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post #61 of 309 Old 02-21-2012, 05:47 PM
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post #62 of 309 Old 02-21-2012, 07:48 PM - Thread Starter
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Keep the DCX. I have 5 of them. I'm sure I can probably help you out if you are having trouble with it. The BFD is a downgrade in capabilities.

Oh big time! I was just under the impression I wouldn't need all that capability with a sealed system. I don't plan on getting rid of it until all has been measured.

Also it was unanimously decided, by me, to run some clearcoat on the stain. Once dried the wood marbling didn't quite pop like it did before it all dried so tonight has been about applying poly. I'm just ready to have these done and installed already!!!

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post #63 of 309 Old 02-22-2012, 08:50 AM - Thread Starter
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Looked at the boxes this morning again on the way out the door. Man they are almost done!! Im going to give them a little closer inspection this evening when I get home, but so far so good. The clearcoat got the cabs back to that nice shine they had while the stain was still wet, so they look like the last picture I posted. With the JTR T-12's sitting atop these, the poly will keep from them scratching into the finish as well I used verathane water based floor finish. This stuff dries as hard as diamonds and really works awesome for hardwood floors, so I knew it would be perfect for my use here

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post #64 of 309 Old 02-23-2012, 07:48 AM - Thread Starter
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Well, the boxes still had a little drying to do so I couldnt get them going last night. As soon as I get home this evening I will be stuffing them and taking em down though! I can't wait to fire these guys up!!

Do you guys think I should use 100% polyfill? I was thinking about just stuffing the cabinet up to the center crossbrace and leaving the rest of the cab clear so the driver has more room to breath. OR I could scratch the polyfill and use R13? what do ya think?

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post #65 of 309 Old 02-23-2012, 07:54 AM
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Oh man! This is as bad as a television game show that keeps going to a commercial before revealing the answer. Patience is difficult but necessary with this hobby I suppose....
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post #66 of 309 Old 02-23-2012, 08:06 AM
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I would just put 2 or 3 cheap poly fill pillows from W-Mart in each and call it good.
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post #67 of 309 Old 02-23-2012, 08:16 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keager View Post

Oh man! This is as bad as a television game show that keeps going to a commercial before revealing the answer. Patience is difficult but necessary with this hobby I suppose....

Haha, My bad keager. Ive just gotten myself in trouble rushing other builds and not liking the finished product. patience is a virtue

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I would just put 2 or 3 cheap poly fill pillows from W-Mart in each and call it good.

I have about 15 pounds of polyfill already, so I was going to use that maybe I will just stuff about 6 pounds (two 50 oz. bags) of it in the rear of the cabinet behind the center brace and call it? It should stay away from the cab completely there.

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post #68 of 309 Old 02-24-2012, 08:14 AM - Thread Starter
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Well last night was terrible. It started out with mounting the subs, only to find out the cutout diameter was definitely off from the specs so I had to route both of the holes out so the drivers would fit. So after some work I was finally able to fit the subs in. got everything looking kosher and wheeled each of them down to the theater and got them all situated in their respective spots. after running audyssey and level matching, adding 5db on the subs, I sat down to have a listen. Now I know these need breaking in, and I know I have to eq them properly to get what I want out of them, but that is quite hard to do when your boxes are leaking like a siv. I found several voids in the wood that were letting air out on the front baffle. Three tubes of PL, two sheets of crappy oak plywood and a week's worth of nights cutting, staining and sealing later, every bit of wind is out of my sails right now. I know im not a good woodworker, but I took all the precautions necessary to make sure that this box was sealed tight, but theres really nothing you can do when there are voids in your wood. What a bunch of SH..ut your mouth. This may be my official retirement post from box building.

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post #69 of 309 Old 02-24-2012, 09:11 AM
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Sorry that you are having issues with your enclosures. I have been in the planning stages for building a box for a while.(still waiting on the UXL-18 to come to light) Anyways, in my reading of different box builds I came across one that mentioned applying a coat of fiberglass resin to the interior of the enclosure to seal it. I will be trying this out and thought it may help in your situation.
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post #70 of 309 Old 02-24-2012, 09:28 AM - Thread Starter
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Sorry that you are having issues with your enclosures. I have been in the planning stages for building a box for a while.(still waiting on the UXL-18 to come to light) Anyways, in my reading of different box builds I came across one that mentioned applying a coat of fiberglass resin to the interior of the enclosure to seal it. I will be trying this out and thought it may help in your situation.

that is an excellent suggestion! Thanks!! I actually have a little of experience with fiberglass as I built a sub for my truck using FG back in college. It was the only way to fit a 10w7 under the backseat Im going to try and seal up what I can with another bead of PL inside the enclosure and where i can see the one void on the outside of the box I was thinking of shooting some gorilla glue in there to seal it up as it expands like PL as well. Quite frustrating...

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post #71 of 309 Old 02-24-2012, 09:34 AM - Thread Starter
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Pic anyways. Final placement.
LL

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post #72 of 309 Old 02-24-2012, 09:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post

that is an excellent suggestion! Thanks!! I actually have a little of experience with fiberglass as I built a sub for my truck using FG back in college. It was the only way to fit a 10w7 under the backseat Im going to try and seal up what I can with another bead of PL inside the enclosure and where i can see the one void on the outside of the box I was thinking of shooting some gorilla glue in there to seal it up as it expands like PL as well. Quite frustrating...

You could try a Urethane caulk as well. Should provide you significantly more joint movement than PL Premium. Look for either NP1 or Sherwin Williams Stampede. These are 100% urethane caulks not Urethanized Acrylics. You get 50% joint movement with these two products.
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post #73 of 309 Old 02-24-2012, 10:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post

Pic anyways. Final placement.

Yyyeeaahhhhhh.

What do you think of them so far?

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post #74 of 309 Old 02-24-2012, 11:32 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tgse3 View Post

You could try a Urethane caulk as well. Should provide you significantly more joint movement than PL Premium. Look for either NP1 or Sherwin Williams Stampede. These are 100% urethane caulks not Urethanized Acrylics. You get 50% joint movement with these two products.

What do you mean by joint movement?

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Yyyeeaahhhhhh.

What do you think of them so far?

DEEP is all I can really tell you so far. I didnt get much time to really demo them but it is clearly apparent that I need more power to them than what they are getting right now. Fp14k getting ordered soon. I barely saw the clip lights on the xls5000 and with EQ it ought to be better I would assume but I dont really want to give a full opinion until I get these fully dialed in.

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post #75 of 309 Old 02-24-2012, 12:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post

Well last night was terrible. It started out with mounting the subs, only to find out the cutout diameter was definitely off from the specs so I had to route both of the holes out so the drivers would fit. So after some work I was finally able to fit the subs in. got everything looking kosher and wheeled each of them down to the theater and got them all situated in their respective spots. after running audyssey and level matching, adding 5db on the subs, I sat down to have a listen. Now I know these need breaking in, and I know I have to eq them properly to get what I want out of them, but that is quite hard to do when your boxes are leaking like a siv. I found several voids in the wood that were letting air out on the front baffle.

Hey that wasn't with the dimensions that I gave you was it? 17" frame and 19" frame outer? I cut 1/8" oversized and it always worked for me?

Yeah...I built some boxes before using cheap ply and they leak like hell through the end grain of the panels, voids, etc. Sucks. I always make sure to use good ply anymore.
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post #76 of 309 Old 02-24-2012, 12:19 PM - Thread Starter
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Hey that wasn't with the dimensions that I gave you was it? 17" frame and 19" frame outer? I cut 1/8" oversized and it always worked for me?

Yeah...I built some boxes before using cheap ply and they leak like hell through the end grain of the panels, voids, etc. Sucks. I always make sure to use good ply anymore.

thats exactly what I did, added 1/8 to a 17 inch route. I ended up having to take at least another 1/8 from that, possibly more.

The ply I used was the most expensive they had at lowes is what upsets me here... Ive always used auruco and have never had any issues, but it is even cheaper than this!!! I asked the guy there which was the hardest and he suggested the oak ply. long story short, i have not liked working with it from the getgo, but I pressed on. Now I am regretting it. Should have stuck with the old tried and true auruco. There is nowhere in my area to get baltic birch so it is out of the question.

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post #77 of 309 Old 02-24-2012, 12:36 PM
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With 18" XXX for ~750$, and LMS U for ~900$... I'm curious why we don't see more XXX builds. I would build a dual opposed with the drivers hanging out of the box, such an amazingly beautiful backend design.

 

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post #78 of 309 Old 02-24-2012, 01:10 PM
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Im starting a build in a couple weeks. Drivers will be here monday.
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post #79 of 309 Old 02-24-2012, 01:23 PM
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Quote:
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thats exactly what I did, added 1/8 to a 17 inch route. I ended up having to take at least another 1/8 from that, possibly more.

Sorry about that... 17.125 seemed to work for me but it has been awhile...And I have my homemade jig with a mark for XXX. I'll have to check it anyway.
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post #80 of 309 Old 02-24-2012, 02:25 PM
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Does the DCX split one input to 4 or is it limited to 3?

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post #81 of 309 Old 02-24-2012, 02:28 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Sorry about that... 17.125 seemed to work for me but it has been awhile...And I have my homemade jig with a mark for XXX. I'll have to check it anyway.

I checked the manual, yep, 17.375 so that equates to 3/8's guess they may have made a production change.

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post #82 of 309 Old 02-24-2012, 02:56 PM
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Does the DCX split one input to 4 or is it limited to 3?

Unlike the MiniDSP, the input can be used for whatever output. You can even sum two of the three inputs. Awesome device.

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post #83 of 309 Old 02-24-2012, 03:03 PM
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Unlike the MiniDSP, the input can be used for whatever output. You can even sum two of the three inputs. Awesome device.

So I can run a RCA to XLR cable into the input 1 and then 4 XLR cables to each channel of my amp as one signal? Can I create a low shelf filter with 7 DBS boost per octave below 20hz?

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post #84 of 309 Old 02-24-2012, 03:08 PM
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Quote:
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I checked the manual, yep, 17.375 so that equates to 3/8's guess they may have made a production change.

No that would be me having the figure wrong in my head and giving you bad advice. My fault man.
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post #85 of 309 Old 02-24-2012, 03:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MKtheater View Post

So I can run a RCA to XLR cable into the input 1 and then 4 XLR cables to each channel of my amp as one signal? Can I create a low shelf filter with 7 DBS boost per octave below 20hz?

Yep and do any sort of whacky EQing, leveling, delaying, limiting or whatever you need independently to each output. I'm going to be using 2 to run a 5 channel 2-way biamped speaker system plus 2 channels left open for subs. That's 6 inputs for L,R,CC,LS,RS and LFE then turned into 12 channels out.
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post #86 of 309 Old 02-24-2012, 03:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricci View Post


Yep and do any sort of whacky EQing, leveling, delaying, limiting or whatever you need independently to each output. I'm going to be using 2 to run a 5 channel 2-way biamped speaker system plus 2 channels left open for subs. That's 6 inputs for L,R,CC,LS,RS and LFE then turned into 12 channels out.

Awesome and REW will EQ automatically to it? How much is a good price? My local PA shop wants $225 for a brand new one and I can get it now.

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post #87 of 309 Old 02-24-2012, 03:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MKtheater View Post

So I can run a RCA to XLR cable into the input 1 and then 4 XLR cables to each channel of my amp as one signal? Can I create a low shelf filter with 7 DBS boost per octave below 20hz?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricci View Post

Yep and do any sort of whacky EQing, leveling, delaying, limiting or whatever you need independently to each output. I'm going to be using 2 to run a 5 channel 2-way biamped speaker system plus 2 channels left open for subs. That's 6 inputs for L,R,CC,LS,RS and LFE then turned into 12 channels out.

Yup. Just like Josh says. The DCX is very versatile! It's awesome. I plan on using three of them, one per channel for my uber mains running 4-way (or 3.5 way but that just sounds stupid. ) but I could do more, even.

Quote:
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Awesome and REW will EQ automatically to it? How much is a good price? My local PA shop wants $225 for a brand new one and I can get it now.

Dayum! That's a good price! I want some.

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post #88 of 309 Old 02-24-2012, 03:22 PM
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Makes me think maybe I shouldn't have just ordered that minidsp

Someday maybe I'll actually WATCH my projector...
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post #89 of 309 Old 02-24-2012, 03:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Simonian View Post


Yup. Just like Josh says. The DCX is very versatile! It's awesome. I plan on using three of them, one per channel for my uber mains running 4-way (or 3.5 way but that just sounds stupid. ) but I could do more, even.

Dayum! That's a good price! I want some.

Ok cool I will pick it up soon. How do I connect it to my computer? R232? How do I create that low shelf for the low stuff?

Beast sorry for the off topic stuff but I figure it is useful info for all and this thread is active right now.

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sub amp-Sanway FP14K
LCR-Dual stacked BFM DR-250's
Surrounds- Dual stacked BFM W10's
subs-12 SI 18's ported 6hz.
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post #90 of 309 Old 02-24-2012, 03:27 PM
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Oh yeah, I will hook up REW with my behringer mic and put omnimic away.

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amps-5 Adcom 555 in 850 watt monoblock mode
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