Dual Eminence Delta-10B with a DE250 or D220Ti? - Page 3 - AVS Forum
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post #61 of 82 Old 08-28-2012, 02:11 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coctostan View Post

I meant to include that too. The SHO-10 looks like a very nice value for a completed speaker, but its components simply won't hold a candle to the SEOS-12/2512. The SEOS-12/2512 would probably sell for around $500-600 minimum from a place like Chase HT. I'd say its components are an order of magnitude better.

The 2512 is really that much better? I guess it is almost twice the cost.

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post #62 of 82 Old 08-28-2012, 03:56 PM
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I can't speak for them in terms of distortion/midrange quality, but from what WinISD tells me the 2512 will dig deeper then the 10A but it will not have any real output advantage above 70hz (when ported).

I think the Delta-10A/SEOS 360 combo will deliver what you are after, so order your parts and start building aready! biggrin.gif
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post #63 of 82 Old 08-28-2012, 05:20 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtg90 View Post

I can't speak for them in terms of distortion/midrange quality, but from what WinISD tells me the 2512 will dig deeper then the 10A but it will not have any real output advantage above 70hz (when ported).
I think the Delta-10A/SEOS 360 combo will deliver what you are after, so order your parts and start building aready! biggrin.gif

Ok ok, stop twisting my arm!

When I get home I'll order up the SEOS12/DNA-360 and Delta-10A.

Just the other day I purchased an air compressor and nail gun just for this project!

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post #64 of 82 Old 08-28-2012, 06:53 PM
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Tux, yes he could put a choke on it but that will be a bit of a shot in the dark. IME, tuning the response of a 2.5 way is not very simple due to measuring at those frequencies along with issues with boundary reinforcement.

Luke, yes, the 2512 is a significantly better driver and I would definitely pay 2x for it. The biggest advantage is matching the SEOS-12's directivity to the 12" woofer vs the 10" woofer. You will get directivity control lower in frequency.

Ultimately if you really want to roll your own with a DSP, you can try any drivers. For value, I would still suggest buying the SEOS/2512 kit as it wold give you something to start from and potentially design your own DSP or passive crossover.
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post #65 of 82 Old 08-28-2012, 07:46 PM
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Ya, I agree, I'm not a fan of 2.5ways. I tried it once and gave up. And my measurements were outside on a 12' ladder. Indoors is definitely a shot in the dark.
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post #66 of 82 Old 08-28-2012, 08:36 PM
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I've never heard of the SEOS project and flatpack kit until now. Very nice setup. I'd consider the smaller sealed deltalite version in the future. Right now I'm still happy with the SHO-10s for LCR. They are delivering the goods at 13ft from seating distance with 250wRMS each. Very small speaker footprint for the output it has.

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post #67 of 82 Old 08-28-2012, 08:52 PM - Thread Starter
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I can see myself using the 2512 in the future, but most likely these I build now will become my surrounds, so the smaller size is better.

I'm still going to build passive crossovers for these, using the DCX for the tweaking and REW for the measurements.

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post #68 of 82 Old 08-28-2012, 09:38 PM - Thread Starter
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OK, ordered the SEOS-12 in matte finish, DNA-360 tweeters, and a couple 10A mids. Time to start working on the box!

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post #69 of 82 Old 08-28-2012, 09:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lukeamdman View Post

OK, ordered the SEOS-12 in matte finish, DNA-360 tweeters, and a couple 10A mids. Time to start working on the box!

Let the fun begin !!! biggrin.gif
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post #70 of 82 Old 08-29-2012, 09:38 AM
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FYI

delta10aspl.png

rawmeasurements-1.png

That's outside measured and usable down to around 200hz. There was some ambient noise. I'll do a better job of keeping things quite once I'm happy with a xo. Very effecient imo. I've already cooked up an active and a passive xo to try biggrin.gif Look very promising actually. Should be quite fun.
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post #71 of 82 Old 08-29-2012, 11:10 AM - Thread Starter
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Question regarding those graphs: If you input that information into that passive crossover designer tool, will it give you an estimate on what device to add to the crossover to properly attenuate the tweeter? It appears to me the tweeter is more sensative.

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post #72 of 82 Old 08-29-2012, 11:42 AM
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Yes, that's what it does. However, you need to have some understanding of where to put certain components and what size of components.

If you'd like, we could move our discussion over to www.diysoundgroup.com where I can upload all my measurement files and you can tweak away with them. I can show you exactly what I mean. Actually, I'll just go over there and start a thread right now for my build. Then if you want to start one for yours, you can, or just keep your build here.

EDIT - Here: http://www.diysoundgroup.com/forum/index.php?topic=68.0
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post #73 of 82 Old 08-29-2012, 07:45 PM - Thread Starter
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According to the below link, a slot port that is 9" wide, .75" tall, and 1.5" deep for a 1cu.ft box yield a 70hz tune

http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/boxcalcs.asp

Is that accurate?

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post #74 of 82 Old 08-30-2012, 11:25 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lukeamdman View Post

According to the below link, a slot port that is 9" wide, .75" tall, and 1.5" deep for a 1cu.ft box yield a 70hz tune
http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/boxcalcs.asp
Is that accurate?

Another question: In the sub world the general rule of thumb was 1lb of polyfill for each cubic foot of volume. Will that work here as well?

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post #75 of 82 Old 08-31-2012, 11:43 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by lukeamdman View Post

Another question: In the sub world the general rule of thumb was 1lb of polyfill for each cubic foot of volume. Will that work here as well?

Anyone?

I was browsing through the kits on diysoundgroup.com, and they never mention polyfill or any other type of insulation. Do I even need to add it?

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post #76 of 82 Old 08-31-2012, 11:48 AM
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Yes, those cabinets are tall enough you could get internal standing waves if you didn't.
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post #77 of 82 Old 08-31-2012, 11:49 AM
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I would add it, and about 1lb/cuft is fine. if you dont want to add it, at least dampen the walls with insulation...

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post #78 of 82 Old 08-31-2012, 01:41 PM
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I have swiched to this almost exclusively: UltraTouch Denim Insulation

No itch, in a batt so it can be applied in ported enclosures. You would be suprised with how much there is in a bag, I may never run out. smile.gif
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post #79 of 82 Old 08-31-2012, 03:49 PM - Thread Starter
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I have swiched to this almost exclusively: UltraTouch Denim Insulation
No itch, in a batt so it can be applied in ported enclosures. You would be suprised with how much there is in a bag, I may never run out. smile.gif

That looks like the stuff that was on the inside the Captivators I used to own.

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post #80 of 82 Old 08-31-2012, 04:04 PM - Thread Starter
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Got the 10A drivers from Parts Express today. They're much beefier and heavier than I was expecting.

Here's the plan for the box so far. After bracing and drivers it should sit right at .95 cu.ft.

Someone confirm or correct this assumption: For a 70hz tune in a .95 cu.ft box, the port should be 8.25" wide, .75" tall, and 1.5" deep. If that works, all I'll have to do is cut a 8.25" x .75" slot in the front baffle.

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post #81 of 82 Old 08-31-2012, 04:35 PM - Thread Starter
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It appears my assumption was incorrect.

According to hometheatershack: http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/enclosure-volume-calculator/

"The key to measuring slotted ports is to be sure to measure the outside dimensions of the part of the port that is inside the enclosure, however do not include the enclosure walls if any are used for port walls. Always start from the inside wall of the enclosure. Once you have calculated the volume of your port, write down the figure so that you can input it in the appropriate enclosure calculator that you will use to determine your total net volume."

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post #82 of 82 Old 08-31-2012, 08:28 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lukeamdman View Post

It appears my assumption was incorrect.
According to hometheatershack: http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/enclosure-volume-calculator/
"The key to measuring slotted ports is to be sure to measure the outside dimensions of the part of the port that is inside the enclosure, however do not include the enclosure walls if any are used for port walls. Always start from the inside wall of the enclosure. Once you have calculated the volume of your port, write down the figure so that you can input it in the appropriate enclosure calculator that you will use to determine your total net volume."

Wait wait wait...that description is talking about finding how much internal box volume is being taken up by the port. It has nothing to do with tuning, wow...

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