Dayton 18" DCS450 in a 14ft3 slot port - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 34 Old 06-28-2012, 06:53 PM - Thread Starter
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I'm planning to use a single Dayton Audio DCS450-4 18" Classic Subwoofer 4 Ohm with a 300W BASH plate amp to power the LFE for my home theater. I'd like to build a simple enclosure for it, and my room has a cubby which is 28"x32"x35" where I'll put it. I'm not too concerned about huge volume, but I would like it to be very clean and have good low end extension. Would you please make suggestions on the type and size of enclosure I should build? My thoughts were large sealed, but I thought I'd ask the experts, thanks smile.gif
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post #2 of 34 Old 06-28-2012, 07:15 PM
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That cubby size would actually make for a nice ported box with the dcs450. Take an inch off your cubby dimensions for a 27"x31"x34" box and you're at 14ft3 with 3/4" material. All you would need is a pair of 4" x 10" ports and you'd end up with a tune just under 20hz after accounting for some bracing. 300 watts is to much power, you would be better with a 200 watt amp at most.

If you just want a simple, smaller sealed sub, you should go with an amp that has boost, like this Yung SD300-6. The box has to be 3ft3 or less in size to handle 300 watts without exceeding xmax. 21"x21"x16" would get you 3.2ft3, allowing bracing and the woofer to drop the volume.


This is a comparison of the ported (green) vs sealed (blue).
304
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post #3 of 34 Old 06-28-2012, 10:47 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the comments Jay....the ported box sounds great. But I'd rather do a slot port, could you convert the port dimensions for a slot? Or is it just simple math?....like 4*3.14*10 = port volume....so a slot with 10" depth would require 4*3.14=12.56in2 cross section?

Anyhow, I already own the Bash amp...so I'd like to stick with that for now. But I'd be OK with another woofer suggestion within a similar budget if that would be better.

On another thought...is the space big enough for a horn? Anybody want to try to fold one into that space I have? I'd love to try a horn someday smile.gif
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post #4 of 34 Old 06-28-2012, 11:02 PM
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You could do a 3"H x 10" W x 11"D slot port. You wont damage the driver with 300 watts, you will just be capable of exceeding xmax by about 2mm, so it isn't really a huge deal. You would also be pushing out 115db from the sub at that point.
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post #5 of 34 Old 06-29-2012, 05:08 AM - Thread Starter
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Awesome, thanks a bunch for the help Jay smile.gif
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post #6 of 34 Old 07-03-2012, 10:54 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay1 View Post

You could do a 3"H x 10" W x 11"D slot port. You wont damage the driver with 300 watts, you will just be capable of exceeding xmax by about 2mm, so it isn't really a huge deal. You would also be pushing out 115db from the sub at that point.

Jay, I'm assuming that the port dimensions you listed here are based on the enclosure size you posted in your first reply:
27"H x 31"W x 34"D - box
3"H x 10" W x 11"D - slot port
....is that right?

I ordered the sub today, and I'm expecting delivery in about two weeks (I live in Japan)...then I'll get to work on the enclosure.
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post #7 of 34 Old 07-03-2012, 11:35 PM
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Yes, and those are outer dimensions, use 3/4" thick material. Make sure to add some bracing too, window pane style takes up very little volume.
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post #8 of 34 Old 07-05-2012, 08:07 AM - Thread Starter
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So, I worked up a sketchup model tonight and it looks pretty good. But unfortunately, I think I'm going to need three sheets of 18mm plywood...which sucks cause it runs about $60 a sheet here. But such is life in Japan frown.gif

DCS450-4.png

The port is at the bottom, and the cutout at the top is for the amp....I still have to work out my bracing. Any other suggestions?
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post #9 of 34 Old 07-05-2012, 09:28 PM
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Usually MDF is cheaper if you're worried about costs, it is heavier of course. Make sure you take a round over bit to the port opening.
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post #10 of 34 Old 07-09-2012, 04:50 AM - Thread Starter
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Alright, I worked on the model a bit more tonight and I think I'm satisfied with the results....but I'd like some confirmation, especially with the bracing. Its pretty rudimentary, but I don't want to buy another sheet of wood if I can help it. Plus, we're not talking about a whole lot of pressure with this setup....so I think it'll do...thoughts?

DCS450-4_bracing.png

I also added a front baffle, which should clean up the front side a bit, and add a little more rigidity.

DCS450-4_baffle.png
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post #11 of 34 Old 07-09-2012, 06:55 AM
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That should work pretty well.

You could also consider building a small external housing box for the amp, so you only have to put binding posts on the sub.
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post #12 of 34 Old 07-09-2012, 04:29 PM - Thread Starter
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Jay, is the slot port going to change the tuning freq? Or will it still be about the same as the graph you made in your first reply? Thanks agian smile.gif
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post #13 of 34 Old 07-09-2012, 05:41 PM
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Yes, the response will be virtually identical. Your box will be tuned between 19-20hz. depending on the final volume. Either way, large boxes allow for slight variations to have minor effects.
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post #14 of 34 Old 07-10-2012, 01:12 AM
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i plopped the numbers in winisd in order to doublecheck jay's numbers and they are good--size, port dimensions, tuning, etc.

the bracing looks good too. the only thing that some folks might suggest is rotating the vertical brace that is behind the port 90 degrees, so it will be less likely to interrupt the air flow in the port.
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post #15 of 34 Old 07-10-2012, 11:44 AM
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Nice looking sketches, that is a large mother..cool.gif
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post #16 of 34 Old 07-10-2012, 12:38 PM
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You could place the port on one of the three corners so the bracing won't affect it. You will also save a few inches of wood because you can use the side wall for part of the port.

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post #17 of 34 Old 07-10-2012, 04:41 PM
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Nice sketches! The only thing i would change is moving the amp to the back and centering the 18" Dayton on the baffle. Unless you really want to see your speaker wires going to the amp near the speaker itself.
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post #18 of 34 Old 07-10-2012, 07:10 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxjr View Post

Nice sketches! The only thing i would change is moving the amp to the back and centering the 18" Dayton on the baffle. Unless you really want to see your speaker wires going to the amp near the speaker itself.

I'm stuffing this into a cubby in my room, and only the front panel will be accessible....so the amp, woofer, and port all have to be exposed on the front face. I'll post up pictures with progress soon smile.gif
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post #19 of 34 Old 07-12-2012, 01:41 AM - Thread Starter
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I purchased the wood today...I ended up getting 21mm thick multi-ply because 18mm just looked too skinny. It cost me over $200....but I'd rather pay the extra and be happy with it, then cheap out and be disappointed with the result.

Anyhow, I recalculated the total volume minus the bracing and port and I'm just over 12 ft3....so it should be about 12ft3 after you factor in the woofer displacement. Is that still gonna work out?
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post #20 of 34 Old 07-12-2012, 06:55 AM
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It will still be fine. You will be tuned to just under 21hz, -3db point 24hz.

I agree with everyone else about adjust the brace in front of the port so that the width of the brace is running front to back.
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post #21 of 34 Old 07-12-2012, 05:05 PM - Thread Starter
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Will do (about the bracing), thanks again.

Looks like my measurements were a little off, the box will only be 750mm wide (instead of 786mm as cut)....which is where I came up with the 12ft3 figure I mentioned yesterday. So I've got to fix the cuts and then I can start putting this thing together!
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post #22 of 34 Old 07-12-2012, 06:44 PM - Thread Starter
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Here is my screen wall....you can see the cubby hole in the lower left area:

P1050911.jpg

Here is a closer view....its quite large smile.gif I have no idea what its for (I rent this house).

P1050913.jpg

Waiting for batteries to charge:

P1050914.jpg

***tip*** don't use a cheap battery powered skillsaw to cut a lot of thick wood rolleyes.gif ***tip***
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post #23 of 34 Old 07-12-2012, 07:48 PM
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see how it sounds if you aim the sub into the cubby hole smile.gif
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post #24 of 34 Old 07-12-2012, 08:57 PM - Thread Starter
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The fit will be too tight for that, the sound would not have enough room to escape (less than the port cross section).

Here some pictures for today's progress:

This is the back of the BASH 300W amp in case anyone wanted to see it...its mounted in a wood panel I used to mount it to the Klipsch sub.
P1050916.jpg

Front panel marked off:
P1050917.jpg

Dry fitting pieces:
P1050918.jpg

Four sides glued & screwed (its a small upgrade biggrin.gif)
P1050920.jpg

Front and top pieces dry fitted....all measurements confirmed to be pretty tight fit...looks good smile.gif
P1050922.jpg

Amp shown for scale:
P1050923.jpg
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post #25 of 34 Old 07-13-2012, 06:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay1 View Post

That cubby size would actually make for a nice ported box with the dcs450. Take an inch off your cubby dimensions for a 27"x31"x34" box and you're at 14ft3 with 3/4" material. All you would need is a pair of 4" x 10" ports and you'd end up with a tune just under 20hz after accounting for some bracing. 300 watts is to much power, you would be better with a 200 watt amp at most.
If you just want a simple, smaller sealed sub, you should go with an amp that has boost, like this Yung SD300-6. The box has to be 3ft3 or less in size to handle 300 watts without exceeding xmax. 21"x21"x16" would get you 3.2ft3, allowing bracing and the woofer to drop the volume.
This is a comparison of the ported (green) vs sealed (blue).
304

could you run #'s for the Dayton PA460-8

Specifications: • Power handling: 500 watts RMS/1,000 watts continuous program • VCdia: 3" • Le: 3.31 mH • Impedance: 8 ohms • Re: 5.3 ohms • Frequency response: 26-2,000 Hz • Fs: 26.2 Hz • SPL: 98.5 dB 2.83V/1m • Vas: 16.72 cu. ft. • Qms: 6.90 • Qes: 0.28 • Qts: 0.27 • Xmax: 6.0 mm • Dimensions: Overall diameter: 18", Cutout diameter: 16-3/4", Depth: 8"

i found that at around 169l (~6cu.ft.) tuned to 40Hz it was real flat with a nice steep rolloff around 35Hz(-3db). but i need validation and proper port size if using the flared Dayton ports from post #1, or, proper slot port size (i like look of the round flares better, but either will work for me). no onboard amp for mine.

i am building diy subs for what i call tailgating at the park.
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post #26 of 34 Old 07-13-2012, 06:45 PM
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Denon_Kid, I'll send you a PM to keep this thread on track
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post #27 of 34 Old 07-16-2012, 04:38 AM - Thread Starter
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Alright, I've got a small update tonight. My sub arrived...and I sealed the first four sides of the box and put in two of the three braces:

Sealed:
P1050924.jpg

braces cut and combined, they are each full length with a notch cut out so they fit together like puzzle pieces:
P1050925.jpg

braces installed:
P1050928.jpg

My four year old wanted to help out wink.gif
P1050931.jpg
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post #28 of 34 Old 07-17-2012, 06:15 AM - Thread Starter
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Alright, I've got another quick update...

amp and port holes cut in the front baffle (jigsaw):
P1050932.jpg

subwoofer hole cut (jigsaw):
P1050933.jpg

port assembled:
P1050934.jpg

and attached:
P1050935.jpg

amp mounted:
P1050936.jpg

sub mounted:
P1050937.jpg

backside:
P1050938.jpg

front baffle mounted:
P1050939.jpg

two more angles:
P1050940.jpg

P1050941.jpg

Still to come; I have to put in the front/rear brace, attach the top side, and attach an extra 12mm thick front baffle which will hopefully be more aesthetically pleasing with routed corners and some sort of finish.
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post #29 of 34 Old 07-17-2012, 07:16 AM
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Nice progress! Did you use that Japanese hand saw for those cut outs?
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post #30 of 34 Old 07-17-2012, 01:51 PM - Thread Starter
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I've used the hand saw several times now, last night I used it to clean up the upper area of the port after the rough cut with the Jigsaw. The Japanese hand saw is actually very nice to use smile.gif
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