Ack's DIY Subwoofer Build Idea Thread - Newbie Alert! - Page 4 - AVS Forum
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post #91 of 203 Old 12-11-2012, 09:27 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ack_bk View Post

Yeah, I was looking into both of those. With the new mics, is this as simply as plugging into your laptop and running REW? Like Omnimic is today? I realize these are not released yet, but if that is the case, I might lean towards getting one of these with REW.

Answered my own question:
http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/spl-meters-mics-calibration-sound-cards/63808-minidsp-umik-1-microphone.html#axzz2EfWaKcIq

Where I am debating is I currently do not have a Windows computer. I had a Windows netbook that had a hard drive crash and have just been running Ubuntu via usb fob, otherwise I am strictly a Mac guy. I have a 4 year old iMac collecting dust right now that would be perfect for the media room and I would love to get REW installed. Just not sure on the connection from the iMac to the receiver... I will need to research if this is possible, and I have seen folks really struggling getting REW running on a Mac, To the point that I might replace the harddrive on my netbook and try to reinstall Windows 7.

Seems like this omni mic is a great deal with REW, so I would really love to get this working..
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post #92 of 203 Old 12-11-2012, 10:11 AM
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I'm using a db meter 'cause I already had it. That goes into a behringer usb sound card and into the laptop & amp. It really doesn't take long to set up after the initial setting of your preferences in REW. Maybe 2 minutes to plug in 2 rca's a usb and set up the tripod. Getting the tripod set up at the LP takes the longest.
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post #93 of 203 Old 12-11-2012, 10:14 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nograveconcern View Post

I'm using a db meter 'cause I already had it. That goes into a behringer usb sound card and into the laptop & amp. It really doesn't take long to set up after the initial setting of your preferences in REW. Maybe 2 minutes to plug in 2 rca's a usb and set up the tripod. Getting the tripod set up at the LP takes the longest.

Well as I go down this road I am sure I will have questions, but that seems straight forward. Thank you again, I don't know what I would do without members like you.

If you would have told me just a few years ago that I would be building my own subwoofers I would have laughed at you smile.gif
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post #94 of 203 Old 12-11-2012, 10:16 AM
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i use a Behringer sound card and REW on my iMac without any issues.

Xbox One Gamertag = The Barbeerian

PS4 PSNID = The-Barbeerian
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post #95 of 203 Old 12-11-2012, 10:27 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brian6751 View Post

i use a Behringer sound card and REW on my iMac without any issues.

This one?:
http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI

Okay, this may be easier than I thought smile.gif

I think the above combined with that minidsp mic would be a potent combo... Might just go ahead and pull the trigger for a little over $100...
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post #96 of 203 Old 12-11-2012, 11:06 AM
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That's the one

Xbox One Gamertag = The Barbeerian

PS4 PSNID = The-Barbeerian
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post #97 of 203 Old 12-11-2012, 12:06 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ack_bk View Post

This one?:
http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI
Okay, this may be easier than I thought smile.gif
I think the above combined with that minidsp mic would be a potent combo... Might just go ahead and pull the trigger for a little over $100...

Actually with the new MiniDsp mic and a Mac, I don't need an external sound card, it is all built into the mic.

Should just be plug and play with REW, although I am still uncertain how to generate test tones, something has to go from the laptop to the amp?
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post #98 of 203 Old 12-11-2012, 12:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ack_bk View Post

Actually with the new MiniDsp mic and a Mac, I don't need an external sound card, it is all built into the mic.
Should just be plug and play with REW, although I am still uncertain how to generate test tones, something has to go from the laptop to the amp?

you would use somthing like this

http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10218&cs_id=1021817&p_id=9301&seq=1&format=2

Xbox One Gamertag = The Barbeerian

PS4 PSNID = The-Barbeerian
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post #99 of 203 Old 12-11-2012, 12:14 PM
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Quote:

test tones are generated in REW

Xbox One Gamertag = The Barbeerian

PS4 PSNID = The-Barbeerian
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post #100 of 203 Old 12-11-2012, 01:22 PM - Thread Starter
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I think I am going to pull the trigger on the Minidsp mic as soon as a few more reviews are in. The one thing (aside from cost) of the Omnimic system was the lack of Mac/Linux support. I don't have Windows, so for me it would be a hassle.
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post #101 of 203 Old 12-11-2012, 01:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ack_bk View Post

I think I am going to pull the trigger on the Minidsp mic as soon as a few more reviews are in. The one thing (aside from cost) of the Omnimic system was the lack of Mac/Linux support. I don't have Windows, so for me it would be a hassle.

same thing for me. i do not want to have to put Windows on my mac.

Xbox One Gamertag = The Barbeerian

PS4 PSNID = The-Barbeerian
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post #102 of 203 Old 12-14-2012, 07:31 PM - Thread Starter
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We have wood! For the subwoofers that is. I broke down and bought baltic birch as it was on sale locally. I started at Home Depot and their birch looked horrible. Voids, splintered, a real mess. Menards had it for considerably less and the boards looked much better. As part of buttering up the wife for letting me add four subwoofers to the mix, I am also building lockers for my wife in the mud room at the same time.

Alas, I would have had everything cut today but I spent about 3 hours trying to find my fence guide for my table saw.. No dice... I had a router, nice level, and mitre saw go missing after we moved halfway across the country and I fear the fence guide may have been kidnapped with the other tools (gotta love moving companies who charge an arm and a leg and still take your things).

Bosch plunge/fixed router is on the way from Big River..

So time to make a ghetto fabulous fence guide (I am thinking with a level and some clamps). Hoping the weather allows, we are expecting sleet/snow wintry mix tomorrow... Ugh..

I have about 12 days off coming up, so I should be able to build the subs and complete the lockers. I had to move the Dayton woofers and iNuke sub out of my sight because I was getting too ansy..

Stay tuned...
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post #103 of 203 Old 12-18-2012, 07:19 PM - Thread Starter
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Duratex roller grade black ordered... I am going for more of a smooth look vs textured so I will be applying with a smooth foam roller. Not going to prime, and I am hoping two coats will do the trick. I am going to have to do this in a spare bedroom in our basement and will be pulling out the space heaters so it will dry/cure quicker (since it is about 5 degrees outside).

Will be cutting on Friday. This arrived today:



Excited to try out my Jasper jig too, I have never used one... This is a nice break from my information security job...
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post #104 of 203 Old 12-18-2012, 08:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ack_bk View Post

Duratex roller grade black ordered... I am going for more of a smooth look vs textured so I will be applying with a smooth foam roller.

I found Duratex gives the smoothest look if it's laid on thick and heavy and rolled out evenly, but then it should be left alone to cure.
Avoid re-rolling over the same area later on if the roller is low on paint because that tends to give it a sandpaper type texture, which actually looks very good, but it's definitely not as smooth.
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post #105 of 203 Old 12-19-2012, 05:51 AM
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Quote:
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Duratex roller grade black ordered... I am going for more of a smooth look vs textured so I will be applying with a smooth foam roller. Not going to prime, and I am hoping two coats will do the trick. I am going to have to do this in a spare bedroom in our basement and will be pulling out the space heaters so it will dry/cure quicker (since it is about 5 degrees outside).
Will be cutting on Friday.

That's going to stink. I've always applied it in a ventilated area. Maybe keep a window open with a fan or something.

Also it takes me 3 coats to get a good covering. 2 ends up a little thin. It only takes about 30-40 minutes between coats though. On my large cab I started at one end and by the time I got to the other end of the box the area where I started was ready for a second coat. I just rolled duratex for 3 hours straight until it was done. biggrin.gif
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post #106 of 203 Old 12-19-2012, 06:29 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by stereo2.0 View Post

I found Duratex gives the smoothest look if it's laid on thick and heavy and rolled out evenly, but then it should be left alone to cure.
Avoid re-rolling over the same area later on if the roller is low on paint because that tends to give it a sandpaper type texture, which actually looks very good, but it's definitely not as smooth.

Thanks for the tip, I will keep that in mind.
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post #107 of 203 Old 12-19-2012, 06:36 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by nograveconcern View Post

That's going to stink. I've always applied it in a ventilated area. Maybe keep a window open with a fan or something.
Also it takes me 3 coats to get a good covering. 2 ends up a little thin. It only takes about 30-40 minutes between coats though. On my large cab I started at one end and by the time I got to the other end of the box the area where I started was ready for a second coat. I just rolled duratex for 3 hours straight until it was done. biggrin.gif

Yeah, living in Minnesota in the winter has its drawbacks. But Duratex is not going to do well in sub zero temperatures so I have to do it in doors.

I will watch for 2 vs 3 coats, I don't mind another coat. Also, I know drying time is a couple of hours and curing time is about a week or so, but can I use the subs while they cure?
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post #108 of 203 Old 12-19-2012, 07:07 AM
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Yes, absolutely.
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post #109 of 203 Old 12-19-2012, 07:15 AM - Thread Starter
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Yes, absolutely.

Thank you, I was starting to get nervous smile.gif
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post #110 of 203 Old 12-19-2012, 07:15 PM - Thread Starter
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One more question (yeah right). I am planning on clamping and glueing using Titebond. Is it easiest to:
glue the bottom, sides, ends (front and back) along with the bracing first, then glue the additional front baffle and top last?

Also, can I just use a bead of Titebond on all the inside seams to make sure everything is sealed well, or is this step even necessary? My experience with Titebond is that the glue is stronger than the wood and there is a very good seal, but I know with subwoofers you don't want any air leakage.
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post #111 of 203 Old 12-20-2012, 06:24 AM
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I start by making a corner out of 3 panels and go from there. Typically I add the double baffle last. It all depends on your design though.

If you use titebond instead of an expanding glue you should be liberal with it. all seams should have glue squeeze-out once screwed/nailed/clamped. Then wipe clean with a damp cloth. I would typically go back with a glue+sawdust mixture or silicon to seal the inside edges. None of that is necessary if you use PL premium because it expands.
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post #112 of 203 Old 12-20-2012, 07:00 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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I start by making a corner out of 3 panels and go from there. Typically I add the double baffle last. It all depends on your design though.

That makes sense.
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If you use titebond instead of an expanding glue you should be liberal with it. all seams should have glue squeeze-out once screwed/nailed/clamped. Then wipe clean with a damp cloth. I would typically go back with a glue+sawdust mixture or silicon to seal the inside edges. None of that is necessary if you use PL premium because it expands.

I have used PL Premium before with good success on other construction projects but I remember it being very messy... That said, the expansion benefit makes it worth a little extra mess IMHO so I will pick some up. For a sealed sub, I don't want to risk having any air leaks and PL Premium seems like added protection.

Tomorrow is S-Day (saw day).. Trying to get all my ducks in a row before I start. I hope to get everything cut tomorrow so I can start gluing. Duratex is supposed to arrive Monday (12/24) but we have a big Midwest storm coming so it may slow down deliveries. My goal is to have everything cut and glued by EOD 12/27. That leaves me a couple of days for rounding, sanding, etc. Hope to have all subs completed by New Years Day....

I know I am going to have lots of questions on wiring for the iNuke...
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post #113 of 203 Old 12-20-2012, 02:57 PM
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Good luck.

The new pl isn't as messy as the old.

Hopefully you have already ordered a pair of 2 prong speakon connectors and an rca to xlr adapter. It's up to you if you want to bridge the amp into 4 speakers or run them off the two channels using "biamp".
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post #114 of 203 Old 12-21-2012, 11:55 AM - Thread Starter
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Well, there were two boxes in my garage that were hard to get to, but I was bound and determine.. Guide fence found! Eating lunch now and I underestimated the wood, but this is going smooth. Will have all four subs cut by the end of the day and should have time to start routing....


Some action shots!



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post #115 of 203 Old 12-21-2012, 11:57 AM - Thread Starter
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Oh, and yes there is MDF mixed in there with Baltic Birch. Since I am doubling up on the baffle wall, I thought it would be cheaper to use MDF on the inner baffle since you won't see it, and BB for the front baffle.
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post #116 of 203 Old 12-22-2012, 06:22 AM - Thread Starter
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The wood for all four subs has been cut. So glad I put a new 60 tooth blade in the table saw, it cut through everything like butter, especially MDF. I picked up a couple of tubes of PL Premium to ensure I get a good seal. I probably would have had some holes cut late yesterday but I was not familiar with the Jasper jig and needed to read up so I knew what I was doing, and then there was an issue with my 1/2 collet on my new Bosch router that I had to resolve (it was stuck). Thanks to living in Minnesota and Winter Solstice, it was pretty much getting dark by 4:30 yesterday so I ran out of daylight.

I should have all the holes cut today and I need to make braces. I would love to start glueing today, but I am going to be really busy with kids, wife and Christmas plans over the next 3+ days... I do think I can have everything done by New Year's...

I also got a Darbee Darblet and it has cut into my time since I have been playing with that quite a bit.. Pretty impressive little device...
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post #117 of 203 Old 12-23-2012, 11:53 AM
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Take your time with the boxes. Patience pays off. cool.gif
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post #118 of 203 Old 12-23-2012, 10:20 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Take your time with the boxes. Patience pays off. cool.gif

Yeah... Life got in the way with three small kids and parties... Wood is still ready for the Jasper, and I don't see it happening until Wednesday....
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post #119 of 203 Old 12-27-2012, 05:56 AM - Thread Starter
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Was able to cut all the baffles.. I have to say, I love the Jasper Jig... Thing is easy as cake, and the Bosch router is so much better than the cheap one it replaced. I also cut all the braces yesterday as well. That said, it was about 10 degrees outside when I was doing all this work, but at least the sun was out. I will post some pictures shortly. I have some family stuff going on today but hope to start assembling boxes today and tomorrow..

I am still not sure the best way to wire all this up, nograveconcern, which would you recommend bi-amp or bridging? If I bridge, does that mean all speakers are wired in parallel off one channel in bridged mode for a 2 ohm load?

The wiring is my biggest weak spot in all of this....

Are you saying something like this:



Or do I want something like this:

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post #120 of 203 Old 12-27-2012, 10:49 AM
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You can wire the dvc's in parallel (4 ohm speaker) and then wire the 4 speakers in series/parallel (two pairs of speakers wired in series and then the pairs are wired to each other in parallel) and end up with a 4 ohm load. Bridge the amp for this.

or

You can wire the dvc's coils in series (16 ohm speaker) and then wire the 4 speakers in parallel for a 4 ohm load to the bridged amplifer.

or

You can wire the dvc's coils in parallel (4 ohm speaker) and wire up 2 pairs of speakers in parallel (2 x 2ohm pairs) and run each pair off one channel of the amp in "biamp".

Clear? biggrin.gif Pick one. They are all equivalent.

The crutchfield diagram above is wrong. That's 4ohm/coil you have 8ohm/coil. The bottom diagram is the 3rd configuration I listed, though it would be hard to wire like the drawing with 4 separate boxes. You want to wire the speakers in parallel w/ 2 jumpers and then you can wire one box to another in parallel an then each pair to a tap on the amp.
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