Lilmike's Cinema F-20 - Page 19 - AVS Forum
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post #541 of 1732 Old 06-11-2011, 06:34 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks. I'm actually feeling pretty good today, that or I grabbed the wrong bottle of pain meds....

The other builds are all underway, but no threads yet. Things have been mentioned here and there. Anymore, I typically finish stuff, then measure it and post.

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post #542 of 1732 Old 06-11-2011, 08:09 PM
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hope you are up and about soon. my dad messed up his knees playing rugby for too many years!! take care of them!!

Matt

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post #543 of 1732 Old 06-13-2011, 02:06 AM
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Just cranked out two of these this weekend with Kibe29. Fairly easy build. Acquired lumber and stuff and had two built within two days. I'm sure he'll post a thread soon with all the pics and his impressions of the build. The output is fairly impressive.

Have you plotted driver excursion yet? I'd be interested to see that.


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post #544 of 1732 Old 06-13-2011, 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by notnyt View Post



Just cranked out two of these this weekend with Kibe29. Fairly easy build. Acquired lumber and stuff and had two built within two days. I'm sure he'll post a thread soon with all the pics and his impressions of the build. The output is fairly impressive.

Have you plotted driver excursion yet? I'd be interested to see that.

Nice build! Thanks for the pic!
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post #545 of 1732 Old 06-13-2011, 12:12 PM
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lilmike, after looking at your build for a while - is the F20 basically a sealed enclosure with a horn around it? This would mean that it would have the same response as a sealed enclosure, with the bandpass boost effect of the horn added to its output?

Thanks
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post #546 of 1732 Old 06-13-2011, 01:01 PM
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Looks great! Makes me want to build another one I miss the woodworking. I need a new project...

(European models do not accept banana plugs.)

 

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post #547 of 1732 Old 06-13-2011, 07:30 PM
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I'll start a thread soon. I'm still recovering from the crazy weekend of building. I finished painting one of them today. Hopefully I'll have a chance to try it out after work tomorrow. The second one has to be routed and the access panel installed then it will be ready to have the finish work done.

I have a question on powering it. I have a consumer amp, an Adcom 555II to be exact that I was planning to use to power it. 325watts into 4 ohms so it's perfect. I bought and received the minidsp rev A since I'm using a consumer amp. The problem is I just looked up the specs from Adcom's website and it says input sensitivity is 1.75v and gain is 27db. I think this will be a problem with the standard minidsp. Any thoughts?
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post #548 of 1732 Old 06-14-2011, 07:38 AM - Thread Starter
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That is a great amp.

As far as the MiniDSP? I'd try it and see - you have it already.

I agree though - the specs do indicate that the sensitivity may be an issue. According to their specs, the MiniDSP does only output 0.9 V RMS. Perhaps a preamp after the miniDSP would help?

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post #549 of 1732 Old 06-15-2011, 05:35 PM
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Is there a time delay for this enclosure(if it's used along with sealed subs) and will the 15" version of the below subwoofer work? Thanks in advance lilmike.

http://www.kicker.com/sites/default/...C101215Man.pdf
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post #550 of 1732 Old 06-15-2011, 06:28 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by louisdamani View Post

Is there a time delay for this enclosure(if it's used along with sealed subs) and will the 15" version of the below subwoofer work? Thanks in advance lilmike.

http://www.kicker.com/sites/default/...C101215Man.pdf

Delay? Yup, it is a horn, there is an additional 420.3 CM of path in front of the driver, or about 12 milliseconds at sea level.

4.2 meters/344 meters/second = 0.012 seconds.

If those specs are accurate, those Kicker 15s will work great in this cabinet. They are basically a drop-in replacement for the MFW. The SPL plots overlay each other. Just like the MFW, the model says that there might be excursion issues right at the box tune (19 Hz) but other than that, they're power limited, just like the MFW is.

I do know that the 2010 Kicker Comp 15s have different specs. If the specs above are for the driver you have (2003 -2007 Comp Series), they will work. If you picked up drivers at Best Buy yesterday (2010 Comps), chances are they won't.

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post #551 of 1732 Old 06-15-2011, 07:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lilmike View Post

Delay? Yup, it is a horn, there is an additional 420.3 CM of path in front of the driver, or about 12 milliseconds at sea level.

4.2 meters/344 meters/second = 0.012 seconds.

If those specs are accurate, those Kicker 15s will work great in this cabinet. They are basically a drop-in replacement for the MFW. The SPL plots overlay each other. Just like the MFW, the model says that there might be excursion issues right at the box tune (19 Hz) but other than that, they're power limited, just like the MFW is.

I do know that the 2010 Kicker Comp 15s have different specs. If the specs above are for the driver you have (2003 -2007 Comp Series), they will work. If you picked up drivers at Best Buy yesterday (2010 Comps), chances are they won't.

Upon further investigation I have 10C154 which are the 2010 version. They have less T/S parameters listed than the previous versions .

http://www.kicker.com/sites/default/...gual%20e01.pdf
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post #552 of 1732 Old 06-15-2011, 09:13 PM - Thread Starter
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They work better than I thought they would, but they are not that good of a fit to be honest.

New one in black, old one in gray.



That's a pretty big hole there at 30 Hz. The dip is in an excursion minima, so in theory, you could EQ it, but you run the risk of burning up the coil. Filling a 6 dB hole takes a fair bit of power, essentially a fourfold increase.
LL

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post #553 of 1732 Old 06-16-2011, 08:15 AM
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Thanks Mike. I'll use a couple MFW-15 drivers out of my sealed subs when I make the F-20 cabinets.
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post #554 of 1732 Old 06-16-2011, 08:19 AM
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Hey mike, can these be turned upside down with the port on top? If so I could get my ceiling gain as well and make a bass array.
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post #555 of 1732 Old 06-16-2011, 08:46 AM
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Hey mike, can these be turned upside down with the port on top? If so I could get my ceiling gain as well and make a bass array.

Driver will still be in a vertical alignment standing with the mouth on top. It will be fine. I actually did this for a bit while testing locations but really the front sub's mouth needed to be on top and I cant fit the f-20 on either side of the screen, so it laid back down

(European models do not accept banana plugs.)

 

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post #556 of 1732 Old 06-20-2011, 11:40 AM
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Another question, I have 4 JBL 2225's sitting here doing nothing, will they work in these cabinets?
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post #557 of 1732 Old 06-20-2011, 05:35 PM
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Another question, I have 4 JBL 2225's sitting here doing nothing, will they work in these cabinets?
No, but they will work in mine .
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post #558 of 1732 Old 06-20-2011, 06:16 PM - Thread Starter
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Another question, I have 4 JBL 2225's sitting here doing nothing, will they work in these cabinets?
Not well. They have too high an Fs and a bit too much motor.



There are FAR better places to use these drivers, like in my new mains...
LL

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post #559 of 1732 Old 06-20-2011, 07:19 PM
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I will trade them if anyone is interested.
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post #560 of 1732 Old 06-21-2011, 12:26 AM
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Mk you always seem to have a bunch of good drivers. Did you make any progress on your F20s?

I am really interested in your opinion going from a pair of DTS10s.


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post #561 of 1732 Old 06-21-2011, 01:32 AM
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Is this the stuff you use to assemble these beasts?

(The slight obscurity in my question is related to international-shipping concerns ...)
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post #562 of 1732 Old 06-21-2011, 02:46 AM
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Is this the stuff you use to assemble these beasts?

(The slight obscurity in my question is related to international-shipping concerns ...)

That's the stuff, but it is a rather small container. You would not get far with a 4oz tube. I am not sure where you are shipping to, but I am pretty sure that you can find a suitable adhesive where you live. It is an expanding polyurethane adhesive. Pretty common in the construction industry. I have used other polyurethane adhesives to build these things as well. Go to your local hardware store and talk with the folks there. I am sure they can get something that will work for you.

If your cuts were uber precise you could use Titebond or another wood glue. But it won't help to bridge sloppy cutting gaps like the polyurethane does. With my cutting skills I definitely need it.
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post #563 of 1732 Old 06-21-2011, 08:10 AM
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Mk you always seem to have a bunch of good drivers. Did you make any progress on your F20s?

I am really interested in your opinion going from a pair of DTS10s.
As you know, I have eD cutting the wood for me but I ended up having them build them!! They will be black when done. I had them take pics along the way to see how they go together.
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post #564 of 1732 Old 06-21-2011, 08:20 AM
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Here are some pics











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post #565 of 1732 Old 06-21-2011, 08:30 AM
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Nice! Thanks for the pics. Looks like a lower grade of ply. That's not Baltic Birch ply is it?
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post #566 of 1732 Old 06-21-2011, 08:48 AM
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Auraco ply.
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post #567 of 1732 Old 06-21-2011, 09:05 AM
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I try to never point a nail gun at my hand. Sometimes the nail can penatrate due to a void or soft spot in the plywood. Of course if I was making these I'd probably be doing the same.

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post #568 of 1732 Old 06-21-2011, 09:09 AM
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I try to never point a nail gun at my hand. Sometimes the nail can penatrate due to a void or soft spot in the plywood. Of course if I was making these I'd probably be doing the same.


Well, these are the guys at eD. I would most likely shoot myself somehow. I will have more pics and once I get them up and running I will start a thread with all the pics, measurements, distortion, etc....
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post #569 of 1732 Old 06-21-2011, 10:05 AM
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I try to never point a nail gun at my hand.

It really hurts when you stick a nail into that fleshy part at the base of your thumb. Insert safety glasses nag here.

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post #570 of 1732 Old 06-21-2011, 01:55 PM - Thread Starter
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Brad nail plus fingertip = lots of blood.

Yeah. It hurts....

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