Quick question on tweater mounting. - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 9 Old 02-26-2012, 07:21 PM - Thread Starter
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I've got a kit i'm building and I have a Dayton Audio tweeter that I don't quite know how to mount? There are no screw holes or anything so I'm assuming you just glue them in place. If this is the case what type of glue should I be using?
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post #2 of 9 Old 02-27-2012, 03:24 AM
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Is it the ND20FA-6 (as used in the original Overnight Sensation)? This is a "press fit" driver...the through hole should be snug (no glue needed).

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post #3 of 9 Old 02-27-2012, 07:20 AM
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post #4 of 9 Old 02-27-2012, 11:11 AM - Thread Starter
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I have this kit.http://www.diysoundgroup.com/speaker...eaker-kit.html

The hole goes all the way though the face so I'm assuming there needs to be more than just a press fit.
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post #5 of 9 Old 02-27-2012, 11:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BirdRider View Post

I have this kit.http://www.diysoundgroup.com/speaker...eaker-kit.html

The hole goes all the way though the face so I'm assuming there needs to be more than just a press fit.

No, it's a press fit. The tweeter will fit in really nice and snug but you do have to press it in fairly hard, basically going back and forth on the tweeter flange to get it in place. I heard 2 people say they were worried about it not fitting, turns out there was a little excess glue or plastic on the back of the tweeter and it wasn't the hole cut out on the boxes. Don't worry, they will fit really nice.





From the site:

"The tweeter is a tight fit and will need to be pushed in pretty hard. That's the way they were designed to mount. If your tweeter seems like it just won't fit, it won't be the box. Check for any excess glue or plastic on the tweeter mount which can keep it from getting started in the hole. Once it's started, push a little on the top, then on the bottom. Back and forth until it's all the way in."
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post #6 of 9 Old 02-27-2012, 12:07 PM - Thread Starter
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Ok, sweet. Another question, should I use some polyfill in this aplication? Could I just use some open cell foam? (which was used as shipping padding for the kit)
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post #7 of 9 Old 02-27-2012, 12:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BirdRider View Post

Ok, sweet. Another question, should I use some polyfill in this aplication? Could I just use some open cell foam? (which was used as shipping padding for the kit)

Depends on the foam that was used for packaging. Some could be open cell, some could have been closed cell. The open cell can be glued to the walls and used.

I believe Paul Carmody recommended a decent handfull of polyfill stuffed in the cabinet. But I'd have to check his site to see exactly how much.

There weren't too many directions written up for the first kits because of the large amount of info on the PE forum from guys that have built those speakers.

My understanding is that the guy helping on those kits will have the designers write up more directions for future models. But the DIY community is huge, so there's always someone to help out.
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post #8 of 9 Old 02-27-2012, 02:04 PM - Thread Starter
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The foam sent with the packaging was some pretty decent open cell foam. I allmost think it was intentional for the use in the speakers. Can you get normal polyfill at craft stores?
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post #9 of 9 Old 02-27-2012, 08:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BirdRider View Post

The foam sent with the packaging was some pretty decent open cell foam. I allmost think it was intentional for the use in the speakers. Can you get normal polyfill at craft stores?

I'll come clean. I'm the one that packages them.

Sorry, I figured you knew that when you put the " " in your earlier post.


Some of the packages I box up get packing peanuts, foam strips, or many times, both. The colorful stuff is closed cell, the light or dark grey is open cell. I have a lot of people ask about that foam for the same exact reason you did. It is good stuff.

There's a company fairly close to me and they get huge pallets of various foam delivered. I guess when the actual foam manufacturer from England slices the sheets and the thickness is off a little bit, they write "DUNNAGE" on it really big and use it to cover the pallet, or cover the top sheet on the pallet. The local foam company then sells it. I bought it to help wrap the big horns from Poland but occasionally slice up a thinner sheet to use. But it's normally beat up pretty bad.



I then noticed they throw out a bunch of thin strips of the really good quality stuff. They cut off the edges of every sheet. Normally the strips are about 1.5" wide. I can get that stuff for free. But I did buy some 3"+ wider strips to experiment with for speaker enclosures. Just never got around to finishing that project.


Again, sorry for not coming clean earlier.


Edit: I just checked out your build, they look nice. One other question people ask is about reversing the polarity on the tweeter. It's in Paul's write up, so you probably already did that when you assembled the crossover.
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