15" Dayton HO enclosure (first DIY build) - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 17 Old 11-03-2012, 11:06 AM - Thread Starter
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Hi guys! I'm new to AVS and I have been bitten by the DIY bug. I have a great HT system now but here lately it seems that the subwoofer isnt doing enough for me anymore. I have a Denon 1912 with all Polk speakers in a 7.1 set up using the front height speakers and a Yamaha SW315 for a sub. I recently recalibrated the whole system when I installed the height channels and I am needing more volume for the lows. I'm no stranger to audio(by no means a pro) or wood working(not a pro here either) but I would love to do a project of my own instead of buy something prebuilt. I plan on using a Crown XLS 1000 or 1500 to power the subs. I want to use a pair of either Dayton 12" titanic MKIII or RSS315HO DVC . I have seen a lot of DYI stuff here but I want to do something totally different. I was doing some reading on speaker box design and came across an article about cylindricle or "egg" shaped boxes being the "perfect" enclosure. Then I read an article about ported boxes can have an external port and not have any negative effects to output. Well since I read that article and being as I work in the oilfield, I seen a piece of equipment out hereand the idea for the box design got stuck in my head. Keep in mind I want some totally different than the normal "cookie cutter" square box. I tend to make "one off" stuff and now I want to try my hand at DIY HT. My idea is to build a downfiring cylindricle box that either has the port located internal or exiting the top externally and going down the back side of the enclosure toward the floor. I attached a drawing I did in MS paint (DO NOT laugh!!! it's all I could use since the computers at work won't let me install sketchup LOL). I used both subs in winISD and the best I could come up with was around 2.5-3 cf and tuned to 22-24hz. I may being doing something wrong in winISD so thats why I came here for input. I have 3 different ideas listed. I'm not just going to have a ugly piece of plastic pipe exiting my enclosure, I do have plans to incorporate it back into the design when I'm finished. I just mainly wanted some guidance from this knowledgeable bunch. Box.png 36k .png file
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post #2 of 17 Old 11-05-2012, 08:03 PM
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yeah, you can do it that way no problem. several folks have done variations on them.

http://www.subwoofer-builder.com/sidewinder.htm

ah, i can't find the link to the one that i wanted to post. it was a small cube with a vertical smoke stack port that went right up to the ceiling and he thought they kicked arse.

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post #3 of 17 Old 11-06-2012, 10:09 AM - Thread Starter
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I apologize for the crappy concept "drawing", I probably could have done better with a crayon LOL. I'm working on a final design in sketchup now to submit for anyones input. I'm going to bulid a pair of these and they will be between each L/R speaker and the wall. I'm pretty much set on the downfiring design(due to small children) but not sure which way to direct the port. Each sub will be in a corner roughly 4-6" from a wall on 2 sides. Should the port fire toward the wall that the TV is on, the wall to the left & right of the TV or should the port fire toward the floor?

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post #4 of 17 Old 11-07-2012, 06:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oilfieldtrash21 View Post

I apologize for the crappy concept "drawing", I probably could have done better with a crayon LOL. I'm working on a final design in sketchup now to submit for anyones input. I'm going to bulid a pair of these and they will be between each L/R speaker and the wall. I'm pretty much set on the downfiring design(due to small children) but not sure which way to direct the port. Each sub will be in a corner roughly 4-6" from a wall on 2 sides. Should the port fire toward the wall that the TV is on, the wall to the left & right of the TV or should the port fire toward the floor?

It doesn't matter which way the port points. I don't think I would have the port opening near the ceiling and the speaker firing at the floor though. They probably should be co-located within a couple of feet since they are both sources of sound. With low enough tuning it may not make a difference though.

I've done external ports w/ an external, magnet-out, sub to make a ported box out of a sealed box without using up internal volume. It works just fine and has a nice visual WTF factor.
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post #5 of 17 Old 12-04-2012, 10:56 PM - Thread Starter
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Ok I scrapped the above idea due to the fact I can't find anyone local to get a true sonotube from and the fact the Mrs said she didnt like my idea and it wasnt going in our living room. I puchased a Dayton RSS390-HO-4 15" and a Crown XLS 1000 amp. I'm no expert with WinISD and the best I could come up with that didnt have excessive port noise or woofer excursion and still have the output I'm looking for was 8 cubic ft tuned to 18hz with dual 3" ports 24" long. I still plan on doing the downfiring design with external porting. I have some ideas to make the enclosure unique with the external porting but I mainly need help on getting the internal volume and tuning frequency right. Room is roughly 24x20 with 12' ceilings and hardwood floors. I think I've have plenty of amp to get the output I'm looking for and to maybe add a second 15" later on.

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post #6 of 17 Old 12-04-2012, 11:18 PM
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"the output I'm looking for was 8 cubic ft tuned to 18hz with dual 3" ports 24" long."

give that a double check. that configuration tunes the cab to roughly 12hz.

dual 4" ports at 24" look like a good option for tuning and air speed.

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post #7 of 17 Old 12-04-2012, 11:25 PM - Thread Starter
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I may have made an error somewhere in WinISD. So I'm good on the cab volume at 8 cubes with the suggested ports?

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post #8 of 17 Old 12-04-2012, 11:30 PM
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Note that port air velocity reaches highway speed, and to minimize loss of port output and noise the port is ideally straight (the one in your 1st sketch with sharp elbows would be bad) and will have the edges rounded, or better yet use the availble port flares.

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post #9 of 17 Old 12-04-2012, 11:34 PM
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yeah...two 4" diameter round ports that are 24" long in an 8 cubic foot net enclosure tune it to 17.8hz.

a highpass filter would be a good idea to prevent overexcursion below tuning if you are going for max spl in the low end.

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post #10 of 17 Old 12-04-2012, 11:36 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by noah katz View Post

Note that port air velocity reaches highway speed, and to minimize loss of port output and noise the port is ideally straight (the one in your 1st sketch with sharp elbows would be bad) and will have the edges rounded, or better yet use the availble port flares.

Yea I have scrapped that idea completly. It's going to be a rectangular downfiring box with external ports with only one 90 per port or thats the current plan.

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post #11 of 17 Old 12-04-2012, 11:38 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post

yeah...two 4" diameter round ports that are 24" long in an 8 cubic foot net enclosure tune it to 17.8hz.
a highpass filter would be a good idea to prevent overexcursion below tuning if you are going for max spl in the low end.

Thanks for the feedback. I did have plans to included a filter, I'm still getting all my materials together before I begin the build. Any suggestions on the filter?

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post #12 of 17 Old 12-22-2012, 01:51 AM - Thread Starter
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I've been looking around for a high pass filter to use to protect my sub. I found 2 options that were inexpensive: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_23567_Hifonics-BXiPRO1.0.html and http://www.audiocontrol.com/t34/5249/14165/Special-Processors/The-Epicenter-Bass-Restoration-Processor.html. I know they are for car audio but they have a adjustable subsonic filter plus the ability to bump up the line level voltage. I've read in my research where my Denon's sub outputs voltage might not be high to supply proper signal to my Crown amp. Any thoughts on this?

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post #13 of 17 Old 12-22-2012, 04:09 AM
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behringer mic2200 or for a more full featured product, there is the mini-dsp.

not sure about these fmods: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=266-246

is anybody using the fmods successfully?

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post #14 of 17 Old 12-22-2012, 04:52 AM
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Is that Behringer MIC2200 just a mic, or does it operate as a system, like the Dayton Omni-Mic?
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post #15 of 17 Old 12-22-2012, 05:10 AM
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not a system.

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post #16 of 17 Old 12-22-2012, 04:02 PM - Thread Starter
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I had looked at the minidsp before but now I cant get their website to come up. Is anyone else having trouble with it? I have read about the fmods before and thought about using them. I thought the two examples I listed would work well since the output voltage was adjustable. Looks like its either the minidsp or the fmods now. Thanks for the help! Everyone here has been very helpful. When I get in from offshore I'm going to start my sub build. Due to the space the sub cab will be going in, the porting will have to be internal. The sub will be downfiring 4" from the floor, should the ports face the same direction as the sub or exit toward a wall?

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post #17 of 17 Old 12-23-2012, 11:56 AM
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They can face any direction you want. Just leave a port diameter distance between the exit and a boundary.
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