I ordered and received the 200W with 6dB boost model, strictly for evaluation. Mainly I was looking to see if I can figure out the boost circuit, and identify the components needed for tweaking the subsonic filter for diy needs. Sadly, these amps are not DIY-friendly at all, so imo are not worth the trouble unless they fit your needs 'as-is'. Yung has taken some measures that make board removal tedius, and obviously warrany-voiding. Gluing the board in place, and using surface mount resistors that can only safely be replaced by removing the board, for example. Still, I will do my best to figure out the boost circuit, for those brave souls who spit in the eye of challenges like this. Or if someone out there happens to already have the schematic, even just the pre-amp, that would be awesome to share.
The amp itself seems to be very well made. I'll eventually give it a listen. I was surprised at the small size, even knowing the dimensions before it arrived.
For me, I'll stick to the BASH amps since the info for these is already available, and they are relatively easy to tweak.
EDIT: After studying and working with these a bit more (and having my frustration of disassembly subside a bit), I've changed my mind about these. It is possible to tweak the HPF on these relatively easily if desired, and it is possible to defeat the bass boost circuit if needed. And I do like their smallish size, and good power. You can read through the whole thread to see how the circuits were discovered, or jump to post 85-ish for a wrap up.
I did a boost mod on a Dayton 240, it turned out ok, and the board was easily removed...
I've gotten where I prefer the 'digital' type amps. Seems the a/b with the huge transformers always have some type of hum or mechanical noise. Once I tried a BASH 300, I was converted.
I just finished repairing a Keiga 300w for hum issues, and I have a SA240 from PE that I put in a friend's sub that hums as well. Gonna do a temporary swap with him to try to fix his amp. (Amp hums on its own, nothing else hooked to it, once it's powered on). I agree...they are easy to work on for modding the boost and such. But in my limited experience, they are a bit noisier and prone to noise/hum.
Hence my interest in finding another possible DIY-friendly 'digital' amp. Not that I NEED them to be tweakable, just that it's nice to have that option in case you want to move it to a totally different sub design. Being able to boost here or there, or move the subsonic filter is a great option imo.
Nice to know the digital plate amps reject that noise... Interesting. Thanx for the explaination !
Reports like yours of hum...that's one of the main reasons why I don't explore the pro-amp universe. Plus, I prefer efficient subwoofer designs that give me max output with <500W. I may never achieve record-setting spls, but it gets me where I'm happy and smiling.
I'm not even using the 3000dsp on my subs. This is actively powering just one of my main speakers. I'm using a Rane amp on the other mains but they him as well. For my subs I don't go small. I'm running 2 EP2500's for 4 ixl18's.
I am certain that the circuit applies to the whole line that PE carries. It's obvious the pre-amp board is identical in all models, only exception being that the 300W and 500W models add speaker-level inputs. This would have no bearing on the boost circuit. Also bear in mind that the boost circuit likely serves as the subsonic filter; the models with no boost simply have an Fc at or slightly below 20Hz with no boost above that.
If you're just looking for a straight no-boost amp, do they seem to be reasonable quality - say competitive with the BASH?
Is their input sensitivity high enough to be usable with the miniDsp without additional gain circuitry? It looks to be from the specs.
Is the low pass a 2nd or 4th order slope? I'm assuming 2nd, but I didn't see any explicit indication in the data sheet.
Blasting brown notes for 10 years and counting!
N8 isn't the first to tell me that they have stronger output than the BASH down low. A vendor who sells both told me the same thing. As far as quality...it does look like a very well made amplifier. Can't compare components to the BASH, as I believe they are actually different technologies. The BASH feels a bit wimpy compared to the Yung, but that's likely due to the different types of power supplies needed for their respective tech. I think both a very good amps.
Blasting brown notes for 10 years and counting!
So I tried to do a little reading about how these filters are designed in plate amps.... and am I correct that typically, an amp with boost uses a high Q filter to generate the boost, followed by 2nd order rolloff below the boost?
For example, in the case of the Yung 200W version with boost, assuming for simplicity that it is 6dB boost at 35Hz... This would mean the amp uses a high pass filter at 35Hz with a Q of 2, right?
So if I wanted to model that in WinISD, would I use a "Peaking 2nd order highpass" with 6dB gain peak at 35Hz... or "User SOS" highpass with n=2, fc=35Hz, Q=2?
Since I'm past the return period I'm thinking mine will eventually end up powering some buttkickers. You could also use one on a ported sub with a 20 hz tuning if you want the extra rumble of the 30hz boost. The -3db below signal isn't until about 19hz. That might work for my living room since I don't need and won't try to get below 20 hz there.
What are the vertical divisions in the graph, 3dB? What exactly was the setup for measuring this response?
All I did was place my RS meter on a paint can in front of the cone, take my filters off the inuke and run a sweep, then swap leads over to the yung and run a sweep. It was quick and dirty.
You can see that the yung is about 0-2 db hotter from 50hz up. The point was to verify the frequency that the HPF is set to as there was some conjecture about it being 19hz vs 30hz. You can tell that it isn't 19hz by looking at the curve. You can also see where that confusion comes from since -3db below signal on the +6db models is 19 hz.
Here is the full image with the scale not chopped off: