The Othorn tapped horn - Page 4 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
Baselworld is only a few weeks away. Getting the latest news is easy, Click Here for info on how to join the Watchuseek.com newsletter list. Follow our team for updates featuring event coverage, new product unveilings, watch industry news & more!


Forum Jump: 
 10Likes
 
Thread Tools
Old 06-20-2012, 11:00 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
Ricci's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Louisville KY
Posts: 5,199
Mentioned: 22 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 102 Post(s)
Liked: 301
Quote:
Originally Posted by WiSounds View Post

Pics of the recone process please biggrin.gif

No problem. I'm interested to see under the spiders myself.

Now I just have to hurry up and vet this system so I can be ready for the local car audio SPL comp this fall.
Ricci is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 07-10-2012, 06:53 AM
Newbie
 
degasis's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2012
Posts: 1
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Great job, thanks!

Would be great if you could make some comparison measurements with some reflex enclosure...
I really wonder how much gain is there in SPL...

I think I'll make a prototype and test it...


Thank you!!
degasis is offline  
Old 07-10-2012, 07:54 AM
AVS Special Member
 
chrapladm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Adelaide, South Australia
Posts: 3,379
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 418 Post(s)
Liked: 149
I hope to see your Othorn data on your website. I am anxious to see it compared to your ported PA sub.
chrapladm is online now  
Old 10-08-2012, 05:48 PM
AVS Special Member
 
chrapladm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Adelaide, South Australia
Posts: 3,379
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 418 Post(s)
Liked: 149
Ricci did you ever get a chance to retest everything with the re-coned driver, glued driver or other?

Curious what the final results were and the pics of the BC's insides. Also didn't know what the difference was going to be with one of your 12" cutouts removed?

I at least think it was a 12" cutout that you used that may or may not have made contact with the driver.
chrapladm is online now  
Old 10-08-2012, 06:27 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
Ricci's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Louisville KY
Posts: 5,199
Mentioned: 22 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 102 Post(s)
Liked: 301
Not yet but I should get it done the next time I am out testing. On a positive note I did let a buddy borrow them for the subs at an all day festival to benefit autism and the repaired driver made it through about 10hrs without a problem. Anyway yeah I have them back together and am doing the testing next chance I get.
Ricci is offline  
Old 10-08-2012, 08:10 PM
AVS Special Member
 
chrapladm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Adelaide, South Australia
Posts: 3,379
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 418 Post(s)
Liked: 149
Awesome to hear!! Glad the driver did fine. I am still waiting for a pair of 18 Sound NLW9600C's to arrive. They are on very slow sea shipping. I am thinking about using them in a dual 18 cabinet for my L/R speaker instead of dual 15's. And since I have them I will then just use them in a TH like yours. Would be fun to play with the Othorn and a DR200 above it for music while playing at the basketball court. I still have to build your Gjallerhorn later but trying to get a woofer from Mark(UXL) is a bit of pain.
chrapladm is online now  
Old 10-15-2012, 03:37 AM
AVS Special Member
 
chrapladm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Adelaide, South Australia
Posts: 3,379
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 418 Post(s)
Liked: 149
I forgot to ask is there anything wrong with using 18mm ply for some of the bracing?

I will be using 4x8ft sheets and will have 18mm leftover. I will also have a 12mm sheet so if need be I can just use the 12mm. Didn't want to change something if it causes more harm than good. I will be using Marine plywood because it is the best value option here. $120 per sheet for the 18mm. The BB ply is hard to find and that stuff is extremely expensive here in OZ. This will be void free Marine grade hoop pine plywood.

And will you have your plans/cutsheet for the Gjallarhorn for a while?

I ask because I thought you gave it to me but I can not find the plans anywhere on my computer. I have the Othorn but that is all. I wont be able to build the Gjallarhorn until next year but with everything you do I didnt want the plans to go missing. SO I figured I would ask you.

Thanks
chrapladm is online now  
Old 10-15-2012, 08:56 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
Ricci's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Louisville KY
Posts: 5,199
Mentioned: 22 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 102 Post(s)
Liked: 301
That should be fine. The outer panels of the Othorn and the driver panel are all 18mm but the inner panels are all 12mm to conserve space and weight. Yes you can use 18mm for the bracing it will have a negligible impact on the performance. Do not skimp on the bracing of the inner and outer panels . I cannot emphasize this enough. That grade of ply should be fine as well.
Ricci is offline  
Old 10-15-2012, 09:54 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
Ricci's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Louisville KY
Posts: 5,199
Mentioned: 22 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 102 Post(s)
Liked: 301
Testing of the Othorn outdoors is complete as of last Saturday. The good news is that the driver survived without issue which tells me that the throat pyramid that I added without securing very well caused the damage/contact to the cone. I assumed this was the case but you never know. Anyway I re ran it with the previously damaged driver which I had repaired the cone on with rubberized CA glue. I will not be needing a recone as I'm not paying a couple of hundred dollars and spending a few hours on it for the cosmetic improvement. So far the repaired driver has survived an all day festival, quite a few hours of listening to it in my PA and outdoor maximum output measurements with various burst and sweep test signals at over 120volts. I'd say it is good and long term reliability shouldn't be an issue. I think this system has a really good sound to it with the large peaks present in most tapped horns pushed up well past 100Hz and the group delay and energy decay being much better than I expected. I suspect that this may be in part due to the incredible damping of the 21sw152-4 driver. I'm happy with the combination of cab size, sensitivity, output capabilities and useful extension. 25Hz is represented with real power (>122dB @ 2 meters, ground plane) and peak output potential 30-120Hz is substantial to say the least. I will have the measurements results on Data-Bass soon.
Ricci is offline  
Old 10-17-2012, 03:09 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
Ricci's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Louisville KY
Posts: 5,199
Mentioned: 22 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 102 Post(s)
Liked: 301
Here is a teaser...I should have all of the measurements public on Data-Bass by the end of the day tomorrow. This is a pants flapper...Output capabilities 25-30Hz are what I hoped they would be and the distortion performance is very good as the distortion sweeps will later show. Dropping the output 3 to 5 dB dramatically drops THD levels. At 100 and 125Hz my sound card input was being clipped a little.

This cab set the output record at 31.5,40,50,63Hz and 100Hz and tied at 125Hz. It puts up the second highest output at 80Hz and 4th highest at 25Hz.

Just for fun the 20-31.5Hz "Ultra-Low Bass AVG" rolleyes.gif would be 118.8 and the 40-63Hz "Low Bass AVG" would be 132.3 dB biggrin.gif


CEA-2010 burst output measured from 2 meters, ground plane, outdoors. (Roughly equivalent to 1m anechoic or full space).

Ricci is offline  
Old 10-17-2012, 03:54 PM
AVS Addicted Member
 
LTD02's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 18,262
Mentioned: 71 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1239 Post(s)
Liked: 1562
nice work josh.

out of curiosity i farted around with trying to fold up a horn in the same form factor and kept arriving at something similar to what you did.

have you posted this over on the prosoundweb board? maybe notch that back corner and put some casters in there, add a pole mount for the tops, and the orders should be flowing...

i mean 1 per side and you are pretty much talking mobile imax theater... :-)

Listen. It's All Good.
LTD02 is offline  
Old 10-17-2012, 04:10 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
Ricci's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Louisville KY
Posts: 5,199
Mentioned: 22 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 102 Post(s)
Liked: 301
Meh... not trying to sell anything. Anybody that wants the plans can get them and build away. A couple of guys already have. I just wanted to see how far I could push the envelope with this form factor and I wanted something nasty for my own PA. These actually sound really good too with most of the TH "wonk" pushed up past 100hz. The fun factor with a pair on a big amp is through the roof for live sound and music. tongue.gif bass lines are smooth on the bottom, kick definitely does that and electronic bass tones in the 25-35 range are thunder.
Ricci is offline  
Old 10-17-2012, 04:26 PM
AVS Addicted Member
 
LTD02's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 18,262
Mentioned: 71 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1239 Post(s)
Liked: 1562
"The fun factor with a pair on a big amp is through the roof"

i don't doubt it!

---

"Meh... not trying to sell anything."

i know, but why not? you have put together a monster cab. most folks don't have the expertise to design something like that and would be happy to pay a few bucks in order to swim in the deep end of the pool. stop hogging all the bass for yourself. :-)

Listen. It's All Good.
LTD02 is offline  
Old 10-17-2012, 08:37 PM
Bass Enabler
 
Scott Simonian's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Clovis, CA
Posts: 16,223
Mentioned: 37 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2080 Post(s)
Liked: 1760
Wooooowww! Amazing work, Josh. Crazy output!

My Dual 18" LLT subs 120dB down to 10hz ***FOR SALE***

Plan9Reloaded Co-host
Listen to the Plan9Reloaded Gaming and Technology Podcast (may contain NSFW language)
https://soundcloud.com/plan9reloaded/sets/podcast - direct pod link
http://plan9reloaded.com/site/ - main website
Scott Simonian is online now  
Old 10-17-2012, 11:29 PM
AVS Special Member
 
chrapladm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Adelaide, South Australia
Posts: 3,379
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 418 Post(s)
Liked: 149
AAARRRGGGGHHH!!!!! Decisions.

Great numbers as usual. The 21" BC is only 100 more dollars than the 18 Sound 18NLW9600 that I can get. Is the 21 worth the extra 100 dollars?

I figured I might as well buy the 21 instead. I planned on building your Gjallarhorn but can only afford to build a pair of your horns per year.. So for now I will build a pair of these. Will you ever get a chance to listen to these subs in a home theater setup?

I just wondered if these subs will hold me off from wanting more extension from the Gjallarhorn. I thought about building the G horn and using it for PA duties also but really wanted to build this smaller horn first. PLUS I think this sub would match what most commercial cinema subs can do. So these subs will probably be fine for my outdoor cinema setup also.

Its just my inner self always wanting extension. But moving the Othorn does seem more favorable. Either way thanks again for this design Ricci.
chrapladm is online now  
Old 10-18-2012, 05:34 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
Ricci's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Louisville KY
Posts: 5,199
Mentioned: 22 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 102 Post(s)
Liked: 301
Yes I think the 21 is worth it for the extra 3dB. The 18Sounds 18 or 21 will work but they have a lighter cone that is not as strong as the B&C which is heavier. Thats just what I heard from some people who have used both.

A pair would do REF playback to about 20Hz in most rooms after some gain but will have nothing below there. You will need to high pass near 20-24Hz. Above 20Hz you will have more headroom than needed under any scenario I can think of. These are really for live or club type bass where it just needs to be as loud and powerful as possible and there isnt much below 30hz. Big rooms and no defined calibration of the bass except for something like +15db and shaking your hair 30ft back. These are more powerful than the GH from 27hz up. Below there is no comparison.

"Match" most cinema subs? If that was all it was doing Id have just bought those to begin with.wink.gif
Ricci is offline  
Old 10-18-2012, 06:03 AM
AVS Special Member
 
chrapladm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Adelaide, South Australia
Posts: 3,379
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 418 Post(s)
Liked: 149
I was using "match," very loosely. I care about 3-120hz for my small private HT but for outdoor theater I have to draw the line some where.biggrin.gif So I figured I would use these smaller horns for now and then next year try and build the bigger horn. No matter what this horn for me will be outside. A pair of them with a pair of DR200's on top. Then maybe some ti,e next year I can try the G horn.

Ricci do you have any pics of your wiring?

I only ask because I never saw your speakon connection or wiring in your other pictures. And where would the best place be to add handles?

After looking at the drawing multiple times it looks like the hardest cut will be the hatch opening and cover.. I might just double that external layer to make it easier for me.
chrapladm is online now  
Old 10-18-2012, 12:18 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
Ricci's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Louisville KY
Posts: 5,199
Mentioned: 22 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 102 Post(s)
Liked: 301
Yes the hatch is a difficult cut. However you want to handle it. There is space for handles and casters cut 45 degree in the last 90deg corner, speakon jack, or even a plate amp in the back panel opposite the mouth. I just have the speakon in the back panel and about 2ft of 10ga wire connecting it to the driver. That's it really. Simple.

I forgot you were doing an outdoor theater...Yes two of these should do pretty darn good down to 25Hz outside. You won't get the low stuff but you will get plenty of level above there. As you already know you have to bring some serious firepower to get that deep stuff at distance outdoors.
Ricci is offline  
Old 10-18-2012, 12:18 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
Ricci's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Louisville KY
Posts: 5,199
Mentioned: 22 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 102 Post(s)
Liked: 301
Judging from everything so far if I were rating this cabinet it would be something like this...

Frequency Response 27.5-93Hz +/-3dB. -10dB at 24Hz (2m ground plane, quasi anechoic)
Frequency Response with Recommended Processing 30-128Hz +/-3dB. -10dB at 25Hz (2m ground plane, quasi anechoic)
1w/1m sensitivity (1.86v) 99dB 34-93Hz
Maximum output @1m: 142dB @ 125Hz, 139dB @ 63Hz, 134dB @ 31.5Hz, 128dB @ 25Hz
Min impedance 3.4 ohms
Recommended maximum amplifier power: 6000w program (140 to 145 volts)
Recommended Processing: 24Hz Butterworth 18dB/Octave high pass, BP EQ 107Hz Q10.0 -7.5dB, BP EQ 84Hz Q2.20 +2.5dB, BP EQ 44Hz Q2.80 -1.5dB
Dimensions 24x36x36"
Weight 160 lbs


Here is what the FR looks like with 3 bands of EQ a 24Hz BW 3rd order high pass and a 4th order LR 120Hz low pass.


Ricci is offline  
Old 10-18-2012, 03:06 PM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
Ricci's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Louisville KY
Posts: 5,199
Mentioned: 22 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 102 Post(s)
Liked: 301
The full set of measurements is public at Data-Bass now for anyone interested. Enjoy. smile.gif
Ricci is offline  
Old 10-19-2012, 06:11 AM
AVS Addicted Member
 
LTD02's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 18,262
Mentioned: 71 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1239 Post(s)
Liked: 1562
you are too honest with your specs mr. ricci...

put 2.83v on that sucker with a 6db crest factor signal and 107-108db "sensitivity" will appear almost as if by magic. :-)

Listen. It's All Good.
LTD02 is offline  
Old 10-19-2012, 07:26 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
Ricci's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Louisville KY
Posts: 5,199
Mentioned: 22 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 102 Post(s)
Liked: 301
108dB is that all? You have a lot to learn about specmanship. wink.gif

Shoot I can claim 101dB if I go by the small hump at 43Hz and I can claim 108dB just off of the peak at 107Hz. Let's see then we give it 2.83volts instead of 1.86 which is a gain of 3.65dB that puts us near 104.65dB at 43Hz and 111.65dB at 107Hz. Of course those decimal places should be rounded to make it look cleaner and they certainly qualify for being rounded up wink.gif so let's call it an even 112dB at 107Hz and 105dB at 43Hz.

New sensitivity specs
112dB at 107Hz
105dB at 43Hz


There that looks much better. biggrin.gif
Ricci is offline  
Old 10-19-2012, 10:42 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Oklahoma Wolf's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Eastend, SK, Canada
Posts: 1,765
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 20 Post(s)
Liked: 28
Always nice to see a tapped horn done right from initial design right up to final measurements. Well done, sir cool.gif
Oklahoma Wolf is offline  
Old 10-19-2012, 02:57 PM
Bass Enabler
 
Scott Simonian's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Clovis, CA
Posts: 16,223
Mentioned: 37 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2080 Post(s)
Liked: 1760
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricci View Post

108dB is that all? You have a lot to learn about specmanship. wink.gif
Shoot I can claim 101dB if I go by the small hump at 43Hz and I can claim 108dB just off of the peak at 107Hz. Let's see then we give it 2.83volts instead of 1.86 which is a gain of 3.65dB that puts us near 104.65dB at 43Hz and 111.65dB at 107Hz. Of course those decimal places should be rounded to make it look cleaner and they certainly qualify for being rounded up wink.gif so let's call it an even 112dB at 107Hz and 105dB at 43Hz.
New sensitivity specs
112dB at 107Hz
105dB at 43Hz

There that looks much better. biggrin.gif

Geeeeeeeezzuz!

My Dual 18" LLT subs 120dB down to 10hz ***FOR SALE***

Plan9Reloaded Co-host
Listen to the Plan9Reloaded Gaming and Technology Podcast (may contain NSFW language)
https://soundcloud.com/plan9reloaded/sets/podcast - direct pod link
http://plan9reloaded.com/site/ - main website
Scott Simonian is online now  
Old 10-19-2012, 03:27 PM
AVS Addicted Member
 
LTD02's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 18,262
Mentioned: 71 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1239 Post(s)
Liked: 1562
"You have a lot to learn about specmanship."

i'm trying. :-)

Listen. It's All Good.
LTD02 is offline  
Old 10-21-2012, 09:04 PM
Advanced Member
 
MBentz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Chicago
Posts: 952
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 24 Post(s)
Liked: 42
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricci View Post

Yes the hatch is a difficult cut. However you want to handle it.

We didn't even do a hatch on the one we built....just go to angle bracing on the front instead of the big plus sign and slide the driver in through the mouth. The cabinet actually isn't that heavy considering its size - if I were to build another one, I would remove the small flare section on the mouth exit - just so that can be a 90 degree angle and make it easier to carry. I'm not sure I could envision any handle configuration that'd make it possible for one person to carry 'cept maybe casters, but the problem with casters is they rattle crazy style if the cabinet doesn't rest on them all the time.

Anyways, this is a crazy awesome sounding cabinet...very impressed. I need to redo my measurements and then I can share some pics of the build (although there aren't many because it went together so quickly). I forgot I had changed my default windowing values in REW (to be anechoic in the gym for the tweeter measurements we've been doing). After I realized that, I never went back to get a raw un-EQ'd response. The EQ'd response we ended up with matched pretty well to Ricci's measurements on the low end - we actually ended up with a much flatter response above 80Hz though?

Speaking of which, I wonder if it doesn't make more sense to do the group delay measurements with an EQ'd cabinet instead of the raw cabinet....at least in terms of understanding how the intended design would perform. I can see doing it both ways actually so definitely not recommending changing the measurements Ricci is already taking.

I am kinda curious though how this cabinet compares against that 21" in a standard vented cabinet tuned for the same bandwidth.

-Mike Bentz
~It's all about compromise~
MBentz is offline  
Old 10-21-2012, 09:22 PM
AVS Special Member
 
chrapladm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Adelaide, South Australia
Posts: 3,379
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 418 Post(s)
Liked: 149
Mbentz are you wondering on sound quality?

Because the spl figures are up on his site. It seems like screwing in the driver to the baffle would be a bit trickier.I like that you have done it this way to know there is another option. I Will try and do it with the hatch cover. It seems like the cover will be a bit difficult to do but I can always sand it to fit. I was thinking of also putting handles on the last bend as Ricci mentioned. Still have to decide on what I am going to do and then start building.
chrapladm is online now  
Old 10-22-2012, 06:01 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
Ricci's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Louisville KY
Posts: 5,199
Mentioned: 22 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 102 Post(s)
Liked: 301
Yes you can use a couple of angled braces in the mouth and fit the driver through while bracing it. I use the bracing at the front for handles on mine which they work great for. The small angle at the lip did make a small improvement in top end sensitivity in the model which is why it is there. Leaving it out wouldnt change much. This cab with wheels and handles is easy to move by one guy. Dead lifting it into a truck is a 2 person job.

Mike I have a vented cab test done. It performs very well too. The tuning is about 25hz versus 27hz for the Othorn so the upper end would improve just slightly with a little higher tune. It is outclassed over a large chunk of bandwidth. The vented cab shows an advantage at 20Hz and a tiny 1.1 db advantage at 25hz which is right at tune. From 30- 80hz the othorn has a 5.4 db average advantage in output via Cea2010. From 25-125hz it is 4.4db. Both have very low distortion until floored.
Ricci is offline  
Old 10-22-2012, 07:20 AM
Advanced Member
 
MBentz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Chicago
Posts: 952
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 24 Post(s)
Liked: 42
Quote:
Originally Posted by chrapladm View Post

Mbentz are you wondering on sound quality?

It sounds awesome so no real doubts about sound quality. I'm just curious how much of it is the driver and how much of it is the tapped horn. Sounds like Ricci is way ahead on that.

The one question I have though is do you think the CEA2010 results correlate to the audible difference between the two? I'd be willing to give up a few dB (or run more cabs) if it meant better sound quality - the sonic difference in this case probably being in the time domain.

There was a small bit of cavernous effect to the Othorn we built, but we only noticed it with special source material - and it's at least an order of magnitude less than the other tapped horns I've played with (including the DTS-10). I don't think it'd take much to make it completely inaudible, but at what cost? Maybe a dB across the passband? This is being really nit picky though - don't wanna freak out anyone. Vented cabinets have their own artifacts too.

-Mike Bentz
~It's all about compromise~
MBentz is offline  
Old 10-22-2012, 10:03 AM - Thread Starter
AVS Special Member
 
Ricci's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Louisville KY
Posts: 5,199
Mentioned: 22 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 102 Post(s)
Liked: 301
Yep. I'd agree that this is an order of magnitude better than the other TH's I've heard too. I suspect that this artifact you've heard is related to the 107Hz peak. If you get a chance try the EQ settings that I posted which cut this peak quite a bit. wink.gif It doesn't remove it but when you knock it down 10dB in level, flattening it out compared to the rest of the bandwidth, it helps out a lot. What LPF are you using? Something steep and 100Hz or lower is best. This makes a large improvement to it.

You may also want to experiment with some strategic lining which will clean up some of the harmonics bouncing around in the empty cab too.

You will want 2 vented cabs to compare or better the output of one of these but then you have increased cost and cabinet volume. The driver is very low distortion until it is clearly driven past it's useful excursion range where distortion jumps dramatically. It is a large contributor to the clean sound. The TH sounds cleaner in the low end to my ear owing to both lower distortion and higher headroom capability, but the vented sounds cleaner up top as you would expect, both cabs are much cleaner while outputting tons of sound than most others I have heard. The Othorn is more sensitive with more headroom and leverages more out of less space. I really enjoyed my vented cabs for these drivers as well, but I prefer the extra headroom from the Othorns as everyone always seems to want more bass.

Have you leaned on it yet Mike?
Ricci is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
 
Thread Tools


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off