Here we go. I promised a few out there that I would create this thread and build process. I tried to log as much as I could, but in the heat of the build sometimes fairly simple steps can be overlooked. So, if there's anything you'd like me to take a pic of or describe I will do my best.Simulate the enclosure and driver in WinISD:
I needed to construct an enclosure that fit the space. I did not need this speaker to have much low-end extension as I would be crossing them to subs. So, the F3 point was an important goal for me. Hitting at nearly 80hz was where I needed to be crossing them to dual mfw-15's. Knowing all this let me get the box as small as possible for a 12" with front slot port.Front baffle:
Ordered a 26" SEOS blank baffle from Erich at DIY Sound Group and with this I knew I had space width wise to create the internals for the slot port while maintaining the exact volume and enclosure depth that was vital to placement in my situation. After marking the baffle for both woofer and port began cutting the hole for the AE TD12M. I went with the Jasper200 jig which works great.Cutting the port:
This was an experiment really. I thought, well, I'll be making three of these...make a jig! The jig was slightly smaller than the internal port mouth, so when the port was mounted to the inside of the enclosure and attached to the baffle, I routed the opening on the baffle.Making the double baffle:
Here's the single .75" blank baffle with woofer cutout and port. I ordered the 26" baffle knowing I would cut off ~2" from the bottom.
Using the completed baffle as a router template, glue, screw, and clamp the double baffle together.
Completed double baffle. The woofer and waveguide are on the same plane installed.Cutting the rest of the box:
Here are the test box pieces I already cut and loosely preassembled to create a duplicate enclosure if this one tests out ok.Assembling and gluing up the enclosure:
Fun times. Racing around like a madman aligning and squaring the pieces and clamping. You know the drill. lol.Back inside to install the back:
The ol' JL Audio Pro Wedge to the rescue! Heavy sucker.Completed box:
And time for a nice Boulevard Co. Sixth Glass. Build the crossover:
This was the easy part...when you have Mr. Waslo
on the job! Thank you, sir. Without your contributions to this effort, I'd not be at the stage I'm at now. The schematic can be found on DIY Sound Group forums here:SEOS12 and AE TD12M design
This shall also not go without mentioning pgwalsh
for offering his driver for Bill to measure. Thank you!Crossover Parts List:
C1:DAYTON AUDIO DMPC-18 18UF 250V POLYPROPYLENE CAPACITOR
C2:DAYTON AUDIO DMPC-2.2 2.2UF 250V POLYPROPYLENE CAPACITOR
C3:DAYTON AUDIO DMPC-12 12UF 250V POLYPROPYLENE CAPACITOR
L1:JANTZEN 0.90MH 20 AWG AIR CORE INDUCTOR
L2:JANTZEN 0.10MH 20 AWG AIR CORE INDUCTOR
L3:Meniscus 3.50mH .19 ohm dcr 15GA STEEL LAMINATE
R1:Xicon 3.3 OHM 5W RESISTOR WIRE WOUND 5% TOLERANCE
R2:Meniscus 12 Ohm 10W RESISTOR WIRE WOUND 10% TOLERANCE
R3:Meniscus 10 Ohm 10W RESISTOR WIRE WOUND 10% TOLERANCE
R4:Xicon 2.7 OHM 5W RESISTOR WIRE WOUND 5% TOLERANCE
R5:Xicon 3.3 OHM 5W RESISTOR WIRE WOUND 5% TOLERANCE
Meniscus Audio - Lynk, Silver/Teflon, 14ga. Black Wire
Meniscus Audio - Lynk, Silver/Teflon, 14ga. Red Wire
2 POLE 25A PANEL MOUNT BARRIER TERMINAL STRCompleted crossovers
Here they are assembled, tested and soldered.Install crossover
I chose to install the crossover within the compression driver/waveguide chamber for easy access. If/when I need to do any maintenance or component upgrades, it will be very convenient having it here without having to pull the 12" driver each time. I cut a bit of extra speaker cable to set the waveguide on top of the enclosure and to slide the xo outward to unhook it.Time for some music!:
I'm only playing one right now, the other three will be a work in progress. Crossing over to dual mfw-15's @80hz. It sounds fantastic!Taking measurements with the OmniMic V2 @ 1m:System Measurement:
OmniMic V2 system measurement @ 1M (SEOS-12/TD12M/DNA-360), Track 12, Right Channel - Short Sine Sweep, No Subs.Finishing:
Rolled on four coats of Zinsser B-I-N. Sanded after coat 2 with 220.Fast forward!
Sprayed on 2 coats of Rust-Oleum bed liner after several coats of flat black.
No wide angle lens on my DSLR only a 50mm prime, so sneaking in a pic of my new Panasonic P50ST60 as a result.
It replaced a 200 pound Sony XBR960.
Parting wide shot (cell phone) with extinct XBR960 the plasma replaced.