looking to build some subs for my ht - Page 2 - AVS Forum
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post #31 of 59 Old 09-27-2011, 11:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by squish72 View Post

ended up ordering the dayton 15 hf and i ordered a flared 4" port too just in case

Why? It will give less output than the IXL18 (about 1/2) and won't go as deep. And a 4" port is probably too small. Cancel it.

I already gave you a workable design with a full set of cut sheets.
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post #32 of 59 Old 09-28-2011, 05:36 AM - Thread Starter
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i didnt llike the how i could only get dual 1 ohm voice coils on the 18 and he told me that if i wanted the dual 2 ohm that i would have to wait for months
and it would be the new revised model and it would cost a lot more and i decided i didnt want to mess with shipping from canada i have had stuff held up for 2 months at customs and didnt want to deal with that

if there is another comparable driver i can sell this and buy it
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post #33 of 59 Old 09-28-2011, 03:48 PM - Thread Starter
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Can someone help me with what software I need or should use and maybe a place I can find a tutorial on how to utilize the software? I'm not giving up ont the 18 but I figure I can add this to my current sub and if I don't like it it can be the sub for my living room since I need one there also. Would the easy button be too large of a box for the 15? Cause I could build the box then retune the port for the 18 and make the cut out larger.
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post #34 of 59 Old 09-29-2011, 01:14 AM
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I'm not sure where the current version of WinISD resides, nor how to input data as I haven't used it for years. Maybe someone else can direct.

Unibox is here but needs Excel.

It's a long w/e here this w/e and I'll have a little more time to look into it but I'm not confident of doing a lot better than that. Looking at the PE listing for the T/S they are radically different to what I have in an older datasheet so I'll need to find out which is correct. Since P/E changed their site software a while back I can't seem to download pdfs.
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post #35 of 59 Old 09-29-2011, 05:37 AM - Thread Starter
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ok cool if you need any info off the pdf let me know
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post #36 of 59 Old 09-29-2011, 11:12 AM
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Could you attach it here please?
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post #37 of 59 Old 09-29-2011, 12:17 PM - Thread Starter
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Sorry but I cannot I'm at work and only have my cell phone. Does this help? http://www.daytonaudio.com/index.php...fer-4-ohm.html
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post #38 of 59 Old 09-29-2011, 12:29 PM
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D'oh. Made typo entering parms. Off to work now, but some ideas on the w/e.
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post #39 of 59 Old 09-30-2011, 12:21 PM - Thread Starter
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hope fed ex tracking isnt wrong says my sub will be here monday
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post #40 of 59 Old 09-30-2011, 10:53 PM
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Sealed: gets you the smallest enclosure which for this is about 150L net, but also the highest roll off.

Frequency response


Excursion


Ported: Classic B4 alignment is 360L with a tuning of 16.4Hz. Once I ran the numbers for this alignment with the correct T/S parameters I saw it came close to the 400L of the IXL EB in volume. So you could use the EB design and drawings and using a 6" diameter port, adjust the length down to 38cm for the 16.4Hz tuning. To save you redesigning for a 10% enclosure volume difference, I have used the 400L version in the sims (IXL EB size).

I have also added into the sims a 2nd order (commonly called 12dB/oct) high pass filter at 17Hz to limit over excursion below tuning. All ported subs have this issue. Whether it is a problem for you in practice will depend upon what you are listening to and how loud. There is plenty of content down there in some movies and so it could be a real world issue for you so I'd suggest adding one in.

All of the sims are with 200W of power apllied because that is where the driver hit Xmax with all enclosure types.

First for each of the pairs below is without the HPF, and the second is with.

Frequency response



You can see here the excursion increasing dramatically below tuning.



Excursion





Port Air Speed





The lower air speed with the filter in place means that port turbulence is unlikely ever to be audible in use.

And finally a frequency response comparion for all three in one graph.

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post #41 of 59 Old 09-30-2011, 11:15 PM
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If it's going behind the couch, near the rear wall you could either put the driver and port at one end, or on top and add a shelf above them some 6-8 inches higher to stop things accidentally falling on the driver or in the port.
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post #42 of 59 Old 10-01-2011, 06:49 AM - Thread Starter
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wow i woke up and had all this great use full info. thank you!

i think i will go with the eb since the design is already laid out for me and with a box that big it might be easier for me to upgrade the sub and not have to change the whole box, just retune the port/ports.

since ill need a hpf would it be best to buy a different amp with one built in? if so the amps wattage can be higher than the 200w needed you just dont need to turn the gain up as high, right?
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post #43 of 59 Old 10-01-2011, 03:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by squish72 View Post

wow i woke up and had all this great use full info. thank you!

i think i will go with the eb since the design is already laid out for me and with a box that big it might be easier for me to upgrade the sub and not have to change the whole box, just retune the port/ports.

That's half of the reason why I did the sims for a box the same size as the EB (later option). The other half was that all the cut sheets were laid out for you already to simplify construction.

Quote:
Originally Posted by squish72 View Post

since ill need a hpf would it be best to buy a different amp with one built in? if so the amps wattage can be higher than the 200w needed you just dont need to turn the gain up as high, right?

Correct. You can always turn it down, but you can't turn it up once clipping. I'll PM you re HPF.
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post #44 of 59 Old 10-01-2011, 05:20 PM - Thread Starter
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well got all my supplies and mdf cut today at the local lumber yard with screws, lexel (calk), wood, and port it came to just under $85.

since i will be screwing it do you recomend i predrill the mdf?

what amp should i get for it? just a plate amp or an external one? i could maybe spring for < $200 on one
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post #45 of 59 Old 10-03-2011, 05:01 PM - Thread Starter
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No sub yet
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post #46 of 59 Old 10-05-2011, 12:06 PM - Thread Starter
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Got my sub now I need a amp
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post #47 of 59 Old 10-05-2011, 10:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by squish72 View Post

Got my sub now I need a amp

Some sort of plate amp is often cheapest/easiest, but I don't like them myself, so I dunno what to recommend.

If you are fairly certain you want another sub later too, then a pro poweramp like the Behringer EP2500/4000 (same amp different name) and a MiniDSP for EQ and Xover, incl the HPF is the most powerful and capable solution. There are a ton of other amps that will work in place of the EP's too and more power than needed is not a problem as you can turn it down. There are a couple of threads on the Behringer Inuke and Peavey IPR recently updated too.
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post #48 of 59 Old 10-06-2011, 10:52 AM - Thread Starter
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Ok and the minidsp will work with any amp because it goes through the rca correct? Also what minidsp should I get? Just the board or rev a or rev b?
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post #49 of 59 Old 10-06-2011, 12:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A9X-308 View Post

Some sort of plate amp is often cheapest/easiest, but I don't like them myself, so I dunno what to recommend.

If you are fairly certain you want another sub later too, then a pro poweramp like the Behringer EP2500/4000 (same amp different name) and a MiniDSP for EQ and Xover, incl the HPF is the most powerful and capable solution. There are a ton of other amps that will work in place of the EP's too and more power than needed is not a problem as you can turn it down. There are a couple of threads on the Behringer Inuke and Peavey IPR recently updated too.

I thought you can't turn down pro amps because it's just an attenuation knob and not a volume? Wouldn't the only way to limit the power be thru HPF or lowering the input sensitivity?
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post #50 of 59 Old 10-07-2011, 05:31 AM - Thread Starter
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i have zero knowledge on pro amps so that would be good to know
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post #51 of 59 Old 10-08-2011, 06:22 PM - Thread Starter
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well decided on ordering the oaudio 500w amp
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post #52 of 59 Old 10-09-2011, 09:26 PM - Thread Starter
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started on the box
LL
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post #53 of 59 Old 10-10-2011, 02:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mpray1983 View Post

I thought you can't turn down pro amps because it's just an attenuation knob and not a volume?

Can't turn down pro amps? How do you think they are used in different venues night after night with different bands and requirements etc? Of course they are adjustable.

An input attenuator and a volume control are the same thing and affect the overall gain (i/p connector to o/p terminals) of an amplifier. If the actual amplifier stage has a voltage gain of 30dB (31.6x) and you set the I/p att to -20dB (1/10th) the overall gain is
30-20=10dB or 31.6 x 1/10 = 3.16x = 10dB

Changing the i/p att setting only reduces the signal to the amplifier stage which (almost without exception) will have a fixed gain.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mpray1983 View Post

Wouldn't the only way to limit the power be thru HPF or lowering the input sensitivity?

No to the HPF as that will only affect signals below the low corner and nowhere else.

Input sensitiity is simply the output voltage at a given impedance divided by the gain.
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post #54 of 59 Old 10-11-2011, 06:20 AM - Thread Starter
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Well got more done on it, just need to cut the hole for the sub and port then caulk it and install front plate with sub

Attachment 224960
LL
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post #55 of 59 Old 10-12-2011, 09:20 AM - Thread Starter
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Ready for paint. The amp should be here tomorrow

Attachment 225028
LL
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post #56 of 59 Old 01-16-2012, 07:58 PM - Thread Starter
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been a really long time since building this sub and all i can say is thank you to everyone that helped me with this! by far the biggest upgrade to my system
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post #57 of 59 Old 01-16-2012, 09:43 PM
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How's it sound?! Which amp did you go with?
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post #58 of 59 Old 07-29-2012, 11:20 AM - Thread Starter
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sounded great.....but i was all ways fighting my amp settings and i dont know why but some movies would seem to bypass the subsonic filter and flutter the hell out of the sub and cause it to bottom out. On friday i watched the lorax on bluray and one scene it did that and bottomed the sub out 4 or 5 times now i have a dreaded coil rattle so i need to find a new sub to drop in this box
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post #59 of 59 Old 08-26-2012, 12:18 PM - Thread Starter
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