First subwoofer build - progress thread - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 21 Old 03-25-2012, 01:38 PM - Thread Starter
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I came to these forums at the end of 2011 and the DIY section caught my eye. I saw all of the really cool subwoofer box builds and thought it was something that I could do. I was also in the process of building a media room (a first for me also) and figured that I would have gained enough skill to be able to make a simple wood box. Or so I thought...

I chose a project which I thought would be fairly easy, considering I have almost no woodworking skills or any knowledge of speaker building other than what I have read here. Like many others, I posted threads asking lots of beginner questions and I was fortunate enough to have gotten a lot of great responses. I started ordering materials and as I went along, I realized that I didn't have a lot of the tools necessary to complete such a project. So, I had to buy them, borrow them, and even paid someone to make the circle cutouts for my driver and port tubes. Now that I have almost everything and wouldn't have to incur many of the the nickle and dime costs of building.

Then, LTD02 came along and has been there for every question that I've had. Without his numerous responses to PM's and earlier threads of mine, I would have never been able to get as far as I have. I can't thank him enough for his guidance and if I screw up this project, it is no fault of his as he has been great.

Anyway, my media room has been completed and my focus is to building the subwoofer box. I took very few photos at this point, but I will post what I have so far. I will continue to post as I complete the project. Like I have said to LTD02 - I welcome and suggestions and criticisms. Don't be afraid to hurt my feelings if you see something that I did wrong.

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post #2 of 21 Old 03-25-2012, 01:51 PM - Thread Starter
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After numerous threads and advice from others, I decided on a BASH 500 amp and a TC Sounds 12" Epic that I got from PE. I am using 3/4 MDF. The interior box dimension are 22.25H x 27.25L x 18.25W, with the bracing accounted for, the box volume is roughly 6.3 F3.

Here are a few photos so far.

Very first steps, cutting the MDF. As you can see I did this while I was still constructing my room.


The TC Sounds 12" Epic driver


The front baffle cutouts that I had to pay someone to do for me since I couldn't find anyone who had a plunge router and a jig.


Checking to see if the driver fit well into the cutouts. Seems okay so far.


Current progress. Box nearly assembled.


I intend to use wood filler for all of my gaps and then a 1/4 router to trim all of the edges. Then I will probably just do a brushed on sealer, sanding, and a few brushed on coats of black paint. I haven't really researched what I should be looking for when I buy these materials. But I intend to search trough the posts to see what others have done. It also looks like I am going to use some sort of polyfill for the interior of the box. I need to get some of that too.

Okay, more to come as I complete each step. Thanks for looking.

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post #3 of 21 Old 03-25-2012, 01:57 PM
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Looking good! For ported enclosures lining the walls with open cell foam is easier to deal with then polyfill. You dont want to block airflow from the driver to the ports. A cheap foam mattress topper will work.


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post #4 of 21 Old 03-25-2012, 04:13 PM
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Looks great! Thanks for sharing your story and pics. I love to read threads like this and see what people are building, and how they are building it.

-Max
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post #5 of 21 Old 03-26-2012, 07:24 PM - Thread Starter
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A little help here, if anyone doesn't mind...

I bought 3 pillowcases full of polyfill at Walmart tonight. $2.50 a piece. I've been reading through posts on the polyfill and I now wonder if I would remove the fill from the pillows or just put the pillows in the box. I see that many use loose fill. But I also see some that complain that the polyfill gets caught in their ports.

Additionally, I have quite a bit of fiberglass insulation leftover from my room build. I saw that some people use insulation instead of the polyfill. If the insulation is fine, I would return the pillows and save a few bucks. Those walmart pillows are really cheap, so I would never use them for anything else than stuffing a sub box.

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post #6 of 21 Old 03-27-2012, 01:56 AM
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Using fiberglass in a ported sub seems like it would lead to itching. I would not do that.

-Max
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post #7 of 21 Old 03-27-2012, 05:41 AM
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fiber fill, walmart pillows are good for sealed subs, not for ported subs
open cell lining like mattress pad is good for ported subs.
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post #8 of 21 Old 03-27-2012, 06:10 AM
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"...now wonder if I would remove the fill from the pillows or just put the pillows in the box."

for a ported sub, remove the fill from the pillows. fiberglass is tricky with a ported sub as the fiber can sometimes blow out of the port, so to be safe, use the polyfill.

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post #9 of 21 Old 03-27-2012, 12:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vaison View Post

A little help here, if anyone doesn't mind...

I bought 3 pillowcases full of polyfill at Walmart tonight. $2.50 a piece. I've been reading through posts on the polyfill and I now wonder if I would remove the fill from the pillows or just put the pillows in the box. I see that many use loose fill. But I also see some that complain that the polyfill gets caught in their ports.

Additionally, I have quite a bit of fiberglass insulation leftover from my room build. I saw that some people use insulation instead of the polyfill. If the insulation is fine, I would return the pillows and save a few bucks. Those walmart pillows are really cheap, so I would never use them for anything else than stuffing a sub box.

Nice box so far.

Use the polyfill and cover it with some highly breathable fabric to secure it way from the port and driver. I used lace for mine.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...7#post21741097
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post #10 of 21 Old 03-29-2012, 09:48 AM - Thread Starter
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I have a flared port question. I bought a flared port kit and extension tubes. Even though all parts are designed for a 4" system, they are not exactly compatible. The coupler rings will fit the extension tubes, but not the tubes from the kit. Right now I have the front of the tube flared, but the back is just flat. Is it okay to leave the back without the flare or should I figure out a way to flare the back? Thanks.

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post #11 of 21 Old 03-29-2012, 12:45 PM
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You might be able to flare the back end with a heat gun and a large wine bottle. I know it works with PVC I don't know what kind of plastic the port tube that you have is. It wouldn't Hirt having the rear section flared as long as the length stays the same.
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post #12 of 21 Old 03-29-2012, 04:08 PM - Thread Starter
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Jstslamd - I have the flared parts, I just need to find a coupler ring of some sort that will fit around both tubes. I'm going to try to hit Lowes this weekend to see if I can rig something up.

In the meantime, I finally hooked up the amp and driver to give it a test run. It sounds pretty weak without a box. Its the first time I've ever had a driver out like this. I hope I got my wiring correct.


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post #13 of 21 Old 04-04-2012, 06:32 PM
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Any updates ?
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post #14 of 21 Old 04-05-2012, 11:33 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jstslamd View Post

Any updates ?

Well, I knew I wouldn't be able to get much done this week due to some of the charity work I do around the holidays. So to appease myself, I put the driver, port tubes and amp in the unfinished box just to give it a trial run. I watched tv and listened to music on it for about 3 days. I didn't stuff it with the polyfill or anything like that. I didn't do much adjusting with the amp (simply because I don't really know how to yet). But, the movies sounded really great. I was shaking the walls, air returns, and floor above my room. At times, it was too much because the sound of the wall vibrating wasn't appealing. The music, well, it sounds pretty muddy to me with the way I had it set up for those days. Hopefully I will get that sorted out. Anyway, I had a little time today and put wood filler in all the seams. Sanded it down and used a router for the edges of the box. I hope to get the sealer, painting and full assembly completed in about a week or so. (My wife is a teacher and on spring break all next week so my free time is probably gone, so I'm not optimistic about getting done)


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post #15 of 21 Old 04-07-2012, 01:57 PM
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The brace should not be directly in the middle as it may cause standing waves.
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post #16 of 21 Old 04-07-2012, 02:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poormanq45 View Post

The brace should not be directly in the middle as it may cause standing waves.

Huh"

Tim
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post #17 of 21 Old 04-07-2012, 02:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tundrSQ View Post

Huh"

The brace being equal distance from the front and back can cause a resonance. IIRC, the frequency will be the quarter wave length equal to the distance between the brace and the two sides that it separates.
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post #18 of 21 Old 04-07-2012, 04:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poormanq45 View Post

The brace should not be directly in the middle as it may cause standing waves.

Quote:
Originally Posted by poormanq45 View Post

The brace being equal distance from the front and back can cause a resonance. IIRC, the frequency will be the quarter wave length equal to the distance between the brace and the two sides that it separates.

I could be wrong, but I don't think that would apply with subs. I think low frequency wave lengths are far longer than the typical sub enclosure for that problem to make a difference. Again, i could be wrong as usual.
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post #19 of 21 Old 04-07-2012, 05:45 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poormanq45 View Post

The brace should not be directly in the middle as it may cause standing waves.

Well, it is a little late now to change that. But, it isn't exactly in the middle if that helps some. It's more toward the rear.

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post #20 of 21 Old 04-07-2012, 06:34 PM
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the brace isn't going to create standing waves.

Listen. It's All Good.
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post #21 of 21 Old 08-31-2012, 06:50 AM
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Any updates on the build?

Dan
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