Yet Another SEOS/TD12M Build - Page 2 - AVS Forum
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post #31 of 50 Old 07-16-2014, 08:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smokarz View Post
I had WinISD before, but uninstalled it since I haven't use it for a while. I will download it and give it another crack.

What should I be looking for in a sealed design?
Q of .5 to .7 to start. Watch xmax to make sure it's not exceeded at your desired SPL within the bandwidth used.

Mike
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post #32 of 50 Old 07-16-2014, 09:54 AM - Thread Starter
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Thanks Face, how do I see xmaxx on winisd?
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post #33 of 50 Old 07-16-2014, 03:41 PM - Thread Starter
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Here are three sample boxes in WinISD.

0.75cf sealed
1.0 cf sealed
1.5 cf ported tuned 60hz

Which of these do you think is the best fit to cross over to my 4 sealed 15" subs? Thanks
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post #34 of 50 Old 07-16-2014, 04:13 PM
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1 cu sealed unless you can tune the 1.5 cu lower and get it down around 50hz. Then I might go that way if I were you.
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post #35 of 50 Old 07-16-2014, 04:45 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks Tux. Just so I can learn. Why 1cf over the .75cf?

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post #36 of 50 Old 07-16-2014, 04:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tuxedocivic View Post
1 cu sealed unless you can tune the 1.5 cu lower and get it down around 50hz. Then I might go that way if I were you.
Why do you not like 1.5 tuned to 58ish?

That's the test box I built. I measured it in the living room and with the mic about 18" away, it was fairly flat until under 50hz. I however don't know if the way I was measuring means much. I was just horsing around since I cant measure outside at this house.
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post #37 of 50 Old 07-16-2014, 05:28 PM - Thread Starter
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I have subs that will handle under 100hz so I don't really need to push the mains.

Also, I would like to not deal with phase or polarity issues when crossing with the subs. I guess I am just lazy and looking for the easy way out.



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post #38 of 50 Old 07-16-2014, 07:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnDean View Post
Why do you not like 1.5 tuned to 58ish?

That's the test box I built. I measured it in the living room and with the mic about 18" away, it was fairly flat until under 50hz. I however don't know if the way I was measuring means much. I was just horsing around since I cant measure outside at this house.
Its fine. But like Smokarz mentioned, he seemed to want a simplified build and to avoid port tuning phase issues. Even though they're quite minimal IMO.
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post #39 of 50 Old 07-16-2014, 08:00 PM
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Somehow I missed that post. I'm with ya now.
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post #40 of 50 Old 07-16-2014, 08:20 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tuxedocivic View Post
Its fine. But like Smokarz mentioned, he seemed to want a simplified build and to avoid port tuning phase issues. Even though they're quite minimal IMO.

Thanks Tux.

I am just an amateur that just happens to like audio and video. I lack the deep knowledge and skill sets that many of you around here possess, so I am looking for something simple and straight forward. But I still like good sound.
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post #41 of 50 Old 07-20-2014, 12:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Martycool007 View Post
If crossing over at 80hz, then I see no reason NOT to do a sealed enclosure...
Sealed TD12M gives F3 115 HZ IIRC.

Not an issue if you have EQ control, but something like Audyssey will force a high XO freq.

Noah
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post #42 of 50 Old 07-26-2014, 10:44 AM - Thread Starter
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After giving this a bit more thought. I am pretty sure I am going with ported cabinet, but with port tubes.

I know that my box size would be around 1.25 to 1.5 cf and tuned somewhere around 45-50hz for an f3 ~80hz.

Questions:

1) How many ports would I need?

2) What port size to use?

Going with this 2" port tube x3, I have the following charts in WinISD.

http://www.parts-express.com/speaker...table--260-387

GREEN is 1.25c tuned to 50hz

ORANGE is 1.5cf tuned to 50hz?

Which is preferred?

Edit: Btw, what's "Vent Mach" in WinISD?
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post #43 of 50 Old 07-26-2014, 06:32 PM
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I was hoping you would go sealed so I could see it measured. You had me thinking about switching mine to sealed so I would have room to add a 12" sub to the bottom of the cab in case I felt like running them full range. I was thinking of the TD12h or even the LAB 12 since it works well in a small sealed . Anyways, I think mine is a 8 1/4" long and 4" diameter port tuned to 45hz with 1.5 cubes. I'm not sure my ears can tell the difference between the 60 and 80 hz XO at the AVR with these.
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post #44 of 50 Old 07-27-2014, 11:13 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by d_c View Post
I was hoping you would go sealed so I could see it measured. You had me thinking about switching mine to sealed so I would have room to add a 12" sub to the bottom of the cab in case I felt like running them full range. I was thinking of the TD12h or even the LAB 12 since it works well in a small sealed . Anyways, I think mine is a 8 1/4" long and 4" diameter port tuned to 45hz with 1.5 cubes. I'm not sure my ears can tell the difference between the 60 and 80 hz XO at the AVR with these.




d_c,

i saw your build, looks great. really like that rounded port.

did you not like your ported build? or you just want to try out sealed? anything you were looking for specifically from a sealed box?

Last edited by smokarz; 07-27-2014 at 11:43 AM.
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post #45 of 50 Old 07-27-2014, 01:10 PM
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Thanks Smokarz. It's really easy to do and cheap. I bought the 4" black PVC pipe from Lowe's, cut a 4.25" hole in the double baffle with the Jasper jig and my router, glued it in with some Gorilla Glue (which expands to fill in any gap), then used a big 45 degree chamfer bit on a few passes for the bevel.

It's hard to explain what I'm looking for but I'll try: I love the sound as is and my system runs almost flat even before eq, but I would like to capture a bit more warmth from music that I'm not getting from the Gjallarhorns with the mains. The SDX15 subs that I had before were so musical - perfect in my opinion, at least for me, so I'll see if I can blend them in. I actually just now bought another SDX15 from a guy on HTS, so I will try one in each of the L and R. I prefer how the SDX15 sound sealed and there is only room for sealed in these cabs as long as the TD12m is sealed. The LCR will all be sealed with my new idea, only the center will not have a sub in it. If it doesn't work out, no biggie, I'll stay with the 45hz ported design. I like building speakers till I'm blue in the face.

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post #46 of 50 Old 07-27-2014, 06:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by d_c View Post
Thanks Smokarz. It's really easy to do and cheap. I bought the 4" black PVC pipe from Lowe's, cut a 4.25" hole in the double baffle with the Jasper jig and my router, glued it in with some Gorilla Glue (which expands to fill in any gap), then used a big 45 degree chamfer bit on a few passes for the bevel.

It's hard to explain what I'm looking for but I'll try: I love the sound as is and my system runs almost flat even before eq, but I would like to capture a bit more warmth from music that I'm not getting from the Gjallarhorns with the mains. The SDX15 subs that I had before were so musical - perfect in my opinion, at least for me, so I'll see if I can blend them in. I actually just now bought another SDX15 from a guy on HTS, so I will try one in each of the L and R. I prefer how the SDX15 sound sealed and there is only room for sealed in these cabs as long as the TD12m is sealed. The LCR will all be sealed with my new idea, only the center will not have a sub in it. If it doesn't work out, no biggie, I'll stay with the 45hz ported design. I like building speakers till I'm blue in the face.
Can the TD12M and the TD12H share the same airspace? I would like to do a Dayton HF15 in the sides of my new build just to add some weight to the front sound stage, although, using a JBL-2226 as the woofer in this design so perhaps adding an HF15 wouldn't net me much over what I could get with the 2226. Plus, my three mains will be active , each powered by an iNuke1000dsp so it would probably be way to complex trying to figure out how to actively cross and add a sealed HF15 into the sides when my DSP amps are only 2-channel.
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post #47 of 50 Old 07-28-2014, 01:54 PM
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No.

You should start your own thread on your upcoming rig as it sounds like you may need some direction.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Martycool007 View Post
Can the TD12M and the TD12H share the same airspace? I would like to do a Dayton HF15 in the sides of my new build just to add some weight to the front sound stage, although, using a JBL-2226 as the woofer in this design so perhaps adding an HF15 wouldn't net me much over what I could get with the 2226. Plus, my three mains will be active , each powered by an iNuke1000dsp so it would probably be way to complex trying to figure out how to actively cross and add a sealed HF15 into the sides when my DSP amps are only 2-channel.

Mike
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post #48 of 50 Old 07-30-2014, 10:09 AM
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Bump for an update
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post #49 of 50 Old 07-30-2014, 04:48 PM - Thread Starter
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Bump for an update

Sorry bud, no update soon.

As I was about to secured a table saw and a brother in law to help. He took on new projects that kept him bust for a few weeks. Next week, I am taking the family to Disney for a week. So, As it looks now. I won't be cutting woods until at least mid August.

But again, I have been sitting on this project for nearly 2 years now. Another month or so Doran't seem too bad



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post #50 of 50 Old 07-30-2014, 05:48 PM
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Sorry bud, no update soon.

As I was about to secured a table saw and a brother in law to help. He took on new projects that kept him bust for a few weeks. Next week, I am taking the family to Disney for a week. So, As it looks now. I won't be cutting woods until at least mid August.

But again, I have been sitting on this project for nearly 2 years now. Another month or so Doran't seem too bad



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I know how that goes. I seem to be in the same boat. I think I may have got my td12m's around the same time as you.
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