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post #181 of 353 Old 08-06-2012, 04:29 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post

looks just fine. roundovers on bracing aren't for performance. and...i like your plan for getting it air tight.
if not already part of the plan, a nice 2" fiberglass or equivalent amount of recycled cotton fiber on those walls to damp out internal reflections will enhance your results.

Thanks much, LTD02.

Yes. My last step is adding insulation. I've been leaning toward fiberglass since this is sealed and fiberglass seems to be easier to get in place and secure than polyfill. On that, what is the best securing method? Staple/glue facing to walls?
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post #182 of 353 Old 08-06-2012, 05:44 AM
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I'd used R13 with wood glue on my last build.
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post #183 of 353 Old 08-06-2012, 11:56 AM - Thread Starter
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I'd used R13 with wood glue on my last build.

Cool. R13 is like 3.5" thick, right. Any logic/math on how much "stuffing"?

Also, did you use insulation with paper facing (i.e., glued the paper)?

Thanks!!
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post #184 of 353 Old 08-06-2012, 01:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Java View Post

Cool. R13 is like 3.5" thick, right. Any logic/math on how much "stuffing"?
Also, did you use insulation with paper facing (i.e., glued the paper)?
Thanks!!

On My 4Pi, Wayne recommended removing the paper facing and using either wood glue or regular elmer's white glue. Also, I believe I lined every wall including the brace that separated the waveguide and 2226 but two walls. I did not line the bottom (where the crossover was bolted) and one side wall opposite of port
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post #185 of 353 Old 08-06-2012, 03:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Java View Post

Cool. R13 is like 3.5" thick, right. Any logic/math on how much "stuffing"?
Also, did you use insulation with paper facing (i.e., glued the paper)?
Thanks!!


Removed paper and lined sides, top, and back walls.
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post #186 of 353 Old 08-07-2012, 03:27 AM
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Im starting to itch just sitting here hearing you guys talk about peeling facing and stuffing with fiberglass....... Yikes!
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post #187 of 353 Old 08-07-2012, 04:39 AM
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I'm going to use Rockwool. smile.gif.
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post #188 of 353 Old 08-07-2012, 07:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NicksHitachi View Post

Im starting to itch just sitting here hearing you guys talk about peeling facing and stuffing with fiberglass....... Yikes!


It's not as bad as it sounds. Just remember gloves and long sleeves.

tongue.gif
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post #189 of 353 Old 08-07-2012, 08:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NicksHitachi View Post

Im starting to itch just sitting here hearing you guys talk about peeling facing and stuffing with fiberglass....... Yikes!
Quote:
Originally Posted by smokarz View Post

It's not as bad as it sounds. Just remember gloves and long sleeves.
tongue.gif

And most importantly, after working with fiberglass make sure you wash your hands before you scratch any 'sensitive' areas...

Chris

"It hurts to admit when you make mistakes - but when they are big enough, the pain only lasts a second."
--Despair, Inc. "Regret"


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post #190 of 353 Old 08-08-2012, 05:13 AM
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A cold rinse helps get the fibers off. Hot water can open up the pores and let the evil stuff in. That could be an old wive's tale, but it seems to help.

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post #191 of 353 Old 08-08-2012, 05:27 AM - Thread Starter
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And most importantly, after working with fiberglass make sure you wash your hands before you scratch any 'sensitive' areas...

On that note, I have revisited my approach and am now prepared.

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post #192 of 353 Old 08-12-2012, 06:43 AM - Thread Starter
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Window Bracing

I thought it might be useful to the other noobs like me to give a quick tutorial on window bracing. Pretty simple.
  1. Measure the panel. This is where I goofed. I cut the panel the same as the bottom panel, but realized later that back panel recesses in. So I had to cut the panels down 3/4".
  2. Layout cuts. I measured in about an inch (width of yard stick) around the edges and then the mid points.
  3. Pilot holes. I drilled pilot holes at each corner for the jig.
  4. Jig Saw. Cut away. It doesn't have to look pretty so don't sweat it.
  5. Glue in box. I was going to glue these in during my final frame glue step, but thought it would be better to wait until the baffle went on to align the braces with openings.

Cut Layout


Pilot Holes


Jig Saw Cuts (doesn't have to be pretty, as I have proven)


Finished Product with rear panel framing
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post #193 of 353 Old 08-12-2012, 07:51 AM
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Box for Deltalite II 2512/B&C DE250/JBL PT WG

Any resemblance is accidental and unintentional smile.gif



Sorry for OT Java smile.gif Great job you did there smile.gif

........ i thought i taw a puddy tat .....
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post #194 of 353 Old 08-12-2012, 08:28 AM - Thread Starter
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Box for Deltalite II 2512/B&C DE250/JBL PT WG
Any resemblance is accidental and unintentional smile.gif

Sorry for OT Java smile.gif Great job you did there smile.gif

No worries. Great job, too!!

Where are you on the build?
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post #195 of 353 Old 08-12-2012, 09:05 AM
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I'm choosing color for the cabinets smile.gif I tried to veneer them but unsuccessfully. Now i'm thinking something like a gray box with red stripe or two on both sides strategically positioned just to brake the monotony.

X-over is finally done. I had tons of effort to get the sound and measurements both Ok . One without the other was bad. I wanted to order SEOS 12 too but at first i couldn't get into contact with Eric and when i did, he told me that he doesn't want to send them to Europe and that he is looking for a guy who could do it on this part of the globe.

So, i decided to go with PTWG and DE250. I visited Paul Spencers blog and bought plastic adapter for DE250. It needed little work to get the transition from adapter to waveguide right but i think i did it well. I used Passive Crossover Designer to make X-over and measurements confirmed it later.

Right now i have 1.8mH series and 35uF shunt on Deltalite II 2512 and 18dB/o on DE250/ptwg combo (7uF series/0.6mH shunt/5uF series - and two notch filters). Box is 114 liters of inner volume tuned to about 38-40Hz. I use them without subs and in this configuration i don't feel the need for subs at all.

I did all of my woodwork on balcony. My family didn't like me on that days rofl

........ i thought i taw a puddy tat .....
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post #196 of 353 Old 08-12-2012, 10:37 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by toshiwakano View Post

I'm choosing color for the cabinets smile.gif I tried to veneer them but unsuccessfully. Now i'm thinking something like a gray box with red stripe or two on both sides strategically positioned just to brake the monotony.
X-over is finally done. I had tons of effort to get the sound and measurements both Ok . One without the other was bad. I wanted to order SEOS 12 too but at first i couldn't get into contact with Eric and when i did, he told me that the don't want to send them to Europe and that he is looking for a guy who could do it on this part of the globe.
So, i decided to go with PTWG and DE250. I visited Paul Spencers blog and bought plastic adapter for DE250. It needed little work to get the transition from adapter to waveguide right but i think i did it well. I used Passive Crossover Designer to make X-over and measurements confirmed it later.
Right now i have 1.8mH series and 35uF shunt on Deltalite II 2512 and 18dB/o on DE250/ptwg combo (7uF series/0.6mH shunt/5uF series - and two notch filters). Box is 114 liters of inner volume tuned to about 38-40Hz. I use them without subs and in this configuration i don't feel the need for subs at all.
I did all of my woodwork on balcony. My family didn't like me on that days rofl

I didn't even think about veneering. I'm at my skill limits as it is. wink.gif

I'm going with a "black hole" (flat black) look to minimize any reflections from my front projector. I briefly got the bug to try something creative, since my wife is a "craft freak". She's lately been getting into restoring furniture. Below is an example of her's using a concoction of chalk paint. I thought maybe I could do a chalk paint look to match my theater colors (dark red/blue). But my creative dreams were dashed when my wife said "Why bother. No one will see them in the dark." She's right. My HT is a "bat cave". Even when fully lit, it's pretty dark. Oh well. It was a nice thought...

Sorry for the ramble. Good luck with your build.

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post #197 of 353 Old 08-13-2012, 03:00 AM
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wow. That looks great.

If you were ever to paint the cabinets, your lady would be "right guy" for the job smile.gif

cheers friend smile.gif

........ i thought i taw a puddy tat .....
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post #198 of 353 Old 08-13-2012, 02:42 PM - Thread Starter
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Minor Update

One box almost ready to go and another in the batter's box.

I drilled the holes for the driver/wave guide screws and am almost ready for the final steps. Per below, I had a little bit of fit issue on the guide fit, so I had to sand out the cut out a bit. While the touch up paint dries, I'll post some small updates for interested.

Minor touch up needed.
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post #199 of 353 Old 08-13-2012, 02:53 PM - Thread Starter
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Speaker Spikes / Angle

My original plan was to use adjustable speaker spikes to get about a +5° angle. The spike (below) are adjustable, but it gets too wobbly at the extreme range. Plan B was to add a 3/4" MDF strip in front to get the angle. I added a 14" x 2" strip to anchor the front spikes. With the MDF alone, I get a +4.5° angle. I can tweak the rest with the spikes.

PE Speaker Spike [http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=240-717]


MDF Strip [you can also see the drill holes for the spikes]
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post #200 of 353 Old 08-13-2012, 03:05 PM - Thread Starter
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Rope Caulk

This step is definitely optional. Some of the Pi Speaker builders and other guide builds add rope caulk to help isolate the wave guide. The SEOS is so thick and solid, this step is probably not needed, but in my "belt & suspenders" tradition, I'm doing it anyway.

The gear. SEOS/CD, Rope Caulk, Duck Tape.


The Rope Step.


The Tape Step.
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post #201 of 353 Old 08-13-2012, 03:34 PM - Thread Starter
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Driver Screws

The screws I ordered from PE are too short for my plans. My original plan was to avoid t-nuts and just use lock washer and nuts since I have a removable back panel. I ordered #8 1.25" for the guide and #10 1.50" for the woofer. Even before the gasket tape, there was very little extra threads for the washer and nut.

So, I'm going down two paths now. Get longer screws or get barbed inserts.

On the longer screws, I found some #8 1.5" socket cap screws locally at HD that I really like. I had to paint them black but I like the extra top that the socket cap has over the pan head. I like how it sits higher in the guide's holes. I found some #10 2" socket cap screws on Amazon for the woofers.

Socket Cap Screws.


PE Pan Head Screws


As far as the barbed inserts, I was impressed with the screw-in inserts that came with the speaker spikes, so I'm also exploring inserts as an option. I found #10 inserts and #8 inserts on Amazon.
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post #202 of 353 Old 08-15-2012, 04:04 PM - Thread Starter
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One Down

I finally got one finished. I haven't had time to test it, but will after I get the next one done.

Below are some quick shots.





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post #203 of 353 Old 08-15-2012, 04:09 PM
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Wow those came out nice Java.
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post #204 of 353 Old 08-15-2012, 05:07 PM
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wow man, you nailed it java. those are professional quality.

Listen. It's All Good.
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post #205 of 353 Old 08-15-2012, 05:28 PM
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Very nice! Makes me want to start building. I have 3 TD12 M's on the way and need to start making some dust. This thread and the outcome are very motivating!
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post #206 of 353 Old 08-15-2012, 07:23 PM
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Wow! Nice! That is some major motivation there!
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post #207 of 353 Old 08-15-2012, 07:52 PM - Thread Starter
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wow man, you nailed it java. those are professional quality.

Thanks much, LTD. That means a lot to me coming from you. You've been a huge help. Thanks, again!
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post #208 of 353 Old 08-15-2012, 09:27 PM
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"Thanks much, LTD. That means a lot to me coming from you. You've been a huge help. Thanks, again!"

i appreciate the kind words, but i was just a minor helper on this one. the thanks must really go to the other guys who did the heavy lifting.

i added a pic and link of your build to the o.p. of the "hey guys, we need a little rallying" thread.

the cool thing is that your build thread will inspire others and then they will be happy too.

Listen. It's All Good.
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post #209 of 353 Old 08-16-2012, 04:35 AM
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The rope caulk (or in my case duct putty) also changes the resonant frequency of the waveguide, lowers it which is a good thing. Just tap the inside of the horn before and after application, the change is obvious so I'm a big fan now.
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Rope Caulk
This step is definitely optional. Some of the Pi Speaker builders and other guide builds add rope caulk to help isolate the wave guide. The SEOS is so thick and solid, this step is probably not needed, but in my "belt & suspenders" tradition, I'm doing it anyway.
The gear. SEOS/CD, Rope Caulk, Duck Tape.

The Rope Step.

The Tape Step.

Find out more about Mark Henninger at
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post #210 of 353 Old 08-16-2012, 04:40 AM - Thread Starter
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"Thanks much, LTD. That means a lot to me coming from you. You've been a huge help. Thanks, again!"
i appreciate the kind words, but i was just a minor helper on this one. the thanks must really go to the other guys who did the heavy lifting.
i added a pic and link of your build to the o.p. of the "hey guys, we need a little rallying" thread.
the cool thing is that your build thread will inspire others and then they will be happy too.

LTD, don't underestimate your value. You were always there for quick spot on answers to my noob questions. You got me out of the rut numerous times. Thanks, again.
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