Lab Gruppen FP14000 clone amplifiers - Page 154 - AVS Forum
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post #4591 of 4619 Old 07-17-2014, 11:06 AM
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post #4592 of 4619 Old 07-17-2014, 01:45 PM
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post #4593 of 4619 Old 07-22-2014, 03:02 PM
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First time using SpeakON and I'm a bit puzzled by the Sanway FP14k manual.



I have two subs and want to connect both to separate channels on the FP14k.

Should I use two 2 pole (SpeakON) connectors and insert them into CH1 and CH2 on the amp [one for each sub], or do I need to use one 4 pole connector and insert it into CH1 on the amp?

---

I bought two 4 pole connectors because they looked better quality. They have internal markings +1, -1. +2. -2.

I thought I could solder each sub into +1 and -1 on individual connectors, and then put the connectors into CH1 and CH2 on the amp. This seems to be logical, but the manual is not clear to me about this.

Please advice!

DAC/Preamp: miniDSP 4x10 HD and Mytek 192 Stereo DSD DAC
Speakers: JBL 4343B, JBL 4430 and JBL 120Ti
Amplifiers: Emotiva XPR-1, Denon POA 1500, QSC GX5 and Sanway's LabGruppen FP14000 clone
Sub: DIY LMS Ultra 5400
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post #4594 of 4619 Old 07-22-2014, 03:10 PM
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two 4 poles are fine.
Most amps are +1 -1 when not bridging, it should say on the back of the clone should say as well.

I wouldn't solder yet until you test that it works firstly.

"If Bad Sound Were Fatal, Audio Would Be the Leading Cause of Death."


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post #4595 of 4619 Old 07-22-2014, 03:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by popalock View Post
Doha, Qatar (aka: the hottest place on earth, aka: death valley's cousin, aka: 133°F in the shade) for a few years.
Just remember they chop off your hands there if they catch you surfing a website that isn't government sponsored and controlled,
or pretty much for any reason really... they find such things entertaining and amusing there, like public beheadings.

"If Bad Sound Were Fatal, Audio Would Be the Leading Cause of Death."


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post #4596 of 4619 Old 07-22-2014, 04:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BassThatHz View Post
Just remember they chop off your hands there if they catch you surfing a website that isn't government sponsored and controlled,
or pretty much for any reason really... they find such things entertaining and amusing there, like public beheadings.
Objective data from the Global Peace Index disagrees with your assessment.

Qatar


vs.

USA


Based on the GPI, Qatar is roughly 5x more safe than the good ol' USA. Now, considering that you can drive anywhere in Qatar within 90 min from Doha, that to me says it's a decently safe country!

 

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post #4597 of 4619 Old 07-22-2014, 04:31 PM
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I love the Middle East especially the driving. You can drive like you stole it and nobody gives a damn about you. I remember one time at an accident scene. Some Indian dude got hit by some Arab. He ran out of his car yelling, "you accident my car!" Funny camel dung stuff!

Most Muricans I knew got petrified driving over there. I felt 100% safe everywhere in the Arabian Gulf region.
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post #4598 of 4619 Old 07-23-2014, 11:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Plagen View Post
I love the Middle East especially the driving. You can drive like you stole it and nobody gives a damn about you. I remember one time at an accident scene. Some Indian dude got hit by some Arab. He ran out of his car yelling, "you accident my car!" Funny camel dung stuff!
That's racist bro...not cool.


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Most Muricans I knew got petrified driving over there. I felt 100% safe everywhere in the Arabian Gulf region.
Everywhere? Isn't Iran and a part of Iraq in the "Arabian Gulf Region"? Or are you just referring to Kuwait and below?

Anyway, getting back on topic. Can anyone remind me again how easy it is to change an amp from 110v to 220v?

I spoke to Sanway and they provided me with the attached diagram (sorry I can't post a regular picture because I am at work). Is this diagram really just telling me to resolder one position on the board and replace a fuse? Is it really that easy?
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post #4599 of 4619 Old 07-23-2014, 07:30 PM
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I finally got in touch with them through Alibaba. I have been emailing a Women named Anne as she has been assisting me. I have ordered my Power filter board it was 78 US dollars including shipping and Paypal fees. It is a newer version so it would seem that they are upgrading or addressing these amplifiers weaknesses. My old was V2 and this one is a V3. I had to do some legwork but the experience was bettter than I expected. Some have horror stories on here trying to get parts but take it for what it is its a Chinese product with no state side support so if you don't mind soldering and have access to email, a multimeter and a soldering iron I don't think it should be a problem. Attached is the newest version of the Power filter board. Note the qty. is 2.
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post #4600 of 4619 Old 07-23-2014, 07:40 PM
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I am not rushing out to go get one of these amps, BUT the more problems I see and actually seeing Sanway help out I am starting to think these are a very good option. Having a dead amp doesnt seem to be an issue anymore. Sure you might have a problem but they dont hang you out to dry.

Awesome job Sanway I applaud you guys.


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post #4601 of 4619 Old 07-26-2014, 02:00 PM
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Repair shop called today and informed me that the filter board for the power supply is fried. He said the entire board is charred. I did not know if anybody else has seen this fail in the FP14K. They claimed it would be expensive to repair at a component level so I am going to try to pick the thing up and see if I can just order the board from Sanway. Any suggestions or help would be greatly appreciated. So if this is any indication about life span for live sound it was 1.25 years from outdoor festivals to indoor ball rooms and small arenas. It was always in a rack wired to a Motion Labs 3 phase distro on a dedicated single phase 30 amp circuit with twist lock plug. Never below 4 ohms a side always on sub duty either fed from an EAW UX8800 or XTA DP 226.
OT : How do you like the XTA? Have you compared it to a Lake?
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post #4602 of 4619 Old 07-27-2014, 12:37 AM
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Am I the only one in the dark that has never realized that LG makes a PLM 20000Q amp? Or is it some what new?

http://labgruppen.com/products/plm_series_touring/

I thought the 10K and 14K were their top 2 & 4 channel dogs.

Sorry to get off topic, but I'm just wondering why Sanway hasn't gotten their paws on trying to make a FP 20000 clone?

4,400 watts x 4 @ 4ohm sounds nice... But it obvously would eat up every bit of a 220v 30a line...and more I'm sure (someone math check me?).

Thing is a beast!

 

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post #4603 of 4619 Old 07-27-2014, 12:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Troglidite View Post
[QUOTE
Can anyone remind me again how easy it is to change an amp from 110v to 220v?

I spoke to Sanway and they provided me with the attached diagram (sorry I can't post a regular picture because I am at work). Is this diagram really just telling me to resolder one position on the board and replace a fuse? Is it really that easy?


I made a drawing from popalock thumbnail from Sanway showing the transformer windings which to me makes it clearer. That drawing from Sanway is really a big help for anyone who wants to change from 110 volts ac to 220 volts ac, and it should work! I had a feeling that there was a way to rewire some jumpers and change the fuse to change the voltage from 110v to 220 v or 220v to 110v. Thank you papalock for sharing this with us!

[/QUOTE] Can anyone remind me again how easy it is to change an amp from 110v to 220v?




as easy as plugging your as# into a different outlet and see what happens! sorry J/K

Pre-Pro: Emotiva UMC-1, DSP: Mini DSP 2x4 balanced
Amplifier: Sunfire TGA7400, Lab Gruppen FP10000Q
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post #4604 of 4619 Old 07-27-2014, 01:26 AM
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They have had the 20Q out for a little while. I talked to Johnson about a year or so ago and they talked about clone that one also. Unfortunately it never happened yet, I dont believe.


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post #4605 of 4619 Old 07-27-2014, 01:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lbrown105 View Post
as easy as plugging your as# into a different outlet and see what happens! sorry J/K
Ha! I think we all remember what happened to me last time I thought I had an easy fix on my hands.


 

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post #4606 of 4619 Old 07-27-2014, 05:08 AM
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That looked scary Pop.


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post #4607 of 4619 Old 07-27-2014, 08:02 AM
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^^yikes!

Pre-Pro: Emotiva UMC-1, DSP: Mini DSP 2x4 balanced
Amplifier: Sunfire TGA7400, Lab Gruppen FP10000Q
Speakers: JTR Noesis 212HT (LCR), JTR Slant 8's (surrounds), 3 Orbit Shifter LFU's
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post #4608 of 4619 Old 07-27-2014, 08:12 AM
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POP goes the Sanway ...
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"Well, la di fricken da."!
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post #4609 of 4619 Old 07-27-2014, 10:52 AM
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What happened next Pop? Is it garbage or what?
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post #4610 of 4619 Old 07-27-2014, 12:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by audiovideoholic View Post
What happened next Pop? Is it garbage or what?
Oh, that was an old old video. The first Clone I bought had a few problems (as you can tell from the vid). I forget exactly what I blew up, but the next step I took was purchasing a replacement amp board ($180 shipped) for Channel 2 of the amp. Just had to unsolder and re-solder at 3-4 points and I was back up and running. The amp would still oscillate on me at startup for a few secs, but after it warmed up I could beat on it pretty good without any issues...or so I thought.

After the repair I think I got another good 6 months of use out of it before it finally shard the bed. One day I turned it on and it would not stop oscillating.

Had a friend stop by (#NathanJ) and we measured the voltage and adjusted the pots. We got it to stabalize right at 190v, then we put a 4 ohm load to it and measured as played a very minimal signal... No matter how low of a signal it was (low volume) we would just sit back and watch the voltage continually drop until it it about 95v then it would start to oscillate again. When we cut the signal to the amp (mute) we would watch the voltage start to ssslllooowwwllly creep back up to 190v. I think we derermined it was the power supply because several caps were damaged and a few bled out...

I wouldn't say it's garbage. I just need to learn a bit more about repair and I'm sure I could fix it. It's more annoying than anything. It will be in storage for 2 years just waiting for me to come back to give it the TLC it deserves.
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post #4611 of 4619 Old 08-02-2014, 06:19 AM
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Cool Fan mod 2.0

Been meaning to put this up for a while....

Just noticed the time-stamp on the photos, indicating I did this a year ago almost to the day.
There was some talk about the fan grill creating turbulence and increasing the noise factor.
I decided since I was replacing the fans I might as well try and remove any turbulence...

Things I remember

1 - Taking the fan holder out is a major pain. You have to practically take the whole amp apart. Crappy design (mods done to mitigate issues)
2 - The power cable needs to be removed - as in un-soldered from the amp
3 - Don't remove the bottom row of grill squares on the 80mm fans - it adds some strength to the part. Mine is fine but somewhat wobbly.



I used a small hand held grinder to cut away the metal. Go slowly and carefully and you should come away with minimal nics on the frame

Front - Post Lipo



Rear - Post Lipo



The frame attaches at 4 different points to the main boards. Look at the bottom slots on the before picture. These are a nightmare to get in and out.
The middles ones are the worst so they had to go.




I then gave it two coats of metal paint










Here you will notice I cut a grove to allow the power cable to remain attached should I ever want to remove the fan holder again.


Last edited by Nuno C; 08-28-2014 at 10:04 AM.
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post #4612 of 4619 Old 08-02-2014, 06:55 AM
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Fan mod 2.0

I noticed that there might be space for a 25mm deep 60mm fan so I ordered two.

Sadly the one fits perfectly but the other is just too big.




If I recall correctly the caps need to move like 5-8mm back and you can fit in a quieter and better 25mm deep vs 15mm deep fan.





From my PC building world I had some silicon fan holders.





They also needed a trim in order to fit however





It is a REALLY tight squeeze but it does fit





I then used silicon holders for all the fans and this is the final product




As for total noise I got a resistor on the 60/15mm fan and it is by far the noisiest fan. Without it the unit is dead quiet, with it I can only hear the unit without any ambient noise.

You could get much better cooling and quieter operation if only Sanway redesigned the fan holder and moved those two caps.

I have actually done a FAN MOD 3.0 with 4x 120mm fans which has been running for a few months but need to take some pictures.
I would love to see a unit with 3x 90mm (25mm deep) fans with open mesh on the side panels - Sanway Cool and Quiet Series anyone???
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post #4613 of 4619 Old 08-02-2014, 10:38 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nuno C View Post
I would love to see a unit with 3x 90mm (25mm deep) fans with open mesh on the side panels - Sanway Cool and Quiet Series anyone???
Side panels aren't always useful, especially if the unit is designed for front to back airflow. These are made to be rack mounted. Either way, interesting post. Larger fans in the center could make these really quiet.


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post #4614 of 4619 Old 08-05-2014, 07:00 PM
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Har anyone tried running horns/midrange with Sanway's FP10000Q? How does it sound?

I'd like to do fully active crossover for my 4-way JBL 4343B's but that would require 8 channels. With a couple of FP10kQ I'd have it, but it needs to sound good too.

DAC/Preamp: miniDSP 4x10 HD and Mytek 192 Stereo DSD DAC
Speakers: JBL 4343B, JBL 4430 and JBL 120Ti
Amplifiers: Emotiva XPR-1, Denon POA 1500, QSC GX5 and Sanway's LabGruppen FP14000 clone
Sub: DIY LMS Ultra 5400
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post #4615 of 4619 Old 08-10-2014, 06:57 PM
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Loose coils on board causes severe arcing at high power.
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post #4616 of 4619 Old 08-24-2014, 05:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GizzeGutten View Post
Har anyone tried running horns/midrange with Sanway's FP10000Q? How does it sound?

I'd like to do fully active crossover for my 4-way JBL 4343B's but that would require 8 channels. With a couple of FP10kQ I'd have it, but it needs to sound good too.
I've been running Turbosound TSE111 Mid-Hi's active with the FP1000Q *albeit at very low power levels.

The sound is very good, although possibly a bit "sterile" compared to a MOSFET amp that I'm used to.

It is very clean with no noise but it does lack some of the warmth that an old MOSFET amp provides.
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post #4617 of 4619 Old 08-28-2014, 06:13 AM
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Anyone in the UK selling (or buying) Sanway FP10000Q in any condition?
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Reply DIY Speakers and Subs

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Gear in this thread - 10000q by PriceGrabber.com

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