Dayton RSS460HO Reference 18" subwoofer sealed BUILD THREAD - AVS Forum
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post #1 of 75 Old 11-15-2012, 07:45 PM - Thread Starter
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I've done some various little DIY projects, but this will be my first audio subwoofer enclosure build. After doing some research on here the Dayton 18" HO sub was my choice, which will be driven by a Dayton 1000 watt plate amp. The box will be 3.85 cubic feet without driver displacement and bracing.


Day 1:
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post #2 of 75 Old 11-15-2012, 10:54 PM - Thread Starter
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I've just a few panels left to cut. What sealant is recommended for the inside seams? White silicone?
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post #3 of 75 Old 11-16-2012, 01:27 AM
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that should be fine. a lot of folks use pl premium, which is an expanding adhesive that fills in imperfections/air gaps, but your cuts look...tight.

did you get the amp with eq on it? sealed subs tend to need some boost on the very bottom end.

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post #4 of 75 Old 11-16-2012, 03:49 AM
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Is that a festool plunge saw? Jealous!!

Nice work so far, you and I are doing similar builds. smile.gif looking forward to reading your progress!

X2 on PL premium - I'm on my third tube on this build now. Man, it is messy but it sure does bond like nothing else.

Andrew


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post #5 of 75 Old 11-16-2012, 04:18 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post

that should be fine. a lot of folks use pl premium, which is an expanding adhesive that fills in imperfections/air gaps, but your cuts look...tight.
did you get the amp with eq on it? sealed subs tend to need some boost on the very bottom end.

The amp has EQ. I remembered your advice from my other thread and got the biggest plate amp PE had with parametric EQ. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=300-809 I don't have the same confidence about the cuts as you. They should be satisfactory with the tools I'm working with.
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post #6 of 75 Old 11-16-2012, 04:26 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gorilla83 View Post

Is that a festool plunge saw? Jealous!!
Nice work so far, you and I are doing similar builds. smile.gif looking forward to reading your progress!
X2 on PL premium - I'm on my third tube on this build now. Man, it is messy but it sure does bond like nothing else.
Andrew

Is this what you guys are talking about? http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/pl_ca_prem/overview/Loctite-PL-Premium-Polyurethane-Construction-Adhesive.htm

I will definitely pick that up. What's a good technique to apply it? Thanks for the messy warning!

It's not Festool, but I know what you're taking about. It's an Eurekazone high quality aluminum track. I regret buying it though, it's a quality tool ( not cheap) but I should've spent a few hundred more and got a decent table saw. I actually do have a table saw that I picked up on Craigslist (70s era craftsman, made in USA) but I can't use it as the new house has no outlets outside/in garage that can handle the initial power surge.
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post #7 of 75 Old 11-16-2012, 04:35 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gorilla83 View Post

Is that a festool plunge saw? Jealous!!
Nice work so far, you and I are doing similar builds. smile.gif looking forward to reading your progress!
X2 on PL premium - I'm on my third tube on this build now. Man, it is messy but it sure does bond like nothing else.
Andrew

Is this what you guys are recommending? Definitely picking this up.
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/pl_ca_prem/overview/Loctite-PL-Premium-Polyurethane-Construction-Adhesive.htm. Thanks for warning me about it being messy, what's a good technique in applying it?

It's not a Festool, but those are nice! It's a quality aluminum track from Eurekazone. Good tool, but its not cheap, that money should've went towards a decent table saw. I do have a table saw, actually (70s era, made in USA Craftsman that I picked up on CL). It is out of commission, however, as none of the usable outlets in/near the garage can handle the initial power surge from the motor.
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post #8 of 75 Old 11-16-2012, 04:36 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gorilla83 View Post

Is that a festool plunge saw? Jealous!!
Nice work so far, you and I are doing similar builds. smile.gif looking forward to reading your progress!
X2 on PL premium - I'm on my third tube on this build now. Man, it is messy but it sure does bond like nothing else.
Andrew

Is this what you guys are recommending? Definitely picking this up.
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/pl_ca_prem/overview/Loctite-PL-Premium-Polyurethane-Construction-Adhesive.htm. Thanks for warning me about it being messy, what's a good technique in applying it?

It's not a Festool, but those are nice! It's a quality aluminum track from Eurekazone. Good tool, but its not cheap, that money should've went towards a decent table saw. I do have a table saw, actually (70s era, made in USA Craftsman that I picked up on CL). It is out of commission, however, as none of the usable garage in/near the garage can handle the initial power surge from the motor.
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post #9 of 75 Old 11-16-2012, 04:51 AM
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Pl premium makes up for the accuracy. It's great stuff. Now what can we do to fix that ...........beer? Lol

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post #10 of 75 Old 11-16-2012, 07:17 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gorilla83 View Post

Is that a festool plunge saw? Jealous!!
Nice work so far, you and I are doing similar builds. smile.gif looking forward to reading your progress!
X2 on PL premium - I'm on my third tube on this build now. Man, it is messy but it sure does bond like nothing else.
Andrew

Is this what you guys are recommending? Definitely picking this up.
http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/pl_ca_prem/overview/Loctite-PL-Premium-Polyurethane-Construction-Adhesive.htm. Thanks for warning me about it being messy, what's a good technique in applying it?

It's not a Festool, but those are nice! It's a quality aluminum track from Eurekazone. Good tool, but its not cheap, that money should've went towards a decent table saw. I do have a table saw, actually (70s era, made in USA Craftsman that I picked up on CL). It is out of commission, however, as none of the usable garage in/near the garage can handle the initial power surge from the motor.
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post #11 of 75 Old 11-16-2012, 11:57 AM - Thread Starter
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Day 2:

Grrrrrr. Bad and good news. I was so eager to get this started that I made an error on my cut list (if I can even call it that). Not all sides are symmetrical, gah, I'm an idiot! I'm giving up for today (I work 3rd shift and it's really late for me). Upon dry assembly it obviously didn't "line up". This build will be delayed.. I need to truncate some panels and cut a new bigger one(s) out. And to think I enjoyed geometry in high school...

If anyone can help me out in salvaging this I will be very grateful. I have 3 21"x21" and 4 21"x19" panels. I realize that the proper assembly will also change the box volume, but not to the extent where it will be unusable.

The good news is that's got my receiver today. However, the vendor sent me the Denon 2113CI model instead of the last year's 2112CI, which I ordered. That works for me!


Poorly-planned cutlist:
cutlist.jpg

Dry assembly.
error.jpg
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post #12 of 75 Old 11-16-2012, 12:03 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gorilla83 View Post

Is that a festool plunge saw? Jealous!!
Nice work so far, you and I are doing similar builds. smile.gif looking forward to reading your progress!
X2 on PL premium - I'm on my third tube on this build now. Man, it is messy but it sure does bond like nothing else.
Andrew

I picked up the Loctite PL. Thans for the recommendation guys. Also thanks for warning me about it being messy, what's a good technique in applying it? I picked up multiple, cheap, plastic putty knives for this.

It's not a Festool, but those are nice! It's a quality aluminum track from Eurekazone. Good tool, but its not cheap, that money should've went towards a decent table saw. I do have a table saw, actually (70s era, made in USA Craftsman that I picked up on CL). It is out of commission, however, as none of the usable garage in/near the garage can handle the initial power surge from the motor.
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post #13 of 75 Old 11-16-2012, 12:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fade to Black View Post

I picked up the Loctite PL. Thans for the recommendation guys. Also thanks for warning me about it being messy, what's a good technique in applying it? I picked up multiple, cheap, plastic putty knives for this.
It's not a Festool, but those are nice! It's a quality aluminum track from Eurekazone. Good tool, but its not cheap, that money should've went towards a decent table saw. I do have a table saw, actually (70s era, made in USA Craftsman that I picked up on CL). It is out of commission, however, as none of the usable garage in/near the garage can handle the initial power surge from the motor.

#1 - WEAR GLOVES. I picked up a pack of 100 from harbor freight for like 5 bucks. I wish I would have done this before the first time using it though, heh. Keep some dry and wet paper towels and/or rags handy. The second time around I was much more prepared and it wasn't nearly as bad. It will squeeze out as you slide the panels together and clamp, just be ready to wipe it up. If you're wearing gloves, you can easily spread/smear it with your fingertips too.

Have fun!

P.S. - I will have to check out the Eurekazone, good stuff.


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post #14 of 75 Old 11-16-2012, 05:06 PM
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I have one of those eurekazone smart tracks and I love it!

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post #15 of 75 Old 11-16-2012, 06:01 PM
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DO NOT SPREAD PL PREMIUM! Apply and let it ooze out, once it hardens you can use a metal putty knife to remove the excess. Also, wear gloves... This adhesive stains your hands for days.



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post #16 of 75 Old 11-16-2012, 07:52 PM - Thread Starter
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You guys are using Loctite PL as the actual glue? I was going to use regular wood glue- Titebond and then use the PL for the corners/seams.
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post #17 of 75 Old 11-16-2012, 07:58 PM
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You can use pl premium as the glue, its what most people use around here. Holds well and expands, fills any little gaps.


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post #18 of 75 Old 11-16-2012, 11:03 PM
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"If anyone can help me out in salvaging this I will be very grateful. I have 3 21"x21" and 4 21"x19" panels. I realize that the proper assembly will also change the box volume, but not to the extent where it will be unusable."

does something like this help at all?

measurements are the dimensions of the panels.

assuming exactly 3/4" material.

if the material is not 3/4", than the top and bottom would be (21" - 2*panel thickness) x 19"


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post #19 of 75 Old 11-17-2012, 01:04 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LTD02 View Post

"If anyone can help me out in salvaging this I will be very grateful. I have 3 21"x21" and 4 21"x19" panels. I realize that the proper assembly will also change the box volume, but not to the extent where it will be unusable."
does something like this help at all?
measurements are the dimensions of the panels.
assuming exactly 3/4" material.
if the material is not 3/4", than the top and bottom would be (21" - 2*panel thickness) x 19"

It is 0.75" thickness MDF. This is more than helpful, you did my homework, thank you. This brings my internal box volume to 4.18 cubes. Should this be ok still after displacement?

I can also make the first layer of the double baffle smaller and push that first panel inside the box (19.5x19.5" panel). This would bring the internal volume to 4.02 cubes.

Is a triple baffle recommended?

What do you think?
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post #20 of 75 Old 11-17-2012, 12:30 PM
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"This brings my internal box volume to 4.18 cubes. Should this be ok still after displacement?"

that's perfectly fine. it would increase excursion by a fraction of a single millimeter under full power.

if you want to do a second baffle...that's fine too whether it is an "inny" or an "outy" :-)

"Is a triple baffle recommended?"

not necessary.

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post #21 of 75 Old 11-17-2012, 01:22 PM - Thread Starter
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Day 3:

Got my Parts-Express goodies. Nice looking sub with an aluminum cone. They're always nice looking when they're ours, aren't they? smile.gif
sub.jpg


I initially assembled and clamped more than what's pictured. I quickly realized that I was running out of clamps quick (can never have enough of those... trained my yard-sale hunting wifey to buy clamps whenever she spots them, and she does smile.gif ) I dis-assembled what I put together and decided to do it right, I knew I would regret it if I rushed through it. Gonna take longer, but I think it will be worth the extra wait.
assembly1a.jpg

Even after heeding Gorilla83's warning about PL I still managed to get this stuff ALL OVER EVERYTHING. I started out using a putty knife, but quickly switched over to using my finger to spread the substance. Luckily the nitrile gloves I had partially mitigated the mess. It wasn't fun... heh, I much prefer wood glue... But experience is golden, I will be more efficient in future build(s) biggrin.gif Also spot LTD02's cutout list, which saved my skin (literally had to make only 2 cuts from what I already had from yesterday's mistake. You've been invaluable, thanks buddy.
assembly1b.jpg
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post #22 of 75 Old 11-17-2012, 02:16 PM
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PL Premium is messy... I learned its best to leave it alone and try not to touch it while sticky. Let it dry and scrape the excess with the putty knife.



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post #23 of 75 Old 11-17-2012, 03:07 PM
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Quote:
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PL Premium is messy... I learned its best to leave it alone and try not to touch it while sticky. Let it dry and scrape the excess with the putty knife.

X2 - However I do spread it on the inside seams of the box with my finger, but with gloves ON! I agree this stuff gets everywhere. As you work with it more often it gets easier to deal with. The second box I built with it was like 60% less messy.

Looking good though! Dayton builds FTW.


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post #24 of 75 Old 11-17-2012, 03:29 PM
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Love the looks of that Dayton driver.

Off topic: am I the only one still using elmers wood glue or titebond?

YID DIY
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post #25 of 75 Old 11-17-2012, 07:20 PM
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"...thanks buddy."

no problem. :-) everyone misses a measurement from time to time. no big deal.

"Off topic: am I the only one still using elmers wood glue or titebond?"

they are just fine if you can make really good cuts. as you probably know, the pl serves to help with any minor mis-cuts that result in small gaps between the panels because it expands as it cures.

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post #26 of 75 Old 11-17-2012, 07:44 PM
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Exactly how much does it expand?
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post #27 of 75 Old 11-17-2012, 08:29 PM
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post #28 of 75 Old 11-19-2012, 10:48 AM - Thread Starter
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Day 4:

Glued another panel; with two remaining. Looking more like a box now. Cure times slow us down!
day4a.jpg

Laminated two panels together for the double baffle.
day4b.jpg

I already had a jig I made a while back, however, for this project its accuracy wasn't gonna cut it. I tested out the Jasper jig I purchased from PE, and made some cuts with it; they turned out to be pretty accurate. The tool is a good investment. Test-fitted the sub in that hole and it dropped right in.
day4c.jpg
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post #29 of 75 Old 11-19-2012, 10:55 AM
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Awesome progress, keep it coming. It's painful waiting for the glue to dry, right??

I love the cinderblock holding the baffles together. I had 2 45 pound olympic plates on mine during assembly a few times, LOL. biggrin.gif


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post #30 of 75 Old 11-19-2012, 10:57 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Awesome progress, keep it coming. It's painful waiting for the glue to dry, right??
I love the cinderblock holding the baffles together. I had 2 45 pound olympic plates on mine during assembly a few times, LOL. biggrin.gif

How is your house surviving your latest furniture addition?
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