Kappa Perfect Subwoofer Build - AVS Forum
Forum Jump: 
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #1 of 44 Old 01-02-2012, 03:41 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
DankNuggz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Virginia
Posts: 45
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Just ordered a Dayton SA240 240w plate amplifier http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=300-804

I plan on building an enclosure for an Infinity Kappa Perfect 12.1 http://www.crutchfield.com/S-iYEj8X7...ml#details-tab

My current subwoofer is an old Cerwin-Vega! that I can't find any info on, but
its a 10" sub and probably 100 watts. It sounds like **** on music, and does ok on movies.
My goal on the new sub is a flat response from 20hz-80hz

I found plans for a 12" Infinity Kappa VQ MidQ build http://forums.audioholics.com/forums...idq-plans.html

here are the specs for the Kappa VQ MidQ http://www.crutchfield.com/S-dAWz3Fl...fo#details-tab

First question is will the plans for the VQ MidQ work for the perfect 12.1 ?
The box is 4 cubes tuned to 20hz----and they power it with an EP2500 amp

Also do I need a crossover or does the plate amp do it all?
I know it has a low pass on it, but do I need to protect it from frequencies below 20hz?-----I was looking for terminal plates and seen some with built in crossovers, and it made me wonder.

Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.
Will be posting pics during and after build.



Home Theater:
TV: Dynex 42" 1080i LCD
Reciever: pioneer VSX-920 7.1
Fronts: Energy Veritas 2.3i
Center: Mirage OM-C2HB-1
Rears: Sony SS-MB300H
Surrounds: Sony SS-MB100H
Subwoofers: Cerwin Vega ARPHS-2004-5
Sony SA-WMS230
HTPC-Intel corei7 ,bluray ,Nvidia 260gtx, windows7, 4gb DDR3 , solid-state HD

1st Build-
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
DankNuggz is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 44 Old 01-02-2012, 03:43 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
DankNuggz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Virginia
Posts: 45
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Can't post links until my post count is 3

1st Build-
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
DankNuggz is offline  
post #3 of 44 Old 01-02-2012, 03:52 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
DankNuggz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Virginia
Posts: 45
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Also any wood suggestions

At first, I was thinking MDF Piano black to match my fronts and center,
but it seems like alot of time and money.

Then I thought like a cherry plywood --but I think I would have to mitre everything for it to look good-----then I wasn't sure of the accoustics of
the plywood with a subwoofer-----I have more a car audio backround, and MDF
IMO has sounded the best.

So I thought I would build it out of MDF , veneer it, and stain it espresso---
I think this is the easiest, and cheapest of the three.

Any suggestions?

1st Build-
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
DankNuggz is offline  
post #4 of 44 Old 01-02-2012, 05:11 PM
AVS Special Member
 
flyng_fool's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Frisco, TX
Posts: 3,425
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 71
Most guys veneer MDF.

Dumb enough to spend lots of cash on this junk!
flyng_fool is offline  
post #5 of 44 Old 01-02-2012, 06:37 PM
Member
 
iGuitar93's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Posts: 61
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
You could also use 11ply birch ply and stain it. Then after stain some lacquer and polish and it would look great. Quality birch ply (not birch ply from home depot/lowes) is easy to work with and is good for speakers. It also is lighter than mdf.
iGuitar93 is offline  
post #6 of 44 Old 01-04-2012, 11:24 AM
Member
 
Zardnok's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 154
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by DankNuggz View Post

Hello AVS. I have recently been getting into Home Theater, and wanted to build

a powered subwoofer to replace (or add to) my current sub. I have an old car

subwoofer that I would like to use, and I purchased a Dayton SA240 plate amp.

I posted this on another site, but haven't got much response.

Just ordered a Dayton SA240 240w plate amplifier http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=300-804

I plan on building an enclosure for an Infinity Kappa Perfect 12.1 http://www.crutchfield.com/S-iYEj8X7...ml#details-tab

My current subwoofer is an old Cerwin-Vega! that I can't find any info on, but
its a 10" sub and probably 100 watts. It sounds like **** on music, and does ok on movies.
My goal on the new sub is a flat response from 20hz-80hz

I found plans for a 12" Infinity Kappa VQ MidQ build http://forums.audioholics.com/forums...idq-plans.html

here are the specs for the Kappa VQ MidQ http://www.crutchfield.com/S-dAWz3Fl...fo#details-tab

First question is will the plans for the VQ MidQ work for the perfect 12.1 ?
The box is 4 cubes tuned to 20hz----and they power it with an EP2500 amp

Also do I need a crossover or does the plate amp do it all?
I know it has a low pass on it, but do I need to protect it from frequencies below 20hz?-----I was looking for terminal plates and seen some with built in crossovers, and it made me wonder.

Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.
Will be posting pics during and after build.



Home Theater:
TV: Dynex 42" 1080i LCD
Reciever: pioneer VSX-920 7.1
Fronts: Energy Veritas 2.3i
Center: Mirage OM-C2HB-1
Rears: Sony SS-MB300H
Surrounds: Sony SS-MB100H
Subwoofers: Cerwin Vega ARPHS-2004-5
Sony SA-WMS230
HTPC-Intel corei7 ,bluray ,Nvidia 260gtx, windows7, 4gb DDR3 , solid-state HD

A few comments first, I have an Infinity Kappa Perfect VQ in 4.3 ft^3 tuned at 19 hz that sounds awesome off half an EP2500. I saw avaserfi's build thread after I bought my 12s and considered that design before I went with my end-table design. I would imagine the sound is quite similar.

My cabinet is 18"W X 22"T X28"D with a 7" X 3" slot port that runs along the bottom and half way up the back. I built the port as a separate "L" out of MDF and nailed it in as one piece. Then used a cut off bit to open each face plate with a final round-over for the outer edge.

I used an Oak plywood for mine, but did not spend near enough time sanding before I applied a stain. This cabinet was more of a "test" box anyways, so I didn't worry too much at the time, but 18 months later, it is still in the corner by the loveseat and I am wishing I had spent more time finishing it out. I have another VQ12 in my truck that needs to move to the living room soon, so maybe when I build the matching cabinet, I can do two and finish them both off properly and donate my current cabinet to my son.

Things I would do differently, I would use an 11-ply Birch instead of the Oak I spent more money on. I would spend much more time sanding, because the stain shows every minor scratch, or at least the one I used does. I would use the same cabinet design, but do a 3rd face so I can inset the woofer and maintain double face integrity. I would also do the port out of the same wood as the cabinet, because staining the MDF port is butt ugly!

As for your specific questions, those woofers are close enough that you can use the same cabinet design. If anything, the 12.1 prefers a slightly smaller cabinet than the VQ design, so you could shrink it if needed. The great thing about DIY is you should not feel restricted by a specific design. If you have a space in your home to dedicate to a sub, adjust the cabinet accordingly. My end-table cabinet is the size it is because that is the area between my loveseat and the window. I adjusted the dimensions a bit, but it fills that functional space.

The Dayton SA240 has an adjustable low-pass cross-over built in as well as a 20hz high-pass filter to protect vented cabinets. I would not tune the cabinet below 20.

Best of luck with your build.
Zardnok is offline  
post #7 of 44 Old 01-04-2012, 02:58 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
DankNuggz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Virginia
Posts: 45
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Thanks for the reply Zardnok.

Got any pics of your sub?

I think I will probably be building it out of MDF, veneer it , stain it espresso, and

add some toner to darken it. the port I will just spray paint black.

1st Build-
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
DankNuggz is offline  
post #8 of 44 Old 01-04-2012, 03:19 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
DankNuggz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Virginia
Posts: 45
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
As far as the 11-ply birch----why do people recommend this?

I ask this because I've been a cabinet maker for the last 10 years,

and all of the 11-ply plywood that I deal with, is always a "C" or "D" grade----

---the "B" and "A" grades we use have 5-plys

the 11-ply warps easier, it has voids in the plys, and occasionally de-laminates.

its also not a true 3/4"--its like 11/16".

the only 11-plys we have used have been white birch and red birch, any other

species wood has been 5-ply b or a grade.

We can get the 11-plys for like $30 a sheet vs. like $90 a sheet of "B" grade.

We get most of our wood from Wurth Wood Group.

I have heard people say more plys equals stronger wood-----after building

kitchen cabinets for the last 10 years, I don't agree with that.

OSB is stronger than plywood, but I wouldn't build a speaker box out of it.

Maybe I haven't ran across the right 11-ply plywood.

1st Build-
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
DankNuggz is offline  
post #9 of 44 Old 01-04-2012, 06:05 PM
AVS Special Member
 
flyng_fool's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Frisco, TX
Posts: 3,425
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Liked: 71
A good baltic birch ply doesn't have all those voids.

Dumb enough to spend lots of cash on this junk!
flyng_fool is offline  
post #10 of 44 Old 01-05-2012, 10:42 AM
Member
 
Zardnok's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2007
Posts: 154
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by DankNuggz View Post

Thanks for the reply Zardnok.

Got any pics of your sub?

I think I will probably be building it out of MDF, veneer it , stain it espresso, and

add some toner to darken it. the port I will just spray paint black.

The camera with my build pics was stolen out of the wife's car, so unfortunately no pics. I can see about grabbing the wife's camera when she gets home and snapping a few completed shots and posting them for you.
Zardnok is offline  
post #11 of 44 Old 01-05-2012, 08:23 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
DankNuggz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Virginia
Posts: 45
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Plate amp just came in.

I got the sub in a pre-fab Bassworx box 1.65cf tuned to 42hz to test it out, and for $99,

you can't beat this amp. I can't wait to hear it in the new box.

Probably start on it next week.




1st Build-
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
DankNuggz is offline  
post #12 of 44 Old 01-08-2012, 03:41 AM
Newbie
 
daddywoofdawg's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 5
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
There's cr@ppy birch ply like at home depot,and then there is a high grade/cabinet grade 11-15 ply birch ply.I know just what your saying about the ply most of it is Cr@p,but if you see some of the good stuff you'll understand.look at some of the pictures of some of the builds and you'll see the difference.
daddywoofdawg is offline  
post #13 of 44 Old 01-09-2012, 03:09 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
DankNuggz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Virginia
Posts: 45
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I got a FREE sheet of MDF today at work!

It was a cover sheet for some other sheet goods. Its a little beat up on one

side, but nothing a little bondo can't handle.

I changed my mind on the finish after pricing wood veneer. The price I would

pay for veneer, I could just put toward a piano black finish to match my

fronts and center channel.

1st Build-
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
DankNuggz is offline  
post #14 of 44 Old 01-09-2012, 03:33 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
DankNuggz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Virginia
Posts: 45
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Any tips for the piano black finish?

Never done anything high gloss at work, normally all satin. My plans were to

sand the piss out of it, put a couple coats of black lacquer and a few coats

of satin----our sprayer said if you leave the can of satin overnight all of the

resins sink to the bottom, and you could use the clear on top as a high gloss.

If this works, I won't have to buy high gloss lacquer

I have to build a small box for the plate amp, so I'll see how that turns out,

before I do the sub box.

1st Build-
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
DankNuggz is offline  
post #15 of 44 Old 01-09-2012, 04:07 PM
Advanced Member
 
omegaslast's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 883
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 18
Ive yet to see anyone DIY a piano black finish without significant orange peel.

edit: well, ive seen very minimized orange peel (still has a lot of hazing though), but none WITHOUT orange peel.

//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
omegaslast is offline  
post #16 of 44 Old 01-09-2012, 04:31 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
DankNuggz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Virginia
Posts: 45
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by omegaslast View Post

Ive yet to see anyone DIY a piano black finish without significant orange peel.

edit: well, ive seen very minimized orange peel (still has a lot of hazing though), but none WITHOUT orange peel.

I don't expect it to look as good as my Veritas or my Mirage Center, but the

sprayer I work with is the best sprayer I've seen (seen at least 20 come and go)

and we have a pretty nice spray system, only concern is technique.


1st Build-
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
DankNuggz is offline  
post #17 of 44 Old 01-09-2012, 04:36 PM
AVS Addicted Member
 
LTD02's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 16,454
Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 345 Post(s)
Liked: 1025
this guy got good results piano finish:

http://www.htguide.com/forum/showthr...0&page=1&pp=35

teaser:


LL

Listen. It's All Good.
LTD02 is offline  
post #18 of 44 Old 01-09-2012, 04:45 PM
AVS Addicted Member
 
LTD02's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 16,454
Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 345 Post(s)
Liked: 1025
"First question is will the plans for the VQ MidQ work for the perfect 12.1 ?
The box is 4 cubes tuned to 20hz----and they power it with an EP2500 amp"

winisd happens to have the t/s specs for this driver preloaded.

4 cubes tuned to 20hz works nicely.

with 350 watts, you will get 110db in 2pi space. the driver will hit xmax at 110db at ~28hz with 350 watts.

1/2 of an ep2500/4000 could be a little much for the driver, but if you have some idea of what you are doing, it is fine.

what are you using for a high pass in order to protect the driver?
LL

Listen. It's All Good.
LTD02 is offline  
post #19 of 44 Old 01-10-2012, 03:28 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
DankNuggz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Virginia
Posts: 45
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
I need some OC705----at least thats what the original designer recommends.
Quote:


You will want to get some OC705 or 8lb Rock wool to place inside the cabinet. Use a 4" piece wrapped in cloth (to eliminate chances of pieces being blown out the port) and glue it (using 3m Spray 77) to the large brace.

Would there be much difference if I used OC703?

I found thishttp://www.atsacoustics.com/item--AT...rd--AB2-S.html

It says its identical to 703----and is a 24 x 48 x 2 inch piece.--The guy says
glue it to the large brace which is 16.5 x 21

Do I cut 2 pieces, and glue them together to equal the 4"--or was he referring
to the rock wool?


He says to wrap it in cloth?--was that the rock wool or both(oc705)?

1st Build-
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
DankNuggz is offline  
post #20 of 44 Old 01-10-2012, 03:34 PM
Advanced Member
 
omegaslast's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 883
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post

this guy got good results piano finish:

http://www.htguide.com/forum/showthr...0&page=1&pp=35

teaser:


Oh yeah, i saw that, and i was hoping the guy had stumbled upon some secret technique but then i remember reading his process

"I sanded the primer with 220 and had to apply automotive spot putty in a few areas. Then another round of primer and final sand with 320. Finish was DuPont Lucite "Diamond Black" automotive acrylic lacquer. I shot three medium-wet coats which pretty much emptied the quart that I bought (thinned about 100% to 17sec viscosity). I gave it a week to dry and shrink, then color sanded with 600, then 1200. I used paint thinner as a lubricant because I'm paranoid about getting water around MDF. DuPont 606S white polishing compound gave it a final finish, although probably any decent rubbing/polishing compound would work. Be careful not to rub through the finish on the corners, although the 1/2" roundover really helps minimize that danger. "

Im just going to hazard a guess and say he has a lot of time around paint guns and paint booths

//////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
omegaslast is offline  
post #21 of 44 Old 01-11-2012, 04:35 AM - Thread Starter
Member
 
DankNuggz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Virginia
Posts: 45
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by DankNuggz View Post

I need some OC705----at least thats what the original designer recommends.


Would there be much difference if I used OC703?

I found thishttp://www.atsacoustics.com/item--AT...rd--AB2-S.html

It says its identical to 703----and is a 24 x 48 x 2 inch piece.--The guy says
glue it to the large brace which is 16.5 x 21

Do I cut 2 pieces, and glue them together to equal the 4"--or was he referring
to the rock wool?


He says to wrap it in cloth?--was that the rock wool or both(oc705)?



Could anyone tell me if this will work?

1st Build-
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
DankNuggz is offline  
post #22 of 44 Old 01-11-2012, 05:38 AM
Member
 
josephjcole's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: wisconsin
Posts: 19
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
For dampening inside a sub I doubt it matters if you use OC703, OC705 or rock wool. Also as long as this is all going inside the sub I don't see any reason to wrap it in cloth.
josephjcole is offline  
post #23 of 44 Old 01-14-2012, 05:18 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
DankNuggz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Virginia
Posts: 45
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Just started building a few days ago. I cut out all of the pieces and put a coat of black Magnaclaw pre-cat primer/undercoater, and 2 coats of clear lacquer where the port is.




it was $32.03 from Wurth wood group.





I think it looks decent, and gave me an idea of what to expect. I think I'll play around with a couple of scrap pieces to see how many coats the outside should get.


Off topic, BUT DAMN!! THAT WAS ONE HELL OF A GAME 49ers vs. Saints--Great Finish----Skins fan by the way

1st Build-
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
DankNuggz is offline  
post #24 of 44 Old 01-14-2012, 07:22 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
DankNuggz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Virginia
Posts: 45
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Got a little bit done today...






Hers a pic of our spray guns






Question:Will the pocket holes I drilled affect anything? There are none inside the port.

1st Build-
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
DankNuggz is offline  
post #25 of 44 Old 01-14-2012, 07:32 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
DankNuggz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Virginia
Posts: 45
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Would have had it all put together, but I couldnt find all the pieces to my Bosch circle jig-----Went to Lowes, and they had a Milescraft 1223 Router guide kit on sale for $23---http://www.amazon.com/Milescraft-122.../dp/B004OCH224

Don't know if it was just the Lowes in my area, but its a good deal, and I thought I would let anyone interested know.

1st Build-
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
DankNuggz is offline  
post #26 of 44 Old 01-15-2012, 05:58 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
DankNuggz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Virginia
Posts: 45
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Got it all together today......Probably should have stayed home, an hours worth of work turned into 5 hours.
Jumped ahead of myself on a few things, and created extra work.


When I got to the shop, the first thing I do is throw the left side and the face on. Forgot all about the bracing and fiberglass board...D'oh!!(in Homer Simpsons voice)





Routed the port and cut the speaker hole out, and was about put the top on, and thought....how am I going to get that fiberglass in?-----D'oh!!!!



This is the stuff from atsacoustics.com



Hope I done this right, I sprayed the 3M 77, stuck two pieces together to equal 4", then sprayed it and stuck T-shirt like material on one side.






It was a pain in the arse putting the braces in with the front baffle already on.



Got everything in, put the top on, rounded over the port, and started to round over the outside edges, and remembered that I wanted to recess the woofer------D'oh!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



Added the extra baffle, and rounded over all the edges.



Bondoed the hell out of out it---because I rounded the port and the top of the cabinet before I put on the 2nd baffle, I have a lot more bondoing and sanding to do------D'oh!!!!!!!!!!


Bondoed and Bondoing......are those even words?

1st Build-
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
DankNuggz is offline  
post #27 of 44 Old 02-08-2012, 05:59 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
DankNuggz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Virginia
Posts: 45
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Finally got a chance to put it in the spray room.
We've been busy at work, so I can only work on it in between jobs when the
spray room is empty.


A couple coats of black, and filled imperfections w/ spot filler.



Sanded it, and put another coat of black on.
You can see where I messed up on the port. I rounded over the port, before I
put the second front baffle on. Had to bondo it and an orbital sander wouldn't fit
in the port hole, so I had to hand sand all of it.
Hopefully, it won't be so noticeable once I get more coats on.






More black, and more spot filler.
The port looks a lot better now.



1st Build-
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
DankNuggz is offline  
post #28 of 44 Old 02-08-2012, 06:08 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
DankNuggz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Virginia
Posts: 45
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Built a box for the plate amp and some wall shelves for my rear surrounds.












I think omegaslast jinxed me!!!
I don't think its going to be very "mirror black", more like a gloss black.
Hopefully more sanding and more clear coats will get the "orange peel" out,
and give it a little more depth.

1st Build-
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
DankNuggz is offline  
post #29 of 44 Old 02-13-2012, 03:59 AM - Thread Starter
Member
 
DankNuggz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Virginia
Posts: 45
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
My ghetto hoist.




1st Build-
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
DankNuggz is offline  
post #30 of 44 Old 02-14-2012, 05:49 PM - Thread Starter
Member
 
DankNuggz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Virginia
Posts: 45
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 10
Got some more pics.

Made some feet for the boxes.
Ordered some rubber feet that I will inset into the feet that I made.









Spray painted them with stainless steel spray paint.









The big feet will go on the sub box, and the little feet will go on the amp box.
I think the feet on the amp box might look funny---if it does, I'll just use the rubber feet.

1st Build-
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
DankNuggz is offline  
Reply DIY Speakers and Subs

User Tag List

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off