SEOS-12 / DNA-360 / Delta 10A build - AVS Forum
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Old 09-05-2012, 10:30 AM - Thread Starter
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I started a new thread since I ended up not using any of the drivers I listed in the title of my previous thread. Construction of these starts tomorrow!

Outside dimensions of the box:

22” tall, 14.5” wide, and 9.25” deep. The front baffle, top, and bottom of the enclosures are being doubled up to 1.5”. I’ll add bracing between the 10A and the DNA-360.

After the port, bracing, and drivers the internal volume should be right around .90 cu.ft.

The slot port will be 8.25” wide, 1.5” tall, and 4.75” deep (includes the 1.5” from the front baffle). That should make a 70hz tune or very close to it.

Using my DCX I’ll fine tune the crossovers points/slopes and then build passive crossovers.

UPDATE:





























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Old 09-05-2012, 04:27 PM - Thread Starter
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10A compared to the 6.5" in my Definitives:





Much bigger!
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Old 09-05-2012, 10:25 PM
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I just finished measuring my speaker. You gotta shut this woofer down above 2khz. The final result is very impressive though. Have fun smile.gif
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Old 09-06-2012, 05:21 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by tuxedocivic View Post

I just finished measuring my speaker. You gotta shut this woofer down above 2khz. The final result is very impressive though. Have fun smile.gif

You end up going sealed or ported?
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Old 09-06-2012, 09:43 AM
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Sealed. But I'm going to try ported. Just lazy and wanted to get the cross over figured out first. Here's my results: http://www.diysoundgroup.com/forum/index.php?topic=68.msg647#new

That's with a different compression driver though.
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Old 09-06-2012, 12:33 PM - Thread Starter
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Sealed. But I'm going to try ported. Just lazy and wanted to get the cross over figured out first. Here's my results: http://www.diysoundgroup.com/forum/index.php?topic=68.msg647#new
That's with a different compression driver though.

Wow, very nice!
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Old 09-06-2012, 12:35 PM - Thread Starter
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All the wood is cut, and these two pieces need to dry for 24 hours



Using a nail gun sure beats pre-drilling and screws!
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Old 09-07-2012, 07:37 AM
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Originally Posted by lukeamdman View Post

All the wood is cut, and these two pieces need to dry for 24 hours

Using a nail gun sure beats pre-drilling and screws!

If you are using a nail gun why do you have to wait 24 hours? I thought the whole point of using the nail gun was so that you didn't have to wait for the glue to dry.

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Old 09-07-2012, 10:59 AM
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Woot another SEOS build, booya.

+1 on waiting for glue to dry - I glued and screwed, and got all three back boxes put together in one go.
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Old 09-07-2012, 12:33 PM - Thread Starter
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If you are using a nail gun why do you have to wait 24 hours? I thought the whole point of using the nail gun was so that you didn't have to wait for the glue to dry.

That's true, and on top of that the PL400 I'm using takes longer to dry than Titebond, so you even more time to "work" before clamping. Yesterday I simply ran out of time.
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Old 09-08-2012, 11:55 AM - Thread Starter
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Added the slot port:



Doubled up the top and bottom:

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Old 09-08-2012, 12:39 PM - Thread Starter
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Look what FedEx just dropped off:





These things are huge!!

There's also no markings on them. How do they tell the 350 from the 360?

I also don't see any mounting hardware, so another trip to Home Depot is in order.
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Old 09-08-2012, 12:55 PM
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Double check the shipping box (not the individual boxes for the CDs), Erich puts a little baggie with your nuts and bolts in the box unless he forgot on this one.
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Old 09-08-2012, 01:05 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Brad Horstkotte View Post

Double check the shipping box (not the individual boxes for the CDs), Erich puts a little baggie with your nuts and bolts in the box unless he forgot on this one.

Bingo! Four bolts plus lock washers were taped to a piece of bubble wrap.

Thanks!
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Old 09-08-2012, 03:24 PM
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The 350's and 360's use different sized bolts. Plus the 360's have different style terminals. I'll eventually get stickers for them.

Each waveguide gets wrapped in bubble wrap. Before I tape both waveguides together, I put the bag of bolts between the waveguides. Surprised you didn't see that when you opened them up. You must have really been tearing into those things! biggrin.gif
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Old 09-08-2012, 03:51 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Erich H View Post

The 350's and 360's use different sized bolts. Plus the 360's have different style terminals. I'll eventually get stickers for them.
Each waveguide gets wrapped in bubble wrap. Before I tape both waveguides together, I put the bag of bolts between the waveguides. Surprised you didn't see that when you opened them up. You must have really been tearing into those things! biggrin.gif

You package these things really well. It took a third time going through all the packaging to find the bolts!

How tight should I fasten the CD to the waveguide?
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Old 09-08-2012, 06:01 PM
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Tighten it till it doesn't quite break!

Actually, just get it so that the bolts won't come loose and hold the driver firmly to the mounting plate. There won't be a lot of vibration on them so they aren't likely to work loose. Certainly more than finger-tight, but not so tight you'd need more than a small wrench to get them off. Do make sure you get them mounted so the driver port centers into the throat - do it in good lighting.

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Old 09-08-2012, 10:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lukeamdman View Post

Added the slot port:

Doubled up the top and bottom:

How did you figure out the dimensions of the slotted port? I see lots of programs that give the dimensions for a cylinderical port but not for a slotted port.
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Old 09-08-2012, 10:15 PM
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WinISD will do circular or rectangular ports
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Old 09-08-2012, 10:20 PM
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Cool, thanks Brad
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Old 09-09-2012, 02:06 AM
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that is way cool - I've tried Delta 10A in a little Karlson cabinet topped with a slotted pipe waveguide and can get some serious punch. Were you tempted to do a dustcap transplant or does your lowpass pretty much kill the audibility of the dustcap's resonances? what is your lowpass filter? does it have some BSC? Is there a screw on version of that cool lookin' driver available? - I need something for coaxials. Some slot and R-J ports seem to come in ~15% lower than prediction.
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Old 09-09-2012, 11:25 AM - Thread Starter
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that is way cool - I've tried Delta 10A in a little Karlson cabinet topped with a slotted pipe waveguide and can get some serious punch. Were you tempted to do a dustcap transplant or does your lowpass pretty much kill the audibility of the dustcap's resonances? what is your lowpass filter? does it have some BSC? Is there a screw on version of that cool lookin' driver available? - I need something for coaxials. Some slot and R-J ports seem to come in ~15% lower than prediction.

Sorry man, I don't really know what you're talking about. I'm new to this.

Dust cap transplant? BSC? Screw on version?
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Old 09-09-2012, 02:34 PM
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under pink noise, Delta 10A's dustcap seems to have some pronounced resonances. Removing it and going to a smaller & softer dustcap might help - but its a gamble - -hopefully the crossover will prevent those resonances from being excited. "BSC" = "baffle step compensation" and is often done to get a reasonably good bass to treble balance as low frequency waves will wrap around a free standing cabinet. It can be done with a larger inductor in the lowpass section or a resistor in parallel with an inductor. Re: "screw-on" - IIRC, (?) Erich mentioned one of the big compression drivers manufactured as a regular 1 3/8" thread which will screw on to standard threaded horns/waveguides and coaxial woofers. What crossover are you using?
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Old 09-09-2012, 03:40 PM - Thread Starter
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under pink noise, Delta 10A's dustcap seems to have some pronounced resonances. Removing it and going to a smaller & softer dustcap might help - but its a gamble - -hopefully the crossover will prevent those resonances from being excited. "BSC" = "baffle step compensation" and is often done to get a reasonably good bass to treble balance as low frequency waves will wrap around a free standing cabinet. It can be done with a larger inductor in the lowpass section or a resistor in parallel with an inductor. Re: "screw-on" - IIRC, (?) Erich mentioned one of the big compression drivers manufactured as a regular 1 3/8" thread which will screw on to standard threaded horns/waveguides and coaxial woofers. What crossover are you using?

At first I'm going active with a DCX2496. Once I find what makes these drivers work really well together I'll build a passive.

From what I've seen from these two drivers, I'm guessing the crossover point will be somewhere around 1,500-1,600hz.
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Old 09-09-2012, 08:19 PM - Thread Starter
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I just weighed the boxes as they sit now with no front baffle (1.5"), no drivers, no cross bracing, and no polyfill at 21lb's. These should weigh around 45lb's when complete!
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Old 09-14-2012, 10:38 PM - Thread Starter
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Had my dad over to help with this portion, and we were making great progress until the bit broke.


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Old 09-17-2012, 08:22 AM
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Had my dad over to help with this portion, and we were making great progress until the bit broke.

How deep were you cutting into the MDF when the bit broke?

You should only be cutting about 1/4" deep with multiple passes, otherwise the bit will overheat.

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Old 09-17-2012, 10:27 AM - Thread Starter
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How deep were you cutting into the MDF when the bit broke?
You should only be cutting about 1/4" deep with multiple passes, otherwise the bit will overheat.

These were 3/8".

So cutting these incrementally is better for the bits?
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Old 09-17-2012, 11:23 AM
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Yup definitely. Also, I don't think you mentioned what type of bit you used, but an up spiral works well, helps clear the debris out of the path (vs. a plain flute bit).
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Old 09-17-2012, 11:28 AM - Thread Starter
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Yup definitely. Also, I don't think you mentioned what type of bit you used, but an up spiral works well, helps clear the debris out of the path (vs. a plain flute bit).

It was a 1/4" straight bit. I was trying to go pretty slow, but the bit was really hot when it broke.
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