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post #721 of 747 Old 03-03-2014, 08:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red Devil 24 View Post

Where can I find a good recording of this, all I'm finding is cheap mp3s.
http://www.hdtracks.com/carl-orff-carmina-burana
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post #722 of 747 Old 03-04-2014, 02:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Anthony_Gomez View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by Red Devil 24 View Post

Where can I find a good recording of this, all I'm finding is cheap mp3s.
http://www.hdtracks.com/carl-orff-carmina-burana
Thanks but I was referring to the UC Davis performance.

BTW us Canadian can't buy on HD tracks frown.gif

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post #723 of 747 Old 03-05-2014, 08:57 AM
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Just finished reading your thread and DAAAMN! biggrin.gif Awesome doesn't begin to describe it... smile.gif

Somehow, I must have skimmed thru your switch over to the SEOS, can you reference a date for me, so I can find it? thanks
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post #724 of 747 Old 03-05-2014, 12:41 PM - Thread Starter
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I've just added links to it in my sig so that people can find them without searching.
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post #725 of 747 Old 03-27-2014, 08:15 AM
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You should have this thread moved to the DIY builder forum ?

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post #726 of 747 Old 04-01-2014, 01:25 PM - Thread Starter
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post #727 of 747 Old 04-17-2014, 01:33 PM - Thread Starter
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I installed some LED lighting for the first time. Here are the pro's and con's:

1) My subs kept blowing up the halogens (because they are a filament). Pro for the LED having no weak parts.
2) The Halogens are 300watts per row vs 30watts. Pro for the LED.
3) The Halogens run crazy hot, which doesn't help in the summer time. Pro for the LED.
4) I can run double the number of LED's and get 1.7x more light output and still be 1/5th the power bill.. Pro for the LED.
5) The light isn't quite as bright nor as wide angle nor as consistent in color as the beam expands (the middle is more white and at the sides it turns yellow). Con for the LED.

Overall I think I could live with this, more light, less power bill.
The only problem is you have to use more of them... [unless you get some uber-ones for like 2-3x the price].

I got the 3000K's to match the Halogens in color. Check it out:

1st row is Halogen, 2nd row is LED
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post #728 of 747 Old 04-19-2014, 01:58 PM - Thread Starter
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I bought another 48sqft of this for my front wall.

Mostly for under the screen, so that I can just pull the screen up when I want more absorption.

I wanted it because I noticed a small amount of echo between the bare front wall and back wall.
Not sure if this is acoustically a "good idea" but I guess I will find out the hard way when it gets here.

I have yet to reach a point where too much absorption became a bad thing.
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post #729 of 747 Old 04-19-2014, 02:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BassThatHz View Post

I bought another 48sqft of this for my front wall.

Mostly for under the screen, so that I can just pull the screen up when I want more absorption.

I wanted it because I noticed a small amount of echo between the bare front wall and back wall.
Not sure if this is acoustically a "good idea" but I guess I will find out the hard way when it gets here.

I have yet to reach a point where too much absorption became a bad thing.

Where did you buy from?
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post #730 of 747 Old 04-19-2014, 05:53 PM - Thread Starter
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I got it from FoamByMail.

Same place I bought all my other ones from.
I prefer the look of these, over any panels I could DIY myself.
They are only 95 to 75% as good as Auralex per sqft so keep that in mind, but also 2 to 3 times cheaper, so it still holds good value.

I like putting them in an H pattern, where the H is the hard wall surface; I found this gives a good combination of reflection vs absorption; goldilocks range: not too dry, not too wet.
Something like 50% coverage seems to do it (for me at least.)

My room is 3000cubes and I have 24 of the 24x24x4's and 16 of the 12x12x24's, and then my DIY-columns which are 6 408x24x4, and now 48 of the 12x12x1's behind the screen just for damping the last remaining flutter-echo.
In fact there is enough echo between the front and back walls that I couldn't even tell you how well the panels on the other walls are working, as it gets completely masked; so until I remove the flutter, only then could I give a real opinion.


A couple of interesting videos showing how much a room contributes to the sound:



The clapping at the 60 second mark is highly interesting:

even though the room is clearly already treated 100% with 3ft wedges, until the doors themselves are shut, the room continues to have a good amount of slap-echo. I was surprised by that actually.


Here is a full hour-long unedited experience in an Anechoic Chamber (and in the dark for added sensory effect no less) eek.gif

The previous (unofficial) world record was just 45 minutes.
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post #731 of 747 Old 05-31-2014, 03:15 PM - Thread Starter
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I bought this today, I'm excited, should be here in a week or so.

~$350 for an external processor that converts 3D signals into 2D frames for rendering on 2D TV's and projectors.
Comes with 2 RF active shutter glasses that recharge via USB.

It supports all 3D frame types at up to 1080P, and I believe it is fully HDMI 1.4B compliant, and I believe it will also downscale 120hz 3D 1080P discs to dual 30hz per eye for 60hz-only displays (mine are 60hz so that's good).
and also upscale 24/25hz 3D to dual 30hz as well; and it can do 120hz if your display supports it.
(I don't know if there are any 120hz 3D 1080P bluray discs out YET???)

http://www.3dnow.com/

My Oppo also upscales 2D signals to 3D so I'm curious to see what that looks like as well.
For the most part though, I'll be using 3D Bluray's.

It was either this, or spend big money on a new projector, while gaining zero (or very few) features by doing so.

I've never seen 3D on a screen larger than 40inches before; ignoring city-theaters of course. Should be interdasting....

correction: it does these formats...
Frame Packing: 1080p24, 1080p25, 1080p30, 720p60, 720p50, 720p30
Side-by-Side: 1080i60, 1080i50, 1080p24, 1080p30, 720p60, 720p50, 720p30
Top-Bottom: 1080p24, 1080p25, 1080p30, 720p60, 720p50, 720p30

so 1.4a, not b
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post #732 of 747 Old 05-31-2014, 11:49 PM - Thread Starter
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I don't like the purple

...but $hi! it was only 99 cents!!! biggrin.gif

This will have to do until I can get proper theater seating.

At least it doesn't hurt my back like the futon does and is real leather.
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post #733 of 747 Old 06-01-2014, 12:17 AM
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For 99 cents I would take that in a heartbeat! Gratz on the better seating, I know my back thanked me once I got rid of my 30 year old, 3 owner couch.

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post #734 of 747 Old 06-01-2014, 12:38 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BassThatHz View Post

correction: it does these formats...
Frame Packing: 1080p24, 1080p25, 1080p30, 720p60, 720p50, 720p30
Side-by-Side: 1080i60, 1080i50, 1080p24, 1080p30, 720p60, 720p50, 720p30
Top-Bottom: 1080p24, 1080p25, 1080p30, 720p60, 720p50, 720p30
so 1.4a, not b

I tested my projector and it can do 120hz @ 1080i from my HTPC, so hopefully the 3DNow can output at that.
It's 120hz mode must just be oversampling of either 1080i@60/50 or 1080P@30/25/24.
They talk about the 120hz mode in their instructional videos, but they don't go into much detail. It is obvious that this CEO isn't a techie, he just keeps talking gibberish about "the LED's this, the LED's that" and contradicting the user manual. LOL!
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post #735 of 747 Old 06-01-2014, 07:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BassThatHz View Post

I don't like the purple
...but $hi! it was only 99 cents!!! biggrin.gif

This will have to do until I can get proper theater seating.

At least it doesn't hurt my back like the futon does and is real leather.


Nice score.

Also, a nice by-product is the welcome bass trapping, bass damping characteristics ... certainly welcome in your room (sure, the center-line of the room isn't necessarily the best place for bass trapping, but wth).

I've got two rows of those for my seating, different color but somewhat similar.

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Active 16.8kw, 7.3 system
(3)Seaton Cat12C up front, (4)QSC K8 sides/rears
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post #736 of 747 Old 06-04-2014, 05:31 PM - Thread Starter
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The lady changed her mind and decided to sue me if I didn't give the chair back.
I called the cops and they came and talked to both of us, they said legally the chair is mine to keep because it was "sold".
I gave the chair back just to be a good sport about it. I didn't even like the color, what a hassle though, I drove 15 miles to go pick it up and the stress on my back lifting it around. Some people...

Anyhow, the 3D Processor will be here Tuesday according to the tracking number.
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post #737 of 747 Old 06-04-2014, 06:01 PM
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The lady changed her mind and decided to sue me if I didn't give the chair back.
I called the cops and they came and talked to both of us, they said legally the chair is mine to keep because it was "sold".
I gave the chair back just to be a good sport about it. I didn't even like the color, what a hassle though, I drove 15 miles to go pick it up and the stress on my back lifting it around. Some people...

Lol. Did this really happen?

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post #738 of 747 Old 06-04-2014, 06:27 PM
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Forgot about the stash that was left lol 😧
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post #739 of 747 Old 06-05-2014, 02:26 AM - Thread Starter
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First thing I did was check for goodies hidden inside it.


I found nothing.
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post #740 of 747 Old 06-05-2014, 08:37 AM
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Same tech that is used in the Optoma proejectors. Should be fine with most BD's, let us know how you get on with it. 

 

Speaking of BD's, I don't think you've ever mentioned what projector it is that you use?

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post #741 of 747 Old 06-10-2014, 11:17 AM - Thread Starter
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Apparently I bought a flying saucer today.
It has 10 ports, it's own power source, and I think they call this a "USB" (Unidentified Saucer Board?) biggrin.gif


nah... ran out of USB ports on my HTPC. I have over 9 USB devices now in the theater so I needed some more.
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post #742 of 747 Old 06-10-2014, 12:52 PM
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What do you use all those USB ports for ?

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post #743 of 747 Old 06-10-2014, 01:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mfusick View Post

What do you use all those USB ports for ?

Below the pic:
Quote:
Originally Posted by BassThatHz View Post

nah... ran out of USB ports on my HTPC. I have over 9 USB devices now in the theater so I needed some more.
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post #744 of 747 Old 06-10-2014, 01:22 PM
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Who needs 9 USB devices at once? That is what I am asking...

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post #745 of 747 Old 06-10-2014, 01:35 PM - Thread Starter
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The 3D processor just arrived.




Now let's see if it works.
(Probably have to charge the glasses first?)

Three boxes.
two glasses, shammy, USB charging cables each.

USB FW cable.

Powersupply and RF emitter/cable.
and the processor (of course).

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mfusick View Post

Who needs 9 USB devices at once?
Me.

1) Mouse
2) Keyboard
3) Video camera
4) USB controlled amplifier
5) USB controlled amplifier
6) USB controlled relay's
7) USB DAC
8) USB TermLab SPL Meter
9) USB UPS
10) USB Power analyzer
11) USB 3D glasses charger
12) USB 3D glasses charger

13+ For future expansion...

Technically I could use all of those at once, I've been known to do crazy things like that... biggrin.gif
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post #746 of 747 Old 06-10-2014, 02:04 PM
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Put a hub on your AV rack and just run a single USB to the PC.

What HTPC you running ? You should do the USB hack to provide decent charge on a cell phone or glasses output. Some MFG come with a driver or program with mobo to do it for you. Charge your USB devices twice as fast biggrin.gif

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post #747 of 747 Old 06-10-2014, 08:06 PM - Thread Starter
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Well good news and bad news.

The good news is the 3D works on both my projector and LCD monitor, and the Oppo 2D to 3D also works.

The bad news is that the 3D Now processor only outputs 720P, and the 120hz option doesn't seem to output 3D (at least in my system, just 2D).
The other bad news is that the 3D Now processor only outputs 3D with a 1080P input signal, I haven't tried a DVD yet but I would hope the Oppo upsamples it to 1080P 3D (haven't tried yet).

The Oppo 2D to 3D process is actually quite good and is within 25% of a real 3D experience; it gave me a slight headache compared to a true Bluray 3D source.

With the 3DNow in manual mode I was able to reduce the flicker to what you would expect a 24hz per eye upsampled to 30hz per eye system would look like.

To be honest I'm not sure if I'd be able to tell the difference between 720P 3D and 1080P 3D.
The stereophonic image in combination with the shuttering pretty much masks a LOT of detail and color and brightness and contrast, can't tell the difference, not at 24hz Bluray standard at least; maybe a REAL 60hz per eye when Bluray 2.0 / UHD comes out or with a glassless 3D system perhaps.

For $300 it was worth it. A true 1080P 3D would of course be more-optimal, but that's 3 to 10 times the cost (conditions depending).

It's been a years since I watched a city-theater 3D movie (Hobbit 1) so it's a bit unclear the advantage or disadvantage it had. The bigger screen seems to project the 3D further into the room compared to even a 120inch screen.
Other than depth I can't tell/remember much difference.
3D Now is that good or my city-theater is that bad, not sure which biggrin.gif (At least people aren't talking on their cellphone at home and I have a pause button too. biggrin.gif)
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