Horn or ported.
As big and tuned as low as you can accomodate.
You'll need EQ for High Pass.
Sell the dayton and get a pro-amp(prefereably one with EQ) you'll not even wake up the TC with a 500W plate amp.
First off, I'm not bashing your amp. It is a fine sub plate amp. As always with any manufacturer take the published specs with a grain of salt. For example since I couldn't find testing results for your exact amp, take the Dayton Flagship subwoofer amplifier HPSA1000-R.
Measured power output: 512 watts RMS into 8 ohms @ 0.09% THD,
1,024 watts RMS into 4 ohms @ 0.15% THD
Signal to noise ratio: 98 dB (A-weighted)
Parametric EQ: Frequency: 18-80 Hz, Level: -14.5 to +6 dB, Bandwidth: .1-1 Low pass crossover: 30-200 Hz
Phase: 0-180°, continuously adjustable
Dimensions: 17-1/2" W x 4" H (2RU without feet) x 14" D
Power requirements: 110/220 VAC, 60/50 Hz
Dimensions (with feet, without rack ears): 17-1/2" W x 3-7/8" H x 14" D Dimensions (without feet, with rack ears): 19" W x 3-1/2" H x 14" D.
Actual Tested Specs:
High impedance specs are easier to hit and the dayton isn't far off @ 8ohms but 4ohms is almost half the published spec, nevermind these were at 40Hz and the numbers would be lower and more unstable at 20Hz since distortion is already at .33% @ 40Hz.
I would be surprised if the 500W plate amp tested above 300W true RMS output.
Now, having said all that:
Can you link me to those tests? I like the amp just don't believe the specs.
Well it doesn't help.
The dayton amp is a fine plate amp. It appears very well built. You should have no problem besting those commercial subs you mentioned with your current hardware. A properly designed ported sub should perform well with your current setup. As prev mentioned one twelve is gonna drown in your room, it just has too many cubic feet to compress.
One band of EQ will help, you might be able to squash one constructive mode, but thats about it.
I do believe you'll be underpowering the driver:
The amp ships with a 5A fuse. Assuming a max current draw of 5A. 120V*5A=600W. Efficiency is rated at 75%. .75*600=450WRMS This is a generous assumption assuming the amp would pull current at the max rating of the fuse. Acutally its prob pulling close to 3-4 Amps since fuses are over sized(typically by 33%) for acutal current draw dropping your max calculated power to 360WRMS.
Back of the amp claims 500W draw. 500*.75= 375WRMS The amp can't make more power than it draws, its not a generator.
The devil is in the details. They rate their amps 1/3 peak power, not RMS. Measuring "Peak Power" is highly dependent on the methodology used to test. Numbers are only comparable to others tested exactly the same.
If you decide to return the Dayton, I recommend the Behringer NU3000dsp. 620W RMS per channel into 4ohms. Then you can build another sub later and power off the other channel. Trust me you will want another. Sub building is like a sickness, you will want more.
1) I think YOU may be confusing a fuse with a breaker which meets your stated criteria in some cases. Fuses are rated fast blow, slow blow, etc and dont meet any "continuous" requirement. Fast blow "common fuse" blow if they pass more than rated current which in this case is 5A. Slow blow fuses are much more tolerant too transient spikes etc.
2) I never said the 500w was a max rating, but you are correct in that its an average of the power draw. thats a good observation, however depending on the amp architecture some amps draw the same power reguardless of how hard their driven. IDK about the architecture of this one, it states special circiutry but its prob just a tweaked A/B.
Nitpicking someone else's post is easy, why don't you come up with something positive and constructive to add for the OP.