pretty straight and they had slightly rounded edges which should be good for my intended usage.