WOAH, it's official, the FP10000Q has audiophile-quality top end (this is a BIG DEAL!!!) - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 10 Old 09-28-2012, 11:02 AM - Thread Starter
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It beat my current tweeter reference-amp for sound quality AND power AND price, which is currently a pair of B&O 1000's.

I don't say this lightly.

But there is a gottcha to it, you have to use a pre-amp with high quality XLR outs, such as an XSP-1 or such.
I don't have an XSP-1 yet, but routed through my crappy sounding BFD and UMC-1 in bypass-mode, it is already beating every other amp I have EVER heard in my life.
There is a bit of background hiss, but I think that is from my BFD, I'll reconfirm that when I buy the XSP-1 which has no such hiss.
More testing is needed, but this changes EVERYTHING!!!

This amp, for this price, seriously embarrasses many many other amps in existence.

I'm seriously contemplating selling off 16 Rack Units worth of amps (~$7000) and replacing them with three or four of these amps, I'd save 10Units of rack space AND would gain a gigawatt more power AND with 4 x the efficiency eek.gif
and I would have nice clear clip indicators, of which most would just be idling along or not even powered on until movie-mode engages.

The only other amp I would bother keeping would be my iTech. All the other amps I have bought are sort-of a waste of time and space, although still very respectable gear in the face of no other such alternative.

and yes, I can hear the difference in most lower-quality gear in the top-end, and no, you won't be able to change my viewpoint on that because I'm actually hearing it wink.gif

If you are using an AVR to power your speakers, unless it is something spectacular, do yourself a favor and upgrade away from it, you might just be nicely surprised with the results. The key word there is: might. I couldn't say 100% sure unless I was there.
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post #2 of 10 Old 09-28-2012, 01:02 PM - Thread Starter
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Here is a comparison vid. You probably wouldn't be able to hear the difference over youtube, but let's try regardless (it is what it is).

All my subs are turned off here, just main speakers. amazingly the B&W's were asking -10db out of the amp for just one mid and one tweet.
(The XTI 4k's are powering the woofers here FYI)

If I were to do it up proper, one FP10kQ would replace both XTI's and both B&O 1000's. Yeah, it's that good smile.gif

BTW, I was able to almost remove all the hiss just by increasing the source feed into the BFD healthily and reduce the amp gain. That makes perfect sense, like duh, how obvious biggrin.gif The BFD in the HF signal path still isn't the best, but that is all I can do at the moment.

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post #3 of 10 Old 09-28-2012, 01:22 PM
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why do you have the BFD in the high signal path to begin with?

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post #4 of 10 Old 09-28-2012, 02:21 PM
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post #5 of 10 Old 09-28-2012, 02:39 PM
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Cool story, bro. biggrin.gif

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post #6 of 10 Old 09-28-2012, 03:09 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post

why do you have the BFD in the high signal path to begin with?

I don't, I use it for subs to convert RCA to XLR, which is the only way I can, but for this test I made an exception.
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post #7 of 10 Old 09-28-2012, 03:41 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by notnyt View Post

This is so unscientific it pains me.

I actually planned on buying a Fluke Analyzer of my own, and when I do, I promise I'll measure the input and output of every device I have and post the fancy charts and graphs for everyone to look at;
but that is months away, I keep pushing it to the bottom of my to-do list because the ROI isn't all that great given their price.
Does anyone actually have one already by chance (or an AP)? If so, where are the charts at man?
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post #8 of 10 Old 09-28-2012, 06:57 PM
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You can perform measurements with rew and a good calibrated mic. *Shrug*
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post #9 of 10 Old 09-29-2012, 11:40 AM - Thread Starter
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Here is a REW. My system is as flat as anyone could expect to have in an L-shaped room with five vibrating 6ft glass windows in it and uninsulated drywall. (That's one of the many reasons why I'm buying a new house with room for making dedicated "bass bunker".) I think the 190hz null is a room issue, haven't figured out the exact cause of that yet and since I'm moving it is no longer a concern.
I can "usually" tell when a product is or isn't being transparent just with my ears, that's why I bought the system I did, my ears are picky and become easily unhappy tongue.gif
It's the same principle of why taste-testers get hired to test food and speaker manufacturers do the same for their products as well, except I'm just an regular joe who likes hearing good sound
and ain't getting paid for it tongue.gif


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post #10 of 10 Old 10-07-2012, 09:44 AM
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Actually, just as a guess, that dip in the 150-200Hz region could very well be a combination of floor dip and speaker-to-front wall cancellation, which, left untreated, will likely follow you to any room. I'm personally still undecided on how much floor dip matters, but front wall can be damped. Can try moving the speakers forward/backward and see if the deep part of the dip moves.
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