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post #91 of 125 Old 04-08-2013, 01:13 PM
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I've performed enough experimentation to suggest the EP4000 is adequate for mains usage for me, in the scenarios I experimented with.

I'd be somewhat suspect of the I-Nuke on anything but subs, but real world testing/listening would determine my preference.

IIRC;
EP1500/EP2000 = class AB
EP2500/EP4000 = class H
I-Nuke = class D


In my opinion;
Most any competently designed/built amp, operating within it's means, sound quite similar. That said, I'm convinced that there are amplifiers that are superior sounding, regardless of drive level.


Good luck

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post #92 of 125 Old 04-08-2013, 05:45 PM
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chuck's test showed a bit of distortion on the top end for the ep2500. a later investigation revealed minor crossover distortion. not sure if that is something you can measure, hear, or care about. several folks run that amp to power high end mains with success.

one writeup of the epx3000 (iirc) indicated that it did not have that problem.

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post #93 of 125 Old 04-10-2013, 07:39 AM
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Hi - I just picked up a 1000DSP to drive two 8 ohm strings of bass shakers. One of the sets has a lower wattage tolerance, so I'm looking to use different settings for each string.

I'm thinking that the right way to wire this up is the single input into A from the subwoofer out on my receiver and set the iNuke into Bi-Amp 1. Is this right?

Do I need to wire the two strings into the channel A output (+1/-1, +2,-2) or can I use the channel B output for one and Channel A for the other?

Thanks,
Win
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post #94 of 125 Old 04-11-2013, 08:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pennengr View Post

Hi - I just picked up a 1000DSP to drive two 8 ohm strings of bass shakers. One of the sets has a lower wattage tolerance, so I'm looking to use different settings for each string.

I'm thinking that the right way to wire this up is the single input into A from the subwoofer out on my receiver and set the iNuke into Bi-Amp 1. Is this right?

Do I need to wire the two strings into the channel A output (+1/-1, +2,-2) or can I use the channel B output for one and Channel A for the other?

Thanks,
Win

More simply - what is the best way to run two outputs off of a single input, using separate settings for each output?
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post #95 of 125 Old 04-11-2013, 10:50 AM
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I have an iNuke 6000 that should be delivered tomorrow. Plan on using it to power a couple of 12" TC Sounds drivers in sealed boxes. Then I am going to use the two amps that were on the subs, to power mains and center. Time to run another circuit and build another relay switch. Then it will be time to think about a 10 x 10 HD MiniDSP. smile.gif With five subs (3 up front and 2 rear) and Audyssey XT32, it actually does a good job with the bass. I place the front three on one sub output and the back two on the other sub output. Only things that have kept me from going ahead and getting the MiniDSP are the clipping, turn off pop and time it takes for manual set up. Both the clipping and pop are solvable, but my system is pretty much silent right now, so cautious about changing. The other issue, I change things often, and setting up everything manually takes some time. Awfully convenient to just use Audyssey.

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post #96 of 125 Old 04-12-2013, 06:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 5 View Post

I have an iNuke 6000 that should be delivered tomorrow. Plan on using it to power a couple of 12" TC Sounds drivers in sealed boxes. Then I am going to use the two amps that were on the subs, to power mains and center. Time to run another circuit and build another relay switch. Then it will be time to think about a 10 x 10 HD MiniDSP. smile.gif With five subs (3 up front and 2 rear) and Audyssey XT32, it actually does a good job with the bass. I place the front three on one sub output and the back two on the other sub output. Only things that have kept me from going ahead and getting the MiniDSP are the clipping, turn off pop and time it takes for manual set up. Both the clipping and pop are solvable, but my system is pretty much silent right now, so cautious about changing. The other issue, I change things often, and setting up everything manually takes some time. Awfully convenient to just use Audyssey.

Hey Mike,

I got the NU6000 to power a pair of sealed 18HO's. A couple of thoughts/questions:
  • Fan Swap. Unless you have the amp in a different room, you'll need a fan swap. I used nexus fans and it was night/day.
  • Audyssey XT32. I also have XT32. When calibrating, as you know, it wants the sub spl at 75 db. To hit that, I needed to dial down the input to about 10 o'clock. I'm concerned that since i'm feed the nu6000 unbalanced input, I'm not getting enough juice, but i guess the spl would tell?
  • miniDSP. I have one on order. I ordered an unbalanced one since the NU6000 can handle unbalanced. Are you getting a signal booster (clean box)?
  • 25 amp. This was a shocker. I was reviewing the specs and found this thing sucks 25 amps. My future equipment room has it's own dedicated circuit, but it looks like a need to add a 30 amp circuit just for the amp.


As info, I'm currently underwhelmed (http://www.avsforum.com/t/1451411/rss460ho-diy-sound-group-flat-pack-build#post_23188691). I realize a large part of that is the need to EQ the sealed subs, but I'm also thinking it could be the XT32 and/or unbalanced inputs.

Thoughts?

Java
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post #97 of 125 Old 04-12-2013, 07:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Java View Post

Hey Mike,

I got the NU6000 to power a pair of sealed 18HO's. A couple of thoughts/questions:
  • Fan Swap. Unless you have the amp in a different room, you'll need a fan swap. I used nexus fans and it was night/day.
  • Audyssey XT32. I also have XT32. When calibrating, as you know, it wants the sub spl at 75 db. To hit that, I needed to dial down the input to about 10 o'clock. I'm concerned that since i'm feed the nu6000 unbalanced input, I'm not getting enough juice, but i guess the spl would tell?
  • miniDSP. I have one on order. I ordered an unbalanced one since the NU6000 can handle unbalanced. Are you getting a signal booster (clean box)?
  • 25 amp. This was a shocker. I was reviewing the specs and found this thing sucks 25 amps. My future equipment room has it's own dedicated circuit, but it looks like a need to add a 30 amp circuit just for the amp.


As info, I'm currently underwhelmed (http://www.avsforum.com/t/1451411/rss460ho-diy-sound-group-flat-pack-build#post_23188691). I realize a large part of that is the need to EQ the sealed subs, but I'm also thinking it could be the XT32 and/or unbalanced inputs.

Thoughts?

Java

My equipment sits in the mechanical area, one floor below my theater, so noise is not a problem. Makes pro amps a dream to use.
Currently I have a couple Behringer MIC2200's that I use for boost down low. Also converts to balanced.
Luckily my rack (just shelves) that my equipment sits on is only 3' from my main electrical panel. Already planed on a new circuit. Was planning 20 amp. I could just as easily install a 30 amp.

Since my AVR (4311) does not put out balanced, I have to decide if I want to use balanced Mini DSP and keep the MIC2200's in the loop, just to convert unbalanced to balanced or use unbalanced connections. That is based on, if I even get a MiniDSP. I guess, I will first incorporate the new amp, measure again and then decide. smile.gif

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post #98 of 125 Old 04-12-2013, 07:40 AM
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Just in case anyone was STILL unclear on the iNuke amps, they seem to be able to do 10Hz just fine (iNuke 3000 DSP). I used the RealTraps test tracks to play a 10 Hz tone, and I was getting lots of cone movement, at 50% gain. Maybe today I'll push the gain to 80% and see what happens. Could be scary. smile.gif Man I wish I had a high speed camera.


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post #99 of 125 Old 04-12-2013, 11:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Java View Post

I was reviewing the specs and found this thing sucks 25 amps. My future equipment room has it's own dedicated circuit, but it looks like a need to add a 30 amp circuit just for the amp.

I doubt you'll need that unless you listen to full power sine waves for more than 20 s; the average current will be a fraction of peak.

Also, that Nexus fan (thanks for the tip BTW) is 40% less at newegg

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835610004

Noah
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post #100 of 125 Old 04-14-2013, 06:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noah katz View Post

I doubt you'll need that unless you listen to full power sine waves for more than 20 s; the average current will be a fraction of peak.

Also, that Nexus fan (thanks for the tip BTW) is 40% less at newegg

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835610004

I agree. I looked at the current draw and based on that, I am just going to install another 20 amp circuit, since I have extra 20 amp breakers. This will give me four 20 amp circuits for my HT.

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post #101 of 125 Old 04-14-2013, 09:08 AM
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As we know, it's certainly situationally specific, but wire size/voltage drop may be more a factor than breaker size (as the breaker will pass the big current needed for the ULF/LF effects, but the wire may impede the peak unless it's amply sized).

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post #102 of 125 Old 04-15-2013, 05:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FOH View Post

As we know, it's certainly situationally specific, but wire size/voltage drop may be more a factor than breaker size (as the breaker will pass the big current needed for the ULF/LF effects, but the wire may impede the peak unless it's amply sized).

This is where I am in great shape. I only run 4' of 10/2. Rack is right beside the main panel. smile.gif

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post #103 of 125 Old 04-15-2013, 12:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FOH View Post

As we know, it's certainly situationally specific, but wire size/voltage drop may be more a factor than breaker size (as the breaker will pass the big current needed for the ULF/LF effects, but the wire may impede the peak unless it's amply sized).
Breaker size is directly related to conductor current carrying capacity. The breaker is there to protect the conductor.
If the Vdrop is higher than it should be the current waveform will flatten and spread to give the same area under the curve.
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post #104 of 125 Old 04-16-2013, 10:04 AM
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If the Vdrop is higher than it should be the current waveform will flatten and spread to give the same area under the curve.

Yes it's flattening (lower amplitude); no it's not spreading, as that would mean the freq is getting lower.

Noah
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post #105 of 125 Old 04-16-2013, 12:32 PM
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Yes it's flattening (lower amplitude); no it's not spreading, as that would mean the freq is getting lower.
No. Pulse frequency is the same. Instead of it being a tall narrow spike, it is lower and wider.
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post #106 of 125 Old 04-17-2013, 02:38 PM
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ah, you're talking about the PS effects on the current waveform; I thought we were talking about voltage drop.

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post #107 of 125 Old 10-05-2013, 11:54 AM
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Or how about a HPF that changes based on the current volume or voltage the amp is running at? Like the more you turn it up, the more the HPF moves up in frequency to protect the driver? That would be kind of a cool way to enhance a limiter-type DSP function.

Have the tests for the nu3000 held up over time, that it can hit peaks well over 4000 watts into 4 ohms when bridged? Would this hold for the American versions of the nu3000/DSP/nu6000 series?
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post #108 of 125 Old 10-05-2013, 12:43 PM
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"Or how about a HPF that changes based on the current volume or voltage the amp is running at? Like the more you turn it up, the more the HPF moves up in frequency to protect the driver? That would be kind of a cool way to enhance a limiter-type DSP function."

there are several flavors of dynamic eq that do much the same thing.

Listen. It's All Good.
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post #109 of 125 Old 10-09-2013, 04:33 PM
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Quote:
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So I got my inuke 3000dsp today and went down to ncix computer store and bought noctua case fan to replace stock fan. Popped of case of inuke and fan connection is two prong


The noctua fan has four . Took back noctua fan to store and dude said all case fans have four prongs.

Do I splice into existing fan using two of the wires ?


I posted this on another thread but help from anyone would be good
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post #110 of 125 Old 10-10-2013, 06:54 AM
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Pull the whole connector off the board so that just the prongs are left and stick the new connector on top of the prongs.
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post #111 of 125 Old 10-10-2013, 11:15 AM
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That's a dual speed fan with a temp control. Just use red and black only
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post #112 of 125 Old 10-10-2013, 11:15 AM
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Or black and any other
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post #113 of 125 Old 10-10-2013, 04:17 PM
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Or black and any other

Only. Black and yellow worked.
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post #114 of 125 Old 10-10-2013, 06:23 PM
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Fan pull air inwards
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post #115 of 125 Old 10-10-2013, 07:17 PM
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I'm getting close to installing an NU6000DSP.

If I fuss with PEQ's do I have to exit the procedure for changes to take effect, or do they happen in real time?

The manual doesn't say.

Noah
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post #116 of 125 Old 10-10-2013, 07:20 PM
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not sure noah, but have you seen the software? really slick. free download.

Listen. It's All Good.
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post #117 of 125 Old 10-10-2013, 07:30 PM
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Are you changing from a pc or on the unit?
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post #118 of 125 Old 10-10-2013, 07:31 PM
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On the pc, u Ned to save then upload it onto the amp.
If changing on the amp, it is live
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post #119 of 125 Old 10-10-2013, 09:30 PM
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OK, so I'll make initial settings on the PC, load to amp, then tweak there.
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If changing on the amp, it is live

To be clear, as soon as I change a value?

I need to tame the sharp resonances of a DTS-10 sub, so it'll be a lot easier if it's instant.

The manual doesn't say what you put into the USB port; I assume a cable that you connect to a computer, as opposed to a USB flash drive with a configuration file on it - right?

Thanks

Noah
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post #120 of 125 Old 10-10-2013, 10:59 PM
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Computer to amp by USB. Or u can adjust on the amp interface. Very easy and intuitive. Limit at 20hz
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