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post #91 of 238 Old 01-30-2013, 05:46 PM
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Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 5 View Post

The screen is 9' wide, curved EN4K, viewed from 9'. The projector is a JVC RS45 with an anamorphic lens, Lumagen and a Darbee. The sound panels behind the seats look white in the black room, but they are actually dark gray. Here are some of the same panels in another room with light gray walls.
http://i243.photobucket.com/albums/ff112/mjg100photo/Downstairs%20room/P1010452.jpg

very nice looking. Are you close enough to the lake to jump in. biggrin.gif

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post #92 of 238 Old 01-30-2013, 06:34 PM
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Originally Posted by AV Science Sales 5 View Post

Yes, I painted them with black high temperature spray paint. High temp is probably overkill, but it cost very little more than regular paint, so I used it.

Mike,
Is it hard to take the phase plugs off? I would hate to damage the speakers taking them off.

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post #93 of 238 Old 01-30-2013, 06:36 PM - Thread Starter
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Mike,
Is it hard to take the phase plugs off? I would hate to damage the speakers taking them off.

Jon B

Very simple to take them off. You just unscrew them. smile.gif

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post #94 of 238 Old 01-30-2013, 06:37 PM
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That sounds too easy. Thank you
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post #95 of 238 Old 01-30-2013, 09:33 PM
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That sounds too easy. Thank you

Just make sure when you screw them back in, that you get them all the way in, sometimes the threads will move it one way or the other and you will get some rub if they don't seat all the way smile.gif

(European models do not accept banana plugs.)

 

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post #96 of 238 Old 01-31-2013, 08:00 AM
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Just make sure when you screw them back in, that you get them all the way in, sometimes the threads will move it one way or the other and you will get some rub if they don't seat all the way smile.gif

Good to know. Thank you
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post #97 of 238 Old 01-31-2013, 10:13 AM - Thread Starter
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Just make sure when you screw them back in, that you get them all the way in, sometimes the threads will move it one way or the other and you will get some rub if they don't seat all the way smile.gif

Yep, once they hit the flat plate snugly, you should be good to go. The speakers look good with the black phase plugs, but I do like the contrast of the Aluminum plugs and if I was leaving them exposed, I would not have painted the phase plugs.

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post #98 of 238 Old 02-01-2013, 11:22 AM - Thread Starter
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Here is an over exposed picture of the front stage:

Hard to get good pictures in a black room, even with the lights on.

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post #99 of 238 Old 02-15-2013, 10:06 AM - Thread Starter
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Measured my subs:


I see that I am going to have to work on how I present the graph and I see that I do not need to be adding boost down low. smile.gif

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post #100 of 238 Old 02-15-2013, 02:52 PM
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that response looks great.

no boost of any kind under 30hz huh?

Listen. It's All Good.
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post #101 of 238 Old 02-16-2013, 04:59 PM - Thread Starter
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Here are the subs with no Audyssey, no boost or EQ.

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post #102 of 238 Old 02-16-2013, 05:02 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post

that response looks great.

no boost of any kind under 30hz huh?

That measurement was with Audyssey and some boost down low. I was just saying, after seeing the graph, I did not need to be adding any boost down low. I have posted a graph above with Audyssey off, no boost and no RQ.

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post #103 of 238 Old 02-16-2013, 05:03 PM
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Wow, the EQ really did a lot to the sub 10hz stuff! can you tell a difference?

(European models do not accept banana plugs.)

 

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post #104 of 238 Old 02-16-2013, 05:10 PM - Thread Starter
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Right, left and center overlaid. Subs were measured with each speaker. 1/6 smoothing, no Audyssey and no EQ.

Green, center speaker and subs.
Gold, left speaker and subs.
Purple, right speaker and subs.


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post #105 of 238 Old 02-16-2013, 05:23 PM - Thread Starter
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Waterfall, all subs and right speaker, no Audyssey, no EQ.


Impulse response, subs and right speaker, no Audyssey and no EQ.

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post #106 of 238 Old 02-16-2013, 05:36 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post

Wow, the EQ really did a lot to the sub 10hz stuff! can you tell a difference?

Some, but not with most movies. It was kind of fun playing the Amazing THX mushroom trailer at reference with that setup. I think I remember there is strong 7hz and 12hz in that trailer. Was hitting 120db at the seats.

Here is what the bottom end looked like with XT32, and 5db of boost on low end. Subs only.

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post #107 of 238 Old 02-17-2013, 02:32 PM
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Mike,

Is you slot port on the bottom of the box?

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post #108 of 238 Old 02-17-2013, 04:18 PM
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Mike, I would like to see that massive house curve and how it measures with your mains mixed in...

(European models do not accept banana plugs.)

 

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post #109 of 238 Old 02-17-2013, 08:42 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pgwalsh View Post

Mike,

Is you slot port on the bottom of the box?

Yes, but speakers are not sitting on the floor. They sit on little shelves behind the screen. The shelves are slightly smaller than the footprint of the speakers.

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post #110 of 238 Old 02-17-2013, 08:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beastaudio View Post

Mike, I would like to see that massive house curve and how it measures with your mains mixed in...

x2. That is a really aggressive curve; much more than you probably need. Be interesting to see how the mains factor in to that.

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post #111 of 238 Old 02-17-2013, 08:46 PM
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Quote:
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Yes, but speakers are not sitting on the floor. They sit on little shelves behind the screen. The shelves are slightly smaller than the footprint of the speakers.

I was asking because I plan to clone your SEOS/TD12M's next weekend. In the picture it looks like there's lip and a 1/4 inch from the bottom of the slot opening and the bottom of the inside of the port?

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post #112 of 238 Old 02-18-2013, 05:08 AM
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What did the overall size and weight come in at when finished? I am going to do a SEAOS 12 / TD12X build and just curious of what I can get by with.
Thanks
Chris
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post #113 of 238 Old 02-18-2013, 06:28 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pgwalsh View Post

I was asking because I plan to clone your SEOS/TD12M's next weekend. In the picture it looks like there's lip and a 1/4 inch from the bottom of the slot opening and the bottom of the inside of the port?

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What did the overall size and weight come in at when finished? I am going to do a SEAOS 12 / TD12X build and just curious of what I can get by with.
Thanks
Chris

The slot port starts at the inside bottom piece of MDF, so it starts 3/4" up from external bottom of the speaker. I did this to maximize the volume of the enclosure, since my boxes are small. I cut part of the bottom leg of the bracing off, so that the leg did not show, when looking at the slot port opening. The boxes are 14.5" wide x 26" high x 10.75" deep. With the boxes this shallow, I could get a lot of toe-in on my speakers behind my screen. If I had gone with a larger box, I would not have been able to toe the speakers in as much. No idea on exact weight, but they are very heavy for their size. With drivers, I would guess around 80 lbs.

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post #114 of 238 Old 02-18-2013, 07:35 AM
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Thanks Mike...

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post #115 of 238 Old 02-23-2013, 06:28 PM - Thread Starter
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Took some measurements. Here is left speaker and subs with Audyssey and 5db of boost added down low. 1/6th smoothing.


Here are the subs alone with Audyssey and dynamic EQ. No smoothing.

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post #116 of 238 Old 02-28-2013, 03:19 PM
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Got my first one up and running. Very clean, raw and revealing. Hard to give a good listen with just one channel. Vocals are pretty incredible.

Mike.. .Thanks for all your help.

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post #118 of 238 Old 03-01-2013, 10:28 AM
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k... here's some pics.

Though you'll have to wait for the completed box.





Adding the slot piece. I cut this myself. Had some extra MDF around.


Inner baffle


Inside where I cut the brace.



I had Erich cut my outer baffle, but I wouldn't recommend this. I think ideally you'd want slot dado cuts, so gluing in the slot port is easy. You'll have to cut the brace and I used a piece of the brace as a filler for the bottom. Once you have the inner baffle set, you can then router out the slot port, then glue the outer baffle and router again. What I ran into, probably because I clamped too hard, was a 1/16th to 2/16th extension on the outer baffle on the sides of the box. Top to bottom was fine, but there's very little room for error.

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post #119 of 238 Old 03-01-2013, 10:33 AM
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The weight of the speaker is 61.2 lbs with drivers and crossover installed.

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post #120 of 238 Old 03-03-2013, 11:02 AM
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MIke,

Did you use a half-inch roundover bit? I was planning on veneering, but that's going to be touch if I do a roundover. I've read the edges should be rounded over for the waveguide. What do you think?

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