Lab Gruppen FP14000 clone amplifiers - Page 178 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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Old 01-08-2016, 04:29 PM
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It's on a 20 amp at the moment. I'm in Florida so I have to wait for a cool day to run two more lines. 20 was enough for what I had before. The Crowns are on the power sequencer, not sure how Im going to get these clones on a trigger. The Furmans only good for 15 amps. Going to have to find another solution. Still moving stuff around in the rack, had to stop for dinner.
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Old 01-08-2016, 05:00 PM
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You could build switched outlet boxes and use a switched 12v trigger from somewhere to turn them on. Here's what I did, which is just my version of what many have done before me.
DIY 12-volt switched AC outlet


My plan has changed a little from what I describe in the thread (if I got down in the weeds in my thread...I can't remember). I will also have 5 XLS1500's for the LCR/surrounds. I added a Panamax 5300 which has sequential outlet turn on to switch those.


Hope this helps.
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Old 01-08-2016, 06:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by notnyt View Post
Wait till you turn them up

Yessir!! You told me so, and yeah it's a huge difference, especially on the low end. You really had to crank it to get the lows, this thing just has the power to bring it out at regular listening levels. You could tell when the crowns were giving up, and this thing doesn't even break a sweat.

The SI's are pretty stout too, my walls start breaking up before they do.
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Old 01-09-2016, 03:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evoryder View Post
Im getting a headache from the crazy loud fans even at idle they are loud.. 71db at 3 feet with my Iphone, not sure how accurate it is.
It isn't accurate, two would be 50db @ 3ft.

As for power:
Up to the -10db LED... that is only 10% power.

So... 90% of the FP's power is produced on the -4db LED.

How far have you cranked it?
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Old 01-09-2016, 03:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BassThatHz View Post
It isn't accurate, two would be 50db @ 3ft.

As for power:
Up to the -10db LED... that is only 10% power.

So... 90% of the FP's power is produced on the -4db LED.

How far have you cranked it?
90%? Wouldn't -3db be the 50% mark?
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Old 01-09-2016, 03:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ronny31 View Post
90%? Wouldn't -3db be the 50% mark?
All the details of operating range of the LED's for the 2015 FP14k were tested here:
2015 FP14000 clone measurements

4-ohms:
4.5V RMS @ Sig Detect, Lit
6.0V RMS @ Sig Detect, Solid
9.0V RMS @ -20db, Solid
15.0V RMS @ -15db, Solid
30.0V RMS @ -10db, Solid
35.0V RMS @ -4db, Lit
45.0V to 60V RMS @ -4db, Solid and sustained indefinitely.
Clip LED: 77V RMS it seems, and sustained for >5 seconds.

The -4db LED has a range of about: -7db to -0.01db. Which means it covers about 80-90% of the power.

The FP14k outputs about 1.5kW RMS x2 forever (30a breaker required), the other 2.9kW x2 is only reachable as burst-power (when the capacitors are fully charged and not being drained by heavy continuous bass.)
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Last edited by BassThatHz; 01-09-2016 at 03:54 PM.
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Old 01-09-2016, 05:22 PM
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How well would an FP10000Q run 2 LMS Ultras and an HS24? I an not necessarily looking for maximum output but trying to consolidate my 2 iNukes down to one solid amp. Also, do these amps have a turn off thump if used on a trigger?

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Old 01-09-2016, 08:04 PM
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I use my FP9000 on a triggered outlet and I don't get any thump.

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Old 01-09-2016, 10:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BassThatHz View Post
It isn't accurate, two would be 50db @ 3ft.

As for power:
Up to the -10db LED... that is only 10% power.

So... 90% of the FP's power is produced on the -4db LED.

How far have you cranked it?
Ive had the red blinking, once I saw the red I thought that was about it. I didn't look to see if red was -4 or the VPL light, I assumed red was clip. So you're saying that -4 can be steady on and it isn't pushing it too much? The subs werent making any distress noises and I know this amp should be able to push them way past the limits, but I'm trying to be careful since they are infinite baffle. At a certain point its hard to tell because my walls have garbage metal studs and they make alot of noise. That's one of the reasons I'm thinking of switching to enclosures.

It is definitely louder and I see now it was under powered before, I didn't think there was much left in the setup. That is why I bought 10 more subs, now I'm realizing I probably didn't need that many, I just needed bigger amps and a few more speakers.

I finished moving components around and have everything wired up and tied up, looks real nice. Tomorrow I can play with it some more.
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Old 01-10-2016, 07:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evoryder View Post
Ive had the red blinking, once I saw the red I thought that was about it. I didn't look to see if red was -4 or the VPL light, I assumed red was clip. So you're saying that -4 can be steady on and it isn't pushing it too much? The subs werent making any distress noises and I know this amp should be able to push them way past the limits, but I'm trying to be careful since they are infinite baffle. At a certain point its hard to tell because my walls have garbage metal studs and they make alot of noise. That's one of the reasons I'm thinking of switching to enclosures.

It is definitely louder and I see now it was under powered before, I didn't think there was much left in the setup. That is why I bought 10 more subs, now I'm realizing I probably didn't need that many, I just needed bigger amps and a few more speakers.

I finished moving components around and have everything wired up and tied up, looks real nice. Tomorrow I can play with it some more.
Anything other than green is bad.

The VPL is the orange clip light *if* you set it to 195V, otherwise it is just the hard-limiter light (it is still clipping but it won't hurt the amp, it could hurt the speakers though...)

The CPL is similar to the VPL, but for current clipping instead of voltage clipping. Basically it means low-impedance played too loudly. (Orange, I think.)
CPL is worst than VPL, the amplifiers lifespan will be shortened if you see it often over the years. (Very common to see this LED at single-digit bass.)

I believe the Mute and Thermal LED's are red. Which are shutdown-protection circuits activating. (The amp is *trying* to protect itself from death.)

The VHF is for tweeters (I believe it is red?), it is for people pushing 10kW worth of tweeters in a rock concert. Moot for home users.

Last edited by BassThatHz; 01-10-2016 at 08:00 AM.
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Old 01-10-2016, 09:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mixdoctor View Post
How well would an FP10000Q run 2 LMS Ultras and an HS24? I an not necessarily looking for maximum output but trying to consolidate my 2 iNukes down to one solid amp. Also, do these amps have a turn off thump if used on a trigger?
A 30 amp outlet might be necessary to be able to get the most out of the amp. I have mine on a switch and theres no thump turning on or off.

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Old 01-10-2016, 09:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mixdoctor View Post
How well would an FP10000Q run 2 LMS Ultras and an HS24? I an not necessarily looking for maximum output but trying to consolidate my 2 iNukes down to one solid amp. Also, do these amps have a turn off thump if used on a trigger?
Works for me.

I'm in the process of building a 240amp relay controller system. To handle 8 30amp@120V clone amps.
However I'm using 8 $80 50a sold-state Omega relays, which have a 0X-ing feature. For that price it better WORK!!!


4 of them per box.



I wrote the software to control them wirelessly via wifi, LAN, or mobile LTE / wired internet.

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Old 01-10-2016, 11:01 AM
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BassThatHz, Arnold, Al Gore is monitoring your carbon footprint, lol.
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Old 01-10-2016, 12:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bouf0010 View Post
A 30 amp outlet might be necessary to be able to get the most out of the amp. I have mine on a switch and theres no thump turning on or off.

Sent from my SM-G925W8 using Tapatalk
Right now I am on a 15amp line with all of my stuff and I have never tripped the breaker. I can move this to my 20amp circuit, but since I am am in a rental. I cannot modify my circuit.

Quote:
Originally Posted by BassThatHz View Post
Works for me.

I'm in the process of building a 240amp relay controller system. To handle 8 30amp@120V clone amps.
However I'm using 8 $80 50a sold-state Omega relays, which have a 0X-ing feature. For that price it better WORK!!!
I will just use my Belkin PF60 to trigger the amp.

Question can I bridge channel 3&4 for the HS24 while using channels 1&2 for my LMS Ultra's or do both channels have to be bridged? How difficult is it to change the fans?

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Last edited by Mixdoctor; 01-10-2016 at 12:08 PM.
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Old 01-10-2016, 12:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mixdoctor View Post
Right now I am on a 15amp line with all of my stuff and I have never tripped the breaker. I can move this to my 20amp circuit, but since I am am in a rental. I cannot modify my circuit.



I will just use my Belkin PF60 to trigger the amp.

Question can I bridge channel 3&4 for the HS24 while using channels 1&2 for my LMS Ultra's or do both channels have to be bridged? How difficult is it to change the fans?
Looks like you can choose if you want to bridge just 2 and run the other 2 separately


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Old 01-10-2016, 12:14 PM
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The OP describes in great detail how to swap the fans in the beginning of the thread...

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Old 01-10-2016, 12:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by INDY27 View Post
The OP describes in great detail how to swap the fans in the beginning of the thread...

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Saw that, but Notnyt is an expert at this. Want to know how easy it is for us mere mortals to change/quiet the fans..

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Old 01-10-2016, 12:25 PM - Thread Starter
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apparently the new ones use rubber connectors on the bottom, so the hardest part to reach is now easy. If you can solder, you can change the fans.
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Old 01-10-2016, 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by notnyt View Post
apparently the new ones use rubber connectors on the bottom, so the hardest part to reach is now easy. If you can solder, you can change the fans.

Thanks, I can do that no problem, just that when I saw you had to bend a screwdriver to get to some of the screws......I said.....Oh boy might not be able to do that.

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Old 01-10-2016, 03:58 PM
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Has anyone swapped the fans on these new ones yet? Sanway revised the cooling on the new ones. Think someone just said it was just one more fan in there. I have no clue.

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Old 01-10-2016, 09:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BassThatHz View Post
Works for me.

I'm in the process of building a 240amp relay controller system. To handle 8 30amp@120V clone amps.
However I'm using 8 $80 50a sold-state Omega relays, which have a 0X-ing feature. For that price it better WORK!!!
You're scaring me.
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Old 01-10-2016, 09:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Iron Maiden View Post
Has anyone swapped the fans on these new ones yet? Sanway revised the cooling on the new ones. Think someone just said it was just one more fan in there. I have no clue.
Newer models all appear to have 5 fans instead of 4. Both 10K and 14K so far.
The newer models don't have lower screws. Just tabs to hold in the base of the fans, they slip in and work at the base. 2 screws at the top of the fan.
To get more fan flow and to quiet the air a bit, on an older model I took out the metal center fan/ cable holder and cut out the fan grills. Got the idea from someone before me... Doing so did not seem to compromise the amp chassis at all. It is still working well over a year later. Love the 14K for pushing two sealed FTW-21s! They match up well and with the new fans are quiet from 8 feet away. Older projector is louder on ultra quiet scenes. No issue for music at all.
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Old 01-11-2016, 04:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpinMonster View Post
You're scaring me.
Well technically those relays can handle 280v @ 50a, so you could run 3 FP14k's off each relay if you use the 240V model (3 x 15a = 45a).
So you could scale up 24 FP14k's if you really needed to!!!

You just plug the 240V@15a clones in and give the relay 240V instead of 120V, and BAM it just works!
No kill like overkill.

Of course, you'd also have to upgrade to a 400amp service to make such a beast work, but technically it is do-able.

That would also require using 8 20a quad-sockets instead of the dually I'm using,
and you'd need 4 10awg wires x8 rather than just the 2 10awg x8 I'm using!

240V version of this.

and you'd need to use 8 50a input cables (rather than the 8 30a cables I'm using!)


Still scared? You should be!
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Old 01-11-2016, 02:12 PM
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Old 01-11-2016, 03:48 PM
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Still scared? You should be!
Psshhh! Guys like us....

...we're just getting started.
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Old 01-11-2016, 08:05 PM
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...we're just getting started.
That's right, you tell 'em!

If this is the system I have now... just wait until I reach my mid-life crisis mode in a few decades from now.

Saving for retirement? Nah dude... I plan on dying of bass at an early age. The first one to hit 193db wins. YOLO!
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Old 01-12-2016, 03:58 AM
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That would be much easier in a car than a house! Still no easy task, but its definitely worth a try
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Old 01-12-2016, 06:00 PM
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can someone post a a picture of where to set the dipswitches for 2 lms ultras. thanx in advance
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Old 01-13-2016, 11:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edoggrc51 View Post
Quote: Originally Posted by cubalis2

Even though we could possibly boost the low end back up through eq, and our systems could handle it, there is no one here who would do it (KW maybe being an exception, RIP)..

Don't let Beast or Popalock see this.

Forgive me guys I'm reading through this whole thread still, just hit 100. In talking about creating bass on tracks where there isn't much lfe. Didn't Audiocontrol create the Epicenter to do just that?
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Old 01-13-2016, 01:49 PM
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I used to be a dealer for Audio Control. Still have a couple custom pieces I got from them. One is an Epicenter. I only knew them to offer it for car audio use. Don't think it was built into any of their home audio gear. Maybe that has changed.
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