Making a new enclosure for dayton HF 15" (folded horn?) - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 35 Old 10-01-2012, 09:45 AM - Thread Starter
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I posted a thread about trying to repair my ported enclosure, one of the ports came loose in it. I decided I just want to make a new enclosure, and everyone praises the folded horn designs, so I think we'll take a shot at it.

We're going to reuse our dayton HF 15" driver, and bash 300. I see that Bill's design will work with this driver specifiacally:

http://www.billfitzmaurice.com/THT.html

Are there any other options to browse through before I go ahead and buy his plans? I see this one over here, and am wondering how it would work with this driver:

http://www.avsforum.com/t/1329971/lilmikes-cinema-f-20

I just want to see what my options are before I buy the plans really, and any tips would be cool. If I go with Bill's plans, I'd really like to go with the 36" wide one, but my doors aren't big enough frown.gif so If we go that route we'll have to asseble it in our living room unfortunately, and then take it apart when we move...

Does the bigger tuba HT make a huge difference over the smaller one? Our living room is roughly 16ft x 20ft x 10ft.
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post #2 of 35 Old 10-01-2012, 09:57 AM
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A fifteen loaded THT may be built from 18 to 36 inches wide,
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post #3 of 35 Old 10-01-2012, 10:11 AM
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Also note that there is a separate plan for the THT LP, in case that form factor works better for you (did for me)
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post #4 of 35 Old 10-01-2012, 10:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doodoobutter View Post

Does the bigger tuba HT make a huge difference over the smaller one? Our living room is roughly 16ft x 20ft x 10ft.

I'm sure Bill can chime in further here but as far as I know, the wider the THT (up to 36") smooths out the overall response. I built a 24" version and I couldn't be happier! If you put the mouth about 18" away from a wall, it will fill most rooms.

Good luck!


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post #5 of 35 Old 10-01-2012, 10:44 AM
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I'll toss a vote in for the F-20, as the Dayton HF is a direct drop in replacement for the MFW... Will fit in your door and sounds absolutely incredible...

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post #6 of 35 Old 10-01-2012, 10:45 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks for the responses. So according to bill's response, I'll be able to make one 33" wide. Do the plans help you calculate your cuts for custom widths? One last question, what is the difference between the tht and the f-20? After some more searching, it looks like the dayton HF 15" does indeed work in that horn also.
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post #7 of 35 Old 10-01-2012, 11:33 AM
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As Bill stated, you can make one in any width you want. The plans are clear on how to adjust the width of your build.


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post #8 of 35 Old 10-01-2012, 11:43 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks dbldare
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post #9 of 35 Old 10-01-2012, 02:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doodoobutter View Post

So according to bill's response, I'll be able to make one 33" wide. ... One last question, what is the difference between the tht and the f-20?
Bill's plans can be used to build a THT of different widths, but I don't think the F-20 can. As far as I know the F-20 has only been built and tested at the specified size (width); you would be breaking new ground if you wanted to try a different width. Also, I don't know how wide your doors are, but I'd build it 24" wide if you are going to be moving this to another house. Some interior doors are only 30" and you will need a few inches on ether side to clear the door frame. If you are building a horn you will be gluing the cabinet together - you won't be able to 'take it apart' when you move.

A word of caution if you are not to familiar with horns: while the width of Bill's THT can be changed, the other 2 dimensions (36"x36") cannot. Because of the way the horn is folded internally, you must build the cabinet the specified size. Bill created a new fold (the low profile THT) for people that don't want a square cabinet, it is 72"x18".

I would suggest you build a full size cardboard mockup of the final dimensions to make sure you know what you are getting into. While everyone who posts here about their build loves the output of the horns, most are surprised when they see just how big these horns really are.

Chris

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post #10 of 35 Old 10-01-2012, 04:26 PM
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I have an F-20 with that driver and amp. It is fantastic and I can't imagine anyone being disappointed. Also Lilmike's instructions are phenomenal. Was my first every sub build and it was very very smooth.
I really would be impressed with anything better to do with a 15" and 300watt amp for a sub.

As for the width, I know its a long thread but somewhere in it Lilmike talks about exactly what changing the width would do.

Also if you Google around, there are some specific comparisons about the F-20 vs THT.

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post #11 of 35 Old 10-01-2012, 07:11 PM
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f20 has a lower tuning. tht has a smidgen higher max spl at some frequencies. having looked at the models in hornresp, i'd suggest f20.

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post #12 of 35 Old 10-01-2012, 09:23 PM - Thread Starter
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I was starting to lean towards the f-20 also, mostly because of the shape of it. Our couch is already a couple feet away from the wall because it reclines, If it sounds good behind the couch with the port facing upwards that would be cool. If not we have an open corner to face it into. Should be fun pushing it around the living room and listening. I think we'll start cutting this weekend, thanks for all of the answers biggrin.gif
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post #13 of 35 Old 10-02-2012, 08:07 AM
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Quote:
Should be fun pushing it around the living room

Let me know if you feel the same way after you do this for a while. wink.gif

Orienting the sub with the mouth facing up is not the BEST way to do it as the driver will also be on a slight angle close to vertical and cone sag on the driver might end up being an issue. You should be good for quite a while though.

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post #14 of 35 Old 10-02-2012, 12:10 PM - Thread Starter
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That occurred to me after I posted it, so we might avoid that. As for pushing it around the room, my gf and I have a pretty good method down that we used for the last project. Blanket under the enclosure, one person pulls the blanket while the other holds onto the enclosure. It works well with hard wood floors smile.gif

If we can get a veneer or stain that matches our bookshelves, I don't think it'll be too much of an eye sore. If it looks out of place, it will be worth it. We also have a shelf built into the wall, I could take the shelves out and put it in there and see how it sounds too. Or put legs on the side of it and use it like a coffee table. We'll figure it out, the living room is pretty big.
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post #15 of 35 Old 10-02-2012, 12:33 PM
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I tried the coffee table thing for a second with one of mine. It was fun smile.gif

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post #16 of 35 Old 10-02-2012, 12:38 PM - Thread Starter
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Nice, maybe we'll see if our beers can stay still :P

I've been looking through the f-20 thread (ton of pages...), and I don't see where people are putting a plate amp. Any suggestions on where to mount my bash300? I was thinking right on the access door, or is there already a tried and true way?
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post #17 of 35 Old 10-02-2012, 01:00 PM
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access door I think works ok, I used external power with an ep4000

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post #18 of 35 Old 10-02-2012, 05:06 PM
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I built my F20 with the same driver but used an Oaudio Bash 500 amp and love it. The higher power doesn't gain me anything over the 300 I just wanted the bigger amp in case I wanted to experiment with different designs down the road for more flexibility. Honestly I don't see any need to do that now. The F20 is amazing. I built a small box to mount the amp in so I could have more options in placing it and also I figured the open back would keep it cool. It's nothing fancy, just a 4 sided box that sits on top of one of my mains for now. I painted it the same color as the horn.

You'll be pleasantly surprised at the output when you're done.
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post #19 of 35 Old 10-03-2012, 10:19 AM - Thread Starter
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+1

I think I'll make a separate box with an open back, thanks for the suggestion. The enclosure that the driver is in is pretty small, I can see heat building up in there rather quickly.
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post #20 of 35 Old 10-03-2012, 03:10 PM
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The F-20 is infinitely easier to build than any of the BFM subs also.

120@20@14'
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post #21 of 35 Old 10-07-2012, 12:23 PM - Thread Starter
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For the f-20, what size circle do I cut out for the dayton hf? Is it the same size as the driver that was originally picked for this project?
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post #22 of 35 Old 10-08-2012, 08:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doodoobutter View Post

For the f-20, what size circle do I cut out for the dayton hf? Is it the same size as the driver that was originally picked for this project?

14" diameter at the location specified in the plans should work fine.

Edited for clarification based on the results posted.
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post #23 of 35 Old 10-09-2012, 06:05 AM - Thread Starter
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Woops, I already cut it. I just checked and the dayton hf just makes it with about 1/4" to spare. I'll note that if we build more.

Also, since you're watching this thread lilmike, I have a question about the terminology used on step 5 before I start today. "Finally, chase the threads with a tap when the PL is dry." What exactly am I doing here? All I know is that I"m gonna regret it :P
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post #24 of 35 Old 10-09-2012, 10:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doodoobutter View Post

Woops, I already cut it. I just checked and the dayton hf just makes it with about 1/4" to spare. I'll note that if we build more.
Also, since you're watching this thread lilmike, I have a question about the terminology used on step 5 before I start today. "Finally, chase the threads with a tap when the PL is dry." What exactly am I doing here? All I know is that I"m gonna regret it :P

Well, glad that you did not need that 1/4" I'll edit my reply above to eliminate any future confusion.

Chasing threads is simply a term for cleaning the threads in the hurricane nuts with a thread-cutting tap. This process makes sure that the threads are clean and that the screws will thread into the hurricane nuts properly. We're not cutting the threads, but rather removing any defects or obstructions in them.

For a typical 10-32 hurricane nut, I use a 10-32 (#10 screw, 32 threads per inch) tap and I screw it all the way through each hurricane nut. If I have issues with any of the nuts, this provides me a chance to get it fixed before the cabinet is assembled.
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post #25 of 35 Old 10-09-2012, 11:02 AM - Thread Starter
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Ok I see now. I'm going to the store now. I might have to use 10-24 t- nuts and socket head screw caps in place. I can't find hurricane nuts anywhere, and I can't find 10-32 socket head screw caps anywhere either. I did find 10-32 t-nuts, but I'm gonna have to exchange them since I can't find any 10-32 socket head screw caps to go with them.
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post #26 of 35 Old 10-09-2012, 12:00 PM
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Hmm, I have been able to find them at "real" hardware stores without any issues.

Lately, I have been ordering them from McMaster-Carr online.
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post #27 of 35 Old 10-09-2012, 01:36 PM - Thread Starter
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Yea I tried my local real store first, I like to support family owned businesses when possible. I ended up finding 10-32 socket head screws at home depot, but it looks like I'm gonna be going with t-nuts instead of hurricane nuts. I also decided were gonna do t-nuts on the inspection hole since it's possible that it may be opened a couple of times in the future. I'm afraid the holes will strip if I just use screws like in the plans. Thanks for all the input, I'll add to all of the f-20 pics when I'm done.
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post #28 of 35 Old 10-09-2012, 08:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cecaa850 View Post

The F-20 is infinitely easier to build than any of the BFM subs also.

I've never built an F-20, but I have built two THT LPs, I didn't find them particularly hard to build. And based on F-20 build threads I've seem, I don't see a lot of difference in terms of complexity.

Now, building a DR is another story, but you said BFM subs.
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post #29 of 35 Old 10-10-2012, 06:08 AM - Thread Starter
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So far the f20 seems to be easier than the ported box me and my gf built. It was mostly dealing with the ports. We got partsexpress flares and pvc pipe from the hardware store. They didn't match, so I tried to dremel out the inside of the pipe to get the flares in. One wouldn't hold with the pipe glue because it was too jagged, and the story goes on...

I don't know how everyone else makes their ports in a regular build, but the f20 is nice and idiot proof. I'm guessing BFM builds are also. I might make his car version someday.
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post #30 of 35 Old 10-12-2012, 12:39 PM - Thread Starter
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I had trouble with badly bowed plywood like pretty much everyone else. I fixed some of the smaller ones before installing them, but the big pieces are hard to tell by eye, that is until you install it and realize how bad it is. I just have regular clamps, so I had to come up with another solution for the ones that are bowed in towards the inside of the enclosure. Here's my trick, hope it helps. Just don't forget to put it back in your trunk in case of emergency XD

DSC01260.jpg
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