EP4000 12V Trigger Mod - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 21 Old 03-04-2012, 01:38 PM - Thread Starter
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I've asked aroung about turning off pro gear with a 12V trigger and its been done before. However what I wanted was an internal solution and not another box in my crowded equipment rack. I did the trigger mod today. Works great. Spliced in a 12V relay after the main switch on the amp so I can still kill the power if something ever requires I shut it down manual.

Bought supplies.

3.5mm jack and Relay and through hole board:




Removed this foam from front of amp, not real sure why its there..... Amp fan runs much quieter and slower with it out......



Shot of relay installed with standoffs after switch with 12v trigger current coming in on the twisted blue white pair.




Nice finished look. The way it should have come from the factory.




The relay mod works well, I did have to adjust my trigger delay for the amp to keep away the dreaded thud when all the other gear powers up but that was a simple setting in the projector.

I'll never have to flip the amp switch again unless I want to and that is worth the time it took to disassemble the rack do the mod and put it back together.

Total cost... about $10 for the 1/8" jack, relay, and board. The rest I already had but it did take about 4hrs.....
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post #2 of 21 Old 03-04-2012, 02:03 PM
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I think the foam you removed is the fan filter...
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post #3 of 21 Old 03-04-2012, 02:08 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scyan View Post

I think the foam you removed is the fan filter...

Yeah but the filter is on the front or exhaust...... As far as i can tell its useless to me......
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post #4 of 21 Old 03-04-2012, 05:00 PM
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Whats the code in your signature for? Its either gradius 3 or killer instinct...
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post #5 of 21 Old 03-04-2012, 05:10 PM
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post #6 of 21 Old 03-04-2012, 05:11 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tgaffner1 View Post

Whats the code in your signature for? Its either gradius 3 or killer instinct...

Its the old kanomi code(Contra I), I've been told its a little different from what I wrote but its how I remember it......
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post #7 of 21 Old 03-04-2012, 05:15 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by notnyt View Post

Isn't the front the inlet? That's how most rack mount gear is anyway.


Nope, In back out the front.... Seems silly to me too.
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post #8 of 21 Old 03-04-2012, 05:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NicksHitachi View Post

Its the old kanomi code(Contra I), I've been told its a little different from what I wrote but its how I remember it......

Only one B A from what I remember. One or two games may have used BABA for something different however.
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post #9 of 21 Old 03-04-2012, 05:17 PM
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Originally Posted by NicksHitachi View Post

Nope, In back out the front.... Seems silly to me too.

And they have the filter on the front, yet air blows out the front? That makes absolutely no sense.
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post #10 of 21 Old 03-11-2012, 07:42 PM - Thread Starter
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Here are a couple parts suggestions. There are many other parts which may work as well or better.

12V 3.5mm jack(stereo) I just wired both the "hot" legs together, not even sure which "leg" the 12V trigger uses...
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=090-317

I recommend using a relay rated for 20A since the EP4000 will probably draw 10-15 amps. I used a relay rated for 12A and it works ok so far..... If I were to do it again I would use something that has a delay circuit built into the board like this:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/110827292611...84.m1438.l2649


This is the one I used but it is a little under rated on the contact rating....

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...lue=RadioShack

I did like the fact that the coil rating was 7-9VDC since I'm sure there is some voltage drop over the 25' 1/8" cable....

Heres what the wire up looks like. I'm not sure if NO or NC are in the right place or switched but the schematic on the pkg will tell you the correct orientation for your relay



Now, the relay IMO should be wired in after the main power switch so that you can kill the power manually if you need to. Therefore the relay must be wired into the top wire coming from the switch on the main panel. I used spade connectors to connect it all up so that it was plug and play. Female spade connector to the main panel switch and male to connect to the wire which originally connected to the top connector of the main panel switch.



Then just pick a spot to drill a hole for the 1/8" jack and close it all up. Hope this helps some of you get started who have contacted me with questions.....

Worthwile note: MAINS VOLTAGE KILLS, be sure your comfortable with what your doing.
LL
LL
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post #11 of 21 Old 04-02-2013, 07:23 AM
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Thanks, Nick. Will be trying this in the next week or so.
If anything has changed as far as recommendations or thoughts in the last year, please let me know.
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post #12 of 21 Old 04-02-2013, 07:35 AM - Thread Starter
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Nope still works perfect. I would recommend using a relay rated for 20A and make sure the relay is AFTER the on/off switch.
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post #13 of 21 Old 04-02-2013, 09:14 AM
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Nice! Finally someone else that runs them internal. Some amps just don't have the room.

I've been using the OMRON 30A internal to all my amps. Most Behringer amps have enough room inside to do this.
If running more than one the receiver source won't have enough amperage to get past the first relay (75ohm @12VDC). To get around that I used a standard atx pc power supply. Stripped the harness down to a single 12v rail. Used an standard automotive relay(inside the atx case) for the receiver 12vdc to turn on which closes the ground circuit in the power supply (green wire to ground). The atx power supply can then click on quite a few relays depending on your amperage of the single 12v rail. I have 5 amps setup this way running off one rail daisy chained down the back of the amps with terminal strips mounted to each one. If ever need more just use a second rail from the power supply.
Clean neat and works every time. Pretty cool sitting in the living room using our tablet app touching the screen ON button for the receiver and hearing the giant CLICK of all the gear remotely biggrin.gif

"I should really see what dB levels I'm pushing. Long as it can't foam my beer during a movie we are ok "
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post #14 of 21 Old 04-02-2013, 12:37 PM
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What is the benefit of doing this over using a power strip with an on/off master slot/slave slots configuration? To not be current limited by the power strip?
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post #15 of 21 Old 04-02-2013, 12:55 PM - Thread Starter
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Idk what master/slave means?

If you mean a power strip with 12v trigger that should work fine. My rack is crazy with wires/cables already i dont want an extra power strip just for on/off cap.

If you mean a smart strip that wouldnt work for me as i delay my amps about 20s to avoid current surge a thump when my sub EQ powers up.
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post #16 of 21 Old 04-02-2013, 01:04 PM
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A smart power strip- that's what I was talking about. I didn't know how to word it. So then the reasoning is to avoid the on/off thud. Makes sense. smile.gif
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post #17 of 21 Old 04-02-2013, 01:27 PM
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Another strike against a smart power strip is if you have dedicated circuits to distribute the load, your devices you want to control will also be tied to the same circuit as the master device. Just keep that in mind.
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post #18 of 21 Old 04-02-2013, 05:09 PM
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I don't see any protection diode in this circuit. A coil based relay can spike the voltage pretty high when it is turned off. I don't know if it is normal for an AV receiver to have built in protection from such a spike, but it never hurts to play it extra safe.

Obviously this post and mod is over a year old and still working, but if anyone else is doing something similar, look up the diode and relay to see how to connect it.
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post #19 of 21 Old 07-13-2013, 01:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NathanJ View Post

I don't see any protection diode in this circuit. A coil based relay can spike the voltage pretty high when it is turned off. I don't know if it is normal for an AV receiver to have built in protection from such a spike, but it never hurts to play it extra safe.

Obviously this post and mod is over a year old and still working, but if anyone else is doing something similar, look up the diode and relay to see how to connect it.

 

Hello NathanJ;

 

I am very interested in such 12V trigger mod. This looks a like a very clean solution. Per your recommendation I looked up diode relay protection, but I have to admit all posts/articles I found went a bit over my head. Any chance that could you provide a bit more details what in our case would be needed?

 

_____

Axel


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post #20 of 21 Old 07-13-2013, 04:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NicksHitachi View Post

Idk what master/slave means?

If you mean a power strip with 12v trigger that should work fine. My rack is crazy with wires/cables already i dont want an extra power strip just for on/off cap.

If you mean a smart strip that wouldnt work for me as i delay my amps about 20s to avoid current surge a thump when my sub EQ powers up.

If you are using something like a MiniDSP,just leave it on all the time. I use a smart strip and I use mechanical relays. The relays operate off of 120 volts and I have four of them that plug into the smart strip. So the smart strip is just used to activate the relays. Amps power is provided straight from a wall outlet. MiniDSP says on all the time and I do not get any thumps. I tried the solid state relays and they would die on me after 12 to 18 months. The mechanical relays do not seem to have that problem.

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post #21 of 21 Old 07-14-2013, 07:00 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Axel View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by NathanJ View Post

I don't see any protection diode in this circuit. A coil based relay can spike the voltage pretty high when it is turned off. I don't know if it is normal for an AV receiver to have built in protection from such a spike, but it never hurts to play it extra safe.


Obviously this post and mod is over a year old and still working, but if anyone else is doing something similar, look up the diode and relay to see how to connect it.

Hello NathanJ;

I am very interested in such 12V trigger mod. This looks a like a very clean solution. Per your recommendation I looked up diode relay protection, but I have to admit all posts/articles I found went a bit over my head. Any chance that could you provide a bit more details what in our case would be needed?

_____
Axel

The diode protection might be good electrical engineering practice, but mine is still working fine.

This mod has actually outlasted several commercially purchased products which should have been "over engineered" IMHO.

Just sayin, the diode circuit is not necessary and probably not needed.

Based on my personal first hand experience. YMMV.

Quote:
Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 5 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by NicksHitachi View Post

Idk what master/slave means?

If you mean a power strip with 12v trigger that should work fine. My rack is crazy with wires/cables already i dont want an extra power strip just for on/off cap.

If you mean a smart strip that wouldnt work for me as i delay my amps about 20s to avoid current surge a thump when my sub EQ powers up.

If you are using something like a MiniDSP,just leave it on all the time. I use a smart strip and I use mechanical relays. The relays operate off of 120 volts and I have four of them that plug into the smart strip. So the smart strip is just used to activate the relays. Amps power is provided straight from a wall outlet. MiniDSP says on all the time and I do not get any thumps. I tried the solid state relays and they would die on me after 12 to 18 months. The mechanical relays do not seem to have that problem.

Another way to skin a cat. Yours works for you, good.

This mod is for someone who wants the triggering internal and not an external bank of relays triggered by a smart strip. All my stuff works on 12v triggers i got enough "rigged" little treasures in my rack LOL. smile.gif
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