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post #2071 of 2273 Old 10-16-2013, 05:33 AM
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Pre-drill the MDF. It is worth the risk not to.

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post #2072 of 2273 Old 10-16-2013, 07:02 AM
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Cool, will attempt to do that!

(DIY is not my strong point lol)
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post #2073 of 2273 Old 10-16-2013, 07:17 AM
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I've never predrilled MDF or ply on any of my installs. Never had split either. ply isnt going to split coming in from that angle.
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post #2074 of 2273 Old 10-16-2013, 07:30 AM
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Quote:
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The silver screw is the one I ended up using. Those do not suck through the gasket. I had to lift it up. It's what I had on hand. Like I said, I've always just used coarse thread 8 gauge drywall screws. They bit very good. Guess next time I should look for some real wood screws....tongue.gif

Also, FWIW, the rubber gasket did not seal for me even using a strip of compression type weather stripping. I had to break out some stuff I had on the shelf for years. Worked real well!


Thanks for the screw recommendations, chaps smile.gif

Should we pre-drill holes or just screw straight into the MDF? If the latter, would the MDF split if screwing in close to an edge (c.1")?

I would and I did with my builds. As aready said, it is not worth the risk. However, If you have scrap pieces, you could run some tests and see if you need to pre-drill.

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post #2075 of 2273 Old 10-16-2013, 07:39 AM
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I like to go extra small on the predrill with MDF baffle cutout myself. It’s good to add ply blocks to the back for extra bite also. I learned the hard way I’m sorry to say. redface.gif
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post #2076 of 2273 Old 10-16-2013, 09:42 AM
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I'm trying to decide what to get to power one of these SI 18 inchers. I'm currently looking at the iNuke NU1000DSP but with it's 600W RMS I wouldn't be using the full potential of the speaker. Would it be worth the extra $100 to step up to the NU3000DSP? That seems like overkill since that I could run two subs off of it and I don't have space for two boxes.

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post #2077 of 2273 Old 10-16-2013, 09:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timmyotule View Post

I'm trying to decide what to get to power one of these SI 18 inchers. I'm currently looking at the iNuke NU1000DSP but with it's 600W RMS I wouldn't be using the full potential of the speaker. Would it be worth the extra $100 to step up to the NU3000DSP? That seems like overkill since that I could run two subs off of it and I don't have space for two boxes.

just bridge the Inuke 1000
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post #2078 of 2273 Old 10-16-2013, 09:46 AM
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For only $100 you should be considering the 3000. Or just get a regular behringer ep4000 which can usually be found for around $300-$350. It could still operate two subs, so you would have options should you ever decide to squeeze another one in somewhere biggrin.gif

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post #2079 of 2273 Old 10-16-2013, 10:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timmyotule View Post

I'm trying to decide what to get to power one of these SI 18 inchers. I'm currently looking at the iNuke NU1000DSP but with it's 600W RMS I wouldn't be using the full potential of the speaker. Would it be worth the extra $100 to step up to the NU3000DSP? That seems like overkill since that I could run two subs off of it and I don't have space for two boxes.

Absolutely go for the Inuke DSP 3000 for sub use over the Inuke DSP 1000. I think the DSP 1000 is only good for small sub projects or transducers. It just doesn't have enough power to drive many large sub projects.

You'll likely not stop at 1 sub, and with the second channel you can either play with buttkickers or get a second sub at some point.

"Without subs it's just background music - with subs it's the main event!"

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post #2080 of 2273 Old 10-16-2013, 10:13 AM
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Originally Posted by wormraper View Post

just bridge the Inuke 1000

Which gets me the 600W or so RMS. Yeah that will probably be fine. I'd rather go with a DSP iNuke over the EP models for the DSP capabilities. I know I could add a MiniDSP to the EP amp but that's another $100.

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post #2081 of 2273 Old 10-16-2013, 10:20 AM
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Which gets me the 600W or so RMS. Yeah that will probably be fine. I'd rather go with a DSP iNuke over the EP models for the DSP capabilities. I know I could add a MiniDSP to the EP amp but that's another $100.

You will be dissappointed with the inuke1000. If you are only building one sub, what size are you thinking? bridged 1000 watts out is unrealistic too if you ask me. More like 5-600 is reasonable, but then you are completely tapped out. Id rather er on the side of a little more power than a little less. You should trust me on this. With just a single 18 it will rock, but you'll want a little amp headroom to go with it.

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post #2082 of 2273 Old 10-16-2013, 10:32 AM
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Question for you fellows that are familiar with the SI-18 subwoofers.

I have one SI-18 up and running and another one almost done. The box is 22x22x22 outside dimension, Internal dimension is 20.5x20.5x20.5. Which yeilds about 4.9 cuft, not accounting for the driver and bracing. I stuffed the box with approximately 3 pillows worth of polyfill.

If I go off of SI's information, I should be right around 6cuft which is optimal for this subwoofer.

I'm powering it with one channel of an EP2500, at 4 ohm.

I've gotten about 6-8hrs of playing time on the subwoofer now. I don't know how to describe it, but the sound is kind of "dry" to me. The bass is not "warm" and deep like I'm use to with my old SVS. The output is deffinately more than the SVS, and is tight and accurate, which I like.

I'm thinking I may need to add or remove some of the polyfill. Am I on the right track or does the subwoofer need some break-in time?

I've tried switching amps, and that didn't help much.

Any input is appreciated. I don't want to have to cary the subwoofer out and take it apart multiple times. The thing is heavy, and moving it by myself is not an option....
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post #2083 of 2273 Old 10-16-2013, 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post

You will be dissappointed with the inuke1000. If you are only building one sub, what size are you thinking? bridged 1000 watts out is unrealistic too if you ask me. More like 5-600 is reasonable, but then you are completely tapped out. Id rather er on the side of a little more power than a little less. You should trust me on this. With just a single 18 it will rock, but you'll want a little amp headroom to go with it.

Yeah, better to just skip ahead and get the NU6000. I got the 3K and started wishing I had got the 6K about a month later. biggrin.gifwink.gif
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post #2084 of 2273 Old 10-16-2013, 11:16 AM
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Question for you fellows that are familiar with the SI-18 subwoofers.

I have one SI-18 up and running and another one almost done. The box is 22x22x22 outside dimension, Internal dimension is 20.5x20.5x20.5. Which yeilds about 4.9 cuft, not accounting for the driver and bracing. I stuffed the box with approximately 3 pillows worth of polyfill.

If I go off of SI's information, I should be right around 6cuft which is optimal for this subwoofer.

I'm powering it with one channel of an EP2500, at 4 ohm.

I've gotten about 6-8hrs of playing time on the subwoofer now. I don't know how to describe it, but the sound is kind of "dry" to me. The bass is not "warm" and deep like I'm use to with my old SVS. The output is deffinately more than the SVS, and is tight and accurate, which I like.

I'm thinking I may need to add or remove some of the polyfill. Am I on the right track or does the subwoofer need some break-in time?

I've tried switching amps, and that didn't help much.

Any input is appreciated. I don't want to have to cary the subwoofer out and take it apart multiple times. The thing is heavy, and moving it by myself is not an option....

Do you have any EQ on the low end? Sealed subs are going to sound different than ported without a little low-end boost. Was your SVS ported?

(European models do not accept banana plugs.)

 

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post #2085 of 2273 Old 10-16-2013, 11:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timmyotule View Post

I'm trying to decide what to get to power one of these SI 18 inchers. I'm currently looking at the iNuke NU1000DSP but with it's 600W RMS I wouldn't be using the full potential of the speaker. Would it be worth the extra $100 to step up to the NU3000DSP? That seems like overkill since that I could run two subs off of it and I don't have space for two boxes.

Timmyotule, where you located? I have a iNuke NU6000DSP lying around which I am looking to unload.

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post #2086 of 2273 Old 10-16-2013, 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post

Do you have any EQ on the low end? Sealed subs are going to sound different than ported without a little low-end boost. Was your SVS ported?

No EQ on the low end yet. I'll get the MiniDSP up and going one of these days.

My SVS was ported.
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post #2087 of 2273 Old 10-16-2013, 01:53 PM
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No EQ on the low end yet. I'll get the MiniDSP up and going one of these days.

My SVS was ported.

The minidsp will help, and the ported svs probably had a much different sonic signature. Give the new sub a little more time to break in as well. The sealed will more than likely be lower in THD than the ported and that might be why it sounds more "dry" Unfortunately, this "dry" usually equates with "more accurate" and people just aren't used to a low THD system. You could try removing about half the poly and seeing what you've got, doesn't hurt to try, especially before you install the other one. Then you won't make the same mistake twice. Report back once you have!

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post #2088 of 2273 Old 10-16-2013, 01:55 PM
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@Thucker.

Well the driver is .25 ^3 of displacemt. How much bracing did you use. Home theater shack has an awesome calculator, even for bracing.

I would suggest finding out your exact net volume and then adding polyfill in a calculated method, IE... Weighing it. I added .5 lbs per cubic foot.

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post #2089 of 2273 Old 10-16-2013, 02:00 PM
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The minidsp will help, and the ported svs probably had a much different sonic signature. Give the new sub a little more time to break in as well. The sealed will more than likely be lower in THD than the ported and that might be why it sounds more "dry" Unfortunately, this "dry" usually equates with "more accurate" and people just aren't used to a low THD system. You could try removing about half the poly and seeing what you've got, doesn't hurt to try, especially before you install the other one. Then you won't make the same mistake twice. Report back once you have!

Thank you. I'll give them some more playing time and see how it sounds once broken in. I do notice the sound is getting slightly "warmer" as I play it more and more.

I'll spend more time with it in the next couple of weeks, and see how it goes.

Don't get me wrong, I love it the output, and the accurate and tight bass I'm getting.
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post #2090 of 2273 Old 10-16-2013, 02:24 PM
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Timmyotule, where you located? I have a iNuke NU6000DSP lying around which I am looking to unload.

I'm in Seattle. If you feel like shipping it feel free to PM me but that's alot more amp then I'm looking for. If it were for myself I'd maybe consider one of the larger amps but it is for a friend that is going to have the box built into a custom entertainment cabinet so there won't be room for expansion later on as it isn't a dedicated HT.

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post #2091 of 2273 Old 10-17-2013, 11:45 AM
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Quick question for you guys. Ive settled on building two sealed 5cf enclosures powered by an NU3000dsp. I can't remember the exact q but it's around .74. Since its lower than .8 ive read that I wont have to use any fill.

Should I be lining the back wall to damp the backwave off the cone? Or all of the walls? And if so what is a material I can find locally other than fiberglass? Could a foam mattress pad be used?
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post #2092 of 2273 Old 10-17-2013, 11:50 AM
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Line all the walls if you can. I use fiberglass insulation but you could use the foam also if you want.


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post #2093 of 2273 Old 10-17-2013, 01:44 PM
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I was thinking about using something other than fiberglass because Ive heard it breaks up during use and particles get all over the cone. Any idea if thats true and if it will damage anything? Also what thickness is adequate?
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post #2094 of 2273 Old 10-17-2013, 01:46 PM
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Scott simonian has pink fluffy in his LLT's and it hasn't budged for how long now? Insulation will work just fine smile.gif Use the standard in-wall batts.

(European models do not accept banana plugs.)

 

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post #2095 of 2273 Old 10-17-2013, 01:56 PM
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I was thinking about using something other than fiberglass because Ive heard it breaks up during use and particles get all over the cone. Any idea if thats true and if it will damage anything? Also what thickness is adequate?

Just throw a pillow in it. Staple the corners to the back wall of the box and call it good.
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post #2096 of 2273 Old 10-17-2013, 03:17 PM
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Back to a question I asked earlier, if anyone can provide some input, I'd appreciate it.

I have my SI-18 in a 4.9cuft sealed box. I have approximately 3lbs of polyfill in there. Am I overdamped and need to remove some?

I have the polyfill fluffed and stuffed in there, not tightly packed but the box is full.
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post #2097 of 2273 Old 10-17-2013, 03:28 PM
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Back to a question I asked earlier, if anyone can provide some input, I'd appreciate it.

I have my SI-18 in a 4.9cuft sealed box. I have approximately 3lbs of polyfill in there. Am I overdamped and need to remove some?

I have the polyfill fluffed and stuffed in there, not tightly packed but the box is full.

Your box is big enough, so at this point its subjective. Take some out or add some more until you get the sound you want. Don't exceed the 1lb/cubic foot is all.

Ive never used it in boxes that were sized correctly, with the exception of this SI woofer.

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post #2098 of 2273 Old 10-18-2013, 07:43 AM
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I placed one intact Walmart pillow in each box behind the braces where it is held in place very well without stapling it to the walls. I am using Erich's 4cuft flatpacks. Do I need to line the sidewalls with foam or can I just leave them bare? Don't want to overdamp the cabinet.

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post #2099 of 2273 Old 10-18-2013, 08:55 AM
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Just throw a pillow in it. Staple the corners to the back wall of the box and call it good.

The old quick and dirty we call that. I know you don’t do that with bracing. wink.gifbiggrin.gif

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post #2100 of 2273 Old 10-18-2013, 10:13 AM
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The old quick and dirty we call that. I know you don’t do that with bracing. wink.gifbiggrin.gif

I didn't say you had to use a dirty pillow did I?
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