Lab Gruppen FP14000 clone amplifiers - Page 48 - AVS Forum
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Old 05-08-2012, 03:32 PM
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Originally Posted by winny32 View Post

As I can remember someone before has some troubles with sanway fp7000.

But still no one problem with FP14k (not counting problems with 110V/220V), or anyone?

My 14000 showed up with a fan that was falling apart( replaced it anyway), and a loose screw rattling around inside the amp. Has performed ok though. Johnson said it was due to "unpolite transportation". Lol
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Old 05-08-2012, 07:02 PM
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It is funny how many posters have signed up this month and have less than 10 posts have appeared lately. They all seem to have amps that have blown up or malfunctioned in some way or another. Doesn't anyone else find that odd?
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Old 05-08-2012, 07:53 PM
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I was thinking the same thing. But like I said it worked for Bosso and Not that is all I need. PLUS Not was kind enough to show us enough pics that we could all fix our own product with his help or others. SO they can keep posting whatever but I am still saving for my pair of 10Qs.
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Old 05-08-2012, 09:31 PM
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Originally Posted by chrapladm View Post

I was thinking the same thing. But like I said it worked for Bosso and Not that is all I need. PLUS Not was kind enough to show us enough pics that we could all fix our own product with his help or others. SO they can keep posting whatever but I am still saving for my pair of 10Qs.

My 10q worked fine, I have a 14k sitting in the box but will power it up soon!

AVR-Yamaha A830
amps-5 Adcom 555 in 850 watt monoblock mode
sub amp-Sanway FP14K
LCR-Dual stacked BFM DR-250's
Surrounds- Dual stacked BFM W10's
subs-12 SI 18's ported 6hz.
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Old 05-08-2012, 09:44 PM
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Kick A MK. Your thread has ben a huge help also. I am just wanting 1000 things and can only afford 2. LOL
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Old 05-08-2012, 10:04 PM
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I am just wanting 1000 things and can only afford 2. LOL

Story of my life.

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Old 05-09-2012, 07:10 AM
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My two fp14k's are still running strong
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Old 05-09-2012, 07:22 AM
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I have some sub porn for you guys. My whole theater floor from screen to seats are filled with drivers and wood! I need to take better pics as my cell phone is hard to upload here.

AVR-Yamaha A830
amps-5 Adcom 555 in 850 watt monoblock mode
sub amp-Sanway FP14K
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Old 05-09-2012, 07:39 AM
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Any pic of that will do!
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Old 05-09-2012, 08:27 AM
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Dont tease us MK....LOL
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Old 05-09-2012, 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by chrapladm View Post

Dont tease us MK....LOL

My only pics are in my iphone and I don't have the computer cable with me. Can I upload to photobucket from my iphone? I don't have the newest version yet for the app.

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amps-5 Adcom 555 in 850 watt monoblock mode
sub amp-Sanway FP14K
LCR-Dual stacked BFM DR-250's
Surrounds- Dual stacked BFM W10's
subs-12 SI 18's ported 6hz.
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Old 05-09-2012, 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by MKtheater View Post

My only pics are in my iphone and I don't have the computer cable with me. Can I upload to photobucket from my iphone? I don't have the newest version yet for the app.

Yeah you can upload directly from your iphone to photobucket via their app. I post most my pictures that way.
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Old 05-10-2012, 10:13 PM
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Originally Posted by MKtheater View Post

My only pics are in my iphone and I don't have the computer cable with me. Can I upload to photobucket from my iphone? I don't have the newest version yet for the app.

You could always email yourself the pics.
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Old 05-12-2012, 10:42 AM
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This is such a big thread!

I'm considering a pair of these FP14000. 2.8ohm limit means you will never get more than 10000W RMS, which is a pity, although it should be enough for majority of users. The amp is still quite a bargain.

I need the 240V version for Europe. If i understand correcly, I should ask them to install the correct 15A fuses before shipping. Anything else? I read that you can get quieter fans, but I doubt even those will be quiet enough for my needs. I need top notch fans and maybe some resistors to slow them down...

Regards / Z
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Old 05-12-2012, 08:04 PM
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I think 10000watts should be fine for you. If people really need the full specs of a LG they could buy the real LG.

I think Not has shown how quiet these amps can be and if you need them to be even more quiet then you need a stand alone rack some where away from your ears.

I think they are all made 240Vac. You just have to specify if you want a 110vac version. But that being said I am sure someone wil respond with more info for you.
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Old 05-12-2012, 09:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zerver View Post

This is such a big thread!

I'm considering a pair of these FP14000. 2.8ohm limit means you will never get more than 10000W RMS, which is a pity, although it should be enough for majority of users. The amp is still quite a bargain.

First off it is burst not RMS.

Secondly, there is no need to have 10kW's going to a single cone; 2 cones minimum on such output; otherwise it will do nothing but idle along 99% of the time with tonnes of voicecoil heat generated and when something big hits it will destroy the cone. I know, I've tried it... (not with this amp) and it is very very risky business!!! Makes a good idea it does not.

~1-2kW true RMS with bursts into ~4k is more than enough for a single cone to absorb.

What cones you running that requires such thing?
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Old 05-13-2012, 10:35 AM
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The real LG are definitely 14kW RMS. But it is true that the burst capability is more important, you want the extra headroom for transients. It is nearly impossible to find any music that does a constant high RMS output. Possibly with some bass testing tracks.

Typical music containing 1000W bursts will only have an RMS power of ~100W. How much the cone will tolerate depends on what the bursts look like, and the duration. You can feed 100kW even to small cone for a fraction of a second. It is called P.M.P.O.
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Old 05-13-2012, 01:29 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zerver View Post

The real LG are definitely 14kW RMS.

Spoken like someone without basic understanding of electronics. Please inform me how something that is fused at 16a with 240v can produce 14,000 watts consistently. Here's a hint, you want to use Ohm's law for this. The real LG's are rated the same ways as the clones. The only real difference you'll find is that the clones lack network support and the components aren't quite as good, which keeps it from performing down to 2 ohms.

As for basic laws of electronics, W = V * I, so 240v at 16 amps is 3840 watts. Even using this basic formula like this is erring on the side of a higher power rating, as RMS, root mean square, would produce a lower number. Even though the electronics can pull more amperage through the circuits temporarily without blowing fuses, it cannot sustain higher than that for a length of time without blowing its own internal fuses.
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Old 05-13-2012, 01:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by notnyt View Post

Spoken like someone without basic understanding of electronics. Please inform me how something that is fused at 16a with 240v can produce 14,000 watts consistently. Here's a hint, you want to use Ohm's law for this. The real LG's are rated the same ways as the clones. The only real difference you'll find is that the clones lack network support and the components aren't quite as good, which keeps it from performing down to 2 ohms.

As for basic laws of electronics, W = V * I, so 240v at 16 amps is 3840 watts. Even using this basic formula like this is erring on the side of a higher power rating, as RMS, root mean square, would produce a lower number. Even though the electronics can pull more amperage through the circuits temporarily without blowing fuses, it cannot sustain higher than that for a length of time without blowing its own internal fuses.

magic !
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Old 05-13-2012, 02:23 PM
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something else to think about is if the amp is 80% efficient @ 10000 watts that's 2k watts of heat to dissipate through some small heatsinks and a few fans = dead amp.
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Old 05-13-2012, 02:57 PM
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3840 * 0.5 * 0.9 (90% efficiency)... gives ~384watts of heat and 2 channels of ~1728watts long-term at the 16a fuse blow point.

3840 * 0.5 * 0.8 (80% efficiency)... gives ~768watts of heat and 2 channels of ~1536watts long-term at the 16a fuse blow point.
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Old 05-13-2012, 04:57 PM
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Originally Posted by notnyt View Post

Spoken like someone without basic understanding of electronics. Please inform me how something that is fused at 16a with 240v can produce 14,000 watts consistently. Here's a hint, you want to use Ohm's law for this. The real LG's are rated the same ways as the clones. The only real difference you'll find is that the clones lack network support and the components aren't quite as good, which keeps it from performing down to 2 ohms.

As for basic laws of electronics, W = V * I, so 240v at 16 amps is 3840 watts. Even using this basic formula like this is erring on the side of a higher power rating, as RMS, root mean square, would produce a lower number. Even though the electronics can pull more amperage through the circuits temporarily without blowing fuses, it cannot sustain higher than that for a length of time without blowing its own internal fuses.

Dont most people here only have 120v 15amp outlets? (like me) so i'd be bottlenecking the performance out of an LG clone?

Max i could sustain is about 2000 watts? What peaks could it sustain? More because of the capacitors?
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Old 05-13-2012, 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by omegaslast View Post

Dont most people here only have 120v 15amp outlets? (like me) so i'd be bottlenecking the performance out of an LG clone?

Max i could sustain is about 2000 watts? What peaks could it sustain? More because of the capacitors?

Capacitors mostly help with line-sag and burst power.
Once they are totally drained (which isn't long) they actually "consume" power off the line, making the efficiency that much worse.



If you aren't poping breakers yet or clipping it, then you should be ok and thus don't need a bigger line.

120 * 15 would be 1800w
1800 * 0.5 * 0.9 = 180w heat, 2ch of 810w
1800 * 0.5 * 0.8 = 360w heat, 2ch of 720w
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Old 05-13-2012, 05:40 PM
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Originally Posted by BassThatHz View Post

Capacitors mostly help with line-sag and burst power.
Once they are totally drained (which isn't long) they actually "consume" power off the line, making the efficiency that much worse.



If you aren't poping breakers yet or clipping it, then you should be ok and thus don't need a bigger line.

120 * 15 would be 1800w
1800 * 0.5 * 0.9 = 180w heat, 2ch of 810w
1800 * 0.5 * 0.8 = 360w heat, 2ch of 720w

I have a behringer ep2500 and im trying to figure out if it would be worth it to upgrade to an LG clone, but i dont have the funds to run a 240v outlet. Im clueless when it comes to the math behind power.. might pick up a used ashly KLR3200 if thats all i can use anyways.
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Old 05-13-2012, 05:57 PM
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u can buy it as 120v

all u would really need is a lower awg wire ran and the breaker replaced.
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Old 05-13-2012, 06:32 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by omegaslast View Post

Dont most people here only have 120v 15amp outlets? (like me) so i'd be bottlenecking the performance out of an LG clone?

Max i could sustain is about 2000 watts? What peaks could it sustain? More because of the capacitors?

This is why I ran 10 gauge wire and use 30a breakers.
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Old 05-13-2012, 06:52 PM
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Home theater is on the second floor, i dont think its conceivable to run 10awg to the breaker box.
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Old 05-13-2012, 08:14 PM
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I ran 10 gauge and 20 amp breakers. I have 8 20 amp circuits for the theater. My FP14k is on one of them.

AVR-Yamaha A830
amps-5 Adcom 555 in 850 watt monoblock mode
sub amp-Sanway FP14K
LCR-Dual stacked BFM DR-250's
Surrounds- Dual stacked BFM W10's
subs-12 SI 18's ported 6hz.
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Old 05-14-2012, 08:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by notnyt View Post

This is why I ran 10 gauge wire and use 30a breakers.

I did the same, Im still running the 110v version with the normal plug though. Didnt you modify your plug or something Not?

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Old 05-14-2012, 08:13 AM - Thread Starter
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I did the same, Im still running the 110v version with the normal plug though. Didnt you modify your plug or something Not?

Nope, not really a point to it.
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