Originally Posted by WagBoss
yeah, but I picked my amp because I want low rumbling at 15 hz... with a ported sub. I already have a 300 W subwoofer right now so I wouldn't upgrade unless it's a big step. I have the exact type of driver im interested in im just not sure what brand to go with.
But if you choose a speaker with a lower sensitivity-then you will actually have LESS SPL than you now have. Is that what you want? Even though the amp is a larger size.
What is so special about that amp? You have to remember that while it may be "popular" (becasue of price) it is still a cheap amp-and the typical buyer did not buy it because of sound quality-but rather for how many "watts" it says-vs price.
Since you say say you have the "type of driver" selected-but don't knwo which brand-what type of driver is it? Will it give you equal or higher sensitivity than you currently have?
Very often sensitivity (REAL-not just the simple numbers as seen on most spec sheets-look for MEASURED response-not just some numbers) is much more important than power. When you get to the upper end-a couple of dB in sensitivity can make a huge difference-while large "apparent" gains in wattage will not produce larege SPL gains.
Remember that it take TWICE OR HALF the power to produce a 3dB change. And that change is the same as going from 1 to 2 watts as going from 10,000 to 20,000 watts.
Think about the difference that 3dB in sensitivity can make at those wattages.
It just seems funny to me to proclaim "I have decided to buy the cheapest amp I can find-what speaker should I go with it to give me great performance". Does the speaker have to be equally cheap?
Now granted-given x amount of money to spend-I would put more of it towards the speaker than the amp. You will get more "quality per dollar" that way-but there are limits.
Since the speaker is worst reproducer of sound in a system-it makes sense to put most of the money in that direction.
So choose your speaker FIRST-THEN see what amp you should get to power it-based on the money you have left over.
And when choosing a speaker-you need to look at REAL low freq cutoff-REAL sensitivity and REAL power capacity. In many home theatre and stereo markets-the numbers provided are very far from REAL.