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post #271 of 1138 Old 03-22-2013, 03:52 PM
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Does anyone know how well the 3^ft boxes would work with the 15" Rythmik Custom Install kits? Their box plans call for 3 feet so I'm hoping they would work well...

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post #272 of 1138 Old 03-22-2013, 04:07 PM
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3cu ft = 3 cu ft

 

The only problem you might run into is the driver cut out.

 

DS1505

Driver cutout 14-1/16"
Diameter (outer) 15-5/16"

 

 

and the 3cu ft flatpack cutouts

  • Inner baffle diameter: 14.1"
  • Outer baffle diameter for the 15" Dayton Titanic: 15.6"
  • Outer baffle diameter for the 15" Dayton RS: 15.4"
  • Woofer recess for the 15" Titanic: .5"
  • Woofer recess for the 15" RS: .4"
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post #273 of 1138 Old 03-22-2013, 05:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheLaw612 View Post

Does anyone know how well the 3^ft boxes would work with the 15" Rythmik Custom Install kits? Their box plans call for 3 feet so I'm hoping they would work well...

Not 100% sure but I think the rythmik plan is a typo...they are actually 4 cu ft.
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post #274 of 1138 Old 03-22-2013, 06:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bluesidan View Post

Any updates on the dual opposed for Dayton 18's? I'm trying to be patient, but an enclosure is my last puzzle piece...

I'm in the same boat. Flat Packs for dual opposed would be just the ticket!!wink.gif Lets go Erich smile.gif
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post #275 of 1138 Old 03-22-2013, 06:57 PM - Thread Starter
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The outer diameter of the Rythmik is 15.3125, so it should fit in the same box as the Dayton RS model if 3 cuft was needed.

If anyone buys a box for a different woofer and it does fit okay, please let me know so I can list it on the site.
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post #276 of 1138 Old 03-22-2013, 07:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chpwaman View Post

Not 100% sure but I think the rythmik plan is a typo...they are actually 4 cu ft.

Rythmik's assembled boxes are 3cuft, and for DIY they recommend anywhere between 3 to 4cuft. All three Rythmik 15" drivers have the same mounting dimensions, 14 1/16" through-hole, 15 5/16" outer diameter recess that is 3/8" deep. The Dayton RS 15" driver is just about exactly that. At one point in time Erich was going to offer baffles for the 4cuft with 15" driver cut-outs. I haven't heard anything lately about that.
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post #277 of 1138 Old 03-23-2013, 05:28 AM
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EricH;
On your "big" 3cu ft and 4 cu ft sub boxes do you recommend people hit the hard edges with a router round over bit or leave them as is?
Handling my 3 cu ft sub box the MDF hard edges got nicked easily...
Engineering viewpoint hard corners are high stress concentrations.
Here is picture of the chip, sure small but if painted that would be noticeable
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post #278 of 1138 Old 03-23-2013, 08:29 AM
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EricH;
Another Q - was triple baffle option considered for those with drivers having "big" xmax that want a grille that's not too deep?
(Like my SI drivers.)

If one wanted a grille, considering the 1.25" surround height is same on both 15" and 18", with 22.5mm Xmax (one-way linear) and 43mm Xmech (one-way) ...how much absolute clearance should one give from the base of the speaker to the grille cloth?

1.25" + 43mm aka 1.69" (worst case) = say 3".
Or is 1.25" + 22.5mm aka 0.88 = 2.2" enough for 99.9% , and if the surround touches the grille cloth just once in a while that is acceptable?

For the Flat Packs with 1/2" recess on front 3/4" MDF baffle, 1 x 2 stock (3/4" x 1 1/2") would not be enough, so 1 x 3 stock (3/4" x 2 1/2") as minimum, those would look like...big hunky grilles?
I was considering Grilles on my flat pack subs, but now that seems not best case for the SI drivers.
.

A triple baffle would reduce that by 3/4", so a 1 x 2 stock should suffice....
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post #279 of 1138 Old 03-23-2013, 09:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brianjb View Post

How large do you have the outside diameter cut to on that? I am curious what other 12's will fit in there. The Infinity 1260w would work well in the 15.5" cube. Infinity says the outside diameter is 12.375", and PE lists the Dayton at 12.36". I can't imagine that 15/100's of an inch would matter. I guess a touch of sanding could make it fit if nothing else.

I just got two 1.5 ft^3 flat packs this week with 12' Dayton RS cutout. The Infinity 1260w/1262w fits perfectly without any sanding.
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post #280 of 1138 Old 03-23-2013, 02:50 PM
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How 'bout those 2.25cf boxes? I have a pair of drivers needing cabinets.

Just because there is a knob doesn't mean you should turn it.
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post #281 of 1138 Old 03-23-2013, 03:25 PM - Thread Starter
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I've got the 2.25 cuft model now. They're 16" wide x 19" tall x 18" deep with the double thick baffle. I need to package one up and check shipping weight, than I will make them available. The ones I got were cut big enough for the 12" Dayton Ultimax and 12" Dayton RS models. Sounds like the Infinity 1260 fits as well.

The bracing is back a bit far, so I'm not sure how well a plate amp will fit without cutting into one of the cross braces. I might get some different braces cut to allow more room.
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post #282 of 1138 Old 03-23-2013, 03:29 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtbdudex View Post

EricH;
On your "big" 3cu ft and 4 cu ft sub boxes do you recommend people hit the hard edges with a router round over bit or leave them as is?
Handling my 3 cu ft sub box the MDF hard edges got nicked easily...
Engineering viewpoint hard corners are high stress concentrations.
Here is picture of the chip, sure small but if painted that would be noticeable

Until you get the box painted or veneered, smacking the edges corners on something will definitely ding things up. But that holds true for plywood as well. Any type of wood filler or spackling will fill the ding you made without a problem. Lightly sand it smooth and then apply paint.

Depending on the paint you use, it might be best to seal the mdf. I've used a 50/50 mixture of water and wood glue over the surface. It soaks in real nice and seals things up good prior to painting.
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post #283 of 1138 Old 03-23-2013, 09:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Erich H View Post

I've got the 2.25 cuft model now. They're 16" wide x 19" tall x 18" deep with the double thick baffle. I need to package one up and check shipping weight, than I will make them available. The ones I got were cut big enough for the 12" Dayton Ultimax and 12" Dayton RS models. Sounds like the Infinity 1260 fits as well.

The bracing is back a bit far, so I'm not sure how well a plate amp will fit without cutting into one of the cross braces. I might get some different braces cut to allow more room.

Not familiar with the Daytons. The dimensions of the drivers I have are shown here. Will they fit the standard baffle ?

Note no gasket is included in the 3/8" so probably more like 1/2" recess necessary.


Just because there is a knob doesn't mean you should turn it.
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post #284 of 1138 Old 03-25-2013, 10:49 AM
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Hi Erich,

I sent an email to DIYsoundgroup with a couple questions.

Can I purchase the 10" Dayton RS subwoofer kit, but get it with the 1cu/ft box instead of the 1.25cuft?

If so, could you still do the cutout for the BASH amp? I would be using the sub down firing though, so the cutout would be on one of the sides, not the back. Not sure if this would screw up the bracing though.

If it's at all an issue, I'll just buy the 1 cu/ft flat pack and use threaded binding posts with an external Dayton amp.

Thanks!!!
Dan

Little Loft Home Theater
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post #285 of 1138 Old 03-29-2013, 09:04 PM
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Is there any chance we can get an enclosure built for the TC Epic 10" drivers? I would love to have a small-ish dual opposed 10" box that can handle them.
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post #286 of 1138 Old 03-29-2013, 11:41 PM
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That is funny. I built a pair of dual opposed epic10's last year in 18" x 14.5" x 14.5", which works out to 2.2 cu.ft. and with LT and a little boundary support and room gain, they are quite impressive. I built them because I wanted the absolute smallest box. Now I realize going just a little bit bigger would have been better.

Today you can get the SI HT15 or the 18 for about the same cost and only need a slightly bigger box.

I was simulating a pair of SI HT15's in 4.4 cu. ft.(QTC = .68) last night but you could go down to 3 cu. ft. (QTC = .8) and only lose a couple of db of extension. The box would be just under a 19" cube.

I agree - it would be nice to have a dual opposed flat pack...

Jack
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post #287 of 1138 Old 03-30-2013, 12:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JackNC View Post

That is funny. I built a pair of dual opposed epic10's last year in 18" x 14.5" x 14.5", which works out to 2.2 cu.ft. and with LT and a little boundary support and room gain, they are quite impressive. I built them because I wanted the absolute smallest box. Now I realize going just a little bit bigger would have been better.

Today you can get the SI HT15 or the 18 for about the same cost and only need a slightly bigger box.

I was simulating a pair of SI HT15's in 4.4 cu. ft.(QTC = .68) last night but you could go down to 3 cu. ft. (QTC = .8) and only lose a couple of db of extension. The box would be just under a 19" cube.

I agree - it would be nice to have a dual opposed flat pack...

Jack
Agree on the dual opposed 15" flat packs.
A pair of SI 15" drivers are perfect for people who are limited on power in comparison to a single LMS 5400.
EP4000 would fully power a dual opposed box of SI15 to the same levels as a single LMS 5400 without being limited in power as with the LMS.

Only trade off is the LMS takes over under 15Hz, by roughly 1dB @ 5Hz.

*note* both modeled with 4cu ft.
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post #288 of 1138 Old 03-30-2013, 10:08 AM
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Instead of a dual oppose flat pack what about a dual front firing flat pack? Something similar to a Seaton SubMersive F2 or Rythmik F25?
That would be pretty cool, and I already know people with say just get to standard flat packs and stack them but two drivers in the same enclosure is more aesthetically pleasing to the eye IMO.
That would be pretty bass a$$ looking DIY.
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post #289 of 1138 Old 03-31-2013, 08:43 AM
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Erich,

Have you shipped any kits to Canada? Curious about the final landed cost. Would love to give the Alpha-8 Minions a try.

Thx

 

My DIY Subs ... http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1233892

Quote:

J Dunlavy:.. if you stop to think about it, no loudspeaker can sound more accurate than it measures.

 

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post #290 of 1138 Old 04-03-2013, 06:32 PM - Thread Starter
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The 2 cuft boxes are done for the 12" Ultimax or 12" Dayton RS....or whatever other brand fits in the same cutout diameter.




Quote:
Originally Posted by pbc View Post

Erich,

Have you shipped any kits to Canada? Curious about the final landed cost. Would love to give the Alpha-8 Minions a try.

Thx

I haven't shipped any kits directly to Canada yet. The guys from Canada that did order went through some shipping company in the US and they either picked it up, or had them shipped from there I guess.
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post #291 of 1138 Old 04-03-2013, 08:26 PM
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Done! Pulled the trigger on two 2cf boxes.

Just because there is a knob doesn't mean you should turn it.
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post #292 of 1138 Old 04-05-2013, 12:42 PM
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What about ported flat packs? Any chance?
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post #293 of 1138 Old 04-07-2013, 05:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheLaw612 View Post

Does anyone know how well the 3^ft boxes would work with the 15" Rythmik Custom Install kits? Their box plans call for 3 feet so I'm hoping they would work well...

Regarding the dimensions for the baffle mounting hole for Rythmik 15's: While their literature states, and I and others have quoted, that the through hole is 14 1/16" and the recess is 15 5/16", cutting to those dimensions results in a pretty loose fit. The recess at 15 5/16" is fine (so is the slightly tighter 15 1/4"), but notice that if you subtract 1.5" from that figure (for the 3/4" mounting flange at opposing sides of the driver), you get 13 13/16", not 14 1/16". I used 13 7/8", and it was a better fit than the overly-loose 14 1/16". As usual, YMMV.
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post #294 of 1138 Old 04-07-2013, 12:05 PM
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Erich;
I'm assembling my 4 cu ft sub flat pack.
I put line marks on the long brace to indicate where the 2 short braces are at 90 deg.

Kaizen:
When you were designing the bracing did you consider to put 1/16" deep x 3/4" wide cut-out on the long brace and then make the 2 short braces 1/16" wider each side of contact too the long brace? (ie a 5/8" gap instead of a 3/4" gap)
The long brace would still be 5/8" thick there, and glue joint would secure everything together strong.
Would eliminate the need to even worry about the short braces being 90deg, they would lock perfectly.
Red lines in mark-up picture shows where I'm talking about.


Would add some time to the CNC routine, that is only downside I can think of.
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post #295 of 1138 Old 04-07-2013, 01:07 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtbdudex View Post

Erich;
I'm assembling my 4 cu ft sub flat pack.
I put line marks on the long brace to indicate where the 2 short braces are at 90 deg.

Kaizen:
When you were designing the bracing did you consider to put 1/16" deep x 3/4" wide cut-out on the long brace and then make the 2 short braces 1/16" wider each side of contact too the long brace? (ie a 5/8" gap instead of a 3/4" gap)
The long brace would still be 5/8" thick there, and glue joint would secure everything together strong.
Would eliminate the need to even worry about the short braces being 90deg, they would lock perfectly.
Red lines in mark-up picture shows where I'm talking about.

Would add some time to the CNC routine, that is only downside I can think of.

I'm not sure I understand what your describing. Everything does lock together okay.

The wood is 3/4" thick. Everything gets cut out of the same sheet, so the thickness is the same for all pieces. And the CNC can only cut on one side of the panel. If you're talking about putting notches on the sides of a brace, they can only be on one side of the brace. If the braces are cut wider, you couldn't line them up easily with the rabbet joints. I'm not sure if that helps or not.
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post #296 of 1138 Old 04-07-2013, 05:01 PM
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Erich;

The long brace locks 90deg to the rear in both planes via the cuts and then the 2 smaller braces, however the 2 smaller braces can move side to side and not be 90 deg, I had about 1/4" of play both ways off true 90deg.
See my image below, I put drywall screw temp there to hold each small brace @ 90 deg.

Not a major issue, just a simple kaizen.
In reality only 1 side would need a 1/8" x 3/4" channel, and if you then did it such that it's in the bottom 1/2 then stopped then it would also be a poka-yoke for assembly.

There would be no increased gap, the long brace would have the cut out while the small brace would have more material (less CNC cut out on it) for the matching area, leave 1/16" gap at translation for tolerance.
It would lock then like rigid egg crate.

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post #297 of 1138 Old 04-07-2013, 06:19 PM
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Are flat packs still available for the Exodus Anarchy 6.5" 25hz tapped horn? If so, will someone please post a link?
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post #298 of 1138 Old 04-07-2013, 07:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael Mitten View Post

Are flat packs still available for the Exodus Anarchy 6.5" 25hz tapped horn? If so, will someone please post a link?

if he doesn't i could sell u one i don't plan to build
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post #299 of 1138 Old 04-08-2013, 09:02 AM - Thread Starter
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The Anarchy boxes were sold out quite some time ago. I'm not sure how long it will be before another batch is made up.


Here are some drawings of the future 4 cuft ported box. It will also be used for dual opposed 12's and I suppose a sealed 15" model. I couldn't figure out a better way to do the internal bracing and still keep it nice and easy and fool proof. This box uses dual 3" Precision Ports. There might be a similar layout with a bigger box for dual opposed 18's or 15's, and a ported 15" with dual 4" ports. I'm a little worried on demand, price, and shipping fees for such a big box.

Pardon the color scheme, I didn't do that. biggrin.gif





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post #300 of 1138 Old 04-08-2013, 10:21 AM
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Looks nice. Would that work for a ported 15 or just 12
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