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post #91 of 143 Old 03-20-2013, 01:57 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the email, Ryan. It definitely helped me get back on the right track.

Here's a test that's basically the crossover you sent me, with a couple tweaks on the HP. (Ignore the rising response from like 5kHz up. I didn't have a small enough capacitor for the RC contour, so it rises too much right now)



The bass sounds much better now. The problem at about 7-800Hz is there, but I'm working on a design right now that should mitigate that.

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post #92 of 143 Old 03-25-2013, 05:31 PM - Thread Starter
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Alrighty. This time I've got the real final design, incorporating some baffle step compensation. Many thanks to tuxedocivic for the help, and guiding me to what I think is a good stopping place.

Here's the circuit that I'll be using for my crossover:



And this is what it looks like inside:

(Horizontal)


(Vertical)


Also, here's a comparison of what it looked like before the BSC design, and the final design. (It also leads me to believe that the hump at about 500 Hz is just from being in the room, since it shows up on both indoor measurements, but not the ones taken outside using the pre-BSC crossover)



I've ordered the parts, and they're on their way. Hopefully by the end of the week I'll have the boards soldered up and installed and I can start enjoying these speakers!

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post #93 of 143 Old 03-25-2013, 05:52 PM
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500hz is a little high for a room issue but I agree that it is. Also the dip at 225hz. Those are also a multiple of of each other.

Looks great!
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post #94 of 143 Old 03-29-2013, 02:42 PM - Thread Starter
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Finally complete and set up! I love these things. They're so clear, especially at high levels. I can listen to these at levels where I was experiencing discomfort with my other speakers. It's been a long process and I'm glad to finally enjoy these.

Many thanks to EricH, tuxedocivic, and Bwaslo for the parts and the help to get these completed!

Here's the finished XO layout:


Before


After


I literally started laughing after I set them up. They look absolutely ridiculous in my tiny space-- especially with my little TV.

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post #95 of 143 Old 03-29-2013, 02:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott C. View Post


I literally started laughing after I set them up. They look absolutely ridiculous in my tiny space-- especially with my little TV.

LOL have you seen my pics? i feel the same way

those look great as well
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post #96 of 143 Old 03-29-2013, 03:05 PM
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You must like audio more than video biggrin.gif
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post #97 of 143 Old 03-29-2013, 03:15 PM
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They look really good! Where are you crossing them over to the sub? They should really crank compared to the smaller infinity's. nice work!
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post #98 of 143 Old 03-29-2013, 03:18 PM
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The photo makes those speakers look small tongue.gif

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post #99 of 143 Old 03-29-2013, 04:56 PM
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The photo makes those speakers look small tongue.gif

Nah, those are the bookshelf versions! biggrin.gif
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post #100 of 143 Old 03-29-2013, 05:09 PM - Thread Starter
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Haha, thanks guys! They're crossed over at 80Hz

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post #101 of 143 Old 04-09-2013, 08:06 AM
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Nice build!

I am thinking about doing the same thing. I have 2 X 2512 and 2 X Delta Pro 12a. I currently have them in a BFM OmniTop 12 but wanted to try something different.

Would these be ok for pro sound applications (small weddings, clubs etc) ?
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post #102 of 143 Old 04-09-2013, 09:25 AM
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Originally Posted by loudsubz View Post

Nice build!

I am thinking about doing the same thing. I have 2 X 2512 and 2 X Delta Pro 12a. I currently have them in a BFM OmniTop 12 but wanted to try something different.

Would these be ok for pro sound applications (small weddings, clubs etc) ?
You'll give up about 5dB of sensitivity.

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post #103 of 143 Old 04-09-2013, 09:44 AM
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Thanks Bill.

With the Seos-12 WG do you get about the same horizontal dispersion as with the melded array in your cabs?
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post #104 of 143 Old 04-09-2013, 10:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by loudsubz View Post

Thanks Bill.

With the Seos-12 WG do you get about the same horizontal dispersion as with the melded array in your cabs?
Not by a long shot, nor can they be vertically arrayed, and they don't have the vertical pattern control you want for long throws in acoustically bad rooms. For what they're intended for they're a good design, they're just not intended for the same use as OTops are. By the same token that's why OTops aren't recommended for HT use.

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post #105 of 143 Old 04-09-2013, 11:18 AM
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Scott, very nice.
Love the before and after pics. Remember to experiment with toe angles.

Quote:
Originally Posted by loudsubz View Post

Would these be ok for pro sound applications (small weddings, clubs etc) ?


Bill makes a good point. But yes, for a small wedding, they'd be great properly set-up and aligned with an adequate LF system.

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post #106 of 143 Old 05-08-2013, 11:34 AM - Thread Starter
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Well I finally managed to get outside to test out the final crossover design, and I have to say I'm much happier with the low end. Where it used to roll off starting at 500Hz, it's now rolling off at 100Hz outdoors. It looks a little different than I remembered on the upper end, but I guess that's just because I never got to test the final design outdoors. I've still got a lot to learn, but I'm very happy with this design. +/- 2.5 dB is good enough for me.

Anywho, here are the plots. This first one is an overlay of all 3 of the speakers. They're very consistent.




Next is the horizontal plots. I forgot to include the legend, but each trace is 10* farther off axis.


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post #107 of 143 Old 09-17-2013, 09:27 PM
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bump. that looks quite nice!

Listen. It's All Good.
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post #108 of 143 Old 09-18-2013, 07:11 AM
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Nice bump. I am going to give this thread a thorough read. Lots of good in here. biggrin.gif

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"Too much is almost enough. Anything in life worth doing is worth overdoing. Moderation is for cowards."
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post #109 of 143 Old 10-04-2013, 01:12 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks guys. Just moved a couple months ago (and upgraded the video portion of my setup biggrin.gif). Unfortunately there still isn't a good spot for my third one. I'll just have to wait until I can have a dedicated room. The MFW-15 subs actually ended up working very well as stands for these. It's not the perfect placement for the subs, but it does well enough, and puts the SEOS right at ear height.



Overall I'm extremely pleased. I've cranked these bad boys up a few times, and either I have some very tolerant neighbors or the construction of this place is unnaturally good. Either way I try not to push my luck.
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post #110 of 143 Old 10-04-2013, 01:18 PM
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Scott C.,

MFW-15s for stands?
NICE!!, you Texans do indeed know how to go big biggrin.gif
Your setup looks good.

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Check out a video of my theater here
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post #111 of 143 Old 10-05-2013, 02:21 PM
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so the all important question is...did it count for course credit? :-)

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post #112 of 143 Old 10-05-2013, 06:29 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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so the all important question is...did it count for course credit? :-)

Haha, absolutely! And I've got the degree to prove it smile.gif

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post #113 of 143 Old 10-05-2013, 07:22 PM
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that is a really nice "core" setup that you have there--high sensitivity mid/tops and powered subwoofers to try to keep up. i'm sure that i'll point more than one person to your picture and say..."just do that!"

those walls look a little naked. maybe next project could be to wrap up some rigid fiberglass board with some acoustically transparent material for some mid-bass rear and side wall absorption.

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post #114 of 143 Old 10-07-2013, 12:34 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post

those walls look a little naked. maybe next project could be to wrap up some rigid fiberglass board with some acoustically transparent material for some mid-bass rear and side wall absorption.

Unfortunately placement isn't ideal for sidewall absorption. Left is open to the dining/kitchen area which is good, but right is a window. I'm looking into some heavy curtains. As for the front wall, the treatments would need to go all the way down behind the speakers, correct? I'm kind of my own enemy in this case since this is my general (only) living area and I think it would look weird to have something on the wall go down behind the speakers. Thankfully the waveguides help in those respects, and I don't mind waiting for a dedicated room to reach that next level smile.gif. If I could do it now, though, that'd be great. Any suggestions?

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post #115 of 143 Old 10-07-2013, 07:54 PM
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just think'n about that rear wall and your mid-bass...

maybe something simple like this:





http://www.mh-audio.nl/CancellationFreq.asp

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post #116 of 143 Old 10-07-2013, 07:59 PM - Thread Starter
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Hmm. I might be able to make something work. Do you think 2" of oc703 or whatever number it is would attenuate enough of the midbass?

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post #117 of 143 Old 10-07-2013, 08:07 PM
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http://www.bobgolds.com/AbsorptionCoefficients.htm
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post #118 of 143 Old 10-08-2013, 05:18 AM
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I would go with two 2' by 4' panels made out of two layers of stacked 2" OC703 behind the mains on the front wall. So that would be 4" total and I would recommend using a 4" air gap between ths panel and the wall.
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post #119 of 143 Old 10-08-2013, 07:24 AM
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+1

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post #120 of 143 Old 10-08-2013, 10:16 AM
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I agree and often point out SBIR effects too.

However, if possible, one can also move the mains backward as close as possible to the boundary. Thus raising the interaction frequency up out of the omni range, and more into the directional range.

Or, just for argument, best case results yielded from full baffle wall, flush-mounted, of course not applicable here, but want to illustrate the theoretical ideal (half space/2pi loading efficiencies, no SBIR, low diffraction).

----

Scott C, love the nice clean system, nice pic, thanks for sharing ..

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