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post #1 of 10 Old 12-02-2012, 12:22 AM - Thread Starter
 
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you want a listening room that will lift a nerf ball and hold it up in the air.
i say you should want it, but the audio content doesnt support it much because content is trimmed to level 1

the idea is to build a listening room in a basement strong enough to hold 0.75 - 400 lbs of pressure from the speaker cones.

get your plans ready for when the video has content about a door closing.

you are going to build walls for speaker boxes.
you are going to build a ceiling strong enough to hold the pressure down using it's own gravity.

what you do is lay down a tarp and build a frame for some concrete to be poured.
you are going to pour a gelatin roof and lift it up into the air.
to lift it up into the air, you need to cut a hole in the roof of the basement and get yourself a pulley system.
the system needs to be connected to rods that stretch across multiple floor joists to support the weight being lifted.
(be careful you dont sink or sag the caged frame of the building to the point of cracks or snaps)

you could pay any local mason $50 - $100 to tell you when your mixture is right from wrong.
and for $100 the person might even tell you where to get better sand for the mixture.

once you lift that slab up into the air, you get some jacks to hold it and build the walls under it.
2x6 laid flat and stacked from the front of the speaker box to the rear of it will certainly hold the cement with 50-100 years of worry-free functionality (maybe more).

leave some room on the side next to a real wall of the basement.
you are going to need a hallway you can squeeze into to get back behind the cube you built into the basement.

once the cement is up and the speaker boxes are built.. you need a custom glass blower to get in there and melt you a glass wall and smooth it out before it is dry and hard.

then you find yourself a painter that mixes their own paint to make you some soup to spray the back of the glass with because it is going to be your projection screen.
(yes, your glass needs to be thick enough to hold 500lbs of pressure and be perfectly see-through without bubbles or ripples in the vision)

the projector sits on a table behind the glass.
throw the speakers in their holes.
get the microphone and computer out to calibrate the air in the room.
most people dont use furniture of any kind (lights included) in the room.. they just stand or sit on the floor.
the computer software isnt advanced enough to cut out a piece of furniture?
it takes more than one computer to line up all the corrections .. until you find somebody that will decimate the operating system's priority to the motherboard chipset to lay down processes onto the CPU core like a custom cake in the oven.

more advanced rooms will have an angled floor for stadium-style seating.
that means chiseling down into the basement floor.. digging into the dirt .. and laying down tar in the hole to keep it water-tight.

the painter should be there with you working with the calibration disc to get all three primary colors equal, plus equal with the brightness and contrast.
that must be done before the person is allowed to leave.
and cleaning the paint off the glass has to be a team effort with the glass blower to keep the glass safe from becoming weak (like a plant drinking bleach in the soil).

when you are done.. you would have quadrophonic sound that could work fantastically if all 360 degrees of phase was given to us for use in the audio content.
you could get 7.1 or 7.2 in there if the center speaker was installed in the ceiling.
there is a sweet spot toward the center of the room.. but at least the screen goes from wall to wall.
hell.. it is a choice worth crying about if the screen goes from the floor to the ceiling.
(but it looks like hell if the glass doesnt go from the floor to the ceiling, and sometimes it gets shoved in and out if it is sitting in the wall like an aquarium)
wont tip.. plus heavy so it wont move.

some people chisel into the basement floor and beat at the ground with a compressor to get all that weight to sit there steady for a while.. because they can pour new concrete with wire in it after they seal up the hole they made with tar.
see.. if your wire is wider than the room, the tar in the hole shouldnt stretch and rip much.
but if it does.. you could always seal it from the top.
because when there is a crack in cement, you can see the crack's other edge and fill up the whole thing to prevent water from getting in there and swelling up the crack more.

the wire in the concrete is like a constant reminder to stay in place without bending a single millimeter.
no bending = no cracks


you should do the walls with a layer of concrete too.
that means building a frame for the gelatin again.
to leave a hole for the speaker, you cut out the hole and the piece of wood that falls out is the piece you use to tell the cement where you need a hole.
(the back of the frame touches the circle.. the front of the frame touches the other side of the circle.. it gets sandwhiched in there and you punch it out later after you take the gelatin's frame away)
if you keep the back of the wood.. it could rattle.
if you mount the speaker to the cement layer, it needs to be able to handle 500lbs of pressure.
a thin layer of wood to hold the gelatin isnt going to hold 500lbs of pressure.
probably two 2x6's layed together would hold the 500lbs .. but would flex.
to make the flex go away.. 4-5-6 of those 2x6's stacked will do it.
just drill out the hole and slide a bolt through with washers and nuts.

that way the edge of the cement lines up with the edge of the speaker, and any small differences can be filled in with goofy things like nail filler.

get this room done and when the door in the other room closes on video, you can feel it through the speakers.
you can get your decay time down low enough to hear the audio lay across the top of the table bouncing off of the objects on the table.

maybe secret service stops by to watch some video footage in the room to get a final judgement on something.
if you love yourself enough to build it.. somebody else is going to love the room jst as much as you do, perhaps in a different location.

as far as calibrating the room, you really shouldnt need a doorway with a door that closes.
there is no reason for the doorway to exhibit 400 lbs of pressure moving in and out .. room calibration is sophisticated enough to grab a person up off the ground without a door.
(perfect can exist)

A+ for purist effort here .
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post #2 of 10 Old 12-02-2012, 02:06 AM
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Drugs are bad.... mmmmkay?

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post #3 of 10 Old 12-02-2012, 03:23 AM
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Dude, the unit of measure for Pressure is not that of weight , rather the formula is: mass multiplied by acceleration and then divided by the square of the area in contact.

and what the heck are you smokin'? cause I want some.
and what was that about floating balls, gelatin and something about drinking bleach and lay down processes like an easy-bake oven? eek.giftongue.gif
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post #4 of 10 Old 12-02-2012, 06:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by anwaypasible View Post

you want a listening room that will lift a nerf ball and hold it up in the air.
i say you should want it, but the audio content doesnt support it much because content is trimmed to level 1
the idea is to build a listening room in a basement strong enough to hold 0.75 - 400 lbs of pressure from the speaker cones.
get your plans ready for when the video has content about a door closing.
you are going to build walls for speaker boxes.
you are going to build a ceiling strong enough to hold the pressure down using it's own gravity.
what you do is lay down a tarp and build a frame for some concrete to be poured.
you are going to pour a gelatin roof and lift it up into the air.
to lift it up into the air, you need to cut a hole in the roof of the basement and get yourself a pulley system.
the system needs to be connected to rods that stretch across multiple floor joists to support the weight being lifted.
(be careful you dont sink or sag the caged frame of the building to the point of cracks or snaps)
you could pay any local mason $50 - $100 to tell you when your mixture is right from wrong.
and for $100 the person might even tell you where to get better sand for the mixture.
once you lift that slab up into the air, you get some jacks to hold it and build the walls under it.
2x6 laid flat and stacked from the front of the speaker box to the rear of it will certainly hold the cement with 50-100 years of worry-free functionality (maybe more).
leave some room on the side next to a real wall of the basement.
you are going to need a hallway you can squeeze into to get back behind the cube you built into the basement.
once the cement is up and the speaker boxes are built.. you need a custom glass blower to get in there and melt you a glass wall and smooth it out before it is dry and hard.
then you find yourself a painter that mixes their own paint to make you some soup to spray the back of the glass with because it is going to be your projection screen.
(yes, your glass needs to be thick enough to hold 500lbs of pressure and be perfectly see-through without bubbles or ripples in the vision)
the projector sits on a table behind the glass.
throw the speakers in their holes.
get the microphone and computer out to calibrate the air in the room.
most people dont use furniture of any kind (lights included) in the room.. they just stand or sit on the floor.
the computer software isnt advanced enough to cut out a piece of furniture?
it takes more than one computer to line up all the corrections .. until you find somebody that will decimate the operating system's priority to the motherboard chipset to lay down processes onto the CPU core like a custom cake in the oven.
more advanced rooms will have an angled floor for stadium-style seating.
that means chiseling down into the basement floor.. digging into the dirt .. and laying down tar in the hole to keep it water-tight.
the painter should be there with you working with the calibration disc to get all three primary colors equal, plus equal with the brightness and contrast.
that must be done before the person is allowed to leave.
and cleaning the paint off the glass has to be a team effort with the glass blower to keep the glass safe from becoming weak (like a plant drinking bleach in the soil).
when you are done.. you would have quadrophonic sound that could work fantastically if all 360 degrees of phase was given to us for use in the audio content.
you could get 7.1 or 7.2 in there if the center speaker was installed in the ceiling.
there is a sweet spot toward the center of the room.. but at least the screen goes from wall to wall.
hell.. it is a choice worth crying about if the screen goes from the floor to the ceiling.
(but it looks like hell if the glass doesnt go from the floor to the ceiling, and sometimes it gets shoved in and out if it is sitting in the wall like an aquarium)
wont tip.. plus heavy so it wont move.
some people chisel into the basement floor and beat at the ground with a compressor to get all that weight to sit there steady for a while.. because they can pour new concrete with wire in it after they seal up the hole they made with tar.
see.. if your wire is wider than the room, the tar in the hole shouldnt stretch and rip much.
but if it does.. you could always seal it from the top.
because when there is a crack in cement, you can see the crack's other edge and fill up the whole thing to prevent water from getting in there and swelling up the crack more.
the wire in the concrete is like a constant reminder to stay in place without bending a single millimeter.
no bending = no cracks
you should do the walls with a layer of concrete too.
that means building a frame for the gelatin again.
to leave a hole for the speaker, you cut out the hole and the piece of wood that falls out is the piece you use to tell the cement where you need a hole.
(the back of the frame touches the circle.. the front of the frame touches the other side of the circle.. it gets sandwhiched in there and you punch it out later after you take the gelatin's frame away)
if you keep the back of the wood.. it could rattle.
if you mount the speaker to the cement layer, it needs to be able to handle 500lbs of pressure.
a thin layer of wood to hold the gelatin isnt going to hold 500lbs of pressure.
probably two 2x6's layed together would hold the 500lbs .. but would flex.
to make the flex go away.. 4-5-6 of those 2x6's stacked will do it.
just drill out the hole and slide a bolt through with washers and nuts.
that way the edge of the cement lines up with the edge of the speaker, and any small differences can be filled in with goofy things like nail filler.
get this room done and when the door in the other room closes on video, you can feel it through the speakers.
you can get your decay time down low enough to hear the audio lay across the top of the table bouncing off of the objects on the table.
maybe secret service stops by to watch some video footage in the room to get a final judgement on something.
if you love yourself enough to build it.. somebody else is going to love the room jst as much as you do, perhaps in a different location.
as far as calibrating the room, you really shouldnt need a doorway with a door that closes.
there is no reason for the doorway to exhibit 400 lbs of pressure moving in and out .. room calibration is sophisticated enough to grab a person up off the ground without a door.
(perfect can exist)
A+ for purist effort here .

Bill Fitzmaurice Loudspeaker Design

The Laws of Physics aren't swayed by opinion.
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post #5 of 10 Old 12-02-2012, 06:58 AM
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I would use fiberglass instead of gelatine.
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post #6 of 10 Old 12-02-2012, 07:57 AM
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Oh look, a riddle. I've read some of your postings before, your MO is consistent. I'll bite.
What I got from your post Is a simple objective you want to accomplish.
" you want a listening room that will lift a Nerf ball and hold it up in the air."
You then added an idea this should take place In a basement, In fact you added a lot of ideas. Are all these added ideas, design constraints or construction constraints, I need to work within? Also, why does this "listening room" have a projector? or surround set-up? I guess I'm just trying to clarify the goal/exercise here.
The purists In me says, build a huge horn, set yourself up at the opening, place Nurf ball down the horn path, increase voltage to sub until Nurf ball hits you In the head, I'm not sure If this qualifies as "hold It up In the air", I'll let sales swing that.
A+ If you can give me a proper design objective.
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post #7 of 10 Old 12-02-2012, 08:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hindikush 
What I got from your post Is a simple objective you want to accomplish..
I think you probably missed his objective, which is likely to intentionally post gibberish to appease some pathological need for attention.

I say intentionally, because no one can truly be that disabled and still find his way to the internet.

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post #8 of 10 Old 12-02-2012, 09:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigus View Post

I think you probably missed his objective, which is likely to intentionally post gibberish to appease some pathological need for attention.
I think your absolutely correct "post gibberish", however "missed his objective" not so much, lol. It's early, I'm slightly hungover, Anwaypasible Is not the only one that gets to have fun, I call It "poking the bear". wink.gif
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post #9 of 10 Old 12-02-2012, 01:52 PM
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Lol:)

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post #10 of 10 Old 12-24-2012, 03:01 AM - Thread Starter
 
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this could be left unsaid, but i will say it anyways..

when the glass gets put up, it will obviously be sealed because it is easier to calibrate the room without shimmering leaks.. and if the glass seal breaks, you know the walls are moving outwards.
but.. be sure you do something to keep the walls from sliding apart until the cement falls.
that usually means anchoring the walls to the floor and the slab of concrete on top.
you could run a bar at the top and the bottom of the screen if it is painted dull enough to not reflect light .. and then run another bar at the top and the bottom in the entrance way, but it will probably play hell with the calibration.
if you are going to be pouring concrete, you could always chisel out enough of the floor to run the bar in the floor and pour some new concrete on top .. then run the other bar across the top of the entrance way hidden or replacing some wood or behind some wood.


i also forgot to say something about getting the slab of concrete off the floor after it is poured.
the thing is heavy and even though the room might not be much more than 8ft x 10ft with a 7-8ft ceiling .. that slab wont come up with some regular crowbar.
probably the easiest way to do it is lay the straps down first, lay something on top to prevent the straps from sticking, and then use some filler to flatten the area where the strap left an indent.

now i can fall asleep knowing i filled in my missing pieces.

and for you geeks out there, just calibrate the room empty.. and when you get it right, because of the pressure, when you walk in.. your body's shape should be in the doorway, as it is basically the beginning of a black hole.
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