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post #181 of 1078 Old 02-24-2013, 07:05 PM
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You could do pretty decent down to about 30hz with a single sealed 15, even in a room that size. Ported would definitely work better though.
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post #182 of 1078 Old 02-24-2013, 08:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MNaudioguy View Post

I can only imagine, it looks like he has a lot going on with just the current workload, it looks awesome. Would a 15' sealed sub still benefit me in my big space? I was thinking of the 3.5 cubic box being sold

Yeah Erich, we want the 3.5 for 15's. Pretty please?! Anybody else want the 3.5? Let Erich know, and maybe he'll do it.

Erich, it just occurred to me.....The 3.5 could also be offered as a dual-opposed for two 12's, couldn't it? Cut baffles for both ends, and voila! The narrow 18" width would be great for the 12" driver (less space between the edge of the driver's mounting flange and the edge of the baffle, making for a stiffer mounting surface), and isn't the internal volume of a 3.5 real good for opposing 12's? Just a thought. Yeah, like you need more requests!
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post #183 of 1078 Old 02-28-2013, 01:15 PM
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Hi Erich,

You're doing such an awesome job for the DIY community.

On your site, the 1.5 cu/ft subwoofer box has a baffle cut for the 10" Titanic. In the description you asked if anyone had suggestions for other baffle cuts.

I'd love to get that box with a cutout for the Dayton RSS315HF 12". A PE tech said 1.5 is an ideal box size for this driver.

I'm assuming the RSHF will get down lower than the 10" Titanic--but correct me if I'm wrong.

Thanks!
DAn

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post #184 of 1078 Old 02-28-2013, 02:23 PM - Thread Starter
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I've got the 15.5" cube made for the RS 12 sitting here now but haven't had time to get it all listed. I think there's about 4 models not listed, maybe 5.

I'm almost caught up on shipping all the initial orders for the 4 cuft and 3 cuft boxes. It's been pretty rough this past 2 weeks, but it's almost done. I've taken well over 4000 lbs worth of sub boxes to FedEx in the past 2 weeks.
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post #185 of 1078 Old 02-28-2013, 04:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Erich H View Post

I've got the 15.5" cube made for the RS 12 sitting here now but haven't had time to get it all listed.

How large do you have the outside diameter cut to on that? I am curious what other 12's will fit in there. The Infinity 1260w would work well in the 15.5" cube. Infinity says the outside diameter is 12.375", and PE lists the Dayton at 12.36". I can't imagine that 15/100's of an inch would matter. I guess a touch of sanding could make it fit if nothing else.
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post #186 of 1078 Old 03-02-2013, 07:14 PM
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Got my flats today!!

Thanks Erich! Awesomely packed! So far everything looks great! Now just have to wait for 3 more months for the SI drivers to be shipped! rolleyes.gif

Do you need any of this packing material back? Hate to just throw it away when you could probably reuse it.

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Subs: Pair of SI D4 18's 4 cuft sealed
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post #187 of 1078 Old 03-03-2013, 01:33 PM
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Anyone know what the depth size is for the 1cu ft box? Would the CSS SDX12 be too deep 8.75"
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post #188 of 1078 Old 03-04-2013, 09:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gtpsuper24 View Post

Anyone know what the depth size is for the 1cu ft box? Would the CSS SDX12 be too deep 8.75"

I don't know how large that brace is at the back, but without the brace you only have 3.125" of clearance. You want some space behind the back of the driver to allow the vent to dissipate heat. It seems to me that a 1ft^3 box might be a little tight even if the driver will physically fit in the box. IMO, you are better off with the 1.5 box.
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post #189 of 1078 Old 03-04-2013, 12:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brianjb View Post

I don't know how large that brace is at the back, but without the brace you only have 3.125" of clearance. You want some space behind the back of the driver to allow the vent to dissipate heat. It seems to me that a 1ft^3 box might be a little tight even if the driver will physically fit in the box. IMO, you are better off with the 1.5 box.

After looking at the 1ft^3 box it does look like it would be a tight fit. I emailed CSS last weeking asking what sized sealed box and power would work for the SDX12 in car audio setup:
Hi,
Thanks for the inquiry. We haven't released the final specs yet but here's a preliminary model for the SDX12 sealed:
First, sealed – The woofer isn’t optimized for sealed in a home setting, but will work. Mounted in a 1 cu ft enclosure it has a Qtc of .66 and an F3 of 32 Hz. The F10 is 19.8 Hz, so with room gain, and with music, it could make a very nice small sealed subwoofer. However, if you put it in a car in this size box, the cabin gain of a vehicle could make it flat to sub 20Hz range. Could be a very powerful car sub if someone wants flat response instead of that boomy stuff you hear these days.
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post #190 of 1078 Old 03-05-2013, 04:15 AM
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Hi, Erich. When you get a chance, I sent you a PM and a couple messages on your website using the 'Contact Us' feature. I just want to make sure I obtain 2 of the 4 cu ft flat packs for the SI subwoofer. Thanks.

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post #191 of 1078 Old 03-06-2013, 12:42 PM
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Will any of the boxes work with the SI 15" sub?

"Dang! You got shocks, pegs... lucky! You ever take it off any sweet jumps? "

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post #192 of 1078 Old 03-06-2013, 12:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cburbs View Post

Will any of the boxes work with the SI 15" sub?
The 3 cu ft will, I got mine last Sat.


Sent from my 32GB iPhone4 using Tapatalk
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post #193 of 1078 Old 03-06-2013, 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by cburbs View Post

Will any of the boxes work with the SI 15" sub?

The 3 cu.ft. would be best with about 700 watts of power. Choose the option for the Dayton Titanic. It shares the same cutout diameter as the SI-15. If you have room, you could go larger and use less power. If you don't have a lot of room you could go as small as the 2.25cu.ft. and ask Erich if he can cut you a larger baffle, but you would need to increase the power to 1000w.
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post #194 of 1078 Old 03-07-2013, 11:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brianjb View Post

The 3 cu.ft. would be best with about 700 watts of power. Choose the option for the Dayton Titanic. It shares the same cutout diameter as the SI-15. If you have room, you could go larger and use less power. If you don't have a lot of room you could go as small as the 2.25cu.ft. and ask Erich if he can cut you a larger baffle, but you would need to increase the power to 1000w.

Great info to know - thanks!

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post #195 of 1078 Old 03-08-2013, 08:58 AM
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Erich, I sent you a PM earlier this week - did you remember to ship my driver? thanks.
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post #196 of 1078 Old 03-11-2013, 06:29 PM
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Erich, one of the terminals got stripped, can you send me another pair along with the SI driver? Sorry to send multiple messages but I'm finishing up on the last 4 boxes and desperately need the driver and another terminal.

thanks!
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post #197 of 1078 Old 03-12-2013, 08:40 AM
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Erich...received my two 4 cu ft flat packs. No problems with shipping. All in good shape.
Perhaps a piece of tape over the ziploc with the terminals to keep it from sliding all over inside the big box with future shipments?

Thanks for providing this AIY opportunity. It appears you are fast becoming the IKEA of the DIY speaker/sub community!
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post #198 of 1078 Old 03-12-2013, 03:58 PM - Thread Starter
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Carp, the driver was shipped yesterday. Had I known about you man handling those binding posts, I would have thrown one in the box. You're the first person to overtighten one and actually strip the darn thing. Ease up man.......ease up!

blah450, I'm glad everything arrived in good shape.



Just a quick heads up, I'm working on a subwoofer box design for a nice ported 12" woofer in a 4 cuft box. Tuning can get pretty low. It will have dual 3" Precision Ports. I think the box was something like 18" wide, 19" tall, and 28" deep. It took a while to get this box really easy to assemble. But the good news is that it will also work very well as a dual opposed 12" model (sealed). And dual 12's mounted vertically on the front baffle as well. I suppose I could also get baffles made for a sealed 15". biggrin.gif

The only issue is that it weighs about 2lbs more than the current 4cuft for the 18". Those were 67lbs. So we're right on the line of 70lbs and FedEx jacks up rates at 70lbs. So I need to tweak the shipping box and maybe open up the braces a little more to make sure we're right around 69lbs.

For a ported 12", it looks mean. I made it for the 12" Ultimax, but others could work just fine.

I also got some 3cuft boxes for the 15" Dayton DVC (or MFW). But not many at all. They were cut on the ends of that other 3cuft order. Maybe 10 total.
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post #199 of 1078 Old 03-12-2013, 04:32 PM
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post #200 of 1078 Old 03-12-2013, 04:41 PM
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It wasn't over tightening Erich, and it was my fault if anyones! I drill a 1/4 inch hole and then tighten a nut on the inside to pull the knurled part into the box and seat it. It's way way easier than the hammering nonsense I saw in a lot of the comments on the PE site, at least in MDF. I'm not sure what happened with this one (bad component, pressure somewhere I wasn't aware of, who knows) but turning the nut actually completely removed some of the threads in the middle of the post so there was a threadless section and thus, no more screwy tighty. Anyways, it's certainly the first time I've seen anything like that in doing 8 pairs of them now.
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post #201 of 1078 Old 03-12-2013, 04:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carp View Post

Erich, one of the terminals got stripped, can you send me another pair along with the SI driver? Sorry to send multiple messages but I'm finishing up on the last 4 boxes and desperately need the driver and another terminal.

thanks!

Carp, I bought a couple pairs of these from Erich when I got my flat packs. I ended up using speakons instead though so if that's what you need, I'll throw a pair in the mail to you. If so, PM me with your address and I should be able to swing by the post office tomorrow.
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post #202 of 1078 Old 03-12-2013, 05:08 PM
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Erich, I have a TC Epic12 driver and a Dayton 500 watt plate amp, I would like to do a sealed box. Do you have a box for this combo? Let me know, I would like to order one if you do. Thanks
Mario
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post #203 of 1078 Old 03-12-2013, 05:25 PM
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I used the 2.25 cu foot box for my epic 12 build. I just mentioned it to him before I ordered and he cut the baffle to the right size for me. smile.gif
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post #204 of 1078 Old 03-12-2013, 05:51 PM
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Thanks Rebel, did you use a plate amp in the box?
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post #205 of 1078 Old 03-12-2013, 06:35 PM
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I vote EricH and his DIY Sound Group "AVS Lifetime Achievement Award" winners!

Took me 10 minutes to un-pack and get my 3 cu ft sub box dry fit and tape together.
Tomorrow I'll glue/tape and use 8 clamps to hold it together - just to go w/o brad nails, my thinking is this:
step 1: bottom, glue where braces go
step 2: install braces to bottom
step 3: glue on braces edge to side panels edge, glue on bottom to side edges,
step 4a, 4b, 4c, 4d glue on each side, install, repeat for other 3 sides
step 5: tape box together w/o lower front baffle on
step 6: use 8 2 ft clamps, lightly clamp box
step 7: apply glue to sides where lower front baffle fits
step 8: install lower front baffle , secure with tape, adj clamps as needed
step 9: put weights on lower front baffle to force good fit all 4 sides to bottom and top
>>At this point only the top finish baffle is not glued, let dry overnight
step 10: glue top finish baffle to lower front baffle, tape in place, weights on top

That's the easiest way to make a box!
Great Engineering job DIY Sound Group team.
Lot's of surface area for good glue joints.

Picts of tonight's dry fit
10 minutes to do this
.
Double top baffle plates removed to show nice fit inside

With the other clamps this is about what it should look like after step 9 - with weights there to ensure nice fit all 4 sides to bottom and top


As I type realize need to add screw mtg scheme for 15" driver & Binding posts, I'll add those step's to the above .....
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post #206 of 1078 Old 03-12-2013, 07:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Modicen View Post

Thanks Rebel, did you use a plate amp in the box?



No, I am using a NU3000DSP. I've been happy with the Epic12, but this website is making me wonder what 4 x 18" subs would be like. Unfortunately (or fortunately?), I can't afford it. tongue.gif
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post #207 of 1078 Old 03-12-2013, 08:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by benunc View Post

Carp, I bought a couple pairs of these from Erich when I got my flat packs. I ended up using speakons instead though so if that's what you need, I'll throw a pair in the mail to you. If so, PM me with your address and I should be able to swing by the post office tomorrow.

Very cool, thanks so much for the offer. I did order a pair from parts express that already shipped today so I'm good but I really appreciate the fact that you would have been willing to do that. smile.gif
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post #208 of 1078 Old 03-12-2013, 08:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtbdudex View Post

I vote EricH and his DIY Sound Group "AVS Lifetime Achievement Award" winners!

Took me 10 minutes to un-pack and get my 3 cu ft sub box dry fit and tape together.
Tomorrow I'll glue/tape and use 8 clamps to hold it together - just to go w/o brad nails, my thinking is this:
step 1: bottom, glue where braces go
step 2: install braces to bottom
step 3: glue on braces edge to side panels edge, glue on bottom to side edges,
step 4a, 4b, 4c, 4d glue on each side, install, repeat for other 3 sides
step 5: tape box together w/o lower front baffle on
step 6: use 8 2 ft clamps, lightly clamp box
step 7: apply glue to sides where lower front baffle fits
step 8: install lower front baffle , secure with tape, adj clamps as needed
step 9: put weights on lower front baffle to force good fit all 4 sides to bottom and top
>>At this point only the top finish baffle is not glued, let dry overnight
step 10: glue top finish baffle to lower front baffle, tape in place, weights on top


The easiest way is to glue the braces to the rear panel first. Make sure they stay inside the rabbet joints. Wipe off any excess glue that squishes into those outer rabbet joints.

Then glue on the top and bottom. Again, make sure the panels stay inside the rabbet joints like the braces did.

Then glue on one side panel. You can glue on both side panels, but it will be harder to fit the inner baffle in, and also harder to keep the glue where you want it because you'd have to be put a bead of glue on a vertical piece, which would obviously start running.

The easiest thing is to actually glue the inner baffle on before that second side panel is installed. Gluing is easier and placement is easier.

After that, now glue up the other side panel. It might have to be tapped into place depending on how hard you clamp things and line them up in the other steps. Dry fit this piece first to make sure it fits okay.

Last is gluing on the outer baffle. If you're worried about lining it all up, you can always drill your woofer mounting holes through both baffles prior to adding glue. Why you glue them up, the screw holes can help you line things up. I actually use small 6" clamps around the woofer cut out, then brad nail directly where the woofer will be seated.....you won't see the brad nails after the woofer is installed.
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post #209 of 1078 Old 03-12-2013, 08:21 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrSmithers View Post

It wasn't over tightening Erich, and it was my fault if anyones! I drill a 1/4 inch hole and then tighten a nut on the inside to pull the knurled part into the box and seat it. It's way way easier than the hammering nonsense I saw in a lot of the comments on the PE site, at least in MDF. I'm not sure what happened with this one (bad component, pressure somewhere I wasn't aware of, who knows) but turning the nut actually completely removed some of the threads in the middle of the post so there was a threadless section and thus, no more screwy tighty. Anyways, it's certainly the first time I've seen anything like that in doing 8 pairs of them now.

I was just kidding. biggrin.gif

Tightening the small nut on the binding post to pull it through the mdf would be pretty tough on those small threads and nuts. Ideally you would unscrew that back portion and tap them into place, then put the washers and nuts on. It goes pretty quick. I just lay a piece of wood or a towel over the binding post and tap it in with a couple hits.

I would've put another pair in the woofer box carp send me when I shipped it back, but I forgot that I shipped it the day before he mentioned it.
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post #210 of 1078 Old 03-13-2013, 06:33 AM
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Erich,
Tried to leave you some great feedback this morning on your site about the 4 cu ft flat packs I received.
Sent you a message via your contact fields on your site telling you that I did not see any sub-woofer flat packs page on your site anymore???

Send me a PM if you'd like.
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