Building a Dinner Theater w/ DIY Speakers, Subs, etc... - Page 10 - AVS Forum
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post #271 of 585 Old 05-03-2012, 07:35 PM - Thread Starter
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What is the ideal amount of space between the 4pi speakers and the back of the AT screen? I am designing the baffle wall.
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post #272 of 585 Old 05-03-2012, 08:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dutchswan0311 View Post

What is the ideal amount of space between the 4pi speakers and the back of the AT screen? I am designing the baffle wall.

This is what Seymour AV recommends:

You can place the speakers up to approximately one inch from the screen surface, as long as you don't have ports with high velocity airflow. The deeper the bass that the speakers behind the screen are reproducing, the more you space you should give between them and the screen. You can place a subwoofer behind the screen as long as it is spaced at least 6 inches away and no ports are directed at the screen.
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post #273 of 585 Old 05-04-2012, 07:38 PM - Thread Starter
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post #274 of 585 Old 05-04-2012, 07:56 PM
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Very nice...

JSS
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post #275 of 585 Old 05-08-2012, 06:24 AM - Thread Starter
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Quick Question:

Up until this point, I have had one sub pre-out on the AVR connected to Channel 1 on an XLS1000 amp, and the other sub pre-out connected to Channel 2. Assuming the AVR is putting out the ideal 1.4V from each of the sub pre-outs, we can assume no adjustment was needed for the amp to get the juice it needed.

Now that I am working on the other two F20s, I changed the configuration on the AVR to having one of the sub pre-outs connected to both Channel 1 & 2 on the XLS1000 using a Y adapter. May I assume that the 1.4V from the single sub pre-out is now being split, and in fact only 0.7V is making it to each of the two channels on the amp? If so, do I need to double the voltage on each of the two sub pre-outs on the AVR to acommodate the 4 subs?
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post #276 of 585 Old 05-08-2012, 06:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dutchswan0311 View Post

Quick Question:

Up until this point, I have had one sub pre-out on the AVR connected to Channel 1 on an XLS1000 amp, and the other sub pre-out connected to Channel 2. Assuming the AVR is putting out the ideal 1.4V from each of the sub pre-outs, we can assume no adjustment was needed for the amp to get the juice it needed.

Now that I am working on the other two F20s, I changed the configuration on the AVR to having one of the sub pre-outs connected to both Channel 1 & 2 on the XLS1000 using a Y adapter. May I assume that the 1.4V from the single sub pre-out is now being split, and in fact only 0.7V is making it to each of the two channels on the amp? If so, do I need to double the voltage on each of the two sub pre-outs on the AVR to acommodate the 4 subs?

Nope, using a splitter keeps the voltage at 1.4V yet but gives half the impedance on the output of the receiver. You have nothing to worry about.
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post #277 of 585 Old 05-08-2012, 06:49 AM - Thread Starter
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@tsloms: So you are saying that the impedance behing halfed means that each channel on the amp only needs 0.7V in order to achieve the same output level? Which means its kind of like wiring the two subs in series at the AVR/AMP level instead of at the speaker level?
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post #278 of 585 Old 05-08-2012, 06:53 AM
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The drive signal is still 1.4V that the receiver puts out. Each amp in parallel will receive the full 1.4V. The amp still needs its full signal to give full output.

This only becomes a problem with low impedance inputs on too many amps in parallel together. Pro audio amps should have a rather high impedance input anyways so this should not be an issue at all even with several in parallel.
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post #279 of 585 Old 05-08-2012, 09:54 AM - Thread Starter
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Just a couple of things:

1) I have updated the first page with additional pictures.
2) I am designing the baffle wall, which also includes speaker placement and configuration. The diagrams below are what I have so far. Please feel free to critique.



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post #280 of 585 Old 05-08-2012, 11:28 AM
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remind me which PJ you are using?? You're going to need a light CANNON if you are planning on going that big from 28 feet.

(European models do not accept banana plugs.)

 

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post #281 of 585 Old 05-08-2012, 11:52 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post

remind me which PJ you are using?? You're going to need a light CANNON if you are planning on going that big from 28 feet.

I was looking at the BenQ SH960. I have a budget of $5,000 for the projector. I hope I am not going to have issues with making an image that SMALL from 28'...the throw ratio of the SH960 seems like the smallest picture will fit the 190" screen exactly?

Edit: Ah a light "cannon". I thought you were talking about a Canon projector that didn't weigh very much lol. I believe the SH960 is 6,000 lumens? I believe the equation is when you double the distance you quadruple the "dimness" of the image? If so, that would be the equivalent of 1,500 Lumens at 14ft, which sounds reasonable to me?
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post #282 of 585 Old 05-08-2012, 01:23 PM
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yep, that should be sufficient even with some ambient lighting!

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post #283 of 585 Old 05-08-2012, 01:59 PM
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Check here:

http://www.projectorcentral.com/BenQ...ulator-pro.htm

Sometimes using a narrower, 'zoomed out' beam can cause vignetting problems, robbing lumens, or more accurately, foot-lamberts.

JSS
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post #284 of 585 Old 05-08-2012, 07:42 PM
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itd be cool to see some of the building progress too, like the room itself.
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post #285 of 585 Old 05-08-2012, 08:17 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stormwind13 View Post

itd be cool to see some of the building progress too, like the room itself.

I did update the exterior picture, but you are right; I haven't really provided anyone here contextual pictures of the interior space. I have been spending most of my time running the electrical cables, speaker wires, and DMX cables, so the "ball room" has not changes much in terms of construction. I do hope to be building the baffle wall in the next couple of weeks, as I am nearly finished with the electricity (there was much to learn in that field as well). I will take some pictures this weekend for everyone to see the progress on that end as well. Thanks again to everyone for taking an interest! It has proven very helpful.
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post #286 of 585 Old 05-08-2012, 08:23 PM
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That BenQ will provide 45 foot-lamberts at 28' with a 190" screen. This means you can play the projector with an ambient light level of 31 foot-candles (measured with a light meter) at the screen. This is significant. candlelight dinners with the film playing are a possibility. Or, turn the brightness down and show the film with less ambient light.

You could even use a bigger screen (238" diagonal with 16:9 ratio) with more LCR separation.

I suggest a gray screen if you will have some ambient light.

JSS
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post #287 of 585 Old 05-08-2012, 08:56 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maxmercy View Post

That BenQ will provide 45 foot-lamberts at 28' with a 190" screen. This means you can play the projector with an ambient light level of 31 foot-candles (measured with a light meter) at the screen. This is significant. candlelight dinners with the film playing are a possibility. Or, turn the brightness down and show the film with less ambient light.

You could even use a bigger screen (238" diagonal with 16:9 ratio) with more LCR separation.

I suggest a gray screen if you will have some ambient light.

JSS

I think there will be some ambient light during most "showings" of anything. I might be able to get up to 200" or 210" ... but not much larger at 16:9. I have windows on either side of the baffle wall that will restrict screen size. Aesthetically speaking I suspect 190" is optimal. I could go 15' wide if there is no "border" around the screen. I have planned for 6" of border around the screen at this time.
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post #288 of 585 Old 05-09-2012, 07:23 AM - Thread Starter
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There was a request for some more pictures of the interior portion of our project. Until I can get more pictures taken and uploaded, I have linked to some pictures below from the past few months that can be found on the winery's facebook page. Hopefully this will provide, for those that care, additional context that might assist you in making educated recommendations to my endless questions. :-) If you wish to view the construction album in its entirety, you can also follow the link below. Yes...I know there is a lot of glass in our Dinner Theater. We will address this with heavy drapes made of a sound absorbing material.

http://www.facebook.com/#!/pages/Van...0065?sk=photos


Main Level Blueprints



Upper Level Blueprints



Lower Level Blueprints



Ballroom/Dinner Theater West Wall (Baffle to be built here)





A view of the Ballroom/Dinner Theater Main Entrance. You can see a little bit of the slightly raised stage to the right.



A view of the Ballroom/Dinner Theater South Wall



Standing at the entrance to the Ballroom/Dinner Theater entrance looking at the Balcony. This picture is about a year old.



A view of the underside of the balcony and where the intended location of the projector. The idea is to mount it in front of the balcony support just under the overhang.



Standing under the balcony on the north side looking south.



Standing at the door way between the under-balcony and the wine tasting room looking Northeast to the "Gift Shop" flanked by two restrooms.



Standing in the middle of the gift shop looking at the two handicap accessable restrooms.



Standing on the north side of the tasting room (18' x 18') looking through the wall into the kitchen (18' x 11').



Standing on the Southeast corner of the "under-balcony" looking east into the kitchen.



Standing on the west side of the fermentation room (lower level) looking at its north wall.



Standing on the Northwest corner of the "Observation Deck" looking at the windows that separate it and the fermentation room. It allows tours to view the stainless steel tanks without having access to them.
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post #289 of 585 Old 05-09-2012, 08:09 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the link max...I had been there before, but not in a while. I think I now know where I got my 190" number. I forgot to take into consideration the thickness of the bafflewall when calculating the throw distance. The most accurate number I have right now is 26' 8". Below is a screenshot of the calculations.

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post #290 of 585 Old 05-11-2012, 07:38 AM - Thread Starter
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I've purchased the wood and started throwing saw dust on the third and fourth F20s. You can also see the final four of twelve 1pis in the background. They just need a final sanding and painting. These six speakers & subs represent the last of the dinner theater's sound project.

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post #291 of 585 Old 05-11-2012, 07:54 AM
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Killer!!!

(European models do not accept banana plugs.)

 

"If you done it, it ain't bragging." ~ Walt Whitman

 


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post #292 of 585 Old 05-12-2012, 02:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dutchswan0311 View Post

Standing on the Northwest corner of the "Observation Deck" looking at the windows that separate it and the fermentation room. It allows tours to view the stainless steel tanks without having access to them.

The kid in me loves to see the shiney conicals all lined up. That'll be pretty cool.

YID DIY
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post #293 of 585 Old 05-15-2012, 10:27 AM - Thread Starter
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And then there were three...

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post #294 of 585 Old 05-15-2012, 10:55 AM
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Looking good!!!

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post #295 of 585 Old 05-15-2012, 11:13 AM
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I think when you crank that system, something is going to happen.


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post #296 of 585 Old 05-15-2012, 11:27 AM
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once done, pickup a fog machine and some lazers and you got yourself and night club. that would bring in a lot of traffic, not sure if thats going to be your target audience though.
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post #297 of 585 Old 05-15-2012, 01:39 PM
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4 F20s will throw out around 127dB + whatever you get from wall loading, possibly 6dB. Should be enough to provide 115dB (reference) at nearly 50 feet away if you get a good wall load. Not sure full reference will necessarily be needed.

JSS
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post #298 of 585 Old 05-15-2012, 09:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by datranz View Post

once done, pickup a fog machine and some lazers and you got yourself and night club. that would bring in a lot of traffic, not sure if thats going to be your target audience though.

+1

And if you stack the F20's onstage they would probably make a great center support for a couple stripper poles

Regards,
Dan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maxmercy View Post

4 F20s will throw out around 127dB + whatever you get from wall loading, possibly 6dB. Should be enough to provide 115dB (reference) at nearly 50 feet away if you get a good wall load. Not sure full reference will necessarily be needed.

JSS

I've always wondered what reference was...

 

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post #300 of 585 Old 05-20-2012, 11:34 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

I think when you crank that system, something is going to happen.

What do you mean?
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