Looking for a sub to go with a Behringer EP2000 amp 1300W RMS - AVS Forum
Forum Jump: 
Reply
 
Thread Tools
post #1 of 76 Old 06-28-2012, 07:53 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
WagBoss's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 658
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 19
Update: I am buying a Behringer EP4000, along with a minidsp and a behringer ecm8000 mic for tuning to my room. I still need to decide on box size, box type, and drivers. Forsure only one box, 1 or 2 drivers in the box. Approximately 400 dollar budget on drivers.

I am probably going to buy a 1300W RMS amp, the Behringer EP2000. I need a sub for home theatre that will go with this. I want strong low frequencies for nice rumble for explosions etc. I am thinking a 15". What do you guys suggest? Also if there is a better amp for the money let me know smile.gif Also one other thing, I can just use the pre-out on my avr and use a RCA to XLR converter for the input into the EP2000 correct? I read a couple people had problems with their impedance on their output from their avr's because the voltage was too low or something and it was too quiet?

Also, any advice on what type of box and box design? I guess this will depend on what driver I pick. The size of the box im thinking of is at max 20" deep doesnt matter how high or wide.
WagBoss is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 76 Old 06-28-2012, 10:55 PM
AVS Special Member
 
pokekevin's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Huntington Beach, CA
Posts: 5,070
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7 Post(s)
Liked: 101
Quote:
Originally Posted by WagBoss View Post

I am probably going to buy a 1300W RMS amp, the Behringer EP2000. I need a sub for home theatre that will go with this. I want strong low frequencies for nice rumble for explosions etc. I am thinking a 15". What do you guys suggest? Also if there is a better amp for the money let me know smile.gif Also one other thing, I can just use the pre-out on my avr and use a RCA to XLR converter for the input into the EP2000 correct? I read a couple people had problems with their impedance on their output from their avr's because the voltage was too low or something and it was too quiet?
hmmm odd id find the driver first than go find the amp lol. I can't tell from your post but it sounds like your looking for a passive sub? Budget?

I use a rca to xlr with no probs. Got mine at monoprice

Sent from my SCH-I405 using Tapatalk 2

No subwoofer I've heard has been able to produce the bass I've experienced in the Corps!

Must..stop...buying...every bluray release...
pokekevin is offline  
post #3 of 76 Old 06-29-2012, 05:10 AM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
WagBoss's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 658
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 19
Budget I'd say is in the 400 ish range willing to go a bit under or above depending. Yes looking for a passive sub
WagBoss is offline  
post #4 of 76 Old 06-29-2012, 05:59 AM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
WagBoss's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 658
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 19
One other option is I could run it in 2-channel mode, which has a power output of 2x500W RMS, so I could run something like 2 x12" subs or whatever is best at 500W each.
WagBoss is offline  
post #5 of 76 Old 06-29-2012, 07:27 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Jay1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: AZ
Posts: 3,981
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Liked: 102
You might as well spend the extra $60 on an EP4000. How big is your room?
Jay1 is offline  
post #6 of 76 Old 06-29-2012, 08:24 AM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
WagBoss's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 658
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay1 View Post

You might as well spend the extra $60 on an EP4000. How big is your room?

haha mideswell. its like a split kitchen/living room, so total would be about 30 feet long 10 feet wide and 9 feet high. the living room and kitchen are separated by two pieces of wall that stick out 2 feet and 3 feet so there is a "doorway" that is 9 feet high and about 5 feet wide. the living room area is probably only about 10 feet wide x 14 feet long x 9 feet high though. I am moving in a year or two though. I just want deep bass to shake my house smile.gif

So with the EP4000 I could put two 4 ohm subwoofers in series and power them with a bridged 1750 watts... wow. so i would be looking for two subs that are 4 ohm and have like 900-1000 watts rms each?
WagBoss is offline  
post #7 of 76 Old 06-29-2012, 09:13 AM
AVS Special Member
 
rlj5242's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Southaven, MS
Posts: 3,282
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Liked: 18
Quote:
So with the EP4000 I could put two 4 ohm subwoofers in series and power them with a bridged 1750 watts
Yes but you won't get that much power. Look back at the amp testing thread. The EP-2500/4000 can only put out about 800w per channel at 2 ohms stereo or 1,600 bridged into 4 ohms.
Quote:
so i would be looking for two subs that are 4 ohm and have like 900-1000 watts rms each?
Depends on the enclosure. You can easily destroy a sub rated at 2,000w with much less power.
rlj5242 is offline  
post #8 of 76 Old 06-29-2012, 09:26 AM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
WagBoss's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 658
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 19
Quote:
Depends on the enclosure. You can easily destroy a sub rated at 2,000w with much less power.

so what type of enclosure would i use if i want say 2 15" subs one facing out front one facing out left? Sealed?
WagBoss is offline  
post #9 of 76 Old 06-29-2012, 01:12 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Mrkazador's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 3,866
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 58 Post(s)
Liked: 261

I would have the two drivers facing forward or two separate enclosures. With separate enclosures you can place them in various parts of the room to get the best frequency response. If you have a big room then 2 sealed 15" subs may not be enough. If you can go with a larger enclosure then 2 ported subs will be a lot louder.

Mrkazador is online now  
post #10 of 76 Old 06-29-2012, 07:28 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
WagBoss's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 658
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrkazador View Post

I would have the two drivers facing forward or two separate enclosures. With separate enclosures you can place them in various parts of the room to get the best frequency response. If you have a big room then 2 sealed 15" subs may not be enough. If you can go with a larger enclosure then 2 ported subs will be a lot louder.

Would it be better then 1 driver ? such as a http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=293-662
WagBoss is offline  
post #11 of 76 Old 06-29-2012, 07:48 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Jay1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: AZ
Posts: 3,981
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Liked: 102
Quote:
Originally Posted by WagBoss View Post

haha mideswell. its like a split kitchen/living room, so total would be about 30 feet long 10 feet wide and 9 feet high. the living room and kitchen are separated by two pieces of wall that stick out 2 feet and 3 feet so there is a "doorway" that is 9 feet high and about 5 feet wide. the living room area is probably only about 10 feet wide x 14 feet long x 9 feet high though. I am moving in a year or two though. I just want deep bass to shake my house smile.gif
So with the EP4000 I could put two 4 ohm subwoofers in series and power them with a bridged 1750 watts... wow. so i would be looking for two subs that are 4 ohm and have like 900-1000 watts rms each?

That's a decent sized room, you will definitely want to start out with a ported sub. That also means you are going to need a HPF in your front end, since the behringer amp only has a selectable 30/50hz option. Going with one really expensive driver like the TC 15" is an option of course, but that doesnt leave your budget room for a MiniDSP, which will give you complete control over a HPF, and allow you to EQ the room response flat. You could build a pair of subs like

Dual opposed Infinity 1260W's in 8ft3 tuned to 20hz, wired for 2ohm. Each dual opposed sub will handle the 800 watts per channel from an EP4000 running 2ohm stereo
http://www.amazon.com/Infinity-Reference-1260w-1200-watt-High-Performance/dp/B0028AVGEO/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1341023902&sr=1-4&keywords=infinity+subwoofer

A single DVC385 in the same 8ft3 20hz, powered by 600 watts per channel from the EP4000 running 4ohm stereo
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=295-190

The performance is extremely close, with the dual 12's having a little more output.
Jay1 is offline  
post #12 of 76 Old 06-29-2012, 08:09 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
WagBoss's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 658
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay1 View Post

That's a decent sized room, you will definitely want to start out with a ported sub. That also means you are going to need a HPF in your front end, since the behringer amp only has a selectable 30/50hz option. Going with one really expensive driver like the TC 15" is an option of course, but that doesnt leave your budget room for a MiniDSP, which will give you complete control over a HPF, and allow you to EQ the room response flat. You could build a pair of subs like
Dual opposed Infinity 1260W's in 8ft3 tuned to 20hz, wired for 2ohm. Each dual opposed sub will handle the 800 watts per channel from an EP4000 running 2ohm stereo
http://www.amazon.com/Infinity-Reference-1260w-1200-watt-High-Performance/dp/B0028AVGEO/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1341023902&sr=1-4&keywords=infinity+subwoofer
A single DVC385 in the same 8ft3 20hz, powered by 600 watts per channel from the EP4000 running 4ohm stereo
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=295-190
The performance is extremely close, with the dual 12's having a little more output.

Not sure what you mean about a HPF, I am using the LFE from my avr, so it's only sending the low frequncies to the amplifier. And the crossover on my receiver would split the higher frequencies to my fronts. I would not use the 30/50 hz option. Is it really that important to have a DSP?

How exactly would I wire the dual infinity subs? They appear to be 4 ohms, so if I ran them as stereo off the amp then they would only be 4 ohms, for them to be 2 ohms I would have to run them parallel off the bridged output, but the bridged output doesnt do 2 ohm. Did you mean to wire them in series and run them as 8 ohms from the ep4000 bridged at 1750 watts rms? Wouldnt the 1750 watt rms be way too much for the 300 w rms of the infinity sub?
WagBoss is offline  
post #13 of 76 Old 06-29-2012, 08:24 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Jay1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: AZ
Posts: 3,981
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Liked: 102
HPF = high pass filter. A ported sub will unload below its tuning point. If you're dumping 100s of watts into a sub playing high level low frequency content (action movies), you can potentially destroy the woofers without a filter to remove the content below tune.

A dual opposed sub means 2 woofers in a single sub, you would build a pair of these subs, 4 woofers total. Wire each set of 4ohm woofers in parallel for a 2ohm load. 4 woofers is $240, the DSP is $125, so $365 for the setup.

300
Jay1 is offline  
post #14 of 76 Old 06-29-2012, 08:30 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
WagBoss's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 658
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay1 View Post

HPF = high pass filter. A ported sub will unload below its tuning point. If you're dumping 100s of watts into a sub playing high level low frequency content (action movies), you can potentially destroy the woofers without a filter to remove the content below tune.
A dual opposed sub means 2 woofers in a single sub, you would build a pair of these subs, 4 woofers total. Wire each set of 4ohm woofers in parallel for a 2ohm load. 4 woofers is $240, the DSP is $125, so $365 for the setup.
300

Yes I know HPF is a high pass filter, what I'm saying is the signal I am sending to the amp would be the LFE subwoofer pre-out from my receiver, which would only send 0-120 hz in the first place.

So you are saying that a DSP is a must? Why do pre-built subs from speaker manufacturers not recommend DSPs or anything? What content below tune would I remove on the subwoofer? Like are you saying remove 0-10 hz else it will wreck the sub? The receiver is already removing the high frequencies and only sending the low frequencies to the sub.

Also I drew a picture of my room. It is hard to explain it.

383
WagBoss is offline  
post #15 of 76 Old 06-29-2012, 08:41 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Jay1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: AZ
Posts: 3,981
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Liked: 102
Quote:
Originally Posted by WagBoss View Post


Yes I know HPF is a high pass filter, what I'm saying is the signal I am sending to the amp would be the LFE subwoofer pre-out from my receiver, which would only send 0-120 hz in the first place.
So you are saying that a DSP is a must? Why do pre-built subs from speaker manufacturers not recommend DSPs or anything? What content below tune would I remove on the subwoofer? Like are you saying remove 0-10 hz else it will wreck the sub? The receiver is already removing the high frequencies and only sending the low frequencies to the sub.

Yes the reciever is putting a low pass filter on the sub and sending it everything down to 0...

340

Here you see the sub in question's cone excusion with 800 watts, one line has a 20hz HPF, the other has no filter. As you can see, by 16hz this sub is at 24mm excursion, which is likely over the mechanical limit of the driver. If you do not believe there is heavy content at 16hz and below.... good luck.
Jay1 is offline  
post #16 of 76 Old 06-29-2012, 08:59 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
WagBoss's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 658
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay1 View Post

Yes the reciever is putting a low pass filter on the sub and sending it everything down to 0...
340
Here you see the sub in question's cone excusion with 800 watts, one line has a 20hz HPF, the other has no filter. As you can see, by 16hz this sub is at 24mm excursion, which is likely over the mechanical limit of the driver. If you do not believe there is heavy content at 16hz and below.... good luck.

edit: nvm I misread your post. Thank you for the graph. What program did you use for the excursion graph?

and is there any difference between the minidps 2x4 and the minidsp 2x4 kit? Other than the fact that the kit does not have a cover? It is 25 dollars cheaper.
WagBoss is offline  
post #17 of 76 Old 06-29-2012, 10:26 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Jay1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: AZ
Posts: 3,981
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Liked: 102
The program is WinISD. You should shoot the minidsp people an email with anything you need to find out as far as specifics like that.
Jay1 is offline  
post #18 of 76 Old 06-30-2012, 09:27 AM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
WagBoss's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 658
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 19
does anybody else recommend any other drivers? I think I want to stick with only 1 box right now I have decided don't have room for 2 really.
WagBoss is offline  
post #19 of 76 Old 06-30-2012, 04:29 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
WagBoss's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 658
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay1 View Post

The program is WinISD. You should shoot the minidsp people an email with anything you need to find out as far as specifics like that.

Do you know what "vent length" means in winisd? i am using a circular port so is it just how long the cardboard tube goes into the subwoofer? Also, I will be putting my sub in a corner with 2 subs facing out on the same side, will I port it only once and port it on the front?

One last question, what determines tuning frequency? Is it something I can control or how does that work? Thanks
WagBoss is offline  
post #20 of 76 Old 06-30-2012, 04:38 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Jay1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: AZ
Posts: 3,981
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Liked: 102
Yes, vent length is the total length of the port. You can use a single port for dual woofers, it is best to center the port between drivers, but not mandatory. The port diameter and length in a given enclosure volume determine tuning frequency.
Jay1 is offline  
post #21 of 76 Old 06-30-2012, 05:19 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Mrkazador's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 3,866
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 58 Post(s)
Liked: 261

You also need to worry about air velocity. I see lots of guidelines but Winisd recommends not going above 17m/s. Adding multiple ports can lower air velocity but these ports take up enclosure volume which is another thing to remember. If you have one 4 dia x 20" port, this will take up 0.145cu ft so you need to subtract that from your enclosure volume.

 

Nice enclosure calculator

http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/enclosure-volume-calculator/

 

Best to post your design so other members can take a look at it before you start building.

Mrkazador is online now  
post #22 of 76 Old 06-30-2012, 07:56 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
WagBoss's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 658
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mrkazador View Post

You also need to worry about air velocity. I see lots of guidelines but Winisd recommends not going above 17m/s. Adding multiple ports can lower air velocity but these ports take up enclosure volume which is another thing to remember. If you have one 4 dia x 20" port, this will take up 0.145cu ft so you need to subtract that from your enclosure volume.

Nice enclosure calculator
http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/enclosure-volume-calculator/

Best to post your design so other members can take a look at it before you start building.

In winisd, if I put 2 vents, and it says its 40 inches long, does that mean both vents are 20 inches long? I am having trouble getting my velocity down, if the port isnt like 100 inches long its over 30 m/s

With 2 ports 4 inches in diameter, and 40 inches long ( so 20 inches long each right?) I can get it to mostly peek at 16 hz and 22 m/s, and goes down pretty fast and at 20 hz its only 17 m/s
446
WagBoss is offline  
post #23 of 76 Old 06-30-2012, 08:11 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Jay1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: AZ
Posts: 3,981
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Liked: 102
That length is for each port.
Jay1 is offline  
post #24 of 76 Old 06-30-2012, 08:11 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
WagBoss's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 658
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 19
also for cone excursion, with 2 drivers is it showing total excursion or what? like if the driver can go 1" then if im using 2 drivers can it go to 2 inches or does it take into account there is 2 drivers and the max is still 1 inch?

also if I have two ports, can I put them on the same side?

and one last thing, for system input power, is that total input power or per subwoofer driver?
WagBoss is offline  
post #25 of 76 Old 06-30-2012, 10:55 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
WagBoss's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 658
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 19
can someone help me make a box for a TC Sounds LMS-R 15" DVC Subwoofer? I want it flat from 20 - 100. I can't get it even close to that.
WagBoss is offline  
post #26 of 76 Old 07-01-2012, 12:04 AM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
WagBoss's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 658
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 19
does this air velocity and cone excursion look ok for a TC Sounds LMS-R 15" DVC Sub? This is with 1600 Watt RMS power going to it.
277

it is the yellow line.
WagBoss is offline  
post #27 of 76 Old 07-01-2012, 06:56 AM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
WagBoss's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 658
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 19
I know I am not going to have this sub at full power though, like can I model it say at like 800 watts and just not turn it up past 3/4? When I try to model it at max power i get awful frequency responses below 25 hz.
WagBoss is offline  
post #28 of 76 Old 07-01-2012, 11:53 AM
AVS Special Member
 
Mrkazador's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 3,866
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 58 Post(s)
Liked: 261

The tc sounds 15" is better suited for sealed, but that doesn't mean you can't use in a ported enclosure.

 

You said 20" depth is the max for the enclosure but what about height and width? Some drivers like a really big enclosure. You could go with an LLT (large low tuned). A huge enclosure with an 18" sub tuned real low like 13hz. I haven't seen one of those done in a long time other than kryptonite.

 

http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-subwoofers-general-discussion/1820-llt-explained.html

Mrkazador is online now  
post #29 of 76 Old 07-01-2012, 01:02 PM
AVS Special Member
 
Jay1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: AZ
Posts: 3,981
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Liked: 102
Try 6.5ft3 - 8ft3, 20hz tune for the TC 15" if you want flat to 20hz. You can use a single channel from the amp, you dont have to run it bridged if you're worried about to much power. You could also you a less expensive driver if you dont need something that can handle 1600 watts. A Dayton RS15HO would do well with 600 watts, and likes 6.5ft3. A pair of 4"x23" ports gets 20hz. You would also have the option to add a second sub in the future really easily. When more power isn't being used this would perform very close to the TC, with the TC never being pushed anywhere close to its limits.

Everything the same, with 600 watts and 18hz 4th order HPF
288
Jay1 is offline  
post #30 of 76 Old 07-01-2012, 02:41 PM - Thread Starter
Advanced Member
 
WagBoss's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 658
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Liked: 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jay1 View Post

Try 6.5ft3 - 8ft3, 20hz tune for the TC 15" if you want flat to 20hz. You can use a single channel from the amp, you dont have to run it bridged if you're worried about to much power. You could also you a less expensive driver if you dont need something that can handle 1600 watts. A Dayton RS15HO would do well with 600 watts, and likes 6.5ft3. A pair of 4"x23" ports gets 20hz. You would also have the option to add a second sub in the future really easily. When more power isn't being used this would perform very close to the TC, with the TC never being pushed anywhere close to its limits.
Everything the same, with 600 watts and 18hz 4th order HPF
288

yeah all my trouble designing this is because I have a 1600W signal. If I reduce it I can get a much nicer design. So If I just use 1 channel instead of bridging, this is fine for the amp correct? I will just leave the 2nd channel untouched and put the sub to the first channel so it gets 1400 W , which is probably only like 1000 real watts?
WagBoss is offline  
Reply DIY Speakers and Subs

User Tag List

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page


Forum Jump: 

Posting Rules  
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off