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post #91 of 161 Old 08-27-2012, 01:26 PM - Thread Starter
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Cool, Thanks Beast.

Also, thanks to VEXXD, WagBoss, Nickshitachi and anyone else that has helped with answering my questions. I think I have most of it figured out for the most part for now, but may have a few lingering questions down the road. Now to order all of my components and supplies, get the wood cut and get to gluing and screwing.

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post #92 of 161 Old 08-27-2012, 01:46 PM
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dont forget terminals for either speakon or traditional speaker wire for the back of the sub box, if you dont already have one in the cart...

(European models do not accept banana plugs.)

 

"If you done it, it ain't bragging." ~ Walt Whitman

 


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post #93 of 161 Old 08-27-2012, 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post

dont forget terminals for either speakon or traditional speaker wire for the back of the sub box, if you dont already have one in the cart...

Also feet for the sub
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post #94 of 161 Old 08-27-2012, 02:31 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post

dont forget terminals for either speakon or traditional speaker wire for the back of the sub box, if you dont already have one in the cart...

A buddy of mine is shipping me some T nuts, 12gauge wire for inside the box and some nice speaker terminals for the box.

AFAIK it would only be aesthetic, but I plan on putting the speakers terminal on the bottom of the box. My reasoning is simply I cannot think of anywhere else to put them that won't look crappy on a dual opposed box.

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post #95 of 161 Old 08-27-2012, 02:34 PM - Thread Starter
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Also feet for the sub

I had some in my cart until I remembered that at my work we have some 4x4x1-1/2 isolation pads that are used for things like air handlers and such. I figured they would give me clearance for my speaker terminal along with the benefit of isolation.

If you think feet would be better I grab them, but I thought these little isolation pads may do the trick.

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post #96 of 161 Old 08-27-2012, 02:48 PM
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I had some in my cart until I remembered that at my work we have some 4x4x1-1/2 isolation pads that are used for things like air handlers and such. I figured they would give me clearance for my speaker terminal along with the benefit of isolation.
If you think feet would be better I grab them, but I thought these little isolation pads may do the trick.

If it's on carpet you should have spikes. For the bottom, you would have to use bare wire to connect to the terminal, as there probably won't be a ton of clearance. I was gonna put mine on the bottom but I decided I want to use banana plugs so I had to put it on the back because they stick out too far
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post #97 of 161 Old 08-27-2012, 03:14 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by WagBoss View Post

If it's on carpet you should have spikes. For the bottom, you would have to use bare wire to connect to the terminal, as there probably won't be a ton of clearance. I was gonna put mine on the bottom but I decided I want to use banana plugs so I had to put it on the back because they stick out too far

I will be on carpet...spikes back in the shopping cart.

I figured on using bare wire for the terminal, I just can see putting the terminal on one of the side as a think it will take away from the look. This is the reason I am not doing a speakon terminal on the enclosure.

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post #98 of 161 Old 08-27-2012, 05:10 PM
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Speakon connectors look great and would add to the refinement of your build in my opinion. I think they give a tough look that the average person has never seen before. Every time someone comes over and looks at my new subs they all have said, "wow, what the hell are those speaker plugs? I've never seen those before"

And, if you need to do any rearranging or service to fine tune the build, nothing beats a speakon! Just put them in an inconspicuous spot. If you want I'll post a picture to show you what I mean.
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post #99 of 161 Old 08-27-2012, 05:50 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by jayHRC51 View Post

Speakon connectors look great and would add to the refinement of your build in my opinion. I think they give a tough look that the average person has never seen before. Every time someone comes over and looks at my new subs they all have said, "wow, what the hell are those speaker plugs? I've never seen those before"
And, if you need to do any rearranging or service to fine tune the build, nothing beats a speakon! Just put them in an inconspicuous spot. If you want I'll post a picture to show you what I mean.

Sure thing, I am always down for a pick to see real world applications. My issue is I am making a dual opposed enclosure and can't think of a place that would look nice. That is why I was planning on putting the speaker terminal on the underside in which case you would not even see the speakon.

Unless I plan on setting this up the wrong way, I always thought it was preferred that one sub should face the LP and the other towards the wall behind the TV. Does this really make a difference? If not I can place the the box with the subs pointing towards one side wall and the other towards the center channel (for a lack of better word).

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post #100 of 161 Old 08-27-2012, 06:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smigro View Post

Sure thing, I am always down for a pick to see real world applications. My issue is I am making a dual opposed enclosure and can't think of a place that would look nice. That is why I was planning on putting the speaker terminal on the underside in which case you would not even see the speakon.
Unless I plan on setting this up the wrong way, I always thought it was preferred that one sub should face the LP and the other towards the wall behind the TV. Does this really make a difference? If not I can place the the box with the subs pointing towards one side wall and the other towards the center channel (for a lack of better word).

You can get an angled terminal cup with a Speakon hole already in it. Should reduce the clearance needed down to what you'll have with spikes. I love Speakon. Finally a connector rated for high current, audio frequency signals that is designed for more than one mate/demate cycle! Bananas are a weak, non-locking alternative that allow cross-wiring. Bare wire loosens over time. Same with spades or pins. Better to use a connector that's specifically engineered for the purpose.

They look really cool, too.
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post #101 of 161 Old 08-27-2012, 06:37 PM
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Here's a pic of the side of my sub. Now, please keep in mind that this is the day that I brought these in from the garage. I've since moved the surrounds up to the wall and put the wires in a cable management strip. I built two of these enclosures, one for each back corner of my room. Each holds two 12' drivers. And I think your finished product would look good no matter what direction you point the subs. If you angle the enclosure in a corner with a driver pointed at each wall then you could put the Speakon centered in the lower back corner. If you put it in a corner with one driver facing out and the other into the corner, then all you would see is a really nice and clean looking connection. And even then, it wouldn't really be noticeable unless someone is taking a close look. And when they do take that closer look, they'll see a professional looking job.

On top of that, when you have to disconnect to make adjustments (which you will), it literally takes 1 second to unhook and reconnect. After you build the box and mount the drivers, you'll want to bring it in to test. If you want to try adding stuffing you'll have to do the same. You could really be disconnecting these things several times and nothing beats a Speakon for that. Trust me, you'll thank me for pushing you to spend the extra $10-15.

edit- sorry the white balance is so crappy. I'll give you a better pic if you want more detail.


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post #102 of 161 Old 08-27-2012, 06:40 PM
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Better to use a connector that's specifically engineered for the purpose.
They look really cool, too.

couldn't agree more!
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post #103 of 161 Old 08-27-2012, 06:54 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by cptomes View Post

You can get an angled terminal cup with a Speakon hole already in it. Should reduce the clearance needed down to what you'll have with spikes. I love Speakon. Finally a connector rated for high current, audio frequency signals that is designed for more than one mate/demate cycle! Bananas are a weak, non-locking alternative that allow cross-wiring. Bare wire loosens over time. Same with spades or pins. Better to use a connector that's specifically engineered for the purpose.
They look really cool, too.

I THINK you may have just given me an idea about the back of my A/V rack. biggrin.gif

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post #104 of 161 Old 08-27-2012, 07:03 PM - Thread Starter
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That looks really nice Jay. I .oke how you counter sunk it for the flesh mount. How thick is the wood for your enclosures? I wonder if 3/4" is thick enough to do that.

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post #105 of 161 Old 08-27-2012, 07:17 PM
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Thank you for the compliment!

And I'm not sure about how to flesh mount things. Is that when you leave a layer of skin after smashing your knuckles? lol

My cabinets are minimum 1" thick. Top, bottom and front baffle are 1 1/4" and two spots on the sides where I have some heavy bracing are 1 3/4" thick. Even flush mounting a Speakon wouldn't look bad at all. They have a very thin and small edge where the mounting screws go.
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post #106 of 161 Old 08-27-2012, 09:07 PM
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very nice work.

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post #107 of 161 Old 08-28-2012, 07:38 AM - Thread Starter
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So I got my cart all set and am ordering later this afternoon. Here is what I have so far, do you see anything else I may need.

T-nuts with screws for mounting driver
1/8 x 1/2" speaker gasket tape
2 pole Speakon terminal
(2) 2 pole Speakon connectors
(2) Dayton Audio RSS390HF-4 drivers
Dayton Audio DSS-6 mounting feet
Behringer iNuke3000DSP amp

I have 12 gauge wire laying around to make the Speakon cable and am getting the Male RCA to male XLR cable form Monoprice.

I will be getting my MDF, PL Premium glue and screws at my local Home Depot or Lowe's.

I guess the only thing I have a guestion about is the internal stuffing. Is it alright to use something like this glued to the walls.

4848foam.jpg

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post #108 of 161 Old 08-28-2012, 07:43 AM
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I'm not sure about how to flesh mount things.

Oh Boy...

(European models do not accept banana plugs.)

 

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post #109 of 161 Old 08-28-2012, 08:04 AM
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I guess the only thing I have a guestion about is the internal stuffing. Is it alright to use something like this glued to the walls.
4848foam.jpg

Do you have an Ikea within reasonable driving distance? Many people just use Wal-mart pillows, but I'm going to check these out today for my build - http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/80129179/
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post #110 of 161 Old 08-28-2012, 08:10 AM
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Quote:
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I'm not sure about how to flesh mount things.

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Oh Boy...

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post #111 of 161 Old 08-28-2012, 08:40 AM
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Be very careful with the Tnuts if you're using anything smaller than 1/4-20...If you start them off center in the slightest they will bind and possibly push the teeth out the bottom, thus causing the tnut to spin and you to swear (a lot). I had this happen with three tnuts on my build. I started all of my bolts by hand and I was very cautious not to cross thread and it still happened to me. You want to talk about a pain in my A*S. I used 10-24 thread socket cap bolts because the mounting screw holes were really small on my subs. I will never use tnuts that small again. 1/4-20 sizes have never given me any trouble and I will never use anything smaller than 1/4-20 tnuts on anything I build for the rest of my life. Reaching around bracing trying to use needle nose pliers to grab something you can't see while trying to twist a bolt with your other hand and not stab the speaker surround is very stressful.

So, be careful with the stupid tnuts! they are the greatest and worst invention ever.
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post #112 of 161 Old 08-28-2012, 09:16 AM - Thread Starter
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Oh Boy...

Wow, I did not even pick up on that. Stupid iPad changing words on me again. lol

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post #113 of 161 Old 08-28-2012, 09:19 AM - Thread Starter
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Do you have an Ikea within reasonable driving distance? Many people just use Wal-mart pillows, but I'm going to check these out today for my build - http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/80129179/

Yes I do. Let me know what you think of them. I would have never thought to put a whole pillow in there. Would have thought something that takes up that much space would have adverse effects on the sound. Must this be calculated i when picking the internal volume of the enclosure

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post #114 of 161 Old 08-28-2012, 09:23 AM - Thread Starter
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Be very careful with the Tnuts if you're using anything smaller than 1/4-20...If you start them off center in the slightest they will bind and possibly push the teeth out the bottom, thus causing the tnut to spin and you to swear (a lot). I had this happen with three tnuts on my build. I started all of my bolts by hand and I was very cautious not to cross thread and it still happened to me. You want to talk about a pain in my A*S. I used 10-24 thread socket cap bolts because the mounting screw holes were really small on my subs. I will never use tnuts that small again. 1/4-20 sizes have never given me any trouble and I will never use anything smaller than 1/4-20 tnuts on anything I build for the rest of my life. Reaching around bracing trying to use needle nose pliers to grab something you can't see while trying to twist a bolt with your other hand and not stab the speaker surround is very stressful.
So, be careful with the stupid tnuts! they are the greatest and worst invention ever.

Hmmm...never even thought of that. I just remember reading somewhere they are better than using drywall screws. for the record these are the ones I have in my cart right now.

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=260-778&scqty=1

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post #115 of 161 Old 08-28-2012, 01:38 PM
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Those are 1/4-20's, you'll be fine. The greater thread spacing you get with 1/4-20 bolts allow for a much easier starting to the threads (less risk of cross threading).
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post #116 of 161 Old 08-28-2012, 08:15 PM - Thread Starter
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What is anyone's thought aut using a 35 ft extension cord to power my iNuke? I am in a 60 some year old house with weird wiring and have two outlets in my current room on separate circuits...but they are on opposite sides of the room. My outlet up front for my rack already has an Onkyo TX-NR1008, PS3, Xbox360, Boston Acoustic MCS-100 10" sub, and a FIOS cable box on it and a pretty sure it cannot take the iNuke without tripping.

My only real choice is to either run a 35 ft extension cord from the back outlet around the room to the rack or put the amp on the table next to the outlet and run an XLR cord around the room. I would rather use the extension cord so I can put the iNuke in the a/v rack, but not sure if it is alright to have a 35 ft extension going to an amp.

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post #117 of 161 Old 08-28-2012, 08:31 PM
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so long as you have a properly sized wire for your power and your run, you are fine.

something along this line is probably what you are looking for:

http://www.amazon.com/US-Wire-65050-50-Foot-Extension/dp/B002HWRS6S/ref=pd_cp_hi_2

the 12/3 is the important part (along with the UL/OSHA certifications). that means 3 wires (hot, neutral, ground) are 12 gauge. power saws and many other tools really pull the current and that is what heats up the cord. this one should be fine long after your trip your breaker.

if you go cheap and get really thin wire, it can (and will) get really hot under load. it will melt right through the insulator and can start a fire, so don't hesitate to spend the extra coin on this one.

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post #118 of 161 Old 08-28-2012, 09:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smigro View Post

What is anyone's thought aut using a 35 ft extension cord to power my iNuke? I am in a 60 some year old house with weird wiring and have two outlets in my current room on separate circuits...but they are on opposite sides of the room. My outlet up front for my rack already has an Onkyo TX-NR1008, PS3, Xbox360, Boston Acoustic MCS-100 10" sub, and a FIOS cable box on it and a pretty sure it cannot take the iNuke without tripping.
My only real choice is to either run a 35 ft extension cord from the back outlet around the room to the rack or put the amp on the table next to the outlet and run an XLR cord around the room. I would rather use the extension cord so I can put the iNuke in the a/v rack, but not sure if it is alright to have a 35 ft extension going to an amp.

I do it and its fine. As long as it is at least 14/3 you "should" be ok.
Behringer doesn't say what the recommend breaker current be, they just say a 10amp/250v slow blow fuse (whatever that works out to be I guess eek.gif).
I would imagine most people run them on 15 amp circuits without any problems.
Technically you should get one that is actually rated for the breaker you have, most hydroponic shops or hardware stores will carry fairly heavy duty stuff for power tools and grow lights biggrin.gif

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post #119 of 161 Old 08-28-2012, 09:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Smigro View Post

Yes I do. Let me know what you think of them. I would have never thought to put a whole pillow in there. Would have thought something that takes up that much space would have adverse effects on the sound. Must this be calculated i when picking the internal volume of the enclosure

Ikea pillows come in a nice little bundle so you don't get as many weird looks when you buy 24 at a time biggrin.gif

Pretty much 1 lb. of poly per pillow so I'll be doing 1 pillow per cu. ft.

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post #120 of 161 Old 08-29-2012, 03:40 AM - Thread Starter
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LTD/Bass - cool, I figured as long as I went big enough it would be OK. I would rather do this so I can put it in my rack.

Vexed - Nice, so with 4 cu. ft. I should look at getting four of them. I will make a trip there over the weekend.

Xbox GT / PSN ID - Smigro

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