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post #31 of 60 Old 06-25-2012, 01:19 PM - Thread Starter
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Saturday I completed one and on Sunday, completed another. DONE!

 

Whats left is the roundover, bondo, primer, and paint. For my first build it came out better than I expected. There are some gaps and one does not sit level but its nothing a little bondo and adjustable spikes can't fix biggrin.gif

 

I think I'll connect all four to my computer to have a listen for a few hours tomorrow.

 

IMG_20120625_153148.jpg

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post #32 of 60 Old 06-26-2012, 04:10 AM
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Very nice, can't wait to hear your impressions and see your measurements!

JSS
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post #33 of 60 Old 06-26-2012, 02:27 PM - Thread Starter
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I can't remove the drivers from the enclosures... I tried making a hook from a small screw driver and it still won't budge.

 

I may be able to push a stick through the terminal plate and push the magnet. Would like any other ideas but for now...go to go to work mad.gif This is going to bug me all day!

 

Edit: Phew! I was able to get it out, used a stick to push up on the basket through the terminal plate.

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post #34 of 60 Old 07-05-2012, 09:10 PM - Thread Starter
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I have a question about the speaker gasket...do you stick it to the driver or enclosure? The driver already has a thin gasket, I assume I take that off and put on the new one I bought from parts express.
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post #35 of 60 Old 07-06-2012, 06:47 AM
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I stuck gasket tape to the enclosure.

High Desert Theater - work in progress
Building Bass - Subs

Surrounds - Easy as Pi

Storage - unRAID unDELL

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post #36 of 60 Old 07-06-2012, 07:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrkazador View Post

I have a question about the speaker gasket...do you stick it to the driver or enclosure? The driver already has a thin gasket, I assume I take that off and put on the new one I bought from parts express.

No, do not take the gasket tape off of the driver - LEAVE that on there.

The gasket tape that you purchased from PE needs to be applied to the box itself, where the driver will sit.
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post #37 of 60 Old 07-06-2012, 01:32 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks.

 

I'm 99.9999% complete with the boxes, I updated my post with some pictures. This saturday I will have them up and running, hopefully with some graphs. biggrin.gif

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post #38 of 60 Old 07-06-2012, 07:37 PM
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Looking forward to graphs. I got some absurdly flat response on my quad build. I'm still questioning if it's reality. Hope you have similar results.

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post #39 of 60 Old 09-09-2012, 11:44 PM - Thread Starter
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Its been a couple months since I've updated anything. I did run some graphs and I got some pretty nasty dips at 35hz and 80hz IIRC. I tried spinning some of the subs around and it did nothing, not much I can do with placement but Audyssey does flatten it out some. I couldn't be any happier with the sound, when pushed hard it sounds clean. Right now I'm using some old HTIB speakers sitting on top of the subs. I plan to build 3 seos12 speakers in the future.

 

I did create some videos if anyone cares...

The receiver volume was set to -5 but the subs were running hot, my guess would be +6db. Radioshack meter dial is at 110db. I probably could have gone a bit further but I was too chicken tongue.gif It sounds distorted because the microphone was not designed for such high spl.

 

Jurassic Park 3

 

 

Jurassic Park 1

 

 

WOTW

 

 

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post #40 of 60 Old 09-10-2012, 05:50 AM
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Nice! How about some final product pics...I'd like to see how those grills are mounted and look. Thansk!
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post #41 of 60 Old 09-10-2012, 11:31 AM - Thread Starter
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I'll get more pictures when I have some free time.
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post #42 of 60 Old 01-31-2013, 07:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrkazador View Post

I'll get more pictures when I have some free time.


Uh......... Get any free time yet lol??? I want to see these

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post #43 of 60 Old 01-31-2013, 08:00 PM - Thread Starter
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Forgot about that lol. Let's see if I can remember this time and get some pictures tomorrow.
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post #44 of 60 Old 02-01-2013, 02:37 PM - Thread Starter
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The cloth is not jet black so it does kind of look a little tiny bit purple. Its really not that bad in person in normal lighting conditions.

 

 

 

 

Here is the clamp. I added a piece of USB cable to fill in the gap and the grip is pretty good, no play at all. The clamps were made for woofers that are mounted on top of the baffle, thats why there is a gap. I plan to replace these with some Angled Clamps, I think these will look nicer.

 

 

 

This is what the setup currently looks like. I plan to build 3 slim sealed SEOS Tempest. I was thinking of placing the left and right Tempests in the the corners but I don't know where to put the lamps without it looking weird.

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post #45 of 60 Old 02-01-2013, 07:59 PM
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Nice. Where's the other two?

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post #46 of 60 Old 02-01-2013, 08:22 PM - Thread Starter
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post #47 of 60 Old 03-31-2013, 12:44 PM
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Hi, I started yesterday a thread about finding good void free but also formaldehyde free plywood. PureBond satisfies the latter but I was wondering about your experience about the void-free part. Is it dense enough, and did you notice any voids while you were cutting? I am thinking of the maple variety (shipped only) as I would like to finish it, not paint it. Would you say it is finish quality?
thanks

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post #48 of 60 Old 04-01-2013, 12:05 AM - Thread Starter
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There wasn't a lot voids in it but I wouldn't use it again because of the thin veneer on the outside. The veneer is pretty nice but its useless in a cabinet if you only plan to use glue and no screws.

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post #49 of 60 Old 04-01-2013, 03:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrkazador View Post

There wasn't a lot voids in it but I wouldn't use it again because of the thin veneer on the outside. The veneer is pretty nice but its useless in a cabinet if you only plan to use glue and no screws.

Thanks. It seems that going for Baltic Birch or cabinet grade ply might be a solution for me.
However, I do not understand why a nice veneer is useless with glue..

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post #50 of 60 Old 04-01-2013, 04:54 PM - Thread Starter
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Its a very thin veneer and I would think the veneer would separate from the plys if its only held by glue.

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post #51 of 60 Old 06-17-2013, 04:22 PM
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What do you use for an AMP on your subs ?

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post #52 of 60 Old 06-17-2013, 04:51 PM
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As it is mentioned in the very first post, he is using a Behringer ep4000.

My Dual 18" LLT subs 120dB down to 10hz

 

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post #53 of 60 Old 06-17-2013, 05:34 PM
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I noticed many people are using this amp. Is there some special reason why it's so popular ?

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post #54 of 60 Old 06-17-2013, 05:53 PM
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I noticed many people are using this amp. Is there some special reason why it's so popular ?

Cheap, reliable and high powered. One of the best bang for your buck amps out there.

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post #55 of 60 Old 06-17-2013, 06:20 PM
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Cheap, reliable and high powered. One of the best bang for your buck amps out there.

Damn right! I own six of them they are so good. biggrin.gif

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post #56 of 60 Old 06-17-2013, 08:05 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Cheap, reliable and high powered. One of the best bang for your buck amps out there.

And its been measured
http://www.avsforum.com/t/855865/measuring-amplifiers
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post #57 of 60 Old 06-19-2013, 05:32 AM
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Got it ! Awesome! Thanks for great replies.

What else is an option ? Is this clearly the go to amp ?

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post #58 of 60 Old 06-19-2013, 08:25 AM
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I certainly would but there are other choices out there too and especially so if you want/need very high power out of a single chassis.

It really depends on what gear you are powering and what kind of system you are trying to build. Are you trying to build what Mrkazador has built?

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post #59 of 60 Old 06-19-2013, 11:24 AM
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Other one that gets a bit of credit is the cerwin vega since it will also do 2 ohm.

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post #60 of 60 Old 06-19-2013, 12:26 PM
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Yup. I got one of those too. biggrin.gif

My Dual 18" LLT subs 120dB down to 10hz

 

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