Lilmike's Cinema F-20 - Page 60 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1771 of 1789 Old 03-29-2015, 04:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lilmike View Post
Like tsloms, I chuck the tap into my cordless drill and chase each insert. I only chase mine after they're installed in the baffle though.

With my cordless, I set the clutch pretty loose so that I don't snap the tap if it binds.

Installation is really easy once you have a properly-sized pilot hole and a use proper sized hex tip on a drill or impact driver.
When I am working with new type of ply or a new size of inserts, I always test-install a few on some scrap, that way I can get the pilot hole diameter just right.
When you use those style threaded inserts with the flange, which side of the panel do you install them into? Do you use them so the bolt is inserted from the flange side or the non-flange side? I don't really know the best way to phrase that question so hopefully you get my meaning.

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post #1772 of 1789 Old 03-29-2015, 04:44 PM
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Install 'em from the back. That way the shoulder will pull it tighter into the baffle when the bolts are installed.
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post #1773 of 1789 Old 03-29-2015, 05:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bryan.lynch View Post
Install 'em from the back. That way the shoulder will pull it tighter into the baffle when the bolts are installed.
That's the way I've done it in the past, and for the same reason. The only problem I've run into doing it that way is if the the threads aren't totally clean and the insert sticks to the bolt it unscrews the insert out of the panel. I was wondering if anyone else has experienced this.

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post #1774 of 1789 Old 03-29-2015, 06:47 PM
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Hence the reason for the tap and putting a dab of PL on the insert before you put it in. If you do those two things you shouldn't have any issues unless you happen to cross thread the bolt.
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post #1775 of 1789 Unread 07-05-2015, 10:48 PM
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I have Baltic birch plywood for two F-20's cut, one has been sitting partially assembled on the work bench for a month, other pile standing patiently.


#2 waiting:



Got some bracing done today, went with the Swiss cheese I saw a few pages back.





Mounting is a single steel ring tapped with 8 holes.





With the JBL 1514 test fit.




No promises when I get back to it. Still need to cut the access, and buy paint to get inside the mouth done before I close up the other side panel.
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post #1776 of 1789 Unread 07-05-2015, 11:20 PM
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Looking good!

Using the steel ring for a mounting flange in an interesting way to do it. It looks very nicely done.

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post #1777 of 1789 Unread 07-08-2015, 12:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post
is there a post with the "drivers that work"?

another guy raised a question about the Dayton hf and the jbl gt1514 which sent me back looking at this.

we discussed that driver a while ago, but here it is again with voltage levels set for 1 watt.

black line is 1514d, gray line is mfw


[/IMG][/URL]
I have a build with the JBL 1514 started, with the above modeled response - where do you suggest crossing the subs to the mains?

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post #1778 of 1789 Unread 07-08-2015, 12:45 PM
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answered in your other thread.

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post #1779 of 1789 Unread 07-10-2015, 07:51 PM
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Well it's going to be another black box.
I tried the Restore 4x, so far very impressed with the finish.
This is one coat, applied with a foam roller. Used up maybe a quart or so.

I'll see how it sets up overnight, tomorrow give it a light sand to get off the gnats and mosquitoes that are dried into it, and give it a 2nd coat. But one coat is good coverage already.





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post #1780 of 1789 Unread 07-11-2015, 01:14 AM
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ha! nice.

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post #1781 of 1789 Unread 07-12-2015, 09:33 AM
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Love the tapped steel mounting ring, no worries about a threaded insert spinning out.

Good to see another F-20 build.

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post #1782 of 1789 Unread 07-12-2015, 10:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NWCgrad View Post
Love the tapped steel mounting ring, no worries about a threaded insert spinning out.

Good to see another F-20 build.
It's the most bullet proof way I could think of to install a driver. My only downside I thought of was that if I do want to upgrade/change the sub and the basket holes are far off, I am screwed trying to drill and tap new threads. Two or three of the holes are so close to the side panels that I couldn't get a drill in there square.

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post #1783 of 1789 Unread 07-12-2015, 01:33 PM
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post #1784 of 1789 Unread 07-13-2015, 09:50 AM
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Just now getting around to building this sub. I have most of the pieces cut and rabbited. Also have the folds drawn on. Going to start assembly in the next day or so. I have a tempest x2 that I was going to use but it seems like a waste of a really capable sub (since this design was using a very 'cheap' sub, I can use the tempest in another build). What can I buy that is currently available (the mfw 15 is not available) that models similarly?
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post #1785 of 1789 Unread 07-13-2015, 11:09 AM
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I actually built my F-20 a little over a year ago, and it was a bit different than most, but turned out to be a great sub.
I used a 12" Dayton Titanic MK II. I'll attach the specs below. It turned out to be a great fit. Even though I have it slightly underpowered at the moment, it's more than enough volume. My current home is too small and it's not a good look for a fridge size box in there. It's been at a friend's house in his son's room. I still occasionally get compliments on how cool it is from his friends. I make sure to give all the credit to lilmike.
I built it (per lilmike's recommendation) at 13" wide on the internal parts, and cut the driver hole approximately 1.5" closer to the end for the 12" driver. Everything else was used just like the basic F-20 plans.

That's groundplane 1M spl at 500 watts. In-band, the driver is within xmech, just over xmax.




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post #1786 of 1789 Unread 07-13-2015, 11:31 AM
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Mostly done in these pics, but at least there won't be any "Pics or it didn't happen" posts.
We just left it unpainted/finished.
Driving it with a BASH 300 from PE. Speakon connectors and cable are super simple to wire up and use.
Very exceptional for an under $300 sub! Barely more $$ than my BIC H100 and flat out destroys it (except for size).






Can we expect anymore lilmike designs coming up anytime soon?
Giving some serious thought about building a lilwrecker next.

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post #1787 of 1789 Unread 07-15-2015, 07:08 AM
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Figured I'd show off the progress for my f-20, we're putting in a tempest x2 and it will be powered by a crown xls1000.
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post #1788 of 1789 Unread Today, 06:41 AM
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Anyone know where I can buy a driver that will work well with this? I currently have the tempest x2 installed in my f-20 and would love to use that driver in another build.
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post #1789 of 1789 Unread Today, 07:54 AM
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JBL GTO 1514D Seems to be a very good match for this design.
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