6x sealed mael-x build, two arrays and two cubes. - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 85 Old 04-13-2011, 08:42 PM - Thread Starter
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No EQ and no room




Yes they are gen 1!

So i was cruising through the AVS classifieds one day and came upon a deal that I just couldn't pass up, 6 mael-x drivers for 325 each shipped. Well 04FLHRCI was great to deal with and the packaging job that he did on them was great. The reason I am going to the sealed setup is that I currently run a skinny THT and a 24.5 THT. They are great and put out a fair amount of bass but they roll off at 20hz, plus I love buying gear and getting to play with new stuff is always fun.


So the reason that I am going to go with an array is that I could fit them into my uncompleted room compared to the dual opposed setup. All three of my LCR's when changed over to ported will measure about 120" across and my room is about 180" wide. So I was going to put two up in the front corners(arrays) and the other two in the back corner(cubes).

The array's are notnyt's design

and the cubes are the neodan design

I cut some wood today


and of course when I started to dry fit everything together it didn't fit the best way. I am going to have to hit it with a pattern bit.



A couple of questions though.
1)I would kinda like to use a speakon setup for these but I don't know what terminal cup to get. I was thinking These guys but I kinda wonder if the plastic will be able to hold up to the immense pressure that I want these cabs to get down to. I have used these on all my THT builds and e-wave builds and they have been pretty good but I cracked the plastic on one of them last time. I am considering this as it looks to be all metal


2)Wiring and power. Notnyt runs dual marathons on his quad arrays, if I run the two arrays to combined load of 4ohms do I lose any benefits that I had going into it(I can't recall if parallel losses efficieny or impedance). I was figuring I could just use two berry's or maybe a marathon 5050 for the fronts and an ep for the backs. I have 3 15am drops that I dedicated just for the audio stuff. Its very easy to get at so I could switch to a 20amp breaker but then I have to upgrade my line correct? What do I gain with a 20amp line?


3)screws? Just standard button head wood screws to secure the driver?
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post #2 of 85 Old 04-13-2011, 09:12 PM
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I actually run quad marathons =] They're much happier at 4ohms. Also, the plastic holds up fine. I don't have any issues sealing and I used the big 4 terminal ones. No leaks.

If you have 12 gauge wiring from the panel to the outlets, you can switch to a 20a breaker and be ok. If you have 14 gauge wiring, its a code violation. My marathons pull 2400 watts at max level when pushing 10hz sine waves. This maxes out a 20a breaker.
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post #3 of 85 Old 04-14-2011, 05:02 PM - Thread Starter
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Were you able to test the marathons on the mael's before they crapped the bed?

I'm really struggling with how to wire these things up. If I run them parallel I get an 8ohm load but my SPL will drop by about 6db correct? Series fixes that but its a 2ohm load and most amps really can't handle that.

also I'm 4mm beyond xmax if I hit all six with 10kw of power.
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post #4 of 85 Old 04-14-2011, 05:06 PM
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Your maelstroms have two 8 ohm coils correct? I had gen2 maels with dual 4 ohm vc's. I was running them at 2 ohm load on 2 marathons.

Now I run 4 ohm load across 4 marathons.

How many woofers are you trying to power and what do you have for amps?
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post #5 of 85 Old 04-14-2011, 08:02 PM - Thread Starter
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yeah I have the original mael-x, I though both were 4 ohms. edit-tested them out and they are 8ohm coils.


Still don't have an amp, was thinking of an ma 5050 for the two front arrays(one on each channel) and maybe an ep for the cubes that I will put towards the rear.


I would like to run three marathons, one for each array and one for the two cubes but I don't think the budget will allow it.
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post #6 of 85 Old 04-16-2011, 07:44 PM - Thread Starter
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So where is the best spot to get the 5050 from?

JR will send it to my door for 714 and that's the best I have found.
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post #7 of 85 Old 04-16-2011, 09:37 PM
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post #8 of 85 Old 04-17-2011, 07:44 AM - Thread Starter
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So I was measuring the placement of the braces and it looks like the bottom and top ones are not the same distance from the ends in mael-x box. I get 7 15/16" from the inside end of the top to the inside of the brace. This is a different value from the bottom one.

I'm not certain if this was done on purpose either.
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post #9 of 85 Old 04-17-2011, 09:18 PM
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I just placed the bracing in the cab so it wouldn't hit the motor. I just placed them quickly int hat sketchup file. You don't have to place it perfect, just put em in and cut the interconnecting pieces to size.

I fixed a bunch of stuff when I redrew it for the LMS subs including slightly different bracing and a very slightly larger cab. You can see the changes in my LMS thread I have the enclosure in there too.

Also like I said, I run 4 ma5050s. One for each enclosure. You might want to consider more power than one amp for 4 woofers.
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post #10 of 85 Old 04-18-2011, 07:39 AM - Thread Starter
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Some questions
1)So did the motor sit on the braces at all?

2)So what about the spider on the sub, it looks like the braces may intersect with the braces in the box. Did you have to spin the sub a little bit in order to get it to fit in?

3)Are most outlets just rated to 15 amp, is there a special 20amp outlet I will need?

Marathon 5050 ordered, I will probably get more as time goes on. Now I gotta wire up the 12gauge wire that i got yesterday for the electrical. I wonder if the wife will notice the yellow wire instead of the normal grey. Course I doubt she(as in seeing with her eyes) will notice a difference between the THT's and the arrays
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post #11 of 85 Old 04-18-2011, 08:15 AM
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1) No, didn't want any odd buzzing or vibration from contact.
2) Yes, some positions it would hit the basket, easy enough to fit it in still
3) Most outlets are are rated to 15a, it depends on the wiring used. You can easily run 20a of power from a 15a outlet (nema 15r vs 20r) as long as the wiring (12awg needed for 20a) and breaker support it.
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post #12 of 85 Old 04-20-2011, 11:52 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by notnyt View Post

1) No, didn't want any odd buzzing or vibration from contact.
.

thanks that was my biggest confusion, I thought the braces were for putting the magnet on.

I have been making good progress but my little helper keeps my attention elsewhere

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post #13 of 85 Old 04-25-2011, 08:17 PM - Thread Starter
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one other thing I want to mention is that 04FL did a hell of a job packaging these things. Not only did he double box them but he used polystyrene to keep them from moving around. The poly had a cutout for the woofer and for the motor. There was nary a nick or compressed box that I got.



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post #14 of 85 Old 04-25-2011, 08:44 PM
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This will be awesome, I would love to hear another comparison between the THT and mal-x's. Great price as well. I love the packaging which gives me a great idea when shipping. Please keep us posted. I am starting another build myself and will start a new thread.

LCR-Dual stacked BFM DR-250's
Surrounds- Dual stacked BFM W10's
subs-12 SI 18's ported 6hz.
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post #15 of 85 Old 04-26-2011, 09:44 AM
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When you going to have these boys hooked-up A.J.?

Quote:
Originally Posted by stgdz View Post

one other thing I want to mention is that 04FL did a hell of a job packaging these things. Not only did he double box them but he used polystyrene to keep them from moving around. The poly had a cutout for the woofer and for the motor. There was nary a nick or compressed box that I got.



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post #16 of 85 Old 04-27-2011, 04:18 AM - Thread Starter
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hopefully next week, I am close to finishing the prep work now.


Routing holes will be around friday night and paint this weekend.
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post #17 of 85 Old 04-29-2011, 04:36 PM - Thread Starter
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5050 arrived, didn't know it had two fans in it.


How should I go about doing the fan mod tony? I got the scythe fans but the header is different.
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post #18 of 85 Old 04-29-2011, 04:37 PM
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Cut the wires, the yellow wire on the scythe fans is a speed indicator. It is not used. Attach the like colors, and you're good to go.

Who's Tony?
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post #19 of 85 Old 04-29-2011, 07:02 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by notnyt View Post

Who's Tony?

Thats the first name I think of when I see your screen name every time. I have deleted tony a couple of times in the past must have missed it this time.


Fan mod done, I think I will post some pics and a guide tonight. The fans are really quiet, like really quiet. I thought they weren't working.


The amp is a freaking beast, I've got three 60+lb amps in my rack now(one marathon and two parasounds), 6 50lb drivers, one aching back, and one pissed off wife when she finally asked what are all the boxes in the garage and the new one that got dropped off on the porch tonigh.
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post #20 of 85 Old 04-29-2011, 07:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stgdz View Post

Thats the first name I think of when I see your screen name every time. I have deleted tony a couple of times in the past must have missed it this time.


Fan mod done, I think I will post some pics and a guide tonight. The fans are really quiet, like really quiet. I thought they weren't working.


The amp is a freaking beast, I've got three 60+lb amps in my rack now(one marathon and two parasounds), 6 50lb drivers, one aching back, and one pissed off wife when she finally asked what are all the boxes in the garage and the new one that got dropped off on the porch tonigh.

Hah, I'm Rob My screen name is normally nyt, but too short for this forum. The Marathons perform best in 4 ohm bridged just FYI. Not nearly as good with dual 2 ohm loads per channel.
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post #21 of 85 Old 04-29-2011, 07:20 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by notnyt View Post

The Marathons perform best in 4 ohm bridged just FYI. Not nearly as good with dual 2 ohm loads per channel.

yeah I am trying to figure out how to wire it up, rite now I have it running off my THT skinny since the boxes are still in the garage.

Didn't have to make any level adjustments going from the one of the parasound channels.


So about the 240 line with these things. I've got three 20amp lines running to my outlet and the most this thing can get out at 110 is 2400watts. Switching to a 240line would double that, but I haven't a clue with how marathon wires these things. But I saw in one of your posts you listed the wiring block for switching to 240 line. There were two other locations on the PCB though that needed to be changed, I will have to scan it on monday. Oh and two top it off the next page mentions 220V instead of 240 where the power supply is selectable.
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post #22 of 85 Old 04-29-2011, 07:25 PM
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post #23 of 85 Old 04-30-2011, 09:51 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by notnyt View Post

Don't try it. It didn't work out well for my amp. I made the necessary changes.

so realistically then what do these amps deliver for watts and volts? Can they put out 5kw in bridged mode?


Also did you do anything for the annoying blue lights?
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post #24 of 85 Old 04-30-2011, 11:50 AM
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i measured 59 volts in stereo powering an lms 5400 at 4 ohms right before clipping.

in bridged 4 ohm i measured 100v without clipping.
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post #25 of 85 Old 05-02-2011, 06:40 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by notnyt View Post

i measured 59 volts in stereo powering an lms 5400 at 4 ohms right before clipping.

in bridged 4 ohm i measured 100v without clipping.

That's pretty much just uncorking the amp rite? That's the line voltage really.

So I have to ask. When running a 110 line what advantage does the 5050 have over the ep2500? Chucky measures 105v bridged at 4 ohms. Seems like the 5050 needs a 240 line to really strut its stuff.
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post #26 of 85 Old 05-02-2011, 07:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stgdz View Post

That's pretty much just uncorking the amp rite? That's the line voltage really.

So I have to ask. When running a 110 line what advantage does the 5050 have over the ep2500? Chucky measures 105v bridged at 4 ohms. Seems like the 5050 needs a 240 line to really strut its stuff.

5050 will put out 100v on a 4 ohm load with a 10hz sine wave continuous without breaking a sweat. That's pulling over 20a of power. EP2500 are fused at either 7 or 9 amps, I don't remember. They're not even in the same league. I'll be selling mine soon for cheap hopefully. I hope to have some LG FP14000 clones coming shortly.
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post #27 of 85 Old 05-03-2011, 05:33 PM - Thread Starter
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1300+ views and its like a PM thread between me and you.


Maybe I should post some phone conversations or future e-mail conversations that I have had with Kevin at Diy cable about this to see if it may drum up some interest.
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post #28 of 85 Old 05-03-2011, 05:35 PM
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post #29 of 85 Old 05-03-2011, 05:43 PM
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"Hah, I'm Rob"

Yeah, there is something about your name. I keep calling you Josh.

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post #30 of 85 Old 05-03-2011, 08:08 PM - Thread Starter
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Marathon 5050 Fan Modification
I am not responsible for any damage you may do to your amp


The marathon 5050 uses two 12volt fans. I replaced mine with with scythe slipstream 120mm from the cooler guys http://www.coolerguys.com/slipstream120.html


In order to remove the fans you will have to first pop the top and in order to get that off you will need the star bit that is oh so great for screws.

Once the top is off you can proceed to removing the fan brackets, I found this out later after removing the front face plate but all you will have to remove is the four screws beneath the fan header on the bottom of the case.


Once those screws are out then you will need to locate the power lines, they are black and red and burried beneath the channel amps. They are held in place by three zip ties.

Cut the zip ties with a long needle nose pliers or a clipper while being careful to not damage the channel. Once the wires are out, you can pull out the headers at the back of the amp


Do note the locations of the fans and where they are plugged in. One of the channels occupied the location where there was header on each side and the other had a header only on one side. I tend to take pictures of all the electrical stuff that I take apart as its easier for me to put it back together.

Cut the wires for both, black to black, red to red, and the yellow doesn't get hooked up. Solder away and then plug in your new fans. I had mine blowing into the amp from front to back. The amp runs really cool and I can't believe how quiet these fans are, my projector is louder than this.
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