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post #271 of 356 Old 06-02-2012, 11:41 AM
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Hi Rick. Thx.

The vertical coverage appears good based on PI's ladder measurement.

With the SB29 and waveguide, I can cross around 1.2khz. With that I'm tempted by this anarchy. Looks like it could work in a 2way that low.
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post #272 of 356 Old 06-02-2012, 01:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tuxedocivic View Post

Hi Rick. Thx.

The vertical coverage appears good based on PI's ladder measurement.

With the SB29 and waveguide, I can cross around 1.2khz. With that I'm tempted by this anarchy. Looks like it could work in a 2way that low.

That probably would work.

Selah Audio

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post #273 of 356 Old 06-02-2012, 03:55 PM
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This is the best build and documentation I've seen. Excellent job!

Kevin Haskins
Exodus Audio
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post #274 of 356 Old 06-03-2012, 10:08 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Silver1omo View Post

Great build, top quality as your other builds.

Thanks, man. I really appreciate it.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin Haskins View Post

This is the best build and documentation I've seen. Excellent job!

Wow, thanks for the compliment. That's high praise, coming from the guy that designed and makes the Anarchy driver. You are too kind.

And thank you Rick Craig for an excellent design.

And many thanks to Big Jim for giving me the chance to demo his CurvoMatic here in this build thread. The curvomatic takes all the work out of curving cabinet sides. Plus, I demonstrated that you can curve and veneer in a single step. Definitely worth it, in my opinion.

"Still, a man hears what he wants to hear and disregards the rest." --Paul Simon The Boxer
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post #275 of 356 Old 06-03-2012, 11:20 AM - Thread Starter
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I've been asked about power-handling for the Widow Makers.
I'll let Rick handle that question.

Folks, the fact that these compare favorably to the NHT VR3s is pretty impressive, considering the VR3s have a tweeter, 5 1/4" mid-range and two 6 1/2" woofers, versus a tweeter and single 6 1/2" woofer.

"Still, a man hears what he wants to hear and disregards the rest." --Paul Simon The Boxer
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post #276 of 356 Old 06-04-2012, 03:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PassingInterest View Post

I've been asked about power-handling for the Widow Makers.
I'll let Rick handle that question.

Folks, the fact that these compare favorably to the NHT VR3s is pretty impressive, considering the VR3s have a tweeter, 5 1/4" mid-range and two 6 1/2" woofers, versus a tweeter and single 6 1/2" woofer.

If there's a specific question concerning the power handling I would be happy to answer it.

Selah Audio

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post #277 of 356 Old 06-04-2012, 04:00 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick Craig View Post

If there's a specific question concerning the power handling I would be happy to answer it.

The question posed to me was what is the recommended power and how much can they take.

"Still, a man hears what he wants to hear and disregards the rest." --Paul Simon The Boxer
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post #278 of 356 Old 06-04-2012, 06:09 PM
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I'm not Rick but I kinda have an answer.

Power Ratings for transducers are an area of much confusion. It isn't meaningful to talk about the power that the transducer can handle unless you qualify the signal used and the enclosure/application it is used within.

From a practical standpoint, with music/movies as your source material, you won't toast the coils unless you are doing something evil. I've seen one thermal failure with approx 1500 units sold and that was a car audio guy. The most likely failure mode is mechanical due to low-frequency use where you slam the driver repeatably against the suspension limits. Eventually it will start to scrape and make scratching noises. Of course the loudspeaker will be complaining when you reach those levels. The high SPL capability of the loudspeaker is mainly due to the high xmech capability of the driver.

As a point of reference.... I power my listening set of loudspeakers (using the Anarchy) with a 1200W @ 8-ohm pro amplifier or with a 200W @ 8-ohm Class D amplifier. I don't notice any difference in performance between the two. I've also designed an active loudspeaker using approx 100W @ 8-Ohms on the midwoofer and it works fantastic. I'm sure you could clip it earlier but it is at SPL levels I'd never use.

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Exodus Audio
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post #279 of 356 Old 06-04-2012, 07:13 PM - Thread Starter
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Okay thanks, Kevin. I appreciate your taking the time to explain that.

"Still, a man hears what he wants to hear and disregards the rest." --Paul Simon The Boxer
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post #280 of 356 Old 06-04-2012, 08:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin Haskins View Post

I'm not Rick but I kinda have an answer.

Power Ratings for transducers are an area of much confusion. It isn't meaningful to talk about the power that the transducer can handle unless you qualify the signal used and the enclosure/application it is used within.

From a practical standpoint, with music/movies as your source material, you won't toast the coils unless you are doing something evil. I've seen one thermal failure with approx 1500 units sold and that was a car audio guy. The most likely failure mode is mechanical due to low-frequency use where you slam the driver repeatably against the suspension limits. Eventually it will start to scrape and make scratching noises. Of course the loudspeaker will be complaining when you reach those levels. The high SPL capability of the loudspeaker is mainly due to the high xmech capability of the driver.

As a point of reference.... I power my listening set of loudspeakers (using the Anarchy) with a 1200W @ 8-ohm pro amplifier or with a 200W @ 8-ohm Class D amplifier. I don't notice any difference in performance between the two. I've also designed an active loudspeaker using approx 100W @ 8-Ohms on the midwoofer and it works fantastic. I'm sure you could clip it earlier but it is at SPL levels I'd never use.

I'll add that most power problems come from underpowered amps that clip and in some cases damage the tweeter.

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post #281 of 356 Old 06-04-2012, 08:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PassingInterest View Post

The question posed to me was what is the recommended power and how much can they take.

I would suggest an amp with 100-150 watts/ channel not driven into clipping. The design isn't intended to play super loud or reach reference levels (though you did find that it will play quite loud and still remain clean).

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post #282 of 356 Old 06-06-2012, 05:07 AM - Thread Starter
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Okay thanks, Rick.

"Still, a man hears what he wants to hear and disregards the rest." --Paul Simon The Boxer
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post #283 of 356 Old 06-06-2012, 02:40 PM - Thread Starter
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Stands

I plan on making some stands like these.

Capture a footprint.

402


Trim some waste.

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Trim some waste.

402


Smooth. You can extend the life of your sanding belt and discs by using some sanding belt cleaner. It's like a big eraser. It cleans gunk off the sanding belt or disc.

402

402

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post #284 of 356 Old 06-06-2012, 02:47 PM - Thread Starter
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Enlarge the footprint.

402

402


Trim some waste.

402


I now have two templates.

402


Prepare to joint a face.

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Two more passes should do it.

402

402


Joint an edge.

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One more pass should do it.

402


Done.

402

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post #285 of 356 Old 06-06-2012, 02:55 PM - Thread Starter
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Ash panels.

402


This Oak is cupped and at 11 1/4" it is too wide for my 6" jointer.

402


I made a carrier board, so I can feed this through the surface planer with the shims in place.
Without the shims, the planer's feed rollers will press the cupped board flat and the cupping will not be removed.
Screws in the carrier board prevent the feed rollers from pulling the workpiece off the carrier board.

402

402


That's better.

402

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post #286 of 356 Old 06-06-2012, 03:00 PM - Thread Starter
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Use the smaller template.

402


Trim some waste.

402


Route.

402

402


Trim the Ash panels.

402


Two Ash and two Red Oak pieces are ready for an edge profile, but I'm out of time for today.

402

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post #287 of 356 Old 06-06-2012, 03:40 PM
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As always great stuff PI. cool.gif
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post #288 of 356 Old 06-06-2012, 04:36 PM
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PI = Best threads on AVS. You need your own TV show....

JSS
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post #289 of 356 Old 06-06-2012, 04:45 PM - Thread Starter
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mtg90 and MaxMercy--You guys are way too kind. Thanks!

"Still, a man hears what he wants to hear and disregards the rest." --Paul Simon The Boxer
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post #290 of 356 Old 06-06-2012, 06:49 PM
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Do you just sit your speakers on top of the stands or do you use something to connect them? Either way, they are looking great. I saw the previous ones you did and I'm wanting to make something similar for my speakers.
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post #291 of 356 Old 06-07-2012, 05:17 AM - Thread Starter
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Maklar--Thanks! I don't bolt the speakers to the stands. I just set them on top and rely on the weight of the speaker to keep it in place in case it gets bumped into.
I can appreciate the concern if someone has children or large dogs that might bump into them during playtime.
It would be easy to screw up, into the speaker bottom through the top of the stand to secure them, or use threaded inserts in the bottom of the speaker and bolt them down.

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post #292 of 356 Old 06-07-2012, 07:53 AM - Thread Starter
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I have the bit height set where I want it and I'm using the fence to take off a little at a time, to reduce the likelihood of chip-out.
This is after one pass.

402


Done in three passes, adjusting the fence each time. I ran each of the four pieces through, before moving the fence.

402


On the last piece, I got a chip out on the bearing surface. It's funny how these things chip sometimes.

402


I used some liquid superglue. Some Release aluminum foil protects the clamp from the superglue (Release has one side coated with Teflon).

402

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post #293 of 356 Old 06-07-2012, 09:56 AM - Thread Starter
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Ready to resume routing.

402


After routing and some light hand-sanding, the repaired area blends pretty well.

402

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post #294 of 356 Old 06-07-2012, 12:57 PM
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post #295 of 356 Old 06-07-2012, 03:45 PM - Thread Starter
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fbov--Thanks, man. You're very kind.


Two Red Oak panels (left) for the large bases and two Ash panels for the upright centers.

402


I still need to glue four Red Oak panels for the outer uprights, but I'm out of time for today.

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post #296 of 356 Old 06-08-2012, 08:56 AM - Thread Starter
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I've got two boards that are cupped pretty badly like this and I don't want to take off that much material to get them flat.

402


So I ripped them down the center and now you can see that I won't have to take off much at all, before I glue them back together.

402


A single pass at 1/32" was almost enough to make this board flat.

402


Now it's flat without sacrificing much thickness.

402


Final panel glue-up.

402

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post #297 of 356 Old 06-08-2012, 10:47 AM - Thread Starter
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You can use a carbide scraper to remove most of the squeeze-out.

402


Then you can easily sand it the rest of the way.

402


That's it for today. We have other plans for the rest of the day.

402

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post #298 of 356 Old 06-11-2012, 05:35 PM - Thread Starter
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Square up one end.

402


Then place that end against the fence and trim the stack to length.

402


Mark the center.

402


If you don't want to deal with fractions, just angle the ruler until you land on a whole number and divide that in half.

402


I'm using the same circle jig I made the last time I made a pair of stands.
Secure everything in place with brads.

402


Rather than make a template, I'll just cut each piece this way.
I am plunging 3/32" each pass.

402


Now I need to cut four convex curves, so my reference is flipped. I secured a small piece of plywood to help with aligning the remaining three pieces after this one is done.

402

402

402


1/4" radius roundover.

402

402

402

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post #299 of 356 Old 06-12-2012, 09:40 AM - Thread Starter
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Mark the dowel hole locations.

402


A dowel centering jig is handy for doweling.

402


Use some tape to mark the depth.

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Select the hole size you need and align its centering line with the mark you made on your workpiece.

402

402


I wrap some tape around the Dowel Centers to make them fit more snug in the holes.

402


Align and press down firmly to mark the mating dowel holes.

402

402

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post #300 of 356 Old 06-12-2012, 12:27 PM - Thread Starter
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Spray several coats of clear water based poly.

402

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