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post #61 of 253 Old 12-17-2011, 06:14 AM
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I think the designer made a cost decision on this one. The cost on these is less than a pair of decent CDs and required waveguides.

Sorry dusty shopfloor, great build log so far!!!
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post #62 of 253 Old 12-17-2011, 06:30 AM - Thread Starter
 
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Guys, I just found out in the Howitzer thread that PassingInterest is planning on kicking me to the curb after this build.

So, to get back at him--and more importantly--to clear up all the complaints and concerns about the sound quality of these Bad Boys, I'm thinking of inviting all my AVS friends to audition the Stentorians at PassingInterest's house. Hahaha! He will be so mad when he finds out!

I have to finish them first, of course. And I won't have them for very long at all.

Is there any interest in auditioning these?
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post #63 of 253 Old 12-17-2011, 07:13 AM - Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BeerParty View Post

Show off!

( See? I can be flippant too! )

Thanks, Chris. And thanks for the good laugh.
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post #64 of 253 Old 12-17-2011, 07:42 AM
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very nice build dusty. really looking forward to the finished products.

btw, what's your experience with titebond II? i like pl premium, but the excess glue is a pain to get rid off. does titebond ii hold up as well?
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post #65 of 253 Old 12-17-2011, 07:55 AM
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Dusty, I hope you don't mind if I hijack this thread for a bit, but you mentioned that you were interested in my mod and I know Curt is following along. So I'll like to post my proposed cabinet mod for the Stentorians here and get some feedback on how much impact it would have on the design.

Here is a quick mock-up I made in Sketch-up:



As you can see your Howitzer Build was a huge influence.

Basically my plan is to use the baffle dimensions from the Stentorians (with rounded tops), flush mounting the drivers per the instructions, but then attach that 3/4" thick baffle to a second wider baffle to produce the same effect you got with your baffle cover on the Howitzers. The problem is that this changes the baffle in ways that I know will impact the sound. I don't know enough about speaker designs to anticipate how much the sound will change or figure out how to update the crossover to compensate.

At this point I have not calculated the rest of the cabinet dimensions. if I decide to move forward with this design I know I'll have to redesign the rest of the cabinet to keep the volume the same for the three chambers.

So, anyone with design experience care to give a thumbs up/down on this change? I'm not starting this build until next year, so I'll have some time to take feedback. I am also more than willing to build the Stentorians as is, so if this design changes the sound too much please let me know.
LL
LL

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post #66 of 253 Old 12-17-2011, 10:05 AM
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" The problem is that this changes the baffle in ways that I know will impact the sound. I don't know enough about speaker designs to anticipate how much the sound will change or figure out how to update the crossover to compensate. "

that will work fine for most folks. if you really want to pick nits, the multiple steps around the tweeter will create diffraction points. ideally the baffle would be a smooth curve around and away from the tweeter and mids. revel salon2 and b&w 802 have decent approaches to this problem.

http://www.revelspeakers.com/Products/Details/42

http://www.bowers-wilkins.com/Speake...2-Diamond.html

Listen. It's All Good.
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post #67 of 253 Old 12-17-2011, 10:06 AM - Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smokarz View Post

very nice build dusty. really looking forward to the finished products.

btw, what's your experience with titebond II? i like pl premium, but the excess glue is a pain to get rid off. does titebond ii hold up as well?

Thanks, guy.
Titebond II is an excellent glue. I use the heck out of it.
PL Premium has a gap-filling advantage, which is great for building a folded horn, where you can't get at all the inner seams once it is sealed.

For most speaker builds, you can dribble TB II along all the inner seams after the clamps are off, to get a perfect seal. That shouldn't be necessary if all your joints are tight in the first place, but it is good to know about that trick for just in case it is needed.
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post #68 of 253 Old 12-17-2011, 10:08 AM - Thread Starter
 
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I gotta run, but wow those drawings look great, Chris!
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post #69 of 253 Old 12-17-2011, 11:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dusty Shopfloor View Post

Guys, I just found out in the Howitzer thread that PassingInterest is planning on kicking me to the curb after this build.

So, to get back at him--and more importantly--to clear up all the complaints and concerns about the sound quality of these Bad Boys, I'm thinking of inviting all my AVS friends to audition the Stentorians at PassingInterest's house. Hahaha! He will be so mad when he finds out!

I have to finish them first, of course. And I won't have them for very long at all.

Is there any interest in auditioning these?

Me! Me! I called it first!

Dumb enough to spend lots of cash on this junk!
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post #70 of 253 Old 12-17-2011, 11:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dusty Shopfloor View Post

Thanks, guy.
Titebond II is an excellent glue. I use the heck out of it.
PL Premium has a gap-filling advantage, which is great for building a folded horn, where you can't get at all the inner seams once it is sealed.

For most speaker builds, you can dribble TB II along all the inner seams after the clamps are off, to get a perfect seal. That shouldn't be necessary if all your joints are tight in the first place, but it is good to know about that trick for just in case it is needed.

I know this has helped me out a lot in my builds. I dado all my panels. Then a decent amount of Tightbond Original and let the glue squeeze out an then use a finger to smooth into a bead along the seam.

An audiophile likes to talk about how much they spent and how good it sounds.

A DIY'er likes to talk about how little they spent and how good it sounds.

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post #71 of 253 Old 12-17-2011, 12:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dusty Shopfloor View Post

Guys, I just found out in the Howitzer thread that PassingInterest is planning on kicking me to the curb after this build.

So, to get back at him--and more importantly--to clear up all the complaints and concerns about the sound quality of these Bad Boys, I'm thinking of inviting all my AVS friends to audition the Stentorians at PassingInterest's house. Hahaha! He will be so mad when he finds out!

I have to finish them first, of course. And I won't have them for very long at all.

Is there any interest in auditioning these?

If I was in the area, I would love to check them out.
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post #72 of 253 Old 12-17-2011, 12:55 PM - Thread Starter
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jinjuku View Post

I know this has helped me out a lot in my builds. I dado all my panels. Then a decent amount of Tightbond Original and let the glue squeeze out an then use a finger to smooth into a bead along the seam.

Sage advice! This will give you rock-solid joints. The wood will break before the glue joint does.
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post #73 of 253 Old 12-17-2011, 12:57 PM - Thread Starter
 
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Cleanup.





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post #74 of 253 Old 12-17-2011, 02:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dusty Shopfloor View Post

Thanks, guy.
Titebond II is an excellent glue. I use the heck out of it.
PL Premium has a gap-filling advantage, which is great for building a folded horn, where you can't get at all the inner seams once it is sealed.

For most speaker builds, you can dribble TB II along all the inner seams after the clamps are off, to get a perfect seal. That shouldn't be necessary if all your joints are tight in the first place, but it is good to know about that trick for just in case it is needed.

thanks. i always use that trick to seal as much as i can.

i assumed that you're using auraco ply?

i've always used baltic birch (13 ply) but those are expensive.

i wonder if i should switch to auraco for less than half the price of baltic birch.
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post #75 of 253 Old 12-17-2011, 03:13 PM
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These speakers are close to the JTR Quintuples.

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post #76 of 253 Old 12-17-2011, 03:34 PM - Thread Starter
 
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These speakers are close to the JTR Quintuples.

They do bear a resemblance, but I choose to think that the Stentorians are cooler, because of the huge value they represent.

smokarz--You have a good eye, man. This is indeed Aruco. It is a very good value in plywood.
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post #77 of 253 Old 12-17-2011, 04:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dusty Shopfloor View Post

They do bear a resemblance, but I choose to think that the Stentorians are cooler, because of the huge value they represent.

smokarz--You have a good eye, man. This is indeed Aruco. It is a very good value in plywood.

lol, thanks man. i built some stuff recently with aruco. just not speakers, yet.
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post #78 of 253 Old 12-17-2011, 10:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dusty Shopfloor View Post

Guys, I just found out in the Howitzer thread that PassingInterest is planning on kicking me to the curb after this build.

So, to get back at him--and more importantly--to clear up all the complaints and concerns about the sound quality of these Bad Boys, I'm thinking of inviting all my AVS friends to audition the Stentorians at PassingInterest's house. Hahaha! He will be so mad when he finds out!

I have to finish them first, of course. And I won't have them for very long at all.

Is there any interest in auditioning these?

Lol, always crackin' me up Dusty.

I bet they're pretty good speakers. Wish I could make it down though.
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post #79 of 253 Old 12-18-2011, 04:35 AM - Thread Starter
 
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Anyone want to recommend a finish for these?
I am undecided at this point.
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post #80 of 253 Old 12-18-2011, 04:45 AM - Thread Starter
 
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BeerParty--Chris, the cabinets you sketched-up look way too cool not to build them. In fact, at that level of coolness, you are morally and ethically obligated to build them, because it would be a crime for you not to.

Well okay, I just really want to see them built.
Oh man, those are going to look great!
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post #81 of 253 Old 12-18-2011, 05:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dusty Shopfloor View Post

Anyone want to recommend a finish for these?
I am undecided at this point.

If you're going to give the away as a Christmas present, perhaps you could finish them to compliment the decor of whoever you're giving them to. What does the room look like?

Dumb enough to spend lots of cash on this junk!
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post #82 of 253 Old 12-18-2011, 06:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dusty Shopfloor View Post

Anyone want to recommend a finish for these?
I am undecided at this point.

Red Mahogany Sunburst using transtint/transfast if the arauco grain is nice enough...put your skillz to the test! Dark towards edges so ply endgrain is essentially dark.....

JSS
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post #83 of 253 Old 12-18-2011, 08:46 AM - Thread Starter
 
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Red Mahogany Sunburst using transtint/transfast if the arauco grain is nice enough...put your skillz to the test! Dark towards edges so ply endgrain is essentially dark.....

JSS

That would look good. Time is limited, so I'm not sure if I will go that route or not, but thanks for the great idea.

flyng_fool--The recipient will use them for gigs in small venues.
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post #84 of 253 Old 12-18-2011, 08:52 AM - Thread Starter
 
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Since I cut 6" through holes, the 3/4" shelves had a little overhang, which I smoothed a bit.







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post #85 of 253 Old 12-18-2011, 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by Dusty Shopfloor View Post

smokarz--You have a good eye, man. This is indeed Aruco. It is a very good value in plywood.

May I ask where did you find the Aruco around here and how much did you pay? I've looked at my local HD and Lowes and haven't found any around here before.
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post #86 of 253 Old 12-18-2011, 11:30 AM - Thread Starter
 
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May I ask where did you find the Aruco around here and how much did you pay? I've looked at my local HD and Lowes and haven't found any around here before.

Sorry about the typo--it's actually Arauco.
I got it at the Home Depot in Terrell, Texas at $24.97 for a 4x8 23/32 sheet.
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post #87 of 253 Old 12-18-2011, 11:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dusty Shopfloor View Post

Anyone want to recommend a finish for these?
I am undecided at this point.

Do you care if the plywood edges are visible? Is laminate or veneer an option?

6 days and counting...

Chris

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post #88 of 253 Old 12-18-2011, 11:52 AM
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Great, thanks for the reply. If you wouldn't mind I would also like to drop by to hear these if just for a moment. However, I'm more interested in picking your brain on the curved cabinet builds you have done. I'm wanting to do my first curved sub cabinet and you did some great work on those Howitzers.

Although, I'm might be slightly off base because in your first post you seem to be PI, but a later post you sound like you might be just a friend of PI.
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post #89 of 253 Old 12-18-2011, 11:55 AM
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Great pics and narratives!
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post #90 of 253 Old 12-18-2011, 12:54 PM - Thread Starter
 
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NateTTU--Yes, I am PI. Blame my off-beat sense of humor for the confusion.
I'll let you guys know when will be a good time to come and hear the Stentorians.
And, I'd be glad to share any information I have on building curved cabinets.

BeerParty--I don't mind if plywood edges show, as long as they look good and I think these will. Laminate is not an option and neither is veneer.

koturban--Thanks! I appreciate it.
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