What can be done to fix and re-done the pa mid/top boxes I bought. See pics - AVS Forum
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Old 09-16-2012, 01:59 PM - Thread Starter
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Not just they need repainting, but there is dents in the birch plywood, and a few pin sized holes.
I guess normally wood filler would work for that, but dents in birch ply, and even a few small places where the birch ply has splintered from the abuse the cabs look like they have been through.
What can be done about splintered birch ply? It's only the 1st layer that's damaged, not right the way through it.
Would wood filler work on that almost, or would I need someone alse like putty? And should I remove the splintered layer in the wood or leave it and fill it in with putty or wood filler?

I got the enclosures for free if I bought the 10 inch drivers and hf horns with it.

Now moving onto the damaged pair of Eminence ME10-2008. The problem is the solder tag cardboard terminals are hanging loose as both the rivets have snapped on each.
It would be easy if the other half of the broken rivet wasn't jammed solid in the metal frame.
So how am I going to get that out, with risking damaging the cone or spider if I say drilled out the old piece of the broken rivets?
I'm too much of a clumsy person that I'd probably drill right through the cone or spider or make the hole too big in the frame.


Last but not least, where can I get suitable uk based black paint for pa speakers?


I thought that was ideal but I read this:
"Please Note: Tuff Cab is designed primarily for use as a covering for new speaker cabinets and flight cases; due to the potential for reaction between Tuff Cab coating and existing finishes, it is not recommended for re-finishing or touch-up work unless the original paint used is Tuff Cab."

So either I would have to strip all the paint off the enclosures(which would probably be very hard work) and start from scratch or look for a different paint.
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Old 09-18-2012, 07:31 AM
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Nice find.

Stripping off the old paint would be a good thing to do, but time consuming and not strictly necessary.

Dents can be fixed sometimes, depending on severity, by placing a drop or a few drops of water on the dent and using a clothes iron for heat, swelling the wood fibers and filling the dent back out again.
I don't think this method would work well for a painted surface however, and certainly would not be effective for repairing splintered damage.

I say scuff-sand the simple dents and fill them with Bondo autobody filler. Sand smooth.

Splintered damage should be stabilized first with super glue or epoxy, then use Bondo. Sand smooth. I recommend Bondo, because of the severity of the damage you have and Bondo is really tough.

Since you are apprehensive about drilling out the old rivet, I say use an epoxy putty to secure the terminal strip to the frame and to stabilize the old rivet, so it won't rattle.
A liquid epoxy could work, but there you have to be careful about getting it where you don't want it. If you are uncertain that epoxy putty would hold, try ThisToThat. The website will tell you what glue to use for any gluing task.

Once repairs are made to damaged areas on the cab, apply a coat or two of De-Waxed Shellac as a barrier coat, then paint over it with your paint of choice.

Hope this helps.

"Still, a man hears what he wants to hear and disregards the rest." --Paul Simon The Boxer
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Old 10-07-2012, 04:29 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the advice.

So far I bit the bullet and carefully drilled out the snapped rivets, drilling very slowly, taking my time, so I wouldn't go through the spider. Bought a drill bit was a short length on purpose anyway so that if I slipped it wouldn't go through the cone, and worst would be a tiny hole in the spider, but luckily I was careful that it didn't happen.

Didn't have to buy anything apart from Loctite Threadlocker Red 271 which permanently bonds the threads of the nut, washer and pozi head bolt, I used to secure the terminals that I luckily already had.

As for the paint I found something suitable in the end: http://www.thomann.de/gb/warnex_strukturlack_1kg.htm Unlike TuffCab, Warnex speaker cabinet paint doesn't care if it's painted over old different paint. About the same price, but might be a bit more to import it from germany;but worth it in the end.
Do you think 1kg will do a 2-3 coats on both enclosures, or should I buy 2x 1kg pots?

I looked up Bondo autobody filler and that would be WAY too expensive here in the uk, especially to import it from the usa. So would something like Unibond Repair Wood or a similar wood epoxy be suitable for both small dents, small gouges and splintered plywood(only though the 1st layer of the plywood)?
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