I used to be really big into car audio and have a few 10" subs that aren't being used so I figured that I'd put them to use. I want to use two JL 10W7's for my home theater sub build. I know that 10" subs aren't the greatest for HT but I think they'll do fine if put into the proper box. Here's the rundown:
I'm basing this build off of this
. Scroll down to the bottom on the second page.
Room: 12'(Deep) x 16'(Width) with 8' ceilings with wide opening to dining room which is next to it.
-I want to have one sub on each end of the room (16' Width part of room) standing next to my boston acoustics VR3 towers.
-I want sub box to be no higher than 40" (to match VR3's height) ~16" wide and ~22" deep (Can change the width and depth a little).
-Both subs will be powered by a Crown XLS 2500 Class D Pro Amp (775w x 2 @ 4 Ohms, 1200w x 2 @ 2 Ohms)
-I talked to Crown and they stated that the amp has a 24db per octave roll-off at 20Hz so I don't think that I'll need a subsonic filter to protect the sub from overexcursion.
1. I modeled the 10W7 in WinISD and came up with 4^3 ft. box tuned to 20Hz with a 6" flared port measuring 43" but that's without any eq/filter setting which I know will change the curve. Can somebody help me incorporate the crown roll-off into this model? I'm thinking the crown will put out ~900watts to each sub.
2. Do I have to worry about over excursion with this sub?
3. Can I make the whole build out of mdf and then put another layer of birch plywood over the mdf for a nice finishing touch so that I can stain it and put a nice lacquer over the stain? I don't know if gluing the two different materials together will work out ok.
4. I know that i'm going to have to do bracing but don't know how to go about it and how to calculate the space used by bracing, as well
as, the 6" flared port.
5. Do you use polyfill in a ported enclosure or is that only for sealed enclosures?
6. I'm looking at a single 6" flared precision sound port for this build since it's the biggest that they make. Will just the one port be ok?How do I mount it to the box since there's no screw holes and how can I get the 43" length that I need with the 90 degree bend? Is the port velocity ok with this build?
7. What would be a good height to put the sub at? Does it matter?
Thank you everybody! I know that it's a lot but I want to get this beast built!
BTW, on the bottom of the first page there's a WinISD file for this driver that you can download and modify if needed. Just make a note that there's a highpass crossover setting in the EQ/Filter section that needs to be removed as I don't have a HP crossover for the subsonic frequencies.