Lilmike's Cinema F-20 - Page 61 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #1801 of 1817 Old 03-16-2016, 11:00 AM
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Driver List

I am thinking of building an F-20 and had a couple questions before I start cutting wood. Is there a list of approved drivers? Obviously the MFW and Dayton can be used, but are there any others? The other question is about the bevel angle on the internal panels. I cannot find in the plans where it specifies the and of the bevel cuts. Does anyone know what these should be?


Thanks
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post #1802 of 1817 Old 03-16-2016, 11:29 AM
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^

after looking at the pic in post 1,

those worrysome bevel cuts are not such a huge concern

it is a simple (ly) beautiful design
my experience from looking at and building boxes with internal panels as depicted, those bevel angles come in around 5 degrees or slightly more i.e.v : not much

cut your panels straight, check your dry fit
then use a belt sander to get a little angle,
which is why you constantly check the dry fit,
you really only need to come semi close, no reason to go full-on OCD

the fit does not have to be a perfect flush fit, it's not heirloom furniture for your great-great grandchildren

you should be using PL3 as your construction adhesive

applied liberally, it will expand, fill and seal that joint air tight

go thru your clamping.blocking, etc. dry run set up before going for it,
PL3 will slide you out of spec if you don't prepare for it

ask me how I know . .
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post #1803 of 1817 Old 03-16-2016, 02:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chad1377 View Post
Back from the dead...Literally


Did the HF drop right into the hole from the DVC? Did the screw holes line up? The specs show them as being a little different sizes.
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post #1804 of 1817 Old 03-16-2016, 02:46 PM
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Did the HF drop right into the hole from the DVC? Did the screw holes line up? The specs show them as being a little different sizes.
I used the original screw holes and it bolted up fine.

On the down side, I think I cooked my HF after a couple hours of "testing". Argh, I knew that Crown amp might over power it. I'm hoping maybe a wire came loose, but I'm too discouraged to pull it apart again and look.
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post #1805 of 1817 Old 03-16-2016, 04:13 PM
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Ouch! The HFs extra power handling really only helps at higher frequencies. On the low end both are excursion limited and the DVC actually has more Xmax. I bet you bottomed it out but who knows?
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post #1806 of 1817 Old 03-16-2016, 07:00 PM
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Still needing a list of compatible drivers. The Dayton DVC is discontinued as is the MFW. The Dayton HF and Ultimax are both on back order. Are there any other good drivers I can use? I know the Alpine SWS drivers are used in some other horns to good effect. Would the SWS or SWR 15 work well for the F-20? Thanks guys for the help.
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post #1807 of 1817 Old 03-16-2016, 07:43 PM
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You can order the Dayton HF from other retailers. Look on eBay, some have a few in stock. You won't be able to use coupon codes or get the excellent PE service but if you just can't wait...

You might be able to find the jbl 1514d online someplace. It models really good but I'm not sure if anyone actually tested it to verify.
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post #1808 of 1817 Old 03-16-2016, 09:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brookhart995 View Post
Still needing a list of compatible drivers. The Dayton DVC is discontinued as is the MFW. The Dayton HF and Ultimax are both on back order. Are there any other good drivers I can use? I know the Alpine SWS drivers are used in some other horns to good effect. Would the SWS or SWR 15 work well for the F-20? Thanks guys for the help.
whoaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa, when did the Dayton DVC get discontinued? sad cuz that was a great budget driver ... I still have one lying around actually
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post #1809 of 1817 Old 03-28-2016, 09:56 AM
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Well I just completed construction of my F-20 this weekend. Here are a couple of pictures showing the internals and after I attached the final panel. I am going to load it with a MFW driver that I was lucky enough to locate on Ebay. During my driver search I was able to get in contact with a person who had 5 leftover MFW drivers that had minor VC rubbing issues. I bought all 5 for $25.00 and am able to get them repaired locally (Dallas) for $40.00 each. I thought it was a good deal. So I might be making more F-20's or other compatible subs in the near future.
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post #1810 of 1817 Old 12-19-2016, 10:34 AM
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Hi,

I have an ultimax 15 right now in the PE sealed box.

I'm looking into either building a Martysub (ported) or a F20 with the UM15.

1. Is the UM15 a good match with F20?

2. Compared to a ported UM15 tuned to the same -F3 (as the F20), should I expect a +6db sensitivity from the F20 (like horns are supposed to)?

3. Should I do it?

best regards

Bern
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post #1811 of 1817 Old 05-10-2017, 05:00 PM
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driver options

I'm also looking for driver options now that the dayton dvc is gone. would the dayton classic 15 work? Any other drivers that have actually been tried and not just modeled?
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post #1812 of 1817 Old 05-10-2017, 05:07 PM
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Has anyone built both this and the bfm tht? If so which one sounds better for music. It will be in my theater room and I will eventually build a second one to even things out a bit. room is 15x19 with 8 ft ceilings. looking for tight clean powerful bass for around $500 including the inuke 1000dsp so that leaves about $300 for a sub and wood. I considered a sonosub but like the things I'm hearing about the horn subs a lot. I could do 2 classic 15's in sonotune for around the same price.
btw my current sub is a bic f12
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post #1813 of 1817 Old 05-10-2017, 06:49 PM
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On page 1, the picture of the F20, if compared to the layout of the SUBMAXIMUS V3 are remarkably pretty much the same . . .

as a FLH, yeah . . Physics rules!

I built 3 BFM THTLP's , the shape gives better placement possibilities, and for 95% of everything, good deep clean powerful response, even in the organ part of "Thus Spake Zarathrusta" . I use a BASH 300 for each and it has to run about 1/4 on the gain or else too much pressurization

but they , as designed, roll off in the low 20's, room gain and other factors will make that vary . .

I'd like , too, to hear what F20 owners/ operators have to say about the "grunt" and growl factor, especially for movies . .

And of course a report about the opening sequence of EOT . .

2 BFM THTLP's in your room, make them at least 30" wide and the inuke1000 will cruise along forever . .

but if you're after some of that sub 20 hz shake rattle and roll,

maybe a pair of those newly announced SI 18's for , what, iirc, $150 . .

there is the question of what can they perform best in . .

HTH

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post #1814 of 1817 Old 05-10-2017, 08:07 PM
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For music only the THT should have an advantage in spl due to its shorter path. The F20 is easier to build and digs slightly lower.
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post #1815 of 1817 Old 05-20-2017, 01:01 PM
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So if it comes down to the Dayton classic 15 in 2 F20's or the Dayton390hf in 1 what would you do? I'm a little limited on funds so I would have to build one now and one later if I go with the dayton Classic 15. I could purchase both of the classic drivers now and build the second cabinet later or just settle with 1 with the more expensive driver. Has anyone use the classic driver in an F20?
David
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post #1816 of 1817 Old 05-20-2017, 07:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paintman24 View Post
So if it comes down to the Dayton classic 15 in 2 F20's or the Dayton390hf in 1 what would you do? I'm a little limited on funds so I would have to build one now and one later if I go with the dayton Classic 15. I could purchase both of the classic drivers now and build the second cabinet later or just settle with 1 with the more expensive driver. Has anyone use the classic driver in an F20?

David


Just get the 390. It's a great little driver and is tough as nails.... Trust me

They will be making them for a long time to come if you ever need a replacement, but you won't.
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post #1817 of 1817 Old 05-22-2017, 09:35 AM
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Is anyone doing a flat pack for these enclosures? I have four 15" 390HF-4 drivers that are looking for a good home. I would think two of these F20s would take care of half of them.
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