HELP, how to soundproof 14 channels of bass??? (Building a bass vault/bunker.) - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 20 Old 09-21-2012, 09:21 PM - Thread Starter
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I'm buying a new house and I need idea's for building a soundproof bass bunker. I was thinking of building a room inside of a room with 3 layers of 3/4" insulated MDF and at least 1 layer of drywall in addition to that, anchored directly to the concrete (not just staggered studs but rather, totally isolated by the earth foundation).

Each MDF layer would be sealed with caulking.
Is that going to be good enough? Should I use a layer of masonry bricks as well?

I'm looking for -70db attenuation or better in the bass region... (if that's even possible).
I was thinking maybe 10inches thick, I mean how thick should I make the walls and with what?

The room has to be seriously serious, no messing around, doubled-up drywall won't be enough.

Ideally I want to be able to blast music at full clip at 2am and have nobody inside or outside the house hear it. That doable?

When I fire up the other 5 channels, it's gonna get pretty darn loud. biggrin.gif



(Note: I haven't picked a house yet, but the move will happen in november.)

My new house will be bigger and better but the AV room with be smaller (probably 15x20ft) and the yard will be a more standard/conventional size.
My existing house has lots of yard space so I've been able to "get away with it" without using any thus far, well... sort of... eek.giftongue.gif



My bad biggrin.gif
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post #2 of 20 Old 09-21-2012, 10:03 PM
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You should start this thread in home entertainment and theater builder section under dedicated theater design and construction. You will get lot of help there!
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post #3 of 20 Old 09-21-2012, 10:12 PM
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post #4 of 20 Old 09-21-2012, 10:18 PM
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Build a room inside a room, but the inside room is not physically connected to anything other than the wires needed for power etc..., hover the room on an array of magnets like the ones they use for maglev trains.
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post #5 of 20 Old 09-21-2012, 11:51 PM
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If your thinking of the basement, the best would probably be cinder block layed on the foundation. Not sure about the roof of this room. I think you have to see what your dealing with first before you really can come up with a plan to sound proof.
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post #6 of 20 Old 09-22-2012, 01:05 AM
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post #7 of 20 Old 09-22-2012, 08:23 AM
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post #8 of 20 Old 09-22-2012, 09:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BassThatHz View Post

The room has to be seriously serious, no messing around, doubled-up drywall won't be enough.

If you really are serious about this, which you seem you are, your space needs to be professionally designed by someone who really knows what they are doing, and here is a name that comes up over and over.

http://www.erskine-group.com/about.php

Good luck on that Hz biggrin.gif

AJ
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post #9 of 20 Old 09-22-2012, 01:54 PM
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You should check in with MKTheater. His theater is pretty sound proof iirc.


dbl

Let's all go to the lobby
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post #10 of 20 Old 09-22-2012, 05:29 PM
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jon b, that is a great link.

Listen. It's All Good.
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post #11 of 20 Old 09-22-2012, 06:07 PM
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This a very difficult task. Studios spend 100's of thousand of dollars for the kind of isolation your are asking for. It's not all just a out masses of material stacked on top of each other either. Air gaps help a lot too. Even if you use masonry and multiple layers of material for the walls, what about the ceiling? That's the most difficult area to get right if you are in the basement and have living quarters over top. You need to consider a detached building if you are serious, because by the time you make some walls and ceiling that even begin to approach what you want, you will have no space left except for your own chair. Hee hee, maybe that's what you want!

Greg
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post #12 of 20 Old 09-23-2012, 11:47 AM - Thread Starter
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I was planning on doing two double-sliding exterior doors with MDF on either side of both panes of glass as the entrance.
Beyond anything, the ceiling and HVAC are going to be the most challenging for sure; not matter where or what it is. Using cement or brick is probably not practical for that.

For sure though, the inner room won't touch the outer room; there will be no structural transmission paths except through the cement foundation of the house, which will be isolated with at least two layers of matting along with the OSB and MDF and insulation and carpet.
The only air leaks will be the HVAC and wiring-hose conduits.
I was hoping to find an incomplete detached shop or enough backyard to build a detached boom-room, that would be most ideal. Otherwise I may have to compromise on the design so as not to make the roof or width retardedly small.

The house will also need (at least) a 200 amp service.
I also want to build an amp rack adjacent to the room to eliminate all fan noise.

I plan to build the entire thing by myself (with the exception of the outermost exterior if it is brand new building). If you want it done right, ya gotta D.I.Y. biggrin.gif
It is gonna be my biggest project yet, it will likely take me months to finish.
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post #13 of 20 Old 09-23-2012, 06:45 PM
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You could do a mini split A\C and heating system that would be only for that room. That way you could separate it entirely from the rest of the house.

http://www.ductless-air-conditioners.com/

Dumb enough to spend lots of cash on this junk!
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post #14 of 20 Old 09-29-2012, 09:04 PM - Thread Starter
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Think I found a new house to live in, check this out. Looking at inside tomorrow.

Fingers-crossed...

Basically it has an existing detached partially-finished 30x25ft concrete bunker, with furnace, HW and electrical roughed in. Which of course I would gut and beef-up substantially to make it a proper boom-room.

It is sitting on 30,000 sq ft of space, so additionally I was thinking of building a 20x40 indoor swimming pool and an outdoor hot tub and adding another full bath, second kitchen, and 4th bedroom, paving the driveway and possibly extending the garage with a basic woodworking shop; at minimum to bring it up to my expectations out of a house.

All said and done, that would take up the lower right-hand corner of the lot, bringing the house size into the 4000-7000 sq ft range, depending on how far I take the remodelling.
Basically, this would be a house I would want to die in, or live at least 10-15 years in.

The remaining half of the yard would remain grass, with the potential for building a second house to rent out, or whatever... sky's the limit.

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post #15 of 20 Old 09-30-2012, 11:52 AM - Thread Starter
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Here is some inside pictures, 30x25ft tonnes of space it's perfect, I'd gut the inside to the bare metal, everything would go except the studs and the concrete.

Where the green hose is, that's a walk-in freezer, that would have to go, maybe I could turn that into a bar table inside the theater.

It only has a 50 or 100amp service in there, so that would probably have to be beefed up to a 200.
The ceiling is only what, 7ft? That is going to be a challenge to soundproof, not sure what to do about that; I may just have to live with it as it is, going higher would probably violate zoning code.
Other than that, it's golden.

Front:


Side:


Back:


Inside:

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post #16 of 20 Old 09-30-2012, 12:32 PM - Thread Starter
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Here's what 1 floor of 15,000sq ft looks like. Not too "shaby" at all. I might just be able to make a "little" something something on this biggrin.gif... and then, what would I do with the other half??? An indoor shooting range, a 4 car garage with metalshop and woodshop and a basketball court and 3 indoor swimming pools or something? Good god man, my head just exploded!!! eek.gif


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post #17 of 20 Old 09-30-2012, 05:27 PM
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Are you buying?

If so, you could totally jackhammer out some of that foundation to give you more headroom.

I helped a friend build out a theater and he did a sheetrock bunker in a 7ft high room... It trurned out (in my opinion) way too tight...

 

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post #18 of 20 Old 09-30-2012, 05:37 PM
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I know things are a LOT different up there but doing that many renovations would cost more than building on some good priced land in most situations around here.
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post #19 of 20 Old 09-30-2012, 07:35 PM - Thread Starter
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I had the highest offer (YES!!!!). I went above asking price to ensure I was #1. It's all but written in stone now. (Yep I'm buying.)
The ride-on lawn mower and all existing appliances are included, which will be going into the second kitchen and new stuff for the main one will be purchased.

On second thought... it could be 8ft, I haven't actually measured it, I was just eyeballing it; if that's the case, there would be enough to do 1 raised row of seats, I could probably fit 10 seats in there no problemo, 5 each row.

Winter is approaching so I'll have to move at breakneck speed to get the minimum structure up and heated... there may not be enough time actually.
But I was thinking of building those extra rooms officially as an "in-law/guest suite" off the boom-room, the permit will be cheaper that way and less restrictive. Air conditioning work can wait until summer.
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post #20 of 20 Old 09-30-2012, 09:34 PM
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Sounds good, hope you know inlaw suites will only appraise at 30-40% of what they cost to build. Sounds like you have the cash to pay for it out right but just a word of advice. Its no big deal if paying cash for everything and want to live there forever, just dont ever plan on getting your money back or even close to it on any seperate structure that is not attached to the actual living space of the main house.

I only say this stuff because I just spent well over 100k on my out door boom boom room and was hoping to refinance since interest rates are at all time lows. I was only able to refinance the main house. I had to pay out of pocket for every thing else minus around 30%. There are just too many laws for accessory units and limiting their value. Its stupid but the laws are there.

Good luck with your new place!
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