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post #1 of 94 Old 09-02-2011, 01:40 PM - Thread Starter
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Im in home depot and they dont have birch ply or mdf and they will never have.

So I took a pic of a "Golden Verola" panels already cut 2' x 2' x 3/4" for $7.00 a piece. The whole 8x4 costs $37. Is that wood good for a sub?

Take a look.
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post #2 of 94 Old 09-02-2011, 01:41 PM - Thread Starter
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Alsp they have this panels fromBrazil. No idea what type of wood is.
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post #3 of 94 Old 09-02-2011, 01:42 PM
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They didn't have MDF ?

It's a pretty universal product. Did you ask someone if they'll bring it in?

Either way, the pics don't really tell us much other than it looks really nice actually. Is it ply?
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post #4 of 94 Old 09-02-2011, 02:32 PM - Thread Starter
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The pic from Brazil woods says "Form Ply". Here is the pic of the pallet"

The first one named "Golden Virola" Check the pic. About Mdf is not common in Puerto Rico.

What size of fasteners? 1-5/8 long or 2-1/4?
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post #5 of 94 Old 09-02-2011, 02:53 PM
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Count the plies in each. Look for voids in each.

More plies and less voids = better wood.

For 3/4" panels, I typically use 1 5/8" screws.
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post #6 of 94 Old 09-02-2011, 03:59 PM
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Formply is intended for concrete forms. OE&S means oiled edge and sides. C/C+ means big knot holes on both sides. Who knows what the inner plies are like. You really don't want to build speakers out of this stuff.

Virola is a hardwood, which in a reasonable grade, should yield a decent substrate for whatever finish you want. The question is what the inner plies are. Probably lots of voids. Who knows how dense.

FWIW its not birch plywood you want. It is baltic/russian/finnish birch in which all the plies are birch, in B/BB grade or better. It will have no voids. Even if you could get birch plywood at your local home improvement store, it would not be baltic birch. The inner plies would be something besides birch and almost certainly have voids.

Go to a real lumber store. They should have baltic birch and MDF, even in Puerto Rico. There must be furniture manufacturers there that use the stuff.
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post #7 of 94 Old 09-02-2011, 04:11 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks to all for this useful info. ForgetvHome Depot. I will do the search for lumber hadrware in PR to see if im lucky.
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post #8 of 94 Old 09-02-2011, 05:30 PM
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You may or may not be able to find great wood like baltic birch on PR.

Just doing a quick google maps search pulled up "Puerto Rico Wire Group" as a possibility. They list that they carry a variety of construction materials including plywood, lumber, and millwork - though it could be low grade stuff used for sheathing houses... May be worth a look.

Best,
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post #9 of 94 Old 09-02-2011, 09:29 PM
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post #10 of 94 Old 09-02-2011, 10:39 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manic1! View Post

Here you go.

http://www.fordaq.com/fordaq/Country...erto-Rico.html

Yeah. Thanks for that. I will call tomorrow to Madelux to see if they have it. Sadly is a 4 hours round trip and lets hope if they have it and can cut it for me. I dont have a pickup!! Just a Sedan Car. Rubio Imports are 10 minutes from me and the claim dont sell any kind of woods!! Second option is "Puerto Rico Wire".

Never heard of "EA" but according to the location its in the middle of the island. Thats in the mountain with lots of narrow roads and curves!! Not good to go when you have kids. They start to puke and get dizzy.
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post #11 of 94 Old 09-03-2011, 08:35 PM - Thread Starter
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FLEX SEAL !!

Does anyone seen this advertise on tv? Its some kind of can spray designed to seal any leaks. Im wondering if its worthy to use it to seal all the edges in an enclosure; specially on sealed cabinets. Costs only $19.99 for two cans.
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post #12 of 94 Old 09-04-2011, 05:58 AM
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If you're worried about small gaps in your construction, use PL premium which is a construction adhesive you should be able to find there at home depot. It is gap filling/bridging to greater than 1/8" while still maintaining strength. The stuff is a bit slippery to work with, but impressively strong once it completely hardens!

Regular wood glue is fine if you've got nice tight joints. I used to caulk all the inside joints as well just for good measure/overkill. My last box I used PL, and had no need to add additional caulking.

If you're going to do it as a furniture piece, being nicely finished/stained or veneered, wood glue is a bit easier to sand flat.

Also, PL is much cheaper than the price you mentioned for flex seal (and you still need to buy glue if you're using flex seal...).

Best,
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post #13 of 94 Old 09-04-2011, 06:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by javygonx View Post

FLEX SEAL !!

Does anyone seen this advertise on tv? Its some kind of can spray designed to seal any leaks. Im wondering if its worthy to use it to seal all the edges in an enclosure; specially on sealed cabinets. Costs only $19.99 for two cans.

Been there done that, It sucks!! Of course I had a different application for it.

Use PL premium stuff. It works and its cheaper. Then just add caulking beacuse if you can spray the flex seal in that area you can easily apply caulking. There just isnt any reason to spend $20 on something that caulking and regular glues alredy handle the problem.

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post #14 of 94 Old 09-04-2011, 02:18 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks. I will find that PL. Whats PL stands for?
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post #15 of 94 Old 09-04-2011, 03:52 PM
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PL Premium Construction Adhesive

Very strong, easy to apply, and expands to fill gaps.
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post #16 of 94 Old 09-04-2011, 06:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lilmike View Post

PL Premium Construction Adhesive

Very strong, easy to apply, and expands to fill gaps.

Have you seen it expand Lilmike? I know it bridges gaps well, but I can't say I've ever seen it expand to fill gaps at all. I've had plenty ooze out of my joints on clamping though.

Gorilla glue on the other hand, foams and expands, but that expanded foam has very little useful strength - not a good gap filler like PL or epoxy.

Best,
C.
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post #17 of 94 Old 09-04-2011, 07:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cerdic View Post


Have you seen it expand Lilmike? I know it bridges gaps well, but I can't say I've ever seen it expand to fill gaps at all. I've had plenty ooze out of my joints on clamping though.

Gorilla glue on the other hand, foams and expands, but that expanded foam has very little useful strength - not a good gap filler like PL or epoxy.

Best,
C.

It definitely expands. A little moisture helps, just like with polyurethane wood glue. A typical squeeze-out line will double in size before it cures.
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post #18 of 94 Old 09-04-2011, 07:21 PM
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Huh. Never noticed. I tend to clean up my squeezeout early, and never noticed additional squeezeout later. Nice to know though - gives an extra feel-good to know it may fill some little unseen gaps!

Best,
C.
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post #19 of 94 Old 09-04-2011, 10:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by javygonx View Post

FLEX SEAL !!.

Looks like nothing more than automotive spray underseal marketed in a novel manner...
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post #20 of 94 Old 09-07-2011, 03:26 PM - Thread Starter
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Another help here. I dont clamps to tight the panels while glue dries; so my idea is to use a 1/4" Forstner Bit to drill like 1/4" deep and hide the fasteners and then add more glue on the hole to cover it!.. It is a good idea? Or do I have to just do the pilot holes; use the fasteners and when glue dries remove the fasteners?!!!!....

Thanks in advance!

Btw; finding the MDF or Baltic Birch Plywood is very difficult here!!!.. I traveled 3 hours to a lumberyard and they dont carry MDFs any more!; also dont have Baltic Birch!.. The store owner gave me few addresses with some possibilities to find it! I still have that hope!
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post #21 of 94 Old 09-07-2011, 03:44 PM
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Don't try to cover up holes with glue. It will cause you a lot of grief. If you don't have clamps, a simple way to secure the panels while the glue is setting up is with brads (small nails), drive them slightly below the surface and fill the holes with wood putty. You can also use cleats (square pieces of wood) on the inside and screw through them into the panels. That way there is nothing to fix on the outside.
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post #22 of 94 Old 09-07-2011, 05:45 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Colm View Post

Don't try to cover up holes with glue. It will cause you a lot of grief. If you don't have clamps, a simple way to secure the panels while the glue is setting up is with brads (small nails), drive them slightly below the surface and fill the holes with wood putty. You can also use cleats (square pieces of wood) on the inside and screw through them into the panels. That way there is nothing to fix on the outside.

So; what if use wood putty to cover the holes made with forstner bit while using 1-5/8" thin fasteners? Is still a better idea of using brad nails instead of fasteners?? Either way (Brads or Fasteners) I will use glue on panels.
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post #23 of 94 Old 09-08-2011, 05:59 AM - Thread Starter
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I found the glorious MDF @ $49 per panel. Sadly I have to travel 2 hours. The store sells a lot of different type of wood panels (cedar, oak, mahogany, bamboo, maple, birch - not sure if baltic!).

If I want to cut the panel they can do it for $1 per cut. I dont have a table saw so I will pay for the cuts adding about $10.

So other than mdf and baltic birch which of the other types of wood mentioned works?
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post #24 of 94 Old 09-08-2011, 01:23 PM
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Yes, you can use wood putty to fill the holes. You can even use Bondo automotive putty. There really isn't an advantage to screws over brads. The glue is what holds the cabinet together. I suggest you use cleats in the corners for a greater glue area and overall strength of the cabinet.

Baltic Birch is all birch plies. It is used because in the right grades, there are no significant defects in the face veneer, it is dense, it is void free, it is flat, etc. Other birch plywood has birch veneers on the faces and other wood for the inner plies. It usually has voids and isn't as dense.
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post #25 of 94 Old 09-08-2011, 01:47 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Colm View Post

I suggest you use cleats in the corners for a greater glue area and overall strength of the cabinet.

What are cleats? Bracing? If so; I want some help about bracing. This will be a sealed sub; facing forward. So; I see bracing in the middle of the inside panels; some horizontally; others vertically; and others both but seems difficult do to both because they have to join. So; If I decided to add just a bracing in the middle of the enclosure; what is better: horizontally or vertically?
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post #26 of 94 Old 09-08-2011, 05:38 PM
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The cleats I am talking about are just square sticks, about 1"x1" that go in the corners where the panels meet to reinforce the joint. I wouldn't worry about bracing in the center of the panel IIWY.
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post #27 of 94 Old 09-09-2011, 07:56 PM - Thread Starter
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I got the MDF!! I bought two panels. On the store they cut it to the respective measurements. Also I bought ebony wood stain, titebond 2 glue, polyurethane, ebony wood putty and 1-5/8 fasteners. Im ready to start tomorrow morning. Wheeeee!! Anything else I need?
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post #28 of 94 Old 09-09-2011, 10:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by javygonx View Post

Anything else I need?

A lot of patience, a little planning, and luck...
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post #29 of 94 Old 09-09-2011, 10:50 PM - Thread Starter
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Here are the items to start
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post #30 of 94 Old 09-10-2011, 08:45 AM
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I would recommend painting the MDF instead of staining and varnishing.

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