Lilmike's Cinema F-20 - Page 25 - AVS Forum
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post #721 of 1732 Old 07-17-2011, 09:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Krbass View Post

I need to buy an amp for these things, I have the EP1500 on my THTs. Will an EP2000 be too much for the MFWs?

I have the perfect amp for these. They are my Ashly's. They provide 500 watts into 4 ohms and can run one channel full range and another 20-120hz. I will sell them for $200 shipped in the US.
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post #722 of 1732 Old 07-17-2011, 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by MKtheater View Post

I have the perfect amp for these. They are my Ashly's. They provide 500 watts into 4 ohms and can run one channel full range and another 20-120hz. I will sell them for $200 shipped in the US.


MK maybe in 2 weeks when I head to utica I could pick one of these up
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post #723 of 1732 Old 07-17-2011, 09:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Krbass View Post

MK maybe in 2 weeks when I head to utica I could pick one of these up

Hell, if you come to utica you need to come over and listen to these with a similar amp(My ada amps have the same power). Let me know
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post #724 of 1732 Old 07-17-2011, 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by MKtheater View Post

Hell, if you come to utica you need to come over and listen to these with a similar amp(My ada amps have the same power). Let me know

Yeah I will shoot ya a PM this week and let you know when I am coming. I would love to hear your setup
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post #725 of 1732 Old 07-17-2011, 12:14 PM
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I have a couple questions regarding mounting the Bash 300. Should I build a separate box to house the Bash 300 or should I cut out the center of the access panel and mount the bash to it? If I do build a separate enclosure is heat an issue? Should I vent it?

Sorry if I missed this in the thread somewhere.

Thanks

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post #726 of 1732 Old 07-17-2011, 06:52 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by alittletank View Post

I have a couple questions regarding mounting the Bash 300. Should I build a separate box to house the Bash 300 or should I cut out the center of the access panel and mount the bash to it? If I do build a separate enclosure is heat an issue? Should I vent it?

Sorry if I missed this in the thread somewhere.

Thanks

Up to you. It fits through the cover with room to spare, but then you're locked into that amp. Both will work fine, just make sure everything is sealed up. I prefer to keep the sub amp near the receiver to eliminate ground loops personally.

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post #727 of 1732 Old 07-17-2011, 08:59 PM
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I'll just put the bash 300 in it's own box then. Its 40ft of wire from the avr to the f20. Would that cause a problem for the Bash300?

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post #728 of 1732 Old 07-17-2011, 09:03 PM - Thread Starter
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Might use a slightly larger size wire - 12 ga instead of 14 ga. Other than that, it should work fine.

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post #729 of 1732 Old 07-18-2011, 06:22 AM
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@lilmike (or anyone) ...

I think my amps will end up being quite a distance from my F20s. If I had to guess, I would say it will be about 60 feet of speaker cable from amp to sub. Will this present any issues? (The same really goes for just about all of the speakers except the rear surrounds.
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post #730 of 1732 Old 07-18-2011, 06:26 AM
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I think with 12ga you should be fine. You could if you want use 10ga but dont really see why. These F20's dont look like they need every drop of power from your amp.

My .02


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post #731 of 1732 Old 07-18-2011, 06:37 AM
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I forgot to ask when this thread started but I saw this was ONE..... of the cinema designs you were coming out with and I wondered do you have a bigger design maybe later coming out?

Kind of goes with the PM I sent you.


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post #732 of 1732 Old 07-18-2011, 06:45 AM
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12 gauge is more than big enough for a 60' run.


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post #733 of 1732 Old 07-18-2011, 07:12 AM
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I just ordered 300ft of 12awg from monoprice. I have crappy 18awg on my thts right now, I wonder if I will notice a difference.
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post #734 of 1732 Old 07-18-2011, 12:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Krbass View Post

I just ordered 300ft of 12awg from monoprice. I have crappy 18awg on my thts right now, I wonder if I will notice a difference.

If the runs are short, no.

YID DIY
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post #735 of 1732 Old 07-19-2011, 10:34 PM
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On off chance that anyone is reading this at this time of night.... I'm at home depot right now and need to know what size lilmike used for drywall screws.

First post of this thread in his instructions attachment- first page.

Think it's 1 1/2 " drywall screws...

Thanks

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post #736 of 1732 Old 07-19-2011, 10:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alittletank View Post

On off chance that anyone is reading this at this time of night.... I'm at home depot right now and need to know what size lilmike used for drywall screws.

First post of this thread in his instructions attachment- first page.

Think it's 1 1/2 " drywall screws...

Thanks


box of #8 x 1-5/8" drywall screws
and #8 X 1-1/4” Truss-head screws



Edit for Full list:

Materials List
2 full 4X8 sheets of ¾“ plywood
¼ sheet (24X48, with grain running along the 48” dimension) of ¾” plywood
Box of #8 X 1 5/8” drywall screws
8 10-32 X 1 ¼” socket head cap screws
8 #10 flat washers
8 10-32 Hurricane Nuts
PL Premium Construction Adhesive – 2 tubes
15” Driver (MFW or others, see build thread for discussions)
#8 X 1-1/4” Truss-head screws
1” wide, 1/8” thick closed-cell foam weatherstripping
Input terminal (your choice – I use Speakons)
Proper hardware to mount terminal – Speakons take 2 #6 X 3/4” wood screws
2 feet of speaker wire


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post #737 of 1732 Old 07-19-2011, 11:09 PM
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Thanks Erich!

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post #738 of 1732 Old 07-20-2011, 12:37 AM
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I feel stupid even asking this but here goes...


10-32 X 1 ¼ socket head cap screws
&
5/16 x1 1/4 socket head cap screws

Are these the same thing?

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post #739 of 1732 Old 07-20-2011, 10:00 AM
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A 10-32 UNF screw has 32 threads per inch opposed to the 24 threads per inch of a 5/16 screw, why do you ask?

Here's a good resource for bolt/screw info.
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post #740 of 1732 Old 07-20-2011, 10:23 AM
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A 10-32 UNF screw has 32 threads per inch opposed to the 24 threads per inch of a 5/16 screw, why do you ask?

Here's a good resource for bolt/screw info.

He is thinking 10/32 vs 5/16 (kind of like 4/8=1/2) which is not the case here. two different systems of measurement as your link dictates

(European models do not accept banana plugs.)

 

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post #741 of 1732 Old 07-20-2011, 11:14 AM
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That clears it up. I didnt see that screw on PE so I checked at Lowes. Lowes had the 5/16 version.

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post #742 of 1732 Old 07-20-2011, 11:34 AM
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Be sure your "T" nuts have the same thread.

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post #743 of 1732 Old 07-21-2011, 07:48 AM
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Does anyone see any issues with the use of this terminal connector with my four F20s?
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post #744 of 1732 Old 07-21-2011, 07:54 AM
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Has anyone used any grills over the horn of their F20? If so, what have you found that works the best? I realize that there is AT material that one can purchase for this, but if this is what you are using, how are you attaching it to the sub?
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post #745 of 1732 Old 07-21-2011, 08:37 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dutchswan0311 View Post

Does anyone see any issues with the use of this terminal connector with my four F20s?

Looks a little light-duty to me. I prefer these and these.

They are inexpensive, easy to install, easy to use, foolproof wrt polarity, they lock in place, and there are no exposed wires.

I'm in the process of switching everything to Speakon connectors.

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post #746 of 1732 Old 07-21-2011, 08:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lilmike View Post

Looks a little light-duty to me. I prefer these and these.

They are inexpensive, easy to install, easy to use, foolproof wrt polarity, they lock in place, and there are no exposed wires.

I'm in the process of switching everything to Speakon connectors.

I was on those exact pages earlier today. I liked the price of my link better For the speakon, that is over $5 per. Sounds reasonable, except that I would need 19 of them.
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post #747 of 1732 Old 07-21-2011, 09:01 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dutchswan0311 View Post

I was on those exact pages earlier today. I liked the price of my link better For the speakon, that is over $5 per. Sounds reasonable, except that I would need 19 of them.

They'll probably work OK, but the wires could loosen/get pulled out much more easily.

Actually, $5 each is not bad when you look at the typical terminals and include some banana plugs. There are plenty of options that cost more.

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post #748 of 1732 Old 07-21-2011, 09:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lilmike View Post

They'll probably work OK, but the wires could loosen/get pulled out much more easily.

Actually, $5 each is not bad when you look at the typical terminals and include some banana plugs. There are plenty of options that cost more.

I know I know. But also remember, my speakers/subs will all permanently installed (screwed into studs) and will never move...and we don't have earthquakes in Iowa, so...
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post #749 of 1732 Old 07-21-2011, 09:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dutchswan0311 View Post

I know I know. But also remember, my speakers/subs will all permanently installed (screwed into studs) and will never move...and we don't have earthquakes in Iowa, so...

The vibration from the bass itself can loosen up the connection. Speakons are a twist and lock design that works really well. It's cheap insurance if you ask me.

Dumb enough to spend lots of cash on this junk!
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post #750 of 1732 Old 07-21-2011, 09:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by flyng_fool View Post

The vibration from the bass itself can loosen up the connection. Speakons are a twist and lock design that works really well. It's cheap insurance if you ask me.

I suppose. Which connectors do you use on the driver side of the equation? There seems to be a lot of options.
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