UXL-18 (Pi-18) - The Magical Mystery build - Page 2 - AVS Forum
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post #31 of 65 Old 03-22-2012, 10:14 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks, it's nice to have confirmation that I'm interpreting winISD correctly.

Now on to figuring out REW.
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post #32 of 65 Old 03-22-2012, 11:42 PM
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The response curves in WinIsd are theoretical and do NOT represent the resultant curve when the box is placed in a closed space indoors. The larger box will generally have less of a peak at the room mode frequencies compared to the smaller box.
Although WinIsd predicts that cone excursion will go out of limit faster in a larger box, the in-room gain will not require as much power to achieve the same spl at lower Hzs and consequently with less power less cone excursion. You DO have to make a educated compromise about the box size no matter what.
You can also achieve SOME degree of acoustical compromise by stuffing a smaller box with pillows or the like, to make the box "appear" larger to the driver.
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post #33 of 65 Old 03-23-2012, 07:28 AM - Thread Starter
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I do plan on throwing a few pillows in there. I do realize that winISD is theoretical, which is why I plan on testing and EQing the sub once it's built.

As far as EQ, will the DSP1124P get me in the ballpark?
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post #34 of 65 Old 03-23-2012, 03:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by notnyt View Post

the uxl 18 seems to do best in about a 3.5cuft sealed box. bigger than that and excursion goes nuts.

Quote:
Originally Posted by halo0 View Post

Thanks, it's nice to have confirmation that I'm interpreting winISD correctly.

Now on to figuring out REW.

Quote:
Originally Posted by LINEARX View Post

The response curves in WinIsd are theoretical and do NOT represent the resultant curve when the box is placed in a closed space indoors. The larger box will generally have less of a peak at the room mode frequencies compared to the smaller box.
Although WinIsd predicts that cone excursion will go out of limit faster in a larger box, the in-room gain will not require as much power to achieve the same spl at lower Hzs and consequently with less power less cone excursion. You DO have to make a educated compromise about the box size no matter what.
You can also achieve SOME degree of acoustical compromise by stuffing a smaller box with pillows or the like, to make the box "appear" larger to the driver.


After I saw NDOGGs comments, I had to go back and recheck as well to make sure I didn't just have a bunch of 20" cubes built that would be wrong...everything looks fine.

If you are okay with a 20" cube you might get it cheaper from eD if you have them build it according to the design they did for me.

I'd have them find an upgraded speakon with the larger flange and the more heavy duty poles on the driver side.
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post #35 of 65 Old 03-23-2012, 04:02 PM
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Well. I guess my face is red lol I was looking over my plots a few mins ago and couldn't for the life of me, figure out why in my sims, the 6cf box did the best but far, then I dug a bit deeper and realized that the data for the UXL 18 was in fact the data for the FTW 21 but names UXL 18. I guess I meant to change it to the FTW21 and forgot to change the name............. so ya, I'm an idiot LOL

Just a FYI, the FTW-21 models best in a 6-7 cf box and not so good in a 3.5 cf box

My bad to the op.

Blasting brown notes for 10 years and counting!

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post #36 of 65 Old 03-23-2012, 09:31 PM - Thread Starter
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Haha! No worries, at least the source of the discrepancy has been uncovered.

Quote:
Originally Posted by HuskerOmaha View Post

After I saw NDOGGs comments, I had to go back and recheck as well to make sure I didn't just have a bunch of 20" cubes built that would be wrong...everything looks fine.

If you are okay with a 20" cube you might get it cheaper from eD if you have them build it according to the design they did for me.

I'd have them find an upgraded speakon with the larger flange and the more heavy duty poles on the driver side.

I might ask about that. Never got a chance to call today. I was thinking I'd just have them build it with no connector and get the metal speakon jack from the link in your thread and install it myself. I'm a little hesitant about requesting special order parts based on some of the stories I've read.
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post #37 of 65 Old 03-28-2012, 06:47 AM - Thread Starter
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Well I ordered the box on Monday. 21"W x 21"H x 19"D. Triple front baffle, with the mounting surface recessed by 3/4". I was assured there would be ample internal bracing, at least one horizontal and one vertical. Now the wait begins.
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post #38 of 65 Old 04-02-2012, 12:43 PM - Thread Starter
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I found an open box BFD from Beach Camera via Amazon for $79.99 shipped, so I picked that up. I also grabbed an RCA->XLR adapter to get me from receiver to BFD, and an XLR patch cable to go from BFD to EP4000.

Found out from Mark that my driver failed QC so he is building me another one. Supposed to ship out tomorrow.

I think about the last thing left I have to figure out is what speakon cable/connector to get for the sub. Leaning towards just using this with some clear-jacketed 12AWG OFC I have laying around. It won't look as nice as the cables you can buy but it seems like most of those are not true 12AWG. (also I believe with a bridged EP4000 I'd have to rewire the amp-side speakon anyway, so why not just use bare wire or bananas on that end with the binding posts...)
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=092-192

Planning on using this jack for the cab. All connections will be soldered.
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/psho...number=092-340
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post #39 of 65 Old 04-09-2012, 04:03 PM - Thread Starter
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I'm sure this has been done, but the UXL arrived and I couldn't resist taking some unboxing pics/woofer pr0n.

















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post #40 of 65 Old 04-09-2012, 06:51 PM
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Love that driver! Awesome pics!
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post #41 of 65 Old 04-10-2012, 06:27 AM - Thread Starter
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post #42 of 65 Old 04-10-2012, 06:46 AM - Thread Starter
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Does anyone have a recommendation for some good screws to use? Ideally they would be black, about 1.5" long and have a hex head. The screw holes on the UXL are 1/4" in diameter. Wood screws or hurricane nuts?
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post #43 of 65 Old 04-10-2012, 07:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by halo0 View Post

Does anyone have a recommendation for some good screws to use? Ideally they would be black, about 1.5" long and have a hex head. The screw holes on the UXL are 1/4" in diameter.

Go to your hardware store and look for Spax #10x 1 1/2 inch zinc construction screws. Work and fit great on my UXL
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post #44 of 65 Old 04-10-2012, 07:16 AM - Thread Starter
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I've never heard of spax, what type of head is it? It seems that some recommend something stronger than wood screws, I was thinking maybe this kit.

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...number=260-778

I don't want to have issues if I need to remove and reinstall the driver.
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post #45 of 65 Old 04-10-2012, 07:29 AM
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You can find more about Spax on their website. I use their products on everything from installing kitchen cabinets to building a treehouse. They save a lot of time by not needing pilot holes and they never split the wood.
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post #46 of 65 Old 04-10-2012, 07:51 AM - Thread Starter
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They don't appear to come in black.
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post #47 of 65 Old 04-10-2012, 08:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by halo0 View Post

They don't appear to come in black.

Black spray paint works wonders!
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post #48 of 65 Old 04-10-2012, 02:14 PM - Thread Starter
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Does 2 walmart type pillows sound about right for stuffing? 3? I am trying to make sure I have everything on hand when the box arrives from eD.
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post #49 of 65 Old 04-10-2012, 02:26 PM
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Where does one purchase these UXL-18 subs?
Thanks in advance
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post #50 of 65 Old 04-10-2012, 02:27 PM - Thread Starter
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http://www.istonline.ca/

They are out of stock at the moment.
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post #51 of 65 Old 04-10-2012, 02:28 PM
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Do you have any idea when they will be available?
thanks
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post #52 of 65 Old 04-10-2012, 02:31 PM
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I've read one pound per cubic ft. Need to go buy mine as well.
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post #53 of 65 Old 04-10-2012, 03:10 PM
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Madisound sells the exact screw you are looking for...i am using it on my IXL-18

http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/screws/

Nice pics by the way!!

Tim
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post #54 of 65 Old 04-16-2012, 10:15 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HuskerOmaha View Post

Go to your hardware store and look for Spax #10x 1 1/2 inch zinc construction screws. Work and fit great on my UXL

Do you have any pics of these on your uxl? I'm just wondering if the screws sit relatively flat or not since they have a tapered countersink head.
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post #55 of 65 Old 04-16-2012, 10:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by halo0 View Post

Do you have any pics of these on your uxl? I'm just wondering if the screws sit relatively flat or not since they have a tapered countersink head.

I can take close ups but they seat and fit perfectly in the holes.
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post #56 of 65 Old 04-16-2012, 04:19 PM
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I use #12-2" robertson head wood screws in mine. They aree the perfect size for the holes and sit flush. you don't need anything fancy. Just go to your local hardware store and get some (no bigger than #14) wood screws.

Blasting brown notes for 10 years and counting!

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post #57 of 65 Old 05-30-2012, 09:28 PM - Thread Starter
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Well it's been quite a while and I'm still waiting on eD for my box. :\\ Finally Alex told me last week that if it doesn't ship out this week he will give it to me for free.
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post #58 of 65 Old 06-06-2012, 06:55 AM - Thread Starter
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So of course he shipped it out on Friday at the end of the day, so no freebie.

Box arrived yesterday and my buddy helped me manhandle the UXL in and out to mark and drill the holes. The thing fits TIGHT. As in even the 65ish lb weight of the driver itself won't pull it down into the hole. We had to be careful it didn't get stuck. Glued on my plywood blocks with hurricane nuts last night. Going to get pillows today and should have it assembled tonight.

Oh, and I specifically told Alex to NOT put binding posts in as I was going to put in my own speakon. He put in binding posts. mad.gif
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post #59 of 65 Old 06-06-2012, 09:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by halo0 View Post

So of course he shipped it out on Friday at the end of the day, so no freebie.
Box arrived yesterday and my buddy helped me manhandle the UXL in and out to mark and drill the holes. The thing fits TIGHT. As in even the 65ish lb weight of the driver itself won't pull it down into the hole. We had to be careful it didn't get stuck. Glued on my plywood blocks with hurricane nuts last night. Going to get pillows today and should have it assembled tonight.
Oh, and I specifically told Alex to NOT put binding posts in as I was going to put in my own speakon. He put in binding posts. mad.gif

Your better off with the binding posts. Speakons are great but I have heard more times than I can remember of having air leaks around the speakon stall projects. Alex probably saved you some frustration;)

"Half the world is looking for Jesus, and the other half is looking for more bass..."
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post #60 of 65 Old 06-06-2012, 09:47 AM - Thread Starter
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I really can't fathom what would be so hard about sealing a speakon plug. It's a moot point now though. I just wish I hadn't wasted the money buying all the speakon crap that I now have no use for.
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